FASHION HINTS FROM PARIS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2318, 4 August 1898, Page 44

FASHION HINTS FROM PARIS.

London, June 10.

Dear Evimelixe, — Another form of neckbow or tin, worn in Paris with shirt blouses or with tailor made costumes, is that of silk, in npearancc like a coar»e cam as. The design is either that of an half-inch square check, or? else it is plaid. Some of the colourings m the former variety, especially in the combination of maize colour and white, and pink and white, are very fascinating and so are many of the light coloured plaid designs. In width the ribbon is decidedly wide rather than narrow, and its ends are fringed through the silk being- frayed. In this kind of tie the bows are not ready made like they arc in tho soft chiffony materials, but have to be lie r l by tho wearer. Tho tie is 1 just long enough lo allow of a neat bow with moderate ends being made.

Very beautiful are many of the fancy fronts intended to be worn with open coats. Silk of various descriptions, or chiffon, or the former veiled with the latter is chiefly used in their construction. Thoae vests are all slightly pouched and are girlish lookiufi

They are trimmed with tucks, with lace, with chiffon puffings, or with all three. There is just now so much rage for black trimmings that many of these coloured silk fronts are veiled with a corresponding net or tulle or chiffon, which is figured with slender embroideries worked in black beads or black applique. As a rule, the black looks extremely well, though perhaps is not quite so pretty as the more fussy varieties of the dainty Parisian vesta all of which button at the back. The collars correspond in trimming with tho front and generally are as soft and becoming as anything that could well be devised. Appliquos of creasn, too, ju % o very fashionable and many of the designs, though simple, aro Dtrikiiigly handsome and effective. There ia another mode .of trimming these

fronts, and entire blouses are often similarly

ornamented — namely, that of a worked design of flowers in coloured silks. One blouse of white glace silk had each side of its front .worked in a slender design of purple violets

•with their attendant foliage worked in green. Down th» middle of tke front there was a

double full falling frill of white chiffon edged

with violet coloured bebe ribbon velvet, and pioca velvet of the same shade was used for the folded collar and the narrow folded belt, There were small pointed cuffs of the same velvet and falling over the bands was a frill

of chiffon corresponding to that down the

front of the blouse. The back was made 1 iv- the "stretched" form. This uncommon - and original blouse was very taking. Another , 0110 ja pink silk w&3 worked in a design of pink carnations and much green foliage, and had

a green velvet collar, belt, and cuffs; but it \ra* not. nearly ao taking as the white and "purple, there being too nrnch green predominating, aud the design vras not so light and '- graceful as that of the violets. In the way of wraps, the jjreat novelty in Paris is a circular capo vrhiofe. reaches to the knees or sometimes below that point, and frightfully ugly it is too. It is generally scan in grey fawn oloth or beige, and invariably has a gorgeous lining of ivory satin, shot sill^, or white brocade. It is neither the cloth nor the silk that is hideous — it is the cut of tho garment. Ifc hangs quite plainly

both back and front from the neck to the

edgo, and is not unlike a clinging shawl. The front, which is rounded off at the edge, is

slightly shorter than the back. And all the v/ay round it is edged with a deep and rather full flounce which is made of the same cloth,

f but w.hiohis not even machine-stitched round I the border — it has no hem. To ring the ■ ohange, an occasional cape has a double frill or I flounce as an edging. Such frights as the ! wearers make themselves in these ugly capes can only be realised when seen. It is much to be hoped that this same pattern will not prevail here throughout the next autumn and winter seasons, although I am assured that by that time they will be the height of fashion. Nothing could nell look more frumpish than this latest Farisian oape, which by the way generally has a high collar of its own material. Quite a large number of people attending the Salon on the afternoon that I was present, were arrayed in this class of cape, which is said to give an astonishing " air of age and dowdines to the short round cape" when placed side by side with this "classic cut garment." However, opinions differ, and it is often well they do ! Another form of wrap is the slightly pouched fronted, short-basqued jacket, which too is made in lovely pale fawn and silver grey cloths. These are most elaborate, the upper half of the body part and also of the sleeves consisting solely of embroidered cloth, tho dosign being edged round will narrow silver, gold or white braid. With these jackets very narrow fancy belts are worn. Some aro much plainer than others, the more elaborate kinds having turned back revers — often of white — a\id full front of dainty white chiffon or silk jabot. A few have tho short basque tabbed. These jackets are usually worn when driving for they are rather too warm for this time of the year to be worn when walking. Nearly all the Parisian parasols — and their variety is very great — are characteristically plain and simple. Some are, of course, one mass of chiffon frills, etc., but these are rather too much for ordinary occasions, and as the weather, so far, has not been so sunny for the time of year as people .on that side of the Channel desire, few of them are to be seen. So it is on parasols of the plainer and more useful descriptions that I want to say a few words. The majority of them are of moire, and in colouring aro white or cream. Slicks are for the most part coloured, and the frames are gold. Handles are varied, but the round knob in different colourings is most usually met with. The newest style of handle id that of white wood tied like a double true lover's knot, and in the aniddle it has a little touch of colour. In place of a bow and ends of ribbon tied round tho stick, the sunshades have a ruffle of white and some coloured ribbon, the latter corresponding in shade with the moire covering or with tho little trimming- on tho latter. Those, then, are the details ; now for the major points. Even in this more useful type of sunshade there are several gradations, the most ornamental of which is an effective and slender but simple design laid on about the middle of cream applique dotted with silver sequins. In white, cream, pale blue, light pink, etc., each alike with the cream applique, these sunshades are most fascinating — dressy 'without bring showy or conspicuous.

Another less elaborate variety in white or coloured moire is bordered all round at the edgo with an insertion of cream guipure. Another kind has its edge cut out in a pointer! embroidery pattern which is worked all round with coloured silk. These, however, are not nearly so nice for they look- rather common and as if one. had bought a pieco of coloured cotton pointed edging and sewn it round the sunshade. Also in moire there was another kind; this had a bordering of some coloured plisse chiffon or gauze. Blue, or pink, or green, or heliotrope, or any other coloured gauze or chiffon forms the border to many of them; and though white moire is principally used with a coloured edging, other combinations aro commonly to be saen. With all those different parasols which I have endeavoured to touch upon the ruffles round fho stick are -orthodox.

Fruit being so much in vogue in Paris for milinery purposes, particularly cherries, ihis has been woven into the cloth of which some sunshades are made. But this is an experiment, and decidedly not good form.— Yours truly,

Ze ixi a.