LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 2258, 10 June 1897, Page 44

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

.London, April 23. Dear Emmbline, — Fearful monstrositiea and absurdities in the way of coalscuttle bonnets still are constantly appearing— not on people's heads, though perhaps that will come, but at present only in the shop windows. It seems to be tha aim of each fresh production as it appears to outdo its prede.oesoor in point of size. One of the latest had simply an enormous frame, which seemed quite out of all proportion with the part intended to fit, on to the head. This time the " coal gcufctle " was made of pale green straw of % very pretty and becoming shade. Inßide, the brim was elaborately pleated with drawn white chiffon, while just at the junction of the crown and brim there was a full ruching of the same chiffon, out of which, rather to the right side, projected a large white ostrich feather!* Large though this feather was, it did not reach to the edge of the brim, so some idea. o£ the depth of the latter may be imagined. As - for the other part of the " coalscuttle," it had round it» crown a deep band of white moire ribbon, tied into a few loops at the laft side, where there were also six white ostrich plumes, varying in Bize. The strings were tremendously long, and of broad moire ribbon. Altogether it was a really wonderful production, and naturally attracted much attention toward the shop, thus constituting a splendid advertisement, though that was not at all a necessity for this well-known and favourite establishment. Another " coalscuttle " elsewhere, of white straw this time, was rather scantily trimmed with a wreath o£ small pink roses round the base of the crown, and a bunch of white ribbon bows looped to one side. It waa lined with white alik

mußlin, and a vrroath of pink roses -was so placed as to rest on the forehead of the wearer. But these two specimens were really past wearing, being of so enormous a sizo. Wearable productions, however, are on fcbe increase. With regard to the more sensible descriptions of millinery, there ia reallj nothing fresh to record. The majority o£ hats and bonnets are as gay as ever, and not a few of them rather more so. Roses still continue to be the most favourite of flowers, and several shades prettily contrasted are often used on tbe same hat. It is perhaps on the large and wide-brimn^ed Leghorn straw shapes that most of the contrasting shades are used. One, for example, had ronnd its crown a twisted band of pale blue ribbon ; the same, in conjunction with some fine cream lace, being used for bows and loops. In ail there were nine large roses intermixed with foliage and buds, and they ranged in colour from deep crimson to pale pink, and with them were two whose colouring was deep cream. While most of the large Leghorn shapes have long ribbon strings, to be tied under the chin, this particular example had not. ' " Diamond Jubilee " gloves are among the latest inventions. It seems to me that long before that auspicious day everyone will be heartily .sick of the whole thiog — not that many are not sick of it already — but they will be " sicker " when the time really does come. Some jubilee toy or other invention is constantly coming ont, but the latest thing that has come under my notice is the "Diamond Jubilee glove," of which as yet there are not many example?, and all of which, so far, are carried oat in exactly the same style. They are made of cream kid, and on the back of the band, near the fingers, are two crowns worked in gold- coloured silk. Instead of the usual points there are the figures 1837 rotming one behind the other down the length of the back of the hand ; then cornea a dividing line of gold silk, and on the other side are the figures 1897 similarly placed. But this is not quite all ; for these " Diamond Jubilee gloves " have four large buttons, on each of which is a portrait of tbe Queen's head, and round each of them are the two words " Queen Victoria." Another paiiv of cream gloves in the same style had its novel design carried out is black silk. It is said that, except for half-mourning, those delicate grey kid gloves which have been so much worn for two seasons have had their day. This may or may not be, for judging from present appearances the tendency still seems to be that light gloves of every shade will be quite aa much favoured this season as heretofore. That it is rather an extravagant fashion is readily acknowledged on ali hands, but it is also universally acknowledged to be a very dressy and becoming one, for it is getting more and more marked that it is rapidly dawning on people how important an item gloves really are to the making or marring of a woman's dress. After all, if cream, lavender, and vrbite may still be considered the height of fashion, why not grey 1 of the new canary yellow kid gloves brought out for this season have "royal purple" points, another compliment introduced in honour of the occaiion. They look *-vrj nice, but on the whole I think that black points are the nicest of all, or else those which are a shade or two darker than tbe kid itself. Evidently coloured kid gloves are again to strive for popularity, and are now being used (only to a limited extent, however) for useful waar. There are many of a deep shade of purple, while others are in several shades of dark blue, and almost every tint of green is obtainable. Ooloured silk sunshades — or, as they are moregeneralty called now, entout cas, being used for either sunshine or rain — are shown in great variety. There are two novel features connected with many of them. First, the majority are made on gilt cr else steel frames, the ferrule and ribs or' course corresponding. Naturally they are of a most slender build, and look extremely neat. These frames do nod in themselves exactly constitute ths novelty, as for some time — all through the winter in fact — many umbrellas -have been made on steel frames ; but then they were neither gilt nor the colour of steel, but were black, and therefore not at all conspicuous. Many people who had silk umbrellas on this kind of frame found that they did not wear at all satisfactorily, the frames soon cutting through the silk. But in any case a pure silk umbrella is not noted for its durability. Another reason of their cutting so easily is doubtless owing to the fact that when not in use for protection either from rain or sunshine, people in London carry their umbrellas tightly furled. This is rather contrary to the custom in New Zealand, where it is almost the exception to see anyone carrying an umbrella or sunshade so fastened.- There is no question as to of the two is the neater style, but if one is obliged to take into consideration the wear of the umbrella, then it is obviously plain which is the better plan to adopt. Ifc is seldom, indeed, that London people venture out minus an umbrella or en tout cas, especially at this season of the year, for it is most uncertain at which moment there may be a shower. Therefore, beiDg ie such constant use, and always furled when only carried — as most people seem to study neatness more than anything else, so far, at any rate, as umbrellas are concerned — it is not surprising that these articles are, as a rule, only short-lived, especially those of silk. Though shopkeepers are obliged to keep everything in stock, they, if the question arises as to which umbrella they recommend for wear — that having a steel frame and stick or thafc of the ordinary kind — unhesitatingly reply in favour of the latter class. There is the second novelty, and that consists in many of the en tout cas havirg coloured handles. These either match tbe silk in shade or else contrast with it. Therefore it is not at all uncommon now to see sticks of scarlet, green, purple, blue, lavender, pink, &c. While as a rule most of these colours match the silk, there is one particular shade of handle which is used with almost anything, and which seema to be very popular, and this shade ia dark green. All the coloured handles are polished, and instead of the usual tassel there is on each en tout cas a bunch of po'r.pome, usually of the same tone as the covering. Some of the handles have at tha top an apple, a pear, a tomato, a duck's

head, two owlo, a rose, or something equally absurd and equally ugly; but the mujority are oharaotfirintically neat, raosu of them having a email round kxiob of some description as aa ornament;. Sorneitaes tbo knob is of mosaic china, but is as a rule something loss showy. It is quite tha exception to meet T?ith a crook handle covr, and slmostas rare are thosse which have a large ring at the top. Some represent a sort of T. Crooks .and rings are far more convenient when one is carrying a large number of parcels, for then the umbrella can just be slipped on the wrist and is quits out of the way, but the small round knobs now in vogue are unquestionably more compact in appearance. For people who, having now put away their fur necklets and boas, feel the wast of some sort o£ finish rouad their necks, thero is much variety in the way of ruffles and necklets. There are a few of feather, and there are others which to all appearance are also made of feather. But in reality those latter are made of coloured mußlin thickly boxpleated and rounded at the edges, and bordering each little scallop there are tiny strands of a curly feather, which is either of the aame or a contrasting shade to the ruffle itself. These look very pretty and Boft when worn, and unless seen in one's hand or closely looked iato, it is impossible to tell that they are not made from feathers. Most kinds, however, are mada of accordeonpleated silk or ohiffon, in black or colours, and elaborately combined with cream lace and narrow satin ribbon. Some are parishable and delicate to a degree.— Yours truly, Zealia.