LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 2251, 22 April 1897, Page 44

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

(WniTTEN Specially for the Otago Witnkkfs.)

J..ONOON, March 5.

Dkats Emmeline. — It is to be hoped that! the fashion of wearing long sleeves to dinner gowns and evening dress generally will remain in vogue for some length of timethroughout this season at all events. Ramonrs are whispered that silk open-work and 1 ice mittens will be reintroduced. But ib is by no means certain as yet whether this revival of another old fashion will be at all 'eagerly welcomed. Gloves have become too popular to be all at once discarded in favour of mittens, for English people are very conservative about moßt things — nob merely confined to the question of dresv. Bat thin is only one reason why little fear is displayed that gloves are to make way for mittens, for these latter, while they do show to full advantage well-shaped and well-cared-for fioger nails and valuable ringe, are generally considered, on ths whole, to be rather unbecoming than otherwise. Besides this, there is again the difficulty that so many people have such highly sensitive ekins that they fiud the wearing of any silken clothing immediately next to the skin most irritating. Then on the other hand it must be borne in mind that mittens are much more eaaily and quickly removed in the case of a dinner party than are gloves. Perhaps in time they will become general, but not all at once, for fashions as a rule ohange very gradually, and the mere fact of anything new being introduced or of any old style being revived does not necessarily make that style popular. If, however, the id6a be taken up by societyleaders — those, of course, who are noted for good taste — mitten*, like everything ©lse, are almost sure to become fashionable. Taking all points into consideration, however, there is almost as much to be said in favour of the revival of mittens as there is against it.

Novelties in the new season's dress materials still continue to be fchowered upon us, and fine silk canvas and grenadine — either plain or broche — are among the latest things in which materials of all shades are obtainable. But these shades do not in themselves constitute the novelty. Here is where that point comes in : Two canvases or grenadines, which have every appearance of being quita distinct and separate from one another*, are in reality woven together, or, to be more exact, they are woven together at the edgea ; and the two are also caught at intervals soaß to prevent dragging. This, of course, reproduces tbe shot effect. One recently Been was a plain black grenadine woven over another of a deep, rich shade of mauve, the latter being slightly broche. The general appearance of these two grenadines conveyed the idea of its being both moke and embroidered. No lining is required in such instances tts the one to which I have ju3t alluded, and ifc also is described as being extremely light in > weight, and for this reason it will doubtless 1 commend itself to many for summer wear. Though ssemingly rather expensive in the firßt instance, it is pointed out that, there being no lining required, it is not in reality any more expensive in the long run. In addition to the moire effects produced by the silks known by that name, this par-

ticular make of silk is now seen brocaded with flowers — varied in size and usually placed at some distance apart; and other moire silks, again, are checked with a contrasting shade. Through those sundry figurtngs the moire effect stands out surprisingly well. Plain rich satins are prominent features, as also are brocaded and figured silks of every make.

Checked materials are now being need for coat and skirt costumes, and most of the checks fortunately have the merit of being very small — in fact, aie quite indiscernible any little distance away. These shepherds' plaids are not merely oonfined in shading to black and white, but are to be had in all colours. A large number of the coat and skirt costumes are made with an Eton jacket or some form of bolero. There are still many of the double-breasted and open-fronted types, and there are a few stray models in which the coats are made in tbe Watteau style, both back and front, and reaoh just as far as the waist. The yoke and part of the jacket are ornamented by rows of small buttons. Small buttons are considered to be newer this year thaa are large ones. Nothing, I think, could be more unbecoming than these Watteau jackatg, and they stand little chance of " taking."

Instead of being a prominent feature, as it usually the case, buttons on sirgla-breaated jackets are sometimes hidden completely from view, being merely fastened into their holes, which are worked on a piece of a cloth sewn just under the front of the coat. . This seems rather a mistake, for on a tight-fitting garment of any description buttons always fojm a relief, and take away auy inclination there may be of stiffness.

Among the woollen materials for sutsmer wear, self colours seem likely to hold tbelr own, more especially for dressy occasions, and foremost among this class of material we find cashmere, either single or double, .the latter variety being known as cashmere clotb. As braiding will be generally adopted, cashmere and also satin-faced cloths are sure to be largely employed for spring costumes, as each of these materials lends itself well eSther for braiding or for embroidering.

The rumour which gained enrrency some few weekg ago that coats and jackets were to bo enlivened by baring their ravers, cuffs, and collar of bright-coloured velvet— notably reds and crimsons —ia now becoming a reality. Ainoßg other costumes there was one of dark blue cloth, whose coat; fastened invisibly down the front. Ab each side, a few incheß from the front, the cloth was slashed up from the lower edge and fastened over a pleating of ciimaon silk, with narrow straps of black silk picot braid, hold dowa with mother of pearl buttons. Tha turn-down collar was faced ■with silk of the same shade, and so were the cuffs. In the same style a drab jacket is described as being facsd with blae velvet, and a tan-coloured bolero was tr.immed with pink velvet, the latter being piped with black. I expect that b»fore long this stjle, which ie juat now in its infancy, will suddenly be received with ©pen arms, so to speak, and remain the style for some time to come.

Accordion-pleated skirts sre gradually being introduced, and it is said with a certain degree of success. This pleating is also termed " sun ray," sinco it widens out from waiafc to hem, " an tho genial beams of King Sol do from their birth until their disappearsince from our ken." A. dress made in this 8tyl« ia thus described: The material was black silk, and the idea waß emphasised by lines of small black ec-quins in graduated locgths down the centre of each pleat, but not continued to the hem— only about halE ■way dowa the skirt. The bodice was of sunset ahot pink silk veiled with black net, the back embroidored in slender lines of jet, the front having cunningly devised revere of jet and steel embroidery. The shaped and folded waistband was of pink ihct silk, and there was a small bow to correspond on the collar.

While in Paris, perfectly plain skirts are said to begin to have a somewhat bare appearance, it is thooght that; it will ba some time yet before much trimmed skirts will be liked, and therefore ifc iB uncertain jnst at the present stags whether fluffy ruchings or flounciDga headed by bands of velvet, lace, or passementerie will or will not be universally liked. But this is an instance where gradual change must be looked for, for after having plain skirts with us for so long, it is quite natural that trimmed skirts wiil not all at once become first favourites. — Youra truly. Zeacla..