LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 2250, 15 April 1897, Page 44

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

(Written Specially for the Otack* Witness.) London, February 26. Dear Emjieline, — This week there has already been a fairly large number of early spring goods shown, alike as regards millinery and dress materials. First I will deal In general all-round terms with millinery, which once more is quite as gay as heretofore, and it seems as though vivid admixtures „ of colours are again to be- considered in good taste by some. But doubtless as the season, advances much toning down will be administered to the number of gorgeously-shaded, hats which usually assert themselves so pronouncedly at the beginning of each spring. Coloured straws are again to the fore, and bright shades of green, purple, and pink are the predominant hues for headgear. These shades are used either alone or in combination with something else, while many of the season's hats are self-coloured there are equally many which are not. Shapes and s)ZB3 too are infinitely varied, but all agree in that the crowns are very high, or else moderately so. Some are extremely narrow, and taper off to a sharp point, there being no fit at all in ths head ot a hat of this class. Ib is now some months since I said that blocks were being prepared for this particular shaped hat. Occasionally the beef-e^ter effect is producsd at the top of a bigh crown — that is to say, there is a ledge as it were of fancy straw projecting beyond the crown itself. Many of the straw shapes are really so elaborate in themselves that comparatively little trimming is necessary. Some of the hats of the most glaring shade* are to a certain extent being toned down by having their crowns veiled with black net which is spangled with gold or diamond jewels. This idea oeitainly adds a subdued look to a vary bright-coloured Btraw bat, and in a large measure lessens the degree of garishness possessed by the hat itself, but at the same time a quieter-toned straw in the fir3t place would be in very much better taste. However, the spangling or jewelling is not in reality vulgar in appearance, as may perhaps be imagined, but doubtless manjs people who select* such a gaudilytinted hat or bonnet that it must necessarily be toned down will prefer to uae either plain or spotted black net for this purpose. Trimmings so far as a rule consist largely, and ia many instances solely, of flowers. Lace and ribbons are also plentifully used. It is really becoming more and more difficult each season to discern between artificial and real flowers. There are many varieties being uaed at the present time, among them being roses, primulas, lilac, forget-me-nots, and violets. JJufc perhaps it is to these latter j that most attention still continues to be I directed just at present. As the spring, be- ! comes farther ad van cud, all the different ! fbwers of that season will ha sure to super1 aede the violet. Tnere is a growing tendency in favour o£ hats — especially the largest shapes — being turned up at the back and having strings. As this U a very becoming style to nlftay . faces it is likely to be much in vogue. For these stringa, velvet or glace silk ribbons — cither black or coloured — are used. Sometimes the ribbon is of two colours, the second colour usually taking the form of an edging. In the majority o£ instances where these large hats are turned up at the back the i space is still rilled in with flowers, which are J thickly clustered together and arranged so . as to produce a comblik? effect. As for the style of trimming, this particular is quite as varied as any other, and it is plain to see that it is merely a matter of ! fancj, But all hats agree in that their trimming is placed very bigb, even those shapes with the tallest of tall crowns having their i large bows of lace or ribbon, or aigrettes, j or sprays of flowers, or plumes, or whatever else it may be, toweriug far above their orowne. So far neither shiny nor fine kinds of straw have made their appearance, all the new bats beibg made of a' straw which is both dull and coarse, much the same kind of thing as last season. Flowers of one shade are not so often seen as are different tones, varying, say, from rich < purple to the palest orchid tint, or from i bright and rich geranium pinks to the palest ' tones, and in every instance every kind of flower is mingled with its own foliage. When violets and other flowers of about the same size are U3ed they are as often as not ' merely made up into bnnches, which are placed round the crowc, and at one side there rises a hi<?h aigrette effect, produced - either by the flowers themselves so arranged or else by a tall bow of silk ribbon. I may mention that there are many of- the bright green hats whose trimming juat now consists , of purple-shaded violets — either single or ! double— and whose ribbon aigrette is of the brightest shade of greenish blue. Purple straws are largely trimmed with bright ■ geranium pinks. Gold ribbon bands, perhaps more suitable ! on account of their width for hats of the ! sailor shape, may be obtained either per1 fectly plain or having on them a raised 1 design, principally of flowers. This same 1 gold ribbon would also answer admirably ■' for waist belts. But as I said last week gold j will doubtless be much favoured for millinery I purposes both for spring and Bummer wear j this year. I saw the other day a most i ladylike aad becoming little bonnet whose foundation was entirely or gold, and whose trimming consisted of pink roßea 1 and of pink ribbon. la itself the was rather elaborate, having outstanding and upstanding ornaments the same as its foundation, therefore little trimming was required. Tbe roses, four in number, were placed at intervals close to the brim, and at the back the space was filled in with a number of upstanding bows of the 1 pink glace ribbon, the same also being usefl

for the strings. This bonnet, although bo extremely simple, vraa very neat and stylish. Some hats-oE delicate grey straw are also ■very nice, particularly when of the shade generally-known as dove-grey. In this tone there was one hat which was turned np at the side, and being bo. fanciful in itself, scarcely any trimming was wanted. Nothing therefore waß nsed exoept grey wirjgs, speckled with white. Some of the wings were fixed at the top of the crown. Even many of the tallest hats have some form of wing starting from this point, so it will readily be imagined that trimming cannot be placed too high. For millinery purposes kilted chiffon is to b8 a good deal* employed, and some of this material is cross-kilted. There is also a new kind of chiffon which in appearance largely resembles a sort of canvas. It has a good deal more substance, and is more glossy than chiffon has hitherto bean, and is therefore said, to be more durable. This latter point is a great consideration. It is called horsehair chiffon, and may be had in all colours. Bat all the same there seems to me to be scarcely any resemblance between it, and its predecessor, and it is much more like a harsh and stiff canvas. Many of the bonnets still have the tiniest of foundations. They are often fashioned like a series of. leaves or small rosettes. Indeed one of the' many novelties of the year is to be the rosette bonnet, so I am told. There i£ really not much to he seen yet In the dress material line. Tweeds at present rank foremost, and many of them are very neat in design. For the tailor-made style or coat and ekirt costumes plain clotb, serge,' or tweed are principally worn during an English spring. And also much attention has been concentrated on Drawing Room dressee, the first Drawing Boom of the season being held this week, and naturally silks, brocade?, velvets, and such like materials have been the most prominent of all. A few materials of a canvas-Hke texture — both silk and woollen — are shown over colours. But neither muslins nor regular Bummer materials are yet on view, though doubtless before long I will be enabled to send you some hints as to what novelties in this particular branch have been produced for the coming season. — Yours truly, Zealia.