MANAPOURI AND TE ANAU TO MILFORD SOUND.

Otago Witness, Issue 2240, 4 February 1897, Page 54

MANAPOURI AND TE ANAU TO MILFORD SOUND.

A PEW PRACTICAL NOTES FOR HOLIDAY-SEEKERS. No. 11. BOATING ON THE TVAIAU. Satisfactorily installed at Murrell'a accommodation house, aud the steamer being away for the day with another party of visitors, we decidod to spend an hour or two of the afternoon on the Waiau River. The owner of the steamer, Mr Doro, has a good boat, and this we obtained permission to use. It held ourparty of five and our driver comfortably, and we enjoyed the three-quarters of an hour we spent going down the stream very muoh indeed. The western side of the river in densely bushclad, beech predominating as it docs everywhere in these far- western districts, but the light, feathery foliage of the kowhai and tho smaller vegetation which crowds the banks give variety 1o the scene. The kowhai's flowering time was unfortunately over, but a couple of months earlier it must have been a mass of bloom. We were compensated, however, by occasional glimpses of rata aud mistletoe in flower, and, lazily drifting down the,, beautiful river, we thoroughly enjoyed the oh^ngeTfrom our previous three days' driving. Bub" the current was strong, and we began to realise that the three-quarters of an hour's pleasant progress down stream meant a good stiff pull of perhaps two hourc on the return. OUR ATTEMPT TO RETURN. We reluctantly headed o«r boat for homo, and fcr a time, while vre were fresh, mado tolerable progress. But tbe strain ouibur arms began to tell — particularly on the writer, — and notwithstanding well-suttained efforts in our determination not to be beaten, we made absolutely no progress when we got into the strong currents whioh abouud. We crossed and recrossed the river severaj times to avoid these, and strenuously ex?rtod ourselves in our effort to return. It became apparent, however, that we would bavn to give up the attempt, and we accordingly landed on the eastern bank, a mile or bo below Murrell'a, and made our way home, somewhat chagrined at having been beaten. We were consoled afterwards by Mr Dore, who told us ib was by no means the first time he had had to go down the river for hie boot. I hr.ye given these particulars of the incident for the information of future visitors, who will Bee the neoessity, unlenn they are strong rowers — and especially if they have a rather large party in the boat — of not allowing themselves to be beguiled into driftiug too far down stream. MANAPOUKI TOWNSHIP, so far as buildings are concerned, is almost r. township in name only. Murrell's is the only home that is seen as the visitor approaches. It is situated in a prominent position on the plateau which forms the angle where the river , leaves the lake, and has no bush surrounding J it. The house commands a fine view of the | lower end of the lake, and of the amphitheatre of noble mountains which almost encirole it. To the loft a wooded peninsula stretches out into the lake, and on the far side of thin the Monument rears its precipitous and cerraUtd head, a notable landmark, while further to tho ' left Titiroa*, a bold and striking mountain, is a feature of the landscape. From the top of Titiroft for a long distance down tho broad shoulders of its leading spur —if ib is permissible to use the word in connection with a mountain of such magnitude — the surface is one vast expame of white granite. Looked at from a distance there does not appear to be a veitige of soil or vegetation, and while it does not possess the of pure ■now, the effect is that of a broad snow-clad mountain top. We had seen it for some miles as we drove towards the lake, and we watohed it as it was finally lost to view some days afterwards on our return to civilisation, many miles away from it on the road to Lumsden. But to return to the "township." On the sides of tfin angle below Murrell's after a short descent of the terrace Manapouri township is still for the most parb clad with its original b'.ech and manuka bush, and a delightful, shady resort it is for the visitor in his spare hours, especially if he come 3 hum the cities and has botanical tastes, for in such case there is much to engage his attention. The bush, too, is alive with tho cicada, and its incessant chirping fills the air with a volume of sound. Nowhere in New Zealand has tho writer heard anything like it. In a clearing near the outlet of thjß river, the remainder of the township in situated. It consist* of one or two huts and a stable, all constructed of bush sij-bs, and a weatherboard house in course of 1 cpaatruotion for Mr Crosby, who owns the ■ stable, and runs the coaching service between Manapouri, Te Anau, and Lumsdrtn. Between the sections of the township ai.d the river a chain and a-haif of tbe water froutage is rest-rved. This is covered with beecb, manuka, and a few of the smaller varieties of shrubs, and no effort should bo nptired to pn-sorve this beautiful adornment of the laku aud river banks. If the writer mistakes not, Manapouri and Te Anau, as with Wakatipn and Wanaka, will yet bsc^nn the resort of hundreds of visitors iv the holiday season where at present they number only units, and the preservation of the great natural beauty of the bush at Manapouri towosbip cannot be too strongly kept befora tfeo present rosident*. The sections will no doubt be'largely cleared as they are gradually taken up, but the riverside reserve should be jealously guarded from destruction, OTHER VISITORS AND— DINKKB. About 7 o'clock we gather at the boat landing, in a picturesque bend of the river, to watoh the arrival of the little steamer from her trip up the lake. She steam* quickly through the disturbed waters where the river makes its exit, turns the bend, and her skipper dexterously grapples the buoy where she moon. Her three passengers are lady tourists from England, and together with ourselves they form the compauy at 8 o'clock dinner, where the beauties of the lake and the excellence of the viands are promiscuously di«cus«ed, for even amidst such scenery as that by which we are surrounded there is an appeal to a practical everyday sense which does not go unregarded, and the sweet new potatoes, the excellent scones, and the other good things on the- table receive tho assiduous attention they deserve. It is marvellous what aa effect all this driving and boating and walking in the fresh air of these far away solitudes have on city appetites. We are all alike, and are equally ;istoniahcd ?■'» tho change. t In the evening we have a short stroll on the tJerrace, eujoy the peaceful scene of la"ke and mountain before u% with effect heightened by a new moon and a starlit eky, and retire to rest early, as we are to be up betimes on the morrow, with anticipations of a. long day's enjoyment on Msnapouri's placid waters — for

• Titi means " perpendicular," as in a hill ; roa, 'long," or "-large^ 1 Both adjectives being applied to Titiroa, it ni»y be rendered "a loag, steep mouuUin.

we have a devout trust that they nill be placid. Oar host bu reassured us on this point. The day whioh has just closed had given; ha igbfcseers on the lako more wind than they eared about-, and Mr Murrell informed us that after a day's blow there was generally a calm ; and 10 it turned out. W« were STEAMING UP THE LAKE by 7 o'clook next moruiug, with tho water ■mooth and tho air deliriously balmy. Skirting the wooded peninsula previously referred to, with the upper portion of tbo Monument disclosing itself over the intervening bseoh forest, and the granite slopes of Titiroa stretohing boldly to the sky at our left, we shortly round the point towards which wa hate been »';carniug, and the baaubies of Munspouri disclose themselves to oar admiring eyes. Beautiful islands itud the lake, bush-clad from the water's edge to their very tops. Their precipitous sides are an unbroken expanse of boech foreit, relieved by occasional pines, and with brilliant patches of rata at frequent intervals enhancing their beauty and making uv ask ourselves why wo had lived for many years within e&sy rexch of such a prolific display of Nature's grandeur aud beauty and neglected our opportunities. We steam on -for hours amid such scene*, passing arms and indentations of the lake, each possessing some point of interest, and about midday wo approaoh the north arm, the head of which is to be oar anchorage and landing plaoo for lunch and an hour or two's enjoyment in tho bu»h before our return. An we approaoh, the worth arm, whioh is a few miles trom the head of bhe lake, the snow-clad peaks ahead of us are pointed i out and named by Mr Dore. There, . for example, is Leaning Peak, up a valley to the right of whioh. and about fivo miles from tho head of the lake, was situated <*he fateful otmp trom which poor Mainwarit g l 3 cown wandw»d on that memorable d*y in December, 1888, , and was lost to hnrunn ken for ever. I Other giant snow-clad peaks rear their heads in the loneliness of this far-diitaut western sky, and the whole scene is one whioh arouses feeliogt and emotions entirely unknown to us in our ordinary everyday life. I need not attompb to entlmorate or .de»cribft thene giants of the ruounI tain chain** which separate tbo valley* ar.d ' rivers and soauds of tho wnetern witstshfd from the lak«« and lands wo have bsf.n traversing. This has been done by other haodi, and those who are interested can get fuller information as to their peculiar features from the printed records. FRESH BKAUTIES. Aft wo ateadily push ou we are met by .a stiff breeze which cornea dowti from the head of the lake, aud the ute&tntr exhibits a measure of liveliness whioh gives a sufficient indication of wba*; might be expected in a storm on Man*pouri. We soon got out of the pitching, however, for the little steamer rounds a point, and entering the north arm pursues her way in smoother water. Fresh beauties meet us at every tarn. We pass close by the beetling cliffs in water of uuknown depth*. Up to the snow-line on the mountain (opi the beech forash stretches in thickest growth ; the ratx everywhere gladdens the eye with its brilliant patches of red ; through the bush the silver lines of ■now-fed watercourses gleam in their precipitous descent to tho lake. On our left, as wo make our way to the head of the arm, we pass by a splendid waterfall. It is a light worth looki ing at, with it* foaming water dashing down a precipitous course of perhaps 500 ft. We havo on board, in addition to tho younger Mr Dore, his uncle of the same name, who is very deeply interested in this waterfall, and who has spent; very many years in the Manapouri distriot. ! His theory is that thg waterfall musb ba fed I from a fake somewhere in the nurrounding ' mountains, and he arrives at this conclusion ; became practically the same body of watir continues to flow in dry seasons as iv wet. At present, for example, nearly all the enow has gone from the adjacent mountain tops, and yet, notwithstanding this aud the dry season, there is a fine body of water oom- ! ing down the fall. The surrounding moanI tains have never been explored, and there is I hege an interesting quettion for solution by some ! one who has the time and requisite physiqua for | the work. It would probably involve camping out for a few days, and if any of our athletic young oitizena should feel inclined to make a small beginning in exploring, here is an opportunity ; but the work should only be undertaken under competent guidance. Between 12 and 1 o'clock we reach tha head ; of the arm, into which the Fraemanburn pours its green-looking water. The day is hot, and I we soon find that we have anahoredka a par- ! tioularly warm corner of the lake. "Chore i* not a breath of wind, and the hot sun beats down on the white granite pebbles and sand with which the river and neighbouring oreeki I have covered the shore. Wn decide to have lunch on th« steamt.r before landing, and tho billy is quickly boiled in the stokehole in sone mysterious manner which I did not investigate, and the contents of a welltilled basket as quickly spread in tempting array. SANDFMES. , But we have ere this dixoovered tbab we hhVfl a little tormentor who is not going to allow us to have our meal in pnaca. We are, !iu face, beset by uandflies. We havo up to the present nos been very much troubled by them, I but here all the requisite conditions are present — heat, not a breath of air, human victims, — and the little scourgei make the most of their opportunity. There are two luachei going on afc the same time — onr own and the santlfliei'. It is true that we havo the beat of it, for we don't; actually suffer the last penalty, and that is the sure and certain fato of our persecutors. Tho slaughter it great. We conclude our lunch in quicker time than we should otherwise have done, and all go ashore. . iSome of the party mike their way up th« difficult course of a delightful little ■now-fed creek, and enjoy the cool shade of the luxuriant foliage on its banks. Its bei is full of granite boulders and detritus, the denudation of the moan tain down which it hat its courto. New and beautiful forms of vegetation meet the eye and give pleasure to everybody. Meantime two of the party have set up a camera, one of them a lady well known as a successful amateur photographer, who has succeeded in getting two or threa pretty views of lake and mouutain. We are all loth to embark again, for in the cool shades of tho beautiful creek, surrounded by a wealth of interesting plant life, we have escaped the persecuting nandfly, and are experiencing truly tranquil and placid enjoyment. But a warning ' whistle breaks the dreamy, Rilouce, and imperatively calls as on bojed. We find our way to thg beach, and soon bying all embarked, we sboant awa^ from "tho Fcoemauburn and its picturetqaa sarroundiugs. I We eagerly scan with renewed eajayment thej many notable point* of interest to which ojfl attention has been directed as we steamedd^H tho arm in the morning, pass within *^^^^| throw of the beautiful waterfall J^^^^^l referred to, and enter the lake wifb^^^^^^^H to help us on our homewnrd^uf^^^^^^^^| the landing place bouween^^^^^^^^^^^^^H a day of almost uuallo^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H having to tar a^i^iJ^^^^^^^^H^^^H

use tho word, for the sandflios of the Freeman* burn mouth are still a remembrance.) After dinnar we take our chairs onb to the front of the house, and here we sib until 10 o'clook, roluotant to go insido and break offiuter«alin# conversation on astronomy and ohher subjects, pursued amidst tho softening innaence of a truly glorious moon- and starlit niyhfc. We watoh a brilliant; star and the pale yoldeu section of the now moon successively disappear over the peaks in the west, and as our landlady, who has to bo up betimes in the morning, unmistakably wonders whatever can induce us to stop outside until 10 o'clook at night, and suggests that) ib is time tbe honsa was in darknass, we take in our ohairi, and prepare for a good night's rest; preparatory to taking our departure for Te Anau in tho morniug, and regretting that time will nob admit of our spending a' few days more ou the waters of bflantiful Manapouri, and in exploring its charming inlets and islands.