THE CAPE FOULWIND CAVES.

Otago Witness, Issue 1892, 15 May 1890, Page 34

THE CAPE FOULWIND CAVES.

ByL. J.S.

A SKETCH.

One warm and sunless day not long ago I started by rail, in company with a lady friend, to explore the caves above mentioned and the beautiful neighbourhood in which they are situated. Arrived at Cape Foulwind, we make our way, accompanied by the gentleman who acts on this occasion as our guide, philosopher, and friend, through the belt of bush that lies between the township and the cliffs, down which we descend by a rough, precipitousjtrack to the sea beach below, where we soon find ourselves in a region of rocky wonderland. High above us, as we gaze southward, stands the lighthouse ; while half a mile to seaward rise the Steeples, a line of jagged, dangerous rocks, the tallest pinnacle towering to a height of perhaps 100 ft above the surface of the ocean. To the left, and closer inland, are huge masses of rock, tortured and twisted into strange ,shapes, fantastic and grotesque, by the irresistible power of the great waves that roll in from the Pacific. Curious apertures appear to have thus been pierced, through which the sea rushes, seething and hissing with an awful din. These are called the Blowholes. Climbing on to the flat summit of one mass of granite, we discovered a large bowlshaped hollow worn out of the centre, smooth and even, as if carved by the hand of a sculptor, and wide and deep enough for a bath ; this has evidently been formed by a stone being continuously whirled round and round by the water, until the well-like shape has been attained.

Turning now to the right, we follow the base of a perpendicular wall of cliffs over 70ft in height, stretching for some distance in an undulating line to the north and forming little coves and indentures, but always with the clear-cut face of solid cliff, shutting off all possibility of escape to the unwary one who might be caught in any of these bays or coves by the incoming tide. Our way here lay across beds of granite boulders and masses of wave- worn rock, over which we clamber merrily ; and while peering and poking into the pools amongst these, we find ample verification of Professor Huxley's theories relative to primordial life, and ugly enough, as well as curious, were many of the specimens we discovered. However, as I doubt whether a dry dissertation on protoplasms would be relished by readers of this sketch, we will only stop here long enough to say that our guide (who is a geologist) drew our attention to the strange fossil forms to be found in this wild spot, many of which are immature shapes of unknown things, while others are recognisable at a glance. Here, for instance, are what look like enormous mushrooms growing out from.'andjyet forming apart of, the solid granite ; again, a whale's tooth juts out from a rock into which it has been firmly embedded. But leaving these curiosities behind, we now turn a bend in the cliffs and, lo 1 we find ourselves in close proximity to a lovely waterfall, that leaps sheer down from the top of the cliff to the rocks below in one unbroken, glistening sheet. Unfortunately for us there was no sunshine that day to pierce with bright prismatic rays the gleaming, fleecy water as it fell ; but even in the soft grey light through which we saw it the waterfall was exceedingly beautiful, and in itself was worth the journey.

Time not permitting us to linger here, we journey onward, and after visiting several dark caverns (candles and matches are only kept in the big cave) we presently round another curve and come upon a marvellous sight. This is a gigantic Gothiclooking archway, cut clean away from the cliffs, and no doubt^formed in the course of long ages by the constant action of the mighty waves that dash themselves with terrific force against this rock-bound coast, and where now, at full tide, the sea rushes through these giant arches with amazing force, and sweeping onward into the gloomy caves beyond, creates a dull, reverberating roar that is truly awe-inspiring. In this vicinity there stands in majestic isolation a laige island of solid granite, round which it is possible to walk when the tide is out. This island has no doubt been gradually severed from the mainland by the same superhuman force that fashioned the colossal gateways through which we pass to reach it. The summit of the island is clothed with a dwarfed verdure, so is also a curious, squareshaped rock standing $till further seaward, and which is known as the Giant's Tooth.

Passing through the granite arch, and beneath a dangerous overhanging cliff, we stand at the entrance to the principal cave, which, our guide is careful to inform us, is inhabited by a mighty monster of the deep. But laughing to scorn this Saurian fable, we boldly enter the subterranean passage that extends for a considerable distance right into the heart of the hills, On into the gloomy

depths we penetrate ; and certain it is that the heart of the writer quailed more than once as we proceeded, especially when coming upon d great heap of fallen rock lying in the way. " That," calmly remarks our guide, pointing to the pile of debris, " that stuff broke from the roof about three months ago."

" Good gracious I " we exclaim. " What, then, if another and perhaps larger displacement should occur while we arc here ? Why, we might be entombed in this awful place, and never see the light of day again I "

" Yes," with a provoking smile. " Rescue under such circumstances would be an impossibility ; for if the rocks didn't crush us the sea would soon come in and finish the affair. But, seriously, there is not the slightest danger of any such catastropha overtaking us."

Nevertheless, in spite of this assurance, it was a sensation nearly allied to relief when, after retracing our steps, we once more emerged into the broad daylight and inhaled a long breath of the sweet, fresh air, and glanced with renewed interest at the wild scene around us. Overhead a cloudy, changeful sky, from which a light rain was now descending with misty effect ; behind and about us the great black rocks tumbled about in all sorts of inconceivable positions ; and in front, far as the eye could reach, a wide waste of angrylooking sea. The tide was making such swift encroachments before we could tear ourselves away from this fascinating spot that on more than one occasion we were obliged to wait until a receding wave gave us an opportunity to rush round a jutting point into|safer quarters. Indeed, this portion of the cape can only be visited with perfect safety at certain seasons of the tide. As for the caves, although decidedly wanting in the strange, fantastic beauty of those in the limestone formation, yet they possess a weird and sombre grandeur peculiarly their own, which fills the mind of those who love to search out and examine Nature's handiwork with a sense of awe and wonder rather than delight.

Seals are plentiful upon the Steeples and other rocks in this locality, and our conductor told us that once when he went on an expedition out there he caught a young seal, which he was carrying carefully on his arm, when the creature suddenly making a snap at his face caught hold of a piece of his beard instead. Needless to say, the baby seal was dropped in a hurry, especially as the maternal parent appeared on the scene and exhibited signs of doing immediate battle on behalf of her offspring.