Maxims for Gardeners.

Otago Witness, Issue 1754, 4 July 1885, Page 7

Maxims for Gardeners.

All substances which, added to the soil, contribute to its fertility may properly be called manures. Some of them act more quickly but are not so lasting, others are slower in their operation, but. more enduring. Some act directly as food to the roots, others act on the soil, and render available elements contained in it which the plants roots themselves do not easily extract . Manures are arranged under two general ho.ulingri - organic and inorganic. The organic are derived from vegetable or animal matter, and i.he inorganic from minerals, and each is inoivased in value and efficacy by undergoing either natural or artificial processes or both combined. To describe the different processes to which eat-bis subjected is beyond our limits. Principally, the organic is prepared for the soil by fermentation and decomposition; time and labour are, almost the only agents in promoting the-e. As plant roots cannot take solids in tluough their pores, but only liquids or gases, th«ir food must be converted into one or other of ihj«.e conditions. Hotting or decomposing effects this in orgunic<hiatters. Fallen and withered leaves form one of the best manures -when reduced to mould. It is principally used mixod with sand or soil for pot plants, and the method of converting them into mould is by gathering them in heaps and covering them with earth. When forming the heaps a sprinkling of hot lime or sulphur should be regularly made to destroy insects or their germs — injurious to plants, and which may be attached to the leaves. A little sulphur in its crude state is not injurious to the roots of plants, except, perhaps, ferns and their allies, and leaf mould when it is present should not be used in their case, nor the moulds where lime has been added be used for evergreen plants. Tho leaves of most of the brassicas, and some other plants, are valuable when green for manure in agriculture, but not so well suited in gardening, and should be gathered in heaps. The shawd or haulm of potatoes are not of much accoxuit. Neither tan, bark, nor sawdust arc of much account as manures, and not until either is thoroughly rotted. By some gardenars the tan is blamed for producing or promoting the growth of fungi of different sorts, and on that account is considered objectionable. Root is a most valuable manure, but is not easily obtained in quadtities to be used for top dressing. It should be kept quite dry until it is to be used. The best method is to use it as a liquid ; when dissolved in water all its valuable properties are retained, a largo portion of them being lost when it is spread on the ground— the ammonia particularly escaping in the. atmosphere. Half a barrowful of soot to a hogshead of water is a good proportion. After being well i stirred and mixed it should be allowed to stand for a few days to settle, and the liquid given hi a clear stato. Bones prepared in a variety of ways are extensively used in garden cultivation. They are either ground or crushed small, or reduced to a powder by the use of chemicals, and then called superphosphate. The quantity used must to a large extent be regulated by the description of soil and variety of plant. Nightsoil is a very powerful manure. To deodorise it the best agent is charcoal, but when this cannot be obtained dry earth forms a good substitute. The mass should be well mixed, put into heaps, and covered with earth; turning over a few times is necessary, and it should remain for a year at least before being used. Stable dung is the most generally used manure, being more easily obtained. Its merits need not bo described, as they are well known. In forming heaps care should be taken to have the manure well moistened, as when packed dry the heat engendered becomes too great and drives off some of the valuable gaseous properties. When a heap is being turned water should be regularly applied if it appears too dry. It- is not advisable, as a, rule, to allow too much decomposition, to take place, and for some purposes the droppings should bo separated from the litter or .straw and kept by themselves. Cow dung is slower in its action, but more lasting than horse, and is consequently inferred for fruit trees. It should for Ijljs purpose be well mixed with so^l before, d^hig applied, as when used alone iij flues not decompose so readily, and, from its retaining moisture for a long time it may prove hurtful. There aro other organic manures which might be particularised, but these will be treated on under liquid manures.

1 There nre various conditions to be considered in regard to pruning rose.-;, the variety, vigour, position, and object being among these, '('he time for pruning may either he the end of autumn or early spring. Autiuun pruning if; objected, tolly many on tl\o ground, that tjhe- miU\ weather whichj frequently occurs with \\«, foe continuous days is apt} to, excite toa wn-ly growth, and if frost succcedj the, youn£ shoots arc apt io be nipped and. th.o Wounis injured. Mi* l\vul, who i is, o;n« y? U»o highest authorities, say* in his i '* ]^f»sti Uarden "' that this ittthe- ease particularly with the Chinese Noi?ette,BoiU'bon,tea-scenLcd, and the hybrids «i v thoso kinds, and which ho terms " o\Mtable, %> because they arc quickly wjoUbcl to growth. The Provencf-, p,V,ench, j Alba, and others rarely suffer *y.«i tliis cause, as they are not so readi^,- *ts,octecT, by the state of the weather. 3^e i,t remarked', however, thp.t the quickness with which ( 'buds ajre' roused: into action depends fiiiith oh how far thp. shoots were matured, thp previous auJwnA* «h.o Iwss mature

the more excitable. It will be perceived that there are difficulties in the way of autumn pruning when applied to the excitable kinds, which can only be remedied by affording protection from frost should a mild winter (June or July) be succeeded by severe weather, and this cannot be done without a considerable amount of trouble. Regarding spring pruning he remarks that its chief advantage is that the flower shoots are placed beyond the reach of injury by frost. If during winter any buds push forth in unpruned roses, it is those at the ends of branches, and they should be removed by pruning. But there is an evil attending this apparent advantage. When pruning is put off to spring the buds placed at the extremeties of the shoots are often found in leaf, and in the operation we cut off some inches from a shoot in this state. The tree is denuded of its leaves and thereby receives a check, the .sap beiug in active motion exudes from the fresh wound. The lower buds find themselves suddenly in contact with a great supply of food by the cutting away of the buds beyond them. There is a pause. Soon one or two buds at Vtm extremity of the pruned shoots take up the work ; they swell and are developed apace, but all below remain dormant. Thus spring prun- ■ ing is unfavourable to an abundant and regular development of branches and flowers, and consequently to the well-forming of a tree. The flowers are also produced later in the season, and of smaller size. The inference to be deduced is that the less excitable Muds should be pruned in autumn, and the others should be thinned out when the shoots are very abundant, leaving the shortening to be done in spring. The general rule is clearly laid down that the extent to which the removal of shoots or portions of shoots ought to be carried depends on the vigour, of the plant. In a strong grower more shoots will have to be removed than when the plant is weak, but the shoots '"ft growingshould be pruned long, otherwise w^,. .. nd not flowers will be produced. Weakly growing plants, on the other hand, require their shoots shortened back more closely. The Provence, moss, damask, and alba roses, with the exception of tlie vigorous kinds, require to be. close pruned or to have their shoots shortened to three or four eyes. The French ought to bo well thinned and shortened to four, five, or six eyes, and the strongest growers should be left still longer. The Boursault, Austrian brier, and Banksian must also be well thinned, but merely the points of the shoots left taken off. The Banksian should be pruned in summer. The Bourbon, Noisette, Chinese, tea-scented, and their hybrids may be thinned in autumn, but the shortening back of the shoots is better deferred until September. The strongest growers, especially among the hybrids, should be well thinned out and pruned to from eight to 12 eyes, those of a less vigorous growth to six or seven eyes, and those that are weakly or only of moderate growth to three, four, or five years. In all thinn ..g those shoots which appear diseased, badly )\i: cued, or growing confused so as to disfigure tht hape of the tree, should be taken off first, and after their removal if plenty of light and air are not admitted others must also be taken off to remedy this and support a healthy condition of the tree. Iv all thinning out cut close to the" stem, and don't leave a small piece sticking out, and in shortening cut in a slanting direction immediately above a bud. In pruning pillar and climbing roses the course to be followed is to, train as many shoots asthere is space to cover without overcrowding or confusion. The lateral shoots may be cufc in to from four to seven eyes, but if it is desired to fill up a vacant space in the shortest time cut them back to or two eyes. To obviate the necessity of cutting away a large_ number of shoots, the practice of disbudding, or rubbing off the eyes, is strongly urged. This is not only an easier operation, but thereby the strength of the plant is not wasted in producing shoots only to be cut away. This. plan is performed as tho eyes make their appearance. Mr Paul gives it as his experience s " I believe disbudding to be the system best , calculated to produce flowers in the finest possible condition, to keep a plant in full health and vigour, and to bring it to tlie- highest pitrfa of _ beauty." In this process, however, as in thinning, the vigour of tho pjant must be taken into account, if too many aife removed from a free grower thoso \cfii vrill become strong; i ho its, with a tendency- to run to wood ratherthan to flower j if an the other hand too manyare left on ehe result will be over-crowding, and the kpiife be required to thin out. Again, in less vigorous kinds a greater number of buds should be rubbed out, but those- allowed to remain may be left closer i-ogether. Whether the practice of pruning or disbudding be followed great care should be exercised, as bad effects are sure to follow when a plant is deprived of too many of its shoots or foliage- at any one , time. Both are essential to the prosperity of the plant, and by them the sap or nourishment is regulated and distributed^