A TRIP TO STEWART'S ISLAND AND THE WEST COAST.

Otago Witness, Issue 1162, 7 March 1874, Page 11

A TRIP TO STEWART'S ISLAND AND THE WEST COAST.

(TltOM OUIt SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.)

In accordance with a resolution passed by the House of "Representatives last Session, the General Government despatched the p.s. Luna on an expedition to Foveaux Strait and the West Coast of the Middle Island, for the purpose of selecting sites for new lighthouses, proposed to be erected at different places. The Luna left Wellington for the South on the 14th February, having on board Captain Johnson and Mr Wilson, of the Marine Department, and a numerous party of excursionists. After calling at Cape Campbell, Lyttelton, aud Timaru, she arrived at O.raiaru on the 18th. Most of her passengers went ashore fora abort time, and Captain Johnson visited, the flagstaff on the point for the purpose of fixing upon a suitable site for a light. Having inspected the ground, he proceeded on board, and the Luna was sor>n on her way to Dunedin. She called in .it Moeraki, where Captain Johnson iixed upon a bluff near the township as a suitable spot for a lighthouse. Steam was then got up, and, as your readers are already aware, the Luna arrived in Dunedin on the evening of the 19th. Before resuming her voyage, she was joined by a small party of Dunedinites, among whom were Captain Hutton, Provincial Geologist ; Mr Stout, M.P.C. ; and Mr Alfred Curton(of Messrs Burton Brothers). The latter gentleman's services as a photographer have been secured fur the purpose of obtaining views of some of the romantic scenery to be visited by the Luna during her cruise. While the Bteamcr was at our poi't, Captain Johnson visited' Capo Saundors, and inspected tho lighthouse at Taiaroa Head. The voyage was resumed on the 21st, aud from our special correspondent on board the steamer we havo received the following account of her trip to Foveaux Strait : —

VROJI TOUT CHALMERS TO THE BLUFF.

About half-past six on Saturday evening, I went on board the Luna at Port Chalmers, and shortly afterwards Captain Fairchilcl gave the order to cast her loose from her moorings. She soon cleaved the wharf, and had fairly started down the harbour, when it was reported to the skipper that an important personage had boon left behind, namely — a tinsmith, who had been engaged for the Dog Island lighthouse. The man was indispensable, so there was nothing for it but to turn back and wait for him. The steamer was backed close to the wharf, and the whistle shrieked loud and long. After a tedious half-hour had been wasted, a man who had been sleeping in the forecastle came on deck, and enquired what all the row was about. The querist turned out to be the missing tinsmith. After indulging in some strong language, and winding up with a hearty laugh, tho captain ordered "half-speed ahead," and wo were quickly spinning down tho hai'bour. We soon lost sight of Port Chalmors, wrapped up as it was in a thick fog, which seemed to get denser as we approachod tho Heads. The light at Taiai'oa Head was almost invisible, and out at sea it would have boon impossible to observe any object three ship's lengths ahead. The shipjjwas

put under easy steam, going along at the rate of about six knots. We arrived off the Nuggets Lighthouse at 6 o'clock on Sunday morning, and came to an anchorage close to the beach under the shelter of the Nuggets. The water was smooth as a mill-pond ; and most of the party went ashore in the boats. After landing, we proceeded along a winding road through a scrubby bush, and at last arrived at a fine stone dwelling-house, which has apparently been recently builb for the lighthouse keepers. The latter are evidently troubled with numerous visitors, as we found a notice nailed to a tree requesting us to " tie up your horses here." On reachmg the lighthouse, we were well repaid for our trouble in climbing the road with a| splendid view of the surrounding scenery. As ! the beauties of the scenery find, the wonders of the lighthouse have already been described in your columns, I shall not trouble you with any further description of them. I shall content myself with saying that they were done full justice to by the visitors on that occasion. After getting a thorough soaking in the surf, we returned to the steamer, and were soon on our way again. We left at 11 a.m., 'and shortly afterwards arrived at Catlin's Bay, where we had to land Mi* Mills, Collector of Customs at Dunedin. We went close alongside the wreck of the ill-fated Surat, and had an opportunity of seeing all that the wind and the waves had left of her. The only sign of serious damage done to her hull was observable about the poop deck, which seemed to have been stove in by the waves. Her head was close in to the beach, with her stern to the high rollers, which now and then broke over her. Mr Milk was safely landed in fche river, and the steamer' 3 head once more turned southward. The clay proved beautifully fine, and as the steamer kept close into the shore, we had an excellent opportunity of viewing the scenery of the coast. At sunset, the Bluff was near at hand, Ruapuke and Stewart's Island standing out boldly to the S.W. After speaking the Wallabi, bound for Riverton, we made for Dog Island. We arrived there at S o'clock, and Captain Johnson, Mr AVilson, and a number of volunteers went ashore to inspect the lighthouse. We remained anchored under the lee of the Island for about three hours, and then crossed the Strait to the Bluff, where we had to land a passenger. After a brief stay of an hour, the steamer got under weigh, and was steered towards

CENTHE ISLAND.

This island is about 500 acres in extent, lying about eleven miles from the town of Riverton, on the mainland. The Maori name is Raiotonga. It is situated at the western entrance to Foveaux Strait, and is in a very good position for the new lighthouse proposed to be erected there by the Government. We arrived off the island at G o'clock on Monday morning, and we landed on an open beach, without much difficulty. Close to the shore a well-finished four-roomed house was discovered, ! with a garden attached ; but, from all appearances, some months had elapsed since the occupants had deserted the place. Some hundreds of sheep and cattle were found on the island, apparently in good condition, but very wild, Ducks and geese were also abundant. The north-east side of the island is high and rocky, with stunted weather-beaten trees growing to the top. Parts of the island are evidently good, and would repay cultivation. Captain Johnson fixed upon a very suitable site for a lighthouse upon an elevation of 220 feet. Captain Hutton collected a few sponges and specimens of seaweed, but did not succeed in finding anything of importance. We left Centre Island at 7.30 a.m. A few miles from the shore we fell in with a fishing whaleboat, manned by four Maoris. The boat was well filled with fish, aid Captain Fairohild made an exchange by which the Maoris did not lose much, They got three or four loaves of bread and a bottle of brandy for a hapuka (or groper) of about COlbs. weight. We then shaped our course across the Strait in the direction of Stewart's Island. We were very fortunate in respect of weather. A light breeze was blowing from the eastward, and the day was beautifully clear. On the mainland could be seen tho Longwoocl Ranges, and in the distance, rising to a great height, could be seen the Takitimos, the highest peak of the range being capped with snow. The Bluff could be seen to the eastward, and far away to tho westward the conical top of the Solandor could be distinguished. Straightahead Stewart's Island loomed uplargeandgrand, with itsforestclad mountains. At 10 o'clock we made the north end of the Island at Cone Point, easily distinguished by a remarkable patch ot Avhite sand. No suitable landing place could be found at this point, so we steamed along the coast in the direction of Rugged Islands, which lie on the N.W. corner of Stewart's Island. Keeping close to the shoro wo could plainly distinguish the scrubby vegetation on the hills, with rocks appearing through the scrub here and there. No harbour or landing place was observed until we reached

KUQGED ISLANDS.

This group consists of four or five small islands, close to a bold headland on Stewarts Island, from which they run out in a straight line. They well deserve their name of " Hugged," the bare hard rocks of which they are composed being torn and twisted after a most fantastic fashion. The largest of tho group rises 500 feet abovo the sea, and seen from a short distance appeared quite inaccessible. Nothing daunted, however, by its savage appearance, Capt Johnson, accompanied by his assistant, Mr Wilson, and by Capfc. Hutton, went off to the largest island by a boat, and effected a landing, while tlio stoamer, with the rest of the

party on board, rounded the group, and after contending against a strong tiderip, got into smooth water between Red Head Peak, on Stewart's Island, and Codfish Island. Prom this position we had a view of the western side of Stewart's Island, stretching for miles to the southward. The coast-line is mountainous, although not very high, and is apparently forest clad throughout.

CODFISH ISLAND

Is about four miles long, by two or three broad, and is distant about two miles from Stewart's Island. There is a splendid harbour on the north-east side, where a fleet of vessels could lie at anchor protected from almost every wind. The Luna anchored close in shore, and landed some of the party on a sandy beach, while others took a whaleboat and pulled towards some rocks which promised well for fishing. Those who went on shore found it impossible to penetrate any distance into the interior, owing to the dense forest with which the island is covered, and which extends almost down to the beach. The timber appeared to consist chiefly of black and red pine. At some former time Codfish Island was evidently used as a camping ground by sealers and whalers. Some very old graves, with fences and headstones in a dilapidated state, were discovered close to the beach. The common rat was found to lie very numerous on the island, but no traces of wild pigs were discovered. The fishing party in the whaleboat obtained some very fair sport, making a good haul of blue cod, trumpeter, and parrot fish. After remaining at the island for an hour, | we steamed off in the direction of Rugged Islands, for the purpose of picking up Capt. Johnson's party. On nearing the group we discovered their boat approaching the steamer, and in a few minutes they were alongside. We were glad to heai from Capt. Johnson that he not only succeeded in clambering to the top of the island, but also found a -very suitable spot for a lighthouse on the summit. A trig, station was discovered on the island. Whale birds were very numerous, the ground in places being quite honeycombed by their operations. While climbing up, Capt. Johnson and his companions could hear the birds uttering charge cries underground, and they succeeded in digging out one specimen, which has been duly preserved for the Museum by Capt. Hutton. Capt. Johnson thinks that so far Rugged Island is the most superior site for the contemplated lighthouse, the only drawbacks being its isolation and great height. After taking the party on board, we returned along the north-eastern shore toward Port William (Port Caroline on the map). As we approached Port William, the hills skirting the shore line became higher, and were covered with timber of a much superior description. As far as we could see inland the island was densely timbered. The steamer for hours cruised close in shore, so close that at one point we could plainly see with the naked oye a trig, station erected in the bush. We observed several beautiful bays capable of affording good shelter to large vessels, with open beaches where boats could land passengeis with ease. Shortly after 5 p.m. we ariived at

PORT WILLIAM,

a splendid harbour, extending about a mile and a half inland, and about 3 miles broad at the widest part. It i 3 completely landlocked, protected from every wind. It is surrounded by hills of moderate height, which, like the neighbouring country, are covered from top to bottom with fine timber. The view presented by the harbour on entering it is very lovely, and well calculated to rouse in the most apathetic some enthusiasm for the beauties of mountain and I forest, and marine scenery, which in this delightful spot are scattered with a lavish hand. On entering the harbour we observed a little bay to the right hand side, where some houses have been erected. These consist of immigration barracks — of respectable dimensions — the residence of the Har-bour-Master (Captain J. B. Craig), and some small dwelling-houses erected by the Shetland Islanders who havo recently , been settled on Stewart's Island. We ' steamed into this bay, and anchored close to a fine sandy beach' in deep water. While within a few hundred yards of the shore, the man heaving the lead reported, "No bottom at seven fathoms." The Harbour Master was absent from the port, visiting another part of the Island at the time of our visit, but we were at once boarded by two settlers and a boy. They informed us that several of the Shetlanders had abandoned the settlement, the demand for labour and the high wages offered tempting them to take uj) their abode in Southland. We remained at anchor in the port all night, the water being quite smooth, scarcely a ripple disturbing the glass-like surface. This appears to be its normal condition, as we were told by oae of the settlers that during his stay there for eight months, he had never seen tho water less smooth. During the night a smart little cutter was pulled into the bay, whore she lay anchored. This proved to be the Flying Scud, which a few years ago — as some of our readers may remember — went to the rescue of a shipwrecked crew of sealers, who spent several months of dreadful misery on the Auckland Islands, living on seals' flesh and shaga. Early on Tuesday morning several of our party wont ashore, some to bathe, others to shoot kakas and pigeons, and to catch fish near the rocks. Those who went into the bush with their guns succeeded in shooting a few pigeons, out the sport proved rather tame. This, however, was owing to no want of birds, as large nights of pigeons and kakas wero observod from the deck of tho Luna. Tho fishers wore more successful, as they made a good haul o i

trumpeter and also obtained a few specimens of an excellent fish Galled the taiahflri. We left Port William for the Bluff shortly after 8 a.m., and now, while I write, we are speeding across Poveaux Strait at a rapid rate, the weather being beautifully fine. We make a short stay at the Bluff, where I will take the opportunity of sending you these hasty notes of our progress up to the present. We take our departure almost immediately for the West Coast ; and as we are about to bid good-bye to civilisation for some time, you are not likely to hear anything more about the Luna for seven or eight days.