FOVEAUX STRAIT.

Otago Witness, Issue 1106, 8 February 1873, Page 1

FOVEAUX STRAIT.

Dr Hector rejoined the steamer on the arrival of the train from Invercargill, on the morning of the 3rd January. The party was augmented by the addition of one or two gentlemen from Southland. About noon the Luna cast off from the wharf, and was soon under weigh making the passage of the Strait. The weather, despite certain premonitory symptoms, continued remarkably fine, with a light breeze on the ship's quarter. Outside Bluff Harbour, the eye of the voyager meets with sufficient subjects for speculative interest, unless, indeed, the arrogant demands of the inner-man set up more pressing claims upon his attention — a result by no means uncommon amidst the contending elements met with in Fo veaux Strait. Seaward, in the immediate vicinity of his course, Dog Island, with its spiral towered lighthouse, first attracts notice. The island, which in appearance is little better than a low rocky ledge, is not more than a mile in extent. It is situated about three miles from the entrance to Bluff Harbour, and according to nautical observation, the sea breaks heavily for some distance off its eastern side. As a beacon for the guidance of vessels navigating the Strait the situation of the Dog light is unquestionable. Indeed it looks not unlike as if in the economy of nature it had been expressly designed for the purpose. Beyond Dog Island, the dim and distant outlines of the Ruapuke group rear their modest heads on the one side, and the tall rugged Mount Anglem (Stewart's Island) on the other. With a good offing, the more distinctive features of that truly remarkable headland, the Bluff hill, are brought out in good relief. The great extent of level country by which it is surrounded effectually disposes of all question of its import- ■ ance as a land mark. It is 855 feet above sea level, and forms the extremity of a narrow and irregular shaped promontory, bounded by the New River on the one side, and the entrance to Bluff Harbour on the other. The view obtained from this hill is very grand. Seaward the range extends from Brothers Point at the mouth of the Waikawa to Solander Island at the southern extremity of the Strait, with an intermediate sea view embodying every variety in the shape of islet, from the | bald-headed Seal Rock to the island continent with towering heights thousands of i feet high. The interest which attaches to this prospect is increased by the fact that it embodies much of what is entitled to be regarded as a saving clause in the economy of nature. As a harbour of refuge Port William, for example, is a place of the very utmost importance to the shipping trade of the southern coast. But for the ready access and good shelter it affords, the boisterous winds and heavy swells that set in through the Strait would have proved far more disastrous than they have actually done. Paterson's Inlet with its numerous coves, as also the Ruapuke Group, afford good shelter from certain of the prevailing winds. , Inland the view is equally grand, being, only shut out by the mountain range of the great central chain in the

neighbourhood of the Lakes country. From the Bluff the coast trends in a north-westerly direction, forming a succession of rocky bights, and terminating n the New River Heads. Thence to Jacob's River the coast line forms a sandy beach some 20 or 25 miles in length, and which is locally known as the Riverton Beach. At its southern extremity the shore follows a curve round to Howell's Point, inside which is the Bay of Riverton. As a harbour, Riverton is only suitable for vessels of limited draught. The entrance is not only narrow, but it is beset by strong currents at both ebb and flow of the tide.

South from Howell's Point, the coast resumes the bold rugged character which it loses after passing the mouth of the Mataura. A few miles north-east from the point there is a small triangularlyshaped island, named Centre Island. It is a bleached-looking, weather-beaten spot, moderately high ; and in extent it cannot exceed a mile, or a mile and a half. It is held in tenure by a solitary settler, who occupies it for sheep country. A reference to the chart shows that it is surrounded by dangerous reefs. Leaving Centre Island on the right, the Bouthwest coast of Stewart's Island soon began to open out. Codfish Island, at first observed as a kind of out-crop, gradually became better defined until it was brought fully into view, a moderately high tract of table land, with a clear passage between it and Stewart's Island. Although now completely deserted, and, as we are informed, but rarely visited, Codfish was at one time a rallying point for sealers frequenting the neighbouring coasts. Certain overtures were recently made to the Waste Lands Board (Invercargill) for the purchase of the island. The negotiation has not, so far as is yet known, been successfully concluded.

In the afternoon the Luna was reported to be.off Tewaewae, a bay with an indentation some seven miles in depth. Mussel Beach, on its western bank, is one of the oldest whaling stations on the coast. After being abandoned for many years it was re- occupied by a party belonging to Kiverton, by whom operations were carried on for a year or two. Eventually, however, it was given up as a bad spec. Since then it has continued in a state of abandonment. The Pahia, or, as they are better known, the Orepuki, Diggings are situated on the opposite side of the bay. Some distance off the eastern point one of a train of seagulls which usually follow in the wake of a vessel was cleverly captured with an ordinary baited hook. It proved to be a very handsome specimen of the Nelly (ossigragra gigantea). After being carefully examined, it was handed over to the operator to be skinned and preserved for museum purposes. Just before dusk the Solander hove in sight. As seen from a distance of probably 25 or 30 miles bhis singular rock presented an appearance not unlike the noted Ailsa Craig, in the Firth of Clyde. A nearer view revealed a smaller rock in the vicinity, which to some extent destroys the resemblance otherwise borne to the Craig. Solander Island, named by Captain Cook after the companion of his researches — Dr Solander —is an excellent land mark, or, as it has been designated in the interests of the shippingtrade, aperfect fingerpost for ships entering the Strait from the southward. It rises almost perpendicularly out of the sea to a height of 1100 feet. In clear weather it can be seen at a distance variously estimated at from 30 to 40 miles, and from its general appearance it is hardly possible to mistake it. From its relative importance to the shipping interest, the Solander is a name with which all of \is are more or less familiar. Voyagers from the westward, the principal highway of our deep sea traffic, look upon their journey as, practically speaking, accomplished when they sight the Solander. Its very name infuses fresh courage into many a sea-sick soul, and bids it look forward to a speedy release from a state of physical debility painful to contemplate ; and yet little or nothing is known of the Solander beyond the name. The only record we have found of its internal aspect is that furnished by Cook in the narrative of his memorable voyages. "The surface of the island, " he says, "is broken up into craggy 'hills of great height, on the summit of which there are several patches of snow. ; It is not, however, wholly barren, for we could see wood not only in the valleys, but upon the highest ground ; yet we saw no appearance of habitation. " Some years ago, a party of Invercargill men conceived the idea that they would make their fortunes out of the guano deposits on the island. They chartered a vessel, and so particular were they that their motives should not be discovered, that they took their departure from the New River stealthily ; at all events, they sailed without beat of drum. In due course they returned laden with the deposit. Upon examination, it was discovered that the stuff was worse than useless, in consequence of its lengthened exposure to sea

water. So thoroughly disgusted were they with their ill luck that they have studiously avoided reference to the subject, and no information about the place has been gleaned from them. Enough, however, transpired to prove that a landing on the island could not only be effected, but that a vessel might be loaded from its shores. As it was now evident it would be quite impossible for the Luna to make Preservation Inlet before dark, the vessel was put under easy steam, with the -view of prolonging the passage until daylight. At 4 o'clock the following morning she was off Puysegur Pomt — a low sloping projection forming the northern head of the Inlet. Shortly afterwards she steamed up the north channel, and came to an anchorage under Coal Island, between that and Crayfish Island.

PRESERVATION INLET AND ITS COAL. This Inlet, many of our readers know, forms the most southern of a series of remarkable sounds situated on the southwest coast of the Middle Island. The entrance is situated between Gulches Headland on the north, and Point Puysegur on the south. The distance between these points is estimated at 4£ miles. Coal Island, lying at the mouth of the Sound, separates the entrance into two distinct channels — the one about two miles, and the other not more than half a mile wide. The narrow channel which forms the southern arm has the additional disadvantage of carrying " shoal water," at some places not more than one and one and a quarter fathom deep. It is merely a boat channel, or at best a refuge for small crafts in case of emergency. Although not a bar harbour, with certain winds the sea is reported to break heavily at its entiance. The main or northern entrance has a depth of from sixteen to twenty fathoms with safe and convenient anchorage of from five to nine. Puysegur is a low sloping point, while that of Gulches Head is extremely rugged, with rocks above water mark two cable lengths off, as also a succession of sunken rocks and reefs, which are, however, readily detected by mariners. Coal Island has an elevation of 850 feet. It is about two and a half miles long from north to south, and about one and a half mile broad. On entering the Inlet on the morning of the 4th, the Luna steered round to the north-eastern end of the island, anchoring under Crayfish Island in nine fathoms of water, so close in that a hawser was run out and secured to the trees. The island, which was at one time an extensive whaling station, is still known amongst the Maoris visiting Preservation Inlet as a favourite camping ground. It contains a number of very fine caves in the slate formation, which afford evidence of having been largely taken advantage of by Maoris and others for shelter. Crayfish, or as it is otherwise named, Steep-to, no doubt derives its name from the shallow passage between it and Coal Island, where large crayfish (Palinurus) find favourite feeding ground. The caves are of considerable size, and have evidently been formed by the erosion of the sea. In some cases their entrance is elevated as much as ten, and even twenty feet above high water mark, a circumstance from which Dr Hector has assumed that the land is on the rise. After breakfast the steamer's boats were manned and placed at the disposal of the party. Dr Hector, accompanied by Mr Brodrick, of Dunedin, a gentleman understood to be largely interested in the coal working, and others, proceeded in one of the boats to inspect the mining operations which have been going on for some time past. The locality of these operations is the entrance to the south channel, on the same side as Puysegur Point. After leaving the steamer, the boat proceeded down the Sound, hugging Coal Island all the way. With a few exceptions, the coast of this island is rock bound, and at many places so steep as to be in a great measure inaccessible. The exceptions are patches of sandy beach in coves, but these are neither numerous nor are they at all extensive. The beaches carry the thinnest possible covering of black sand. No other indications of an auriferous nature were observed. On the way down a landing was effected at various places, and samples, chiefly of the granite rock, carried away. The morning, which broke dull and threatening, now seemed as if it had settled to rain, and during the sail down the Sound a few heavy pelting showers f elL Thick sheets of mist drifted down the sides of the mountains with a velocity that would have satisfied the cravings of a son of the Gael, howe^-sr much he might pride himself upon atmospheric effects produced in his fatherland. At (the mouth of the Sound. — which is about four miles long — the boat struck across (to f&e opposite shore to a, point known .as Otago's Retreat. On Bearing the shore, tihe jkuts erected by the goal ' prospectors., .and which are now deserted, ! were seen perched upon the face of the nilL A nearer view revealed the existence ol * rudely £Qj&&ructed jetty, to-

gether with a coal shoot, formed out of the rock. A quantity of dross, or small coal, lay at the foot of the shoot, evidently showing a boat had either been loaded from the jetty, or that preparations for loading had been made. On landing, the party proceeded to make an overhaul of the place. Certain coal samples lying in one of the huts, regarding which instructions had been sent by the promoters of the mine, were hunted up and taken possession of. Between the huts, or rather the jetty, and the mine, situated on the face of a small peninsula outside the harbour, and looking seaward, a tramway has been made. The distance is about a mile, and although rails have not been laid, the work is otherwise complete. At this face the outcrop of two seams occur, and it is at one of these that the drive, 100 feet into the cliff, has been put. The thickness of coal at the face of the level is 3ft. 2in., with a sandstone pavement and about 2 inches of shale upon the roof, followed by sandstone. The coal is hard and of a solid nature, presenting a good appearance in the face of the drive. The absence of any parting, of easily worked material, between the coal and the sandstone pavement, is considered to be a disadvantage, as the undermining must be effected in the coal itself.

On proceeding to explore the mine Dr Hector and his party found that the roof had fallen in about 80 feet from the mouth. Beyond this it was not deemed safe to proceed. The first 50 feet is timbered. The props are a little too thin, but otherwise the drive looks perfectly safe. After spending some time upon the workings, Dr Hector proceeded along the beach to examine another seam at some distance towards Puysegur Point.

Early in the afternoon, the party returned in the boat, keeping along the north or mainland beach of the channel. The beaches on this side are more accessible than those of Coal Island ; still, they are far from being level. They landed at one bight which led into a most extraordinary looking cave. The mouth of the caye — a most capacious one — was divided in the centre by a rock, which had all the appearance of a massive pillar, elaborately carved at the top, so as to give the cave an appearance resembling that of the doorway of a cathedra L It had evidently been used as a resort for sealing parties, and a few mementos of their presence, in the shape of stones and shells, were carried away. At an early hour of the evening, the parties returned to the steamer, where the remainder of the evening was agreeably spent recounting their adventures, and examining the various acquisitions brought away.