A MONTH N FIJI.

Otago Witness, Issue 878, 26 September 1868, Page 6

A MONTH N FIJI.

(by a regent visitob.)

Left Mr Payne's during the forenoon. The course of the river now became very circuitous, and it required a pull of six or seven miles to get to the plantation of the Messrs Smith, who had kindly invited us to spend a few days with them. They hold some 2000 acres, of which nearly a- hundred are planted with cotton in various stages of growth, blossoming beautifully, and with a few experimental acres of Sea Island looking equally well. The cotton had been planted at various times between the previous September and February, the latter being the month in which the Sea Island, coming so much earlier to maturity, was put in. The long rows of trees bright with blossom, and the clear well-weeded avenues between them, make a cotton plantation a very pretty and promising sight. When the pods have burst and the trees are white with cotton, the sight is 'still prettier to the planter's eye. Fine dry picking weather and the labor wherewithal to pick, are then his constant prayer. Of the two, the weather is far the more to be relied upon — the labor is a sore subject which will require boldly facing before long, if the rich resources of the country are to be properly developed. At present, cultivation is of the rudest kind. The bush being cut down and burnt, sticks are placed at proper intervals to indicate where the seeds are to be planted, and the men set to work with knive3 14 or 16 inches long. With these they scrape a small hole in the surface and deposit the seed. The planting is then complete. Fourteen feet by ten is the space generally allowed for each tree of the singleseed or kidney kind. The Sea Island being a smaller)bushis planted much more closely. In each case one of the chief objects is to keep the trees or bush sufficiently close to cover the ground, and thus check the growth of weeds in the rows. Between the plants and rows, the ground remains untouched, and the weeding is confined to constant surface cutting, leaving the roots intact. This system is applied only to bush land. In open country, of which a great deal has of late been purchased from the natives, the plough is used, and from the natureof the climate can be worked with little interruption throughout the year. The introduction of the plough is so recent that I could get little reliable information as to the profit attending its use. It \ undoubtedly works both better and faster, but as the extent of planting is always limited by the power of picking, and as the labor for this is very uncertain, many of the settlers prefer the rough system of bush planting to the outlay on horses and necessary implements. On the Rewa River, there is little doubt that an improved system must be adopted in the event of a very probable rise in the present low price of labor, for which extending settlement is already creating a much greater demand. As to the time when cotton, once planed, may be left standing, there are various opinions. Some consider that it does not require renewing for several years ; others that the quality after the first year is not so good ; and one experienced planter told me he was inclined to think that eventually Sea Island would be found most profitable when planted annually. The same gentleman, -who has a plantation favorably situated and one of the largest in i the group, makes it a practice al- i ready to renew every two years with Sea Island cotton. Other 3 point to kidney j or single seed, in isolated cases, five or six years "old and still in fair bearing. At Mr Smith's we spent one very wet and a couple of very pleasant days visiting the different plantations in the neighbourhood. In all, the mode of working was the same, while the absence _of stock or stables puts rural life in Fiji in striking contrast with that of New Zealand or Australia. Here and there a few cows are kept for milking, but goats are generally used for that purpose. The cows look remarkably well. Sheep thrive only on the open gras3 lands and in situations J ■where the food is less rank than on the ] Rewa. Maize is cultivated, but only as an article of diet. It is saidi to yield 170 bushels to the_ acre— a tremendous estimate, which _ one must take leave to accept with consider' able doubt. Be the yield what it may, there are three crops taken during the year, and with improved cultivation maize will probably figure largely as a product. Tobacco is aho grown and smoked by white settlers as well as by j matives. The leaves are roughly dried' and made into very pleasant cigarettesprepared banana leaf beins? used as a substitute for the usual wrapping paper. The natives grow considerable quantities of this tobacco, but sell it as soon as picked and are for a greater portion of the year compelled to worker their own supply, which is generally native grown, though sometimes imported, At #U9 season

of the year the country grown tobacco was scarce and worth a shilling per Ib. Curiously enough the price of tobacco was always quoted to me in English currency, while most other articles — cotton especially — are quoted in cents — of which 100 make the dollar, equal to four shillings of our money. Not less curious is the multitude of foreign coins in circulation, and the arbitrary value placed upon them — regulated apparently by size rather than by intrinsic bullion worth. Thus the franc passes for a shilling, and the 5 franc piece for a dollar, while all dollars, be they American, Mexican or Spanish pillar, are alike. The price of cotton in Levuka, at the time of, which 1 am ■writing, was 3 cents for kidney or single seed, and 6 cents for Sea Island. In ginning cotton, it requires, in round numbers, 41b. to give lib. of clean kidney, and 31bs. for one of clean single seed or Sea Island. The charge for " saw" ginning and baling is 1 cent, per Ib., and the freight and charges of shipping via Sydney, and selling in Liverpool, are estimated at 3|d. At the prices above quoted the clean cotton to cover cost and charges, should sell at llf d for kidney, 9f d for single seed, and 14£ d for Sea Island. Now, in Liverpool, the prices quoted by the Economist on 7th June, were, for Brazilian (kidney) lid to Is 2d, Egyptian (single seed) 8d to Is 6d, Sea Island Is lid to 2s Bd, and the finer kinds 5s 6d per Ib. Tahitian cotton, which must be very much in quality like the greater part of that grown in Fiji, is quoted in the same paper at Is 6d to 3s 2d. I give these figures space to show how indefinite all calculations as to the future value of the cotton crop mußtbe. The indiscriminate manner in which different qualities are packed in the same bale is sufficient of itself to render such calculation impossible, while the use of the saw gin, which tears the fibre of the longstapled qualities, is said to greatly depreciate their value. The knife, or roller gin, used in other countries for this purpose, is much slower in action, and therefore more expensive, but will doubtless be considered indispensable when the present rough modes of preparing for market and of cultivation pass away.

It is encouraging to think how much room there is for improvements likely to counteract the difficulties whicl^would result from any large advance on the present low price of labor ; but I hope that those who are uninterested or dislike dry calculations have skipped the last few paragraphs. My excuse must be the object with which my visit was undertaken — not for amusement — but to make enquiry into the prospects which the country held out of profitable settlement. It would be more pleasant to describe the glorious scenery, the noble river and the rich luxuriant vegetation, but a hard necessity compels me to turn aside from the beauties of nature, and to ask myself the very matter of fact question — will it pay ? As an important consideration from that point of view, let us take a glance at the labour, which, next to the native, is the most important question in Fiji. It must be at onceunderstood, that European labour isnotto be thought of. The superior strength and energy of white men are wasted when the competition with their colored brethren is merely as to who can best scrape a hole in the ground and drop a few seeds therein. Nor does the peculiar kind of field labor offer any opportunity for superior skill, while white men could not live with the food, clothing, and wages which make a native comparatively comfortable and wealthy. Of colored labor there are three distinct kinds — Ist, the Fijimen, who make capital bushmen, and are the best in the island at clearing land, while the women and children are very good at cotton picking and similar light work ; 2nd, the Rotomah men, from the island of that name, who have more "savoir faire," are excellent sailors or boatmen, dress in European clothes, have long straight hair and almond eyes, seem to know nothing of the slavery in which the mass of Fijimen live, talk to the chiefs as equals, and altogether in appearance and manner very much resemble the Maoris. 3rd. The natives imported from Tanna and other New Hebrides Islands, or from islands near the Line. Now, the Fijimen are not to be relied upon. They work when they like and leave it alone when they don't. They are brought up in a condition of unmitigated slavery, and have all the vices of slaves. There is the additional inconvenience, that if one offend a chief and become " tabued," no Fijii men dare work for him. Their pay, when they do work, is from Is 6d to 2s per week, payable in prints or other trade ; they finding themselves in food. Frequently the work is done by piece or contract in dealing with them. The Rotomah men, on the other hand, rather despise field labour, but will work in boats or stores at prices ranging from 203 per month. The Fiji half-castes are j a separate class — skilful boatmen — and I generally earn L3to IA per month, As

labourers they are. not -to be thought of, and, like the white rtten, being ffee, move among the Fiji chiefs without servility or any sign of inferiority. It is the .imported labourers ■who form the settlers chief reliance, and in obtaining them is his principal cash outlay, as it is necessary to pay their passages — at present 90s each. The ordinary course is to arrange for the passage with, some captain who "understands these people, and leave him to make arrangements as to wages, which are now from 50s to 60s per annum. The labourers so obtained are under contract for three years. At the end of the time they are paid in trade and money, and have free passages back. The Consul keeps a register of all imported labour, and sees that the contracts entered into are properly performed and the men returned to their homes in due course. Some time since, a vessel came to Levuka loaded' with these Natives, and the Captain offered to let them out to thoße planters who would pay him the largest Bum for passage - money. To guard against this in future, the Consul refuses to give sailing letters until the Captain ■produces an agreement with planters to take a certain number at a fixed rate of passage-money. The men are welltreated by the planters, better fed and better cared for than in their own country, and go back comparatively rich at the end of their time. They speak — or try to speak — English, and have little sympathy and less association with the Fiji people. Of late it has been the practice to bring with them a proportion of women, and some of the planters who employ these people purpose having them taught as much as they can during the short time they have them on their plantations. When this is done, there can be no doubt a great civilising process, benei ficial to both sides, will have been begun and the labourers returning home be the means of gradually enlightening their countrymen. Hitherto there has been no difficulty in getting imported men, but as the demand for labour increases, it is doubtful how far the population available will be sufficient for its supply. A difficulty — technical perhaps, but practically serious — consists in the inability of the Consul at Levuka to give sailing orders for vessels proceeding beyond his jurisdiction. This narrows materially the field from -which labour can be obtained, but it is hard to believe such an obstacle will not be easily overcome by agreement between the Consuls concerned. Without a Bailing letter the vessel carrying natives is, if a man-of-war meet her, liable to seizure and the captain to heavy penalties under the Passenger Act of the Imperial Parliament. No doubt, Chinese or Indian Coolies will also be required|hereaf ter. Their passage money will be heavier and food more costly, and their respective Governments are not likely to agree to emigration until there be some recognised Government or authority on whom they can rely to see immigrants properly treated. Herein rests the chicf — I had almost said the only serious — difficulty which, even when the natives are friendly, must be faced by all new arrivals in Fiji. They can do nothing without labour, and any hasty, rapid in dux of intending planters before the country is prepared for them will not be successful. "With labour anything can be done, but without it, nothing. Intending settlers should never lose sight of this, and will do well to take, in all cases, a preliminary trip ; and see their way before abandoning the position and prospects which they may have at home. To those who settle among the natives — be they Christians or devils (as all who are not Christiana are called)— labour is generally available at very low rates. But it must not be forgotten that the labour of these people is not to be relied upon. They are children in caprice, and can only be looked to as a temporary help. It is on imported labour — and on that only — that the welfare of Fiji, and of those who settle in it as planters, will in all human pro-! bability depend. It must take many years, under the most favourable circumstances, before the habits engendered in the Fijian by ages of abject slavery are overcome, and meanwhile their number is decreasing so rapidly that they will then be a far less important element for consideration. The cause of this decrease 1 cannot pretend to give, but the proof is to be seen in ruined towns, and in the comparative absence of young children everywhere. The Consul, in his report for 1867, instances the island of Ovalau, which " a very few years ago could send, out 3000 fighting men, and can now only muster 500, by including the lads and old men." The same autho» rity states that at Tad— a town in Ovalau — the deaths during the year were 41, while the births and deaths of children were equal, being in each case 7. # At Losi, another town of Bau, the births were only 7, of which 4 died, while the total deaths during the year were 27. At Ba, on the ' northwest coast of Viti Levu, there were 60 deaths, and no births during the

year. There is no marked diseasejta account for this strange decrease in the | population, and one hears theories of all kinds, but they are pure theories, varying with the fancy of each man who forms them. The present' population of the whole group is estimated at 100,000, but this, as in the early estimates of the Maori and other Native populations, is probably in excess of the real number. I have now given the information which the short time at my disposal enabled me to pick up on the Rewa. The Banshee meanwhile was lying at Levuka, and we had arranged with the captain to be back by Wednesday, and proceed in her to Nadroga, a new district on Viti Levu, only just opened for sale. We had managed to see the Rewa to the junction of the Waidina, about 40 miles from the mouth, where it is still 200 to 250 yards broad. We should gladly have gonehigher, I but feared missing the Banshee, and dei cided on returning to Levuka. 22nd June. — Called at Capt. Morton's in going down the river, and spent a pleasant day at his plantation. Cotton — about 80 acres — looking remarkably well, and Sea Island promising a good return. Heard to our chagrin here and at Morrell's, that by the latest news from Levuka the Banshee wa3 to have sailed on the previous Saturday for Nadroga. Our plans were thus entirely deranged, and although we afterwards found that the schooner did not actually leave till the following Thursday, our missing her waa so far a gain, that we saw more both of natives and country than would otherwise have been possible. Accepting seats, kindly offered to us by Mr T. Morton, ■who was going to Bau and thence to his plantation at WaiMoro on the Tai Levu coast, we started after dusk, and arrived about midnight at Ratu Timothy's town, built at the junction of the Wai Manou with the Rewa. With us was a Bau chief, Batu Jonah, who had charge of Mr Morton's boat. The people of the town were apparently asleep, with the exception of one native policeman, and it was with difficulty we roused some of them up, and got lights in the strangers' Bure — a large house provided in all Fiji towns for the accommodation of travellers. Here we were joined by Eatu Timothy, GovernorGeneral of the Rewa district, a great man in rank, and greater, if possible, in size and figure. He is the " Vasururu," who figures as a handsome frontispiece in Seeman's "Mission to Viti." When young, and, I presume from the name, not yet & Christian, Vasururu (better known among the settlers by another of his heathen names, " TJliwap"). captivated the tender fancy of Adi Kuila, one of Cako Bau's favourite daughters. But TtLiwap was only a small Rewa chief — his acres were neither rich nor broad, and the prudent parents declined to countenance his addresses. An elopement was the result, and for years Cako Bau declined holding communication with his "wilful daughter. In the course of events the obdurate father found himself master by conquest, of the Lower Rewa, and casting about for a Governor of the district, his heart appears to have relented. At all events he determined that so valuable a bit of preferment should not be thrown away or go out of the family. A reconciliation waa effected and Ratu Timothy appointed to the office. In Seeman's day Ratu Timothy was a tall, thin, and decidedly good looking young man. Like most of the native chiefs, he has with age gro*vn much stouter, but take him altogether, is as fine a specimen of humanity as one could often meet, Yet somehow or.other, Ratu Timothy, whose face and manner are to a stranger so prepossessing, is not liked by the settlers. They say he is fickle and his Aford not to be trusted, but of his wife Adi Kuila (anglice Lady Mag), one hears nothing but good on every side. In the Bure we were provided with mosquito curtains and soft mats, and enjoyed a comfortable night's rest.

23rd June. — Up at 6, and looked over the Native town. The houses are built very close to each other, with some apipearance of order but without regular I streets. Absence of dirt and of fonl scents were characteristic of thi3 and of all the towns we afterwards visited, and in so far, they are by no means behind towns of a similar size in more civilized communities. This is the more remarkable, as the Natives are great fish eaters, and it must require constant care to keep the offal from becoming a nuisance in so warm a climate. But, stop ! I must take exception in this respect to one scent to which not even the least fastidious can become accustomed. The bread fruit is a valuable article of food, but being only for a few months in season, has to be preserved. For that purpose it is buried in pits until decayed" and well fermented. The pitß are then opened, and the mass made into small cakes, which are considered a very wholesome article of food, especially for children. Thesmell, whenthesepxts are opened, isdetestable, and once experienced, it requires considerable nerve to taste the cakes, which look like rye biscuits, and — done

tip in plaintain leaves— are generally to be seen hanging in bunches from the rafters of every native house. T met many white men who could drink the "yagonaorkava," which is said to taste like soap suds, slightly flavored with rhubarb and jalaap,* but never one who could face the " mandrai" or native bread. When fresh picked and roasted, the bread fruit is insipid, but not disagreeable.to the laste, although much below the idea one forms of it from reading and tradition. At half-past seven the people were assembled in the Bure by beat of drum to prayers. The drum or "lali" is made of the hollowed half of a thick treetrunk — is in appearance not unlike a deep pig trough with rounded bottom, and produces loud sounds when the edges are beat with sticks. At prayers, the behaviour of all present was exemplary. One could not look at the kneeling dusky forms with heads bent reverently to the ground, without feeling that, if only in changing old customs and giving a new and higher direction to the devotional instincts common to all mankind, the time and labour of the Missionaries had certainly not been lost. The service was Wesleyan, and the prayers apparently extempore and fervent After prayers, breakfast was served. Yams and very fine crabs, thoroughly cooked, were not to be despised; while the tea was excellent. The natives do not like tea, and seldom use it. Instead of it, I am sorry to say that we afterwards found among too many of them an intense thirst for spirits, which they drink in tumblers, taking a sip of water after each glass. Half a dozen chiefs sitting down to a case of gin, seem to consider it de rigueur not to move till the case is empty, and then lapse into a state of sleepiness very different to the noisy drunkenness of their more civilised brethren. When thrown among them, it often struck me that they looked with scarce* concealed contempt at the mild manner in whinh white men take their grog ; but probably the white men from whom they got their first drinking lessons had stronger stomachs than those with whom they have of late been brought into contact. In eating, their practice is to squat (in tailor style), and to use fingers in preference to knives and forks, but for us as strangers, Ratu Timothy considerately provided chairs, knives and forks, and a very handsome breakfast service of green and gold, with a large china bowl as, a substitute for finger glasses after the meaL The Governor-General took a great fancy to a small indiarubber self- j closing tobacco pouch which I used, and expressed a strong desire to have it. I left the pouch with him as a present, and a few weeks after, when again visiting the Rewa, heard that Adi Kuila was using it as a portemonnaie, and seemed remarkably proud of her new acquisition.

24th June. — After breakfast proceeded down the riyer, and again through the Nakello branch to Bau — the native metropolis and seat of Government in Fiji, or, at all events, of that portion of it which pays allegiance to King Cako Bau. We arrived at 8 in the evening, and slept in a fine large house belonging to Ratu Abel, who had not yet returned from his mission to Tui Cakau. Bau is a small island, less than a mile in circximference and a couple of miles from the main land of Viti Levu, from which it is separated by a coral patch, dry at low tide. The population is estimated at 1500, all natives, and with the exception of the central hill, the rest of the little island has been reclaimed by manual labor from the sea. Thickly covered with houses, and without gardens, Bau is, I should imagine, one of the least agreeable places as a residence in Fiji. A few years ago it was noted for the extent to which cannibalism was carried on, being then, as now, mainly occupied by chiefs to whom this luxury, under ordinary circumBtances, was confined. It abounds in traditions, and has occupied a conspicuous place in Fijian history. From its position it is impregnable to native assault, and for some generations the chiefs of Bau have been the terror of adjacent islands, and their large war canoes the rulers of Fijian seas. Its head chiefs have always been the most powerful in the group, and this applies to their present representative, Cako Bau, lately called King, but better known by his old Bau title of Vu ni Valu, or, Root of "War. 3?or along while the Missionaries were refused access to this island, and when admitted, cannibalism and other atrocities were openly and defiantly practised before them. The Rev. Mr Waterhouse has lately published a very interesting book, under the title of " The King and People of Fiji." In it he describes his long experience in Bau, and gives a very full account of the Vu ni Valu's conversion to Christianity. He tells us that Cako Bau about nine years ago was one of the most bigoted of heathens, and by a series of bold, unscrupulous, and ruthless measures, had gained great power and made his name dreaded wherever his

war canoes could go or his cunning entrap his enemies. But trouble came upon the Vu ni Valu. He was ambitious to own a couple of schooners, and undertook to pay for them in heche de mer. The schooners came, but the oppressive labour imposed upon his subjects to pay for them was the last straw added to their already too numerous burdens, making them heavier than they could bear. Secret discontent was followed by open insurrection, and his power was fast fading away. To add to his troubles, Cako Bau had quarrelled with the white men at Levuka, and found his supplies of ammunition stopped. For a long time his heart continued obdurate, but under the influence of continued trouble, appeared to soften at last. Mr Waterhouse tells us the several stages of his conversion at some length, and how the final blow was struck by Mr Williams, the U.S. Consul. Being in Melbourne on a visit,' the Consul took the opportunity of denouncing in the papers there, the atrocities practised at Bau, and wound up by an earnest hope that America and England would unite to put them down. In that case he would undertake with a single man-of-war, to destroy Bau from the face of the earth as easily and as quickly "as one could smoke a cigar." There is no doubt that Bau — so strong in the native eye — is wonderfully open to a man-of-war, and Cako Bau's heart appears to have been still further softened when the letter of Consul Williams was read to him. Evidently, however, Mr Waterhouse and Mr Williams had not in their day pulled very well together, for the reverend gentleman sarcastically observes that the Consul, when writing his formidable epistle, little thought how well he was playing the part of a poor missionary, and how large a share his letter had in the final conversion of Cako Bau. The Vu ni Valu having once made up his mind, is not a man to do things by halves, and when he decided to leave his old ways, did so thoroughly. He has since been a regular attendant at Christian worship, and his great influence has been used to give consistent and strong support to the missionaries in their earnest efforts to convert his people. He is, however, an elderly man, and his education was completely Fijian. At the age of five, (he was then called Seru) one of the captured slaves, as Mr Waterhouse relates, was brought in after a fight and held down until the boy king had clubbed him to death. An education of this sort may probably, as it was intended, harden the nerves, but is certainly not calculated to form a character such as white men usually look on with respect. We are bound to hope that Cako Bau's conversion is as thorough and sincere as it was important ; but white men say his character is too hard, and his views are too decidedly Fijian still, to make him a favorite with them. This is, politically speaking, a great misfortune, as it deprives him of much of the support he would otherwise get to consolidate his position and to strengthen his hands in maintaining order throughout the country. He has sons brought up under better influences — fine, bold, and apparently kindly young men. It will be a happy thing for both races in Fiji, if hereafter these sons are enabled to maintain with the white men the friendly relations so necesssary for the peace and progress of the country. Cako Bau is himself very temperate, and it is to be hoped his sons will be saved from the bitter curse of gin, for which, as I have before observed, so many of the chiefs — quitting their own simple and comparatively harmlessyaquona — have acquired an insatiable thirst. The chances, however, are sadly against them in the absence of t intellectual amusement inseparable from 'ignorance of any but their own language — an ignorance which locks up from their use the literature of the civilized world. If this could be overcome a great problem woiild be solved, and religious teaching be rendered far more effective than, one cannot but fear, it is likely to be while unaided by the worldly knowledge necessary to enable them to occupy their abundant idle time — at present devoted to the game of draughts, which they play with extraordinary quickness and skiU. It is unfortunate too, that they as well as Cako Bau, are, from the peculiar position of the island in which they I live, deprived of that intercourse with the whites which would be calculated to promote a good understanding, and to induce them more readily to adopt what there is of good in the white man's habits and mode of life.

So much for the chiefs of Bau. The place itself is full of interest to visitors. Close to the Church there is the mound on which the old heathen temple used to stand. The large stone on which the human victims were killed is still in its place, and near it an old tree, -marked with innumerable notches, each notch being said to represent a slaughtered man. The Church is a large native building, 100 feet by 40, and about 50 feet

high. The Court-house and Bure near it are longer, narrower, and not quite so high. There is a battery, too, of five old ship's carronades of different sizes. Each cammade is placed between two flag-stones about three niches thick, stood on end to form the embrasures ; but there are no signs of shot or magazine, nor could I ascertain when the guns were laat discharged. At 10 a. m. called on the Rev. Mr Tait, the Wesleyan Missionary stationed at Bau, whose house is built on the crest of the hill. While there, Cako Bau came up, attended by a bodyguard of two. At one time, he mast have been a very active and athletic man. He is now about 60 years old, over 6ft. in height, tall and erect, and with a countenance indicating intelligence and force of character of no ordinary kind. A hard eye and rigid mouth somewhat spoil a face which would otherwise, from the regularity of the features, be decidedly handI some. In complexion, Cako Bau is much darker than the Bau chiefs generally, who are copper-coloured and not black. His carriage is dignified, and in despite of the simplicity of his dress, which consisted only of a large shawl wrapped round him fromthe waist, his appearance •would be striking to the most cursory observer. On being introduced to him and learning we were from New Zealand, his first questions were how many Maoris were left, and how the war was going on 1 Among other things, I mentioned the confiscation of the five millions of acres of native land, so that the Maoris, as they would have war, might be made to pay for it. As the whole extent of the Fiji_ group is not more than five millions of acres, and as the chief is probably under the impression that they are the largest islands in the world, he had at first some difficulty in understanding what I said, and Mr Tait. who kindly interpreted, had to repeat it several times. I afterwards took the opportunity of also telling him that the white men had no desire whatever to quarrel with the Maoris, and had just given them an opportunity of taking part in making the laws of the country by sending four members to the Assembly. The chief seemed surprised at this and asked if I dirl not think he would do well for one ; from which I inferred — perhaps wrongly — that he doubted the fact, but was too polite to say so. Afterwards met the chief at dinner, where he used his knife and fork with an ease which showed that, in this respect at all events, the white man's habiis were not strange or new to him. In the afternoon, we went to his house — a large native building 60ft. by 30ft. — during the erection of which, we were told, an enemy was killed as each post was put into the ground. The decorations were peculiar. Against one post hung a double-barrelled f owling-pieceand naval officer's sword. On the only table lay a large Bible, another sword, a revolver in a holster, a glass candlestick and a stereoscope ; while, in the corner, stood a large broken mirror frame, evidently forming at one time part of the furniture of a ship's saloon, and strongly suggestive of the wrecking weaknesses for which Fiji men were formerly too well known. Art was represented by likenesses of the Princess Royal of England and King George of Hanover, by a few highly colored daubs of ships, andby other smaller pictures. Our next visit was to the Queen, who was graciously dressed in a sheet of calico, and received us sitting on her bed of mats, having apparently just risen from her afternoon's siesta. " Marama," or madatne fas all Fiji ladies are styled) is now very fat, and though not fair, certainly 40. Her face is handsome and pleasing, and indicates a temper and disposition so exactly opposite to that of her liege lord that one can readily understand the influence — always exercised for good — which she has maintained over him. As Divine service is held daily at Bau, we attended at half -past five. The church was without furniture, with the exception of a small enclosed space round the pulpit fitted with seats, and just outside of which an arm-chair was placed for the King. Sixty men were soon assembled on one side of the church, and about 70 women on the other. Then entered the King with his two body guards. His Majesty had changed the shawl for a " sulu" of tappa or native cloth. Cako Bau's gait is at all times stately in spite of an old wound which has withered his left leg, and the eyes of the congregation were lowered respectfully as he walked through them to his arm-chair. After kneeling and devoutly praying, the King took his seat, put on a pair of spectacles, and deliberately untying a cotton pocket-hand-kerchief, took from it a large and well-used Bible and hymn-book. 1 mention these details, trivial as they may seem, because I really see no other way of giving a clear idea of things and people in Fiji. In a country where Governor-Generals do not think it derogatory to ask for your tobacco-pouch — where a King's full dress on going to church consists of a fathom of tappa and

a pair of spectacles, and where a Kings son may be seen (as I saw a bright hanc? some boy of Cako Bau's on the beach at Levuka) with an old glove on the right hand and' an old castaway boot on his left foot, amusing himself and the half dozen obsequious attendants whom he always has about him — the unavoidable use of words and title 3 similar to those current among ourselves is likely to create fake impressions, which I am very anxious to avoid.. Let me, however, guard against error in the opposite direction, for although, in their surroundings, these dignitaries are not like kings and governors with us, they are courteous and dignified, proud of birth, rigid observers "of etiquette, and have, in their own way, abundant self respect. On the surface, things appear incongruous enough, but look deeper, and there is undoubtedly in many of these chiefs, a gentleman "in the ore." How the metal is to be extracted without their having access to wider fields of information than their own language can give, is a great and grave question not to be lightly approached by any man. Of the congregation, I can only say they were attentive and devout. The preacher was a native, and his sermon, as I was afterwards informed, a farewell address prior to his removal to another district. Both prayers and sermon were highly effective, if one might judge by the frequent ejaculation of " Dma, dma" (true, true), and similar signs of approval from members of the congregation during the service. From the church, went to what must I suppose be called the dock yard. Saw there two large war canoes undergoing repair. These war canoes are wonders of construction, or while capable of carrying on their deck a couple of hundred men, not a nail or vestige of iron is to be seen about them. The fastenings are all of sinnet, and the holes through which it is drawn, plugged with wood, while the interstices are filled with a gum obtained from the breadfruit tree, fast being superseded, however, by pitch and tar. War canoes are always double, that is to say, two of different lengths are united by a strong deck thrown across the centre. On the deck, picture a house and round the house a gallery, and the reader will have a fair idea of the appearance of a war canoe in dock. Of its appearance at sea, I have already spoken. In heathen times the launching of one of these canoes was an affair of great and peculiar state. Enemies taken in battle, or, in their absence, slaves, were. laid down as "ways" for the launch, and crushed to death in its honor. This and many other atrocities, the Missionaries may justly be proud of having abolished, for they had from long habit become part of the every day life of Fiji, and were warmly cherished as good old customs by the conservatives of the country, of whom Cako Bau was for many years the acknowledged head. From the dockyard went to the house of Ratu Ranbaka — brother of the Vu ni Valu — where we had fresh fish, pork, and yams, good and •well-cooked— then again to Ratu Abel's house — played draughts with one of the chiefs, got beaten, and watched them afterwards playing till late at night.

A short time ago 'the lost children of Daylesf ord ' was a standing topic of conversation, in the Victorian bush. The G-eelong Advertiser relates two incidents of a touching nature which forcibly recall the pathetic story of Daylesf ord :—ln: — In the month of June last, a child of about two years of age, son of George Brown, living on the Fryingpan Creek, was lost in the bush . The mother of the child went into the bush, to get an armful of wood, leaving the little fellow sitting on a log outside the house, dha returned in a few minutes, but the child had gone, and the search made by the parents and neighbours, extending over several days, was unavailing to discover any trace of the missing one. On Sunday last, two lads were shepherding in the neighborhood, and i found some human bones and portions of child's clothing, which they took to the I mother, who at once identified them as having been worn by the child she had lost, of which doubtless the bones were the remains. Another case of a lost child— the third which occurred in that neighborhood within a few days— is reported from Woolsthorpe as having occurred on Friday last in Wickham's scrub. The child of a free selector was missed from his home, having been last seen going riding on a stick towards the gate. Search was made, and was maintained in spite of the wet and cold weather till a late hour at night, and waß resumed next morniag early by a large party of horsemen. In tlie course of the day it was ascertained that the child had been found on the previous night. It appears that John Stuart, a kangaroo hunter, went into a paddock on the Mne Mile Creek on Friday night, just beford dark, and was attracted to a Bpot by his greyhcund. The child was there crouched down in tho wet — his little lips blue with the cold, and his teeth chattering in his head. The kind hunter carried him to some female friends ; but the only answer they could get out of the young explorer to any question they put was, "I'm a good boy."