Edwardian Stoles and Empire Waist-lines In New Collections

Otago Daily Times, Issue 27039, 25 March 1949, Page 2

Edwardian Stoles and Empire Waist-lines In New Collections

NOTES FOR WOMEN

Spring fashions, which will undoubtedly influence autumn styles in this part of the world, are now having their pre-view in London showrooms, and have come full circle in more ways than one. In addition to the revival of Edwardian stoles, Victorian bustles and Empire waistlines, there is a literal circular trend in the new skirts shown in the Dorville spring collection.

Trim at waist and hips, such skirts flare and flute out at the hem. Sometimes fullness is drawn to the back, to hang in graceful folds. At others it is stressed by means of tucks and deep frills round or above the hem, or by contrasting frills underneath it Sometimes the whole skirt is sunray pleated. Although tailored suits, the standby of most wardrobes, often retain traditional classical lines, variety is brought to a pale blue woollen Dorville suit

by means of a deep fringed shawl collar and a fringed hem on the jacket. Another suit, also in the Dorville collection, has a skirt with a detached, swinging back panel and a jacket with looped ends caught up across the back in a bustle effect. For all-day summer wear, Dorville show simple suits in sprigged cottons and pastel rayons, with brief-waisted jackets. Their circular skirts form a

Left: Twisted cotton dress featur ing the new Empire waist-line —from the Dorville Spring collections. Above: Cotton tartan dinner dress by Dorville. The neck is outlined with a trimming of broderie Anglaise. change from last year’s gathered ballerina ones. Very fine tartan cotton is used for new Dorville dresses for day and evening. An evening dress in Black Watch tartan has a full gathered skirt and a pleated, short-sleeved bodice' trimmed with broderie anglaise at the neck. A day-time dress by Dorville in red tartan is also full-skirted, but with a fitted hipline, from which fans of pleats spring out. It is accompanied by matching tartan spats. Polka dots and small patterned cotton and rayon are used for Dorville summer dresses, nearly all of which combine full skirts with neat tailored tops. Wide collars, fluted and darted to give interest, or falling in soft folds across the corsage, alternate with narrow shawl ones. Pointed, turnback cuffs are a new feature. Swathed waistbands give the fitted corselet effect An outstanding Dorville model in black marcella shows the new straight tube look, and has an accompanying tiny bolero with full flaring back. Printed cotton evening dress has winged cuffs on the short sleeves and a wide winged collar on the back decolletage. Sweaters in the new Dorville collection feature batwing sleeves, corselet waists, and are often hiplength. Off-the-shoulder evening sweaters are made in finest Angora, with drawstring top.