THE GARDEN

Otago Daily Times, Issue 26274, 4 October 1946, Page 9

THE GARDEN

Contributed by D. TANNOCK, A.H.R.H.B.

I am afraid that in some cases rock gardens have been neglected during the war years owing to the owner being overseas or in the Home Guard, the lack of competent assistance, or the need for extra attention being given to the production of fruit and vegetables. Where couch grass and convolvolus have taken possession, or the more rampant kinds have overgrown and destroyed the choicer kinds, the best remedy will be to take the structure to pieces, remove the weed-in-fested soil, and start again with new and clean soil. There is no more astisfactory method of using a bank than by constructing a rock garden or a rock wall, either of which is far more interesting and less labour than a grass terrace, which requires constant mowing and is never anything but a grassy bank. In a rock garden it is possible to grow a larger number and a greater variety of plants iq a small space than in any other way, and by planting a comprehensive collection there will be something in flower throughout the year. Spring is the chief season in the rock garden, and in addition to the usual kinefs of plants such as aubretias, arabis, alyssum, dianthus, saxifrages and primulas, there are a great many other interesting and beautiful plants, both exotic and native, in flower at that time. It is true that there are a great number of rock gardens planted with hardy herbaceous perennials and annuals, which could be grown quite as successfully in a border. This is not necessary, for there are plenty of the dwarf alpines available, and once obtained they can be -increased quite easily. The present is not the time to construct a new rock garden, or to overhaul an old one, but by visiting a nursery where suitable rock garden plants are cultivated or a good rock garden itself, notes can be made of the most attractive plants with a view to obtaining them at the right season. There is, however, much interesting and useful work to be done. Weeds have to be kept down and as soon as the various plants go past, unless it is intended to collect seed, they should be cut over. The more aggressive kinds have to be prevented from encroaching on the pockets of the more select kinds and smothering them. The soil, where exposed, has to be kept stirred with the hand fork,-and during dry weather, watering and spraying has to be carried cut for plants with such excellent drainage and so little soil soon suffer. In their native haunts when they are not enveloped in mist, it is usually raining. To maintain a rock garden it is necessary to have a small nursery in which plants are raised from seed or propagated by means of cuttings and division, and grown on in small pots plunged In a bed of ashes ready to replace anything which may die out during the summer. Mountain Plants Those who are interested in native plants will find the cultivation of the high mountain plants which appear above the bush line and extend to the limits of vegetation, most interesting. These plants are the real wild flowers of this country, and the sight of miles of celmisias, ranunculus, ourisias, dwarf veronicas, senecios and many other flowering plants is very impressive. A collection of the various species and varieties of celmisias alone would furnish a fair-sized rock garden. While many of the native alpines flourish in an ordinary rock garden, some of the more choice and more difficult to grow require scree conditions, but it is quite easy to have these conditions in the rock garden. There should be very little soil as the rooting medium is shingle of various sizes, with a little peat or leaf mould, but a water supply has to be provided underneath, and it Is also necessary to spray overhead on warm, sunny days. To those who have the strength and energy to climb up the mountains to a height of four thousand feet, and over, there is a great treat in sore when they get among the plants on the alpine meadows, and to bring away some of the plants and cultivate them at the lower levels is a never-ending source of interest. FORSYTHIA The genus Forsythia. which was named after William Forsyth, once superintendent of the Royal Gardens at South Kensington, is in various forms a feature of many gardens at the present time. F. suspensa “ Golden Bell ” is a deciduous shrub of a rambling habit which, if trained on a wall, will grow to a height of 30 feet. In the open, when unsupported, it forms a mass of interlacing, often pendulous branches, Bft to 10£t high. Its flowers, which are golden yellow, are produced mainly on last season’s wood. If cut back immediately after flowering in the spring, young healthy plants will make shoots 6ft to Bft long in a season, which the following spring are covered from end to end with golden yellow blossoms. F. viridissima is a partly-ever-green shrub with stiff, erect branches and bright yellow flowers. Although this species is nothing like as ornamental as F, suspensa, it is worthy of a place in the shrubbery. F. Europaea is a native of the Albanian mountains, and not very ornamental. F. intermedia, var. spectabilis, is the most suitable for growing as a bush in the shrubbery or as a lawn specimen. It is a hybrid between F. suspensa and F. viridissima, and has the erect growth of Viridissima and the freedom of flowering of suspensa, to which it is in no way inferior in beauty. In addition to the variety spectabilis, there is one densiflora. with flowers crowded on the shoots, and another Vitellina, which has a strong, erect habit and rich, dark yellow flowers. F. suspensa is suitable for growing on steep banks, and for using as a climber on walls over arches and pergolas. All the Forsythias can be grown from cuttings of young ripened wood planted ir. the autumn, or by means of suckers which some of the species and varieties produce freely. A bed of F. intermedia, var. spectabilis, on a lawn carpeted with Chionodoxa luvlllae, cilia siberica, or grape hyacinths heavenly blue, can be quite a feature in early spring. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS J. T. P., Hyde.—The end of October or the beginning of November is soon enough to plant tomatoes in the open. Unless you have a greenhouse and facilities for raising the plants from seed, -it is better to obtain plants from a nurseryman or a seedsman. When lifted from a box, they should be potted up into five or six-inch pots, using a soil composed of loam three parts, compost or leaf mould one part, coarse sand half a part, and a dusting of blood and bone manure. Place the potted plants in a cold frame, or failing this In a box with a sheet of glass on top. Keep the glass on for the first few days, shading the plants from strong sunlight, but gradually accustoming them to open-air conditions. Prepare the position for planting by digging in a liberal dressing of compost or well-rotted manure, some wood ashes and a dusting of bone meal or blood and bone manure. When the first bunch of flowers develop they can be planted out in a warm, sheltered position against a wall or fence, facing the north if possible. Shelter from cold winds with scrim, twiggy branches or old window sashes is necessary at first. Provide a stout stake to each plant, pinch out all side shoots from time to time, and tie them up as the plants develop. When they have set four or five bunches of fruit, pinch out the tip of the plants, for this is as many as you can reasonably expect to develop. Plenty of water is needed by the plants during dry weather, and they should be sprayed overhead in the evenines after a hot, sunny day and given liq’uid manure once a fortnight or a top-dressing of blood and bone, fish or mixed garden manure (a tea--spoonful to each plant). Kondine Red and Surprise are suitable varieties. J. C., Mosgiel.—l received a specimen of an Olearia hedge which showed signs of frosting. The condition is similar when there is too much water at the roots but as the winter was a comparatively dry one (up to last week), that is not likely to be the cause. The young growth will be all right. ■■ Interested Gardener,” Lawrence.— Lonicera nitlda would make a very suitable dividing hedge, but it is an evergreen. Cydonia japonlca in its many varieties would make an excellent dividing hedge and is much more suitable and more ‘decorative than the flowering current. You could still plant either the Cydonia or the Lonicera. Prunus Armenica, var. dawn, flowers on the previous season’s wood and any pruning should be In the nature of thinning the branches.