THE WATERCAN

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22718, 2 November 1935, Page 24

THE WATERCAN

HOW TO USE IT The important part which correct watering plays in the successful management of plants grown under glass can hardly be over-estimated. It has been truly said that the apprentice who has learned how to use the watering can correctly is well on the road to complete mastery of his work, at any rate in so far as greenhouse plants are concerned, for intelligent watering implies a more or less complete understanding of the ways of plants, their in dividual peculiarities and weaknesses. Rule of thumb methods may serve as a rough guide for the beginner, but if slavishly adhered to,- will always lead to trouble sooner or later. Perhaps the commonest error made by inexperienced gardeners is that of water too frequently, but in insufficient quantity. The result is deceptive and disastrous. A cursory examination of the soil in pots or boxes would lead one _to suppose that it was sufficiently moist, for the daily sprinklings will keep the surface wet. Yet actually water may never be supplied with enough freedom to wet the lower layers of compost at all, with the result that many of the most important roots are left bone dryPlants treated in this manner very soon fall into ill-health. First, growth becomes stunted and foliage thin. Later, the leaves show an abnormal liability to be scorched by strong sunlight, or to develop a covering of white mildew; while the final effect of persistent underwatering will be total collapse.

THE EVILS OF FAULTY WATERING Even plants such as cacti, which are well adapted by nature to withstand Jon;: periods of drought, and, in consequence, must be kept comparatively dry at certain seasons of the year, will suffer badly if given occasional sprinklings and no more. It can be stated as a general rule that,,

whenever greenhouse plants require watering, sufficient must be given to moisten the compost evenly throughout the depth of pot, box, or border. It will be an object-lesson of the greatest value to any beginner to place some dry soil in a sixinch flower pot, give it what appears to be a reasonable wetting from a watering pot filled with a fine rose, and then, after an interval of 15 minutes, to tip out all the soil, and examine the result of the watering. It is safe to assert that, in a majority of cases, the water will not have soaked anything like right through the compost. This suggests a second common cause of trouble, namely, the too frequent use of the rose or spray on the watering-pot. These attachments for spouting the water in a fine shower are useful enough when watering seed boxes, and may also be of service for the first three or four waterings of newly-potted plants, but they must never be used regularly for established plants. Even a coarse rose slows down the flow of water very considerably, and causes an exaggerated appearance of surface wetting, with the result that, unless the gardener has the time and patience to go over the pots several times, the plants are certain to go short. Once the compost in pots has settled down firmly, it can be watered quite satisfactorily direct from the spout of the watering can, providing this is held low down to the soil, and the can is not tipped so rapidly as to cause a very forceful gush of water.

WATERING IN THE GARDEN. Precisely similar remarks apply to the watering of outdoor plants. Even with newly-planted subjects, it is rarely wise to use a rose for long, a far better plan being to tie a piece of sacking loosely around the spout to spread the water a little without seriously impeding its rate of flow. With a little practice, the column of water from the spout can also be broken with the I'orehnger of the left hand—a method which will bo found of great service when large areas have tobe soaked, as, for example, tomato ami cucumber beds in the greenhouse. Choice pot plants must never be watered in the mass. Only by giving them individual attention can each be afforded just the right amount of water ihe careless gardener may think that he has sprayed an •• even quantity of water all over a batch of plants, but a closer examination is almost certain to reveal that some have received more and some less, according to their position and the amount of growth shielding the compost in the pots. Another objection to indiscriminate watering is that the foliage is hound to be heavily splashed, and this '.a definitely harmful to many Plants. Individual attention undoubtedly makes the task of watering more laborious, biu it is the only way of ensuring good results with valuable specimen plants. Jj,aeb pot must be tested before any water is given. There are several methods ot doing this. One of the quickest and most effective is to tap each pot with the leg bone of a chicken o, a small wooden hammer. If the pot gives a ringing note the compost within is dry, and must w watered freely, but, should the sound be dull and heavy no water is required, lhis system has but one drawback. It will no v work with cracked pots. Another simple method, though one calling for better judgment, is to mt the pot and weigh it. Wet soil weighs considerably more than dry, and a little experience will soon enable one to gauge the degree of moisture very accurate y. If the pots are clean mside and tne soil has been properly firmed, it is perfectly safe to tap an occasional plant from its pot to check results secured !>} other tests. Examine the base of the ball of soil with particular care, for with correct watering, this should always be a little wetter than the surface. A dry base means that water has not been supplied in sufficient quantity at each application. AN EMERGENCY MEASURE. Outdoor plants should only be watered in emergency. . In the ordinar- way they do not require any assistance of this kind, even after transplanting. A few surface hoeings will serve to keep in the natural (-oil moisture, and at the same time stimulate root action, whereas constant soakings will only chill the soil and slow down growth. However if a sudden spell of hot weather should set in just after plants have been disturbed it will be necessary to water them. The Dutch hoe should always be used a few hours later, or, perhaps, the following day if the soil keeps sticky, to prevent the surface from becoming washed down into a solid, airtight mass. Rain water is invariably to be preferred to tap water, particularly if the former has stood for some time in a tank exposed to exactly the same atmospheric conditions as the plant. This will ensure that its temperature is approximately the same as that of the soil, whereas tap water is often very much colder and inclined to cause a sudden check to growth. For this reason it is always an excellent plan to have a separate tank in each greenhouse, and a good-sized water butt outdoors to ensure suitable supplies. —Plantsman in Amateur Gardening.