SPECIMEN ONIONS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22422, 17 November 1934, Page 20

SPECIMEN ONIONS

Solid specimen onions can only be grown by paying careful attention to many details, and over a long period. Practically one year’s hard work is required, for, during the autumn of the previous year, deep trenching and manuring > are essential to put the ground in fit condition for so exacting a crop, i The seed is sown in boxes towards the beginning of the year, and the seedlings pricked out as soon as they are largo enough to be handled. Plant out about the first or second week in October. Plants so treated are now growing freely in the beds, and their roots have already penetrated to a good depth. By_ the end of February they must be induced' to penetrate at least 20 inches. To this end, the cultivator must make good use of the Dutch hoe twice each week, and so maintain a surface dust mulch about one inch in depth. Encourage the roots to permeate the soil in every direction, except towards the surface, until the end of January. The plants must never ou any account be allowed to suffer from drought, A surface mulch of rotted manure, applied early in January, will greatly reduce the labour in watering by conserving the moisture in the soil. The best time to apply- this surface mulch is directly after a good rain or a thorough soaking with the watering can. If well-rotted nianure cannot bo obtained, lawn mowings make a satisfactory substitute. Before laying on the mulch, bonomeal or steamed bone-flour should be dusted evenly over the rows at the rate of two ounces to the square yard. The manure should, of course, be kept just clear of the bulbs. In addition to other forms of feeding, it has been found beneficial to pour in liquid • manures through holes made between the rows IS inches, apart nine inches deep, with an iron rod or pointed stick. Pigeon, fowl, sheep, horse, and'cow manures can all be diluted in tubs to the required strength. Use weak and regularly. The bending over of the tops should be carefully done, and, above all, it must not be attempted too early in the season. If it is prematurely done the youngest

leaves—inside the stem —will be broken and the outer ones cracked across, with the result ‘that new and strong inside growth will begin, and the “necks” swell instead of becoming smaller. Bend all tops in one direction—namely, away Irom the sun. During the last month of growth the bulbs must be closely watched every day. No doubt many readers have seen and admired the clear amber-coloured skin of big specimena bearing prize cards at the autumn shows, and wondered how slich finish is obtained. Actually, it is quite a simple procedure. All surplus skin should be removed from the bulbs about one month prior to the dale ot harvesting. Press back, from the bulbs, the remaining surface -mulch material, then, with a wood label, scoop out the soil from the base of the bulb, practically down to the roots, but not actually baring the latter to light and air. _ Ihon remove the loose soil to a distance qt two inches from the bulbs, and place it in the centre of each row, where it will not be washed into the hole \again by fains. ' Finally, with great care strip olt all loose skin, even to showing a ,little pal6-coloured flesh underneath. There must be one unbroken layer of skin from neck to foot, and the one month’s_ exposure to light and sun will result in a rich amber-colourcd bulb. As soon as the bulb will part readily from the soil lift and store in airy sheds.—G. Q., in Amateur Gardening.