GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22368, 15 September 1934, Page 21

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS

The novice is inclined to think of the frame as a structure only to be used outdoors. This is far from being the case. Small frames are of great service inside the greenhouse as well as out. It is merely placed on the ordinary greenhouse staging over the hot-water pipes at the boiler end of the house. Without any further additions, such a frame will be found extremely serviceable for rooting many cuttings of young growth at this time of the year. ,If it is filled to within three or four inches of-the glass with coconut fibre or peat moss litter it will enable the beginner to strike many of the more difficult greenhouse plants which require bottom heat. This probably requires an explanation. It has been found that many tender plants, aud, in particular, those that make soft, succulent growth, root far more readily when the soil is at a higher temperature than the atmosphere. With this end in view the gardener constructs his propagating ease over the hot-water pipes in such a manner that the soil is warmed from below. In the particular case under consideration cuttings will actually be placed in pots, which are then plunged to their rims in the coconut fibre or-peat moss. The latter will convey the warmth from the pipes below to the soil in which the cuttings are forming roots. Though the structure of such portable frames may be quite light, it should be sufficiently strong and the wood seasoned enough to prevent warping and shrinking and consequent cracks between the boards. It is absolutely essential that the frame should be kept almost air-tight at certain stages as, for example, for the first week or 10 days after the cuttings are inserted. If the soil in the pots is given a thorough soaking after the cuttings are put in, and then the frames kept quite close, as described, it is probable that no further watering will bo necessary until the roots are formed. It will be quite sufficient to dew the plants morning and evening with a syringe. This is a great advantage, ns constant watering tends to consolidate the surface, aud, in any case, roots are not formed so readily in soil that is continually sodden. AH water, whether used at the roots or overhead, must be warmed to the temperature of the frame, which is likely to ho several degrees above that of the house. The best plan is to stand the can of water on the pipes near the boiler for several hours before it is needed; it will then heat gradually. AH manner of cuttings can be struck in these temporary close-boxes, and the beginner will find endless pleasure in experimenting. There will, of course, be failures, but a little experience is worth a great deal of theoretical knowledge obtained from hooks. Points to bear in mind are that young, firm growths are best, and that should be given to those in which the joints or points from which the leaves commence are close together. Drawn plants, such as result from lack of light or too much heat, do not give satisfactory cuttings, but are very liable to suffer from the damping-' off disease. _ AH the cuttings are prepared by trimming off the lower leaves, and cutting the bottom straight through immediately below a joint. A knife with an edge of razor-like keenness should he used, as jagged cuts take a long time

to heal, and -often cause decay, which spreads through the whole cutting. Another point to reriiember is that cuttings should only be inserted just sufficiently deep for the soil to keep them erect, and that they must be firmed well around the base and not at the collar. Overdeep insertion is the cause of many failures. A little silver said to scatteron the surface is a great help, as it fails into the holes made with, the dibber, and settlers around the bases of the cuttings, improving drainage and encouraging, rapid rooting. The outdoor frame is equally as valuable. It forms the link ‘ between the greenhouse and the open garden, and, in addition, can be used as a miniature greenhouse itself, particularly for rooting cuttings of hardy plants or for raising seedlings a little earlier than would be possible from outdoor sowings. Although many plants are hardy, or, in the case of pentstemons, nearly so, they require a little protection throughout the winter, partly because of their delicate root systems and also because the growth is rendered more soft .and liable to. injury than usual by the artificially close'atmosphere necessary to make the cuttings strike. In the autumn such a frame will not require a covering; light during the day unless the weather is particularly inclement, but protection should be given at night for a time.

Ventilation and watering are two important items in the management : of unheated frames. In the case of unrooted cuttings and ungerminated send matters are simple, and it is only necessary .to keep ; the lights as close as possible, and Provide shade from all direct sunlight, ater, however, the problem becomes a little more complicated. Plants that are rooted and growing fast must have air in plenty. It is, therefore, essential to give ventilation, yet this must be achieved without admitting cold draughts or causing sudden fluctuations of temperature, 4 , A large block of wood cut with notches every couple of inches will be found of great service, the frame light can ,;.bc' propped up on this' to just such a height as may seem advisable, ■ according to the advancement of the , occupants of the frame and the state of the weather. Moreover, this ventilation can be given' on whichever side of the frame seems most suitable, which will, of course, always be 1 away from the prevailing windj or rather that which is blowing at the time, if it is strong or from a■: cold quarter.—“ Plantsman,” in Amateur Gardening.