BIG CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 21994, 1 July 1933, Page 7

BIG CHRYSANTHEMUMS

The novice who would like to enter the lists in competition with chrysanthemum growers of experience must make an early start. One of the secrets of success in the production of big blooms lies in giving the plants a long season of growth, during which they need not be urried at any period. But an early beginning involves the provision of housing accommodation for the plants for a longer period, and hence when they are larger, than would be the case if a start was made later in the season. It will not be safe to place the plants unprotected in the open until the first week in November, by which time cuttings rooted in July will probably be in pots eight inches in diameter. It is therefore necessary to look ahead, and not tax greenhouse space too heavily in the first instance, or there is certain to be difficulty in finding adequate room for the plants as they develop. If blooms of size and quality are desired, it is no use relying upon old plants. These get .so hard and woody at tho base that it is impossible for sap to rise with sufficient rapidity to satisfy the demands made by flowers of exhibition standard. Young cuttings, on the other hand, start life unhindered by any of this worn-out tissue, and, if grown on steadily throughout the season, will make healthy, vigorous plants by the autumn. The selection of the right kind of shoots from which to prepare the cuttings is most important. As soon as the old plants have finished blooming they should be cut back to within six inches of the soil. It will probably be found that they- have already begun to throw up new shoots from the roots, and some of these will make good cuttings. The ideal is a shoot about two and a-hijlf inches in length, sturdy without being so thick and succulent as to be abnormal, and pushing up through the soil. Avoid those that are very long, very thick, very thin and wiry, or else are growing from the base of old stems, and not from the roots.

To prepare the cutting where cut from shoots too tall to be used intact, all the leaves, save three or four at the top, should be removed, and the base cut cleanly through immediately below a joint. It is essential that the knife used for this operation should be keen-edged, or it will bruise the tender stem and render it liable to decay. A number of cuttings may be prepared at one time, but they should not be allowed to lie about exposed to sunlight strong enough to make them droop. Place them in a ’ shallow seed tray, and cover with a piece of damp paper until they can be dealt with. A mixture of equal parts loam and silver sand will do well as a compost in which to strike the cuttings. Pass the loam through a sieve with a quarter-inch mesh, and then thoroughly mix the sand with it.

The cuttings can be struck in pots, boxes, or on a bench in the greenhouse. Usually the second method is most convenient for the amateur. Shallow boxes, such as ■ those used for seed raising, are suitable, and are prepared for use by placing a good layer of rough rubble or old leaves in the bottom of each. This will ensure proper drainage.

The trays are almost filled with the compost, which should be gently pressed into the sides and corners with the fingers and then firmed all over with a smooth block of wood. Finish off by scattering dry silver sand rather thickly over the surface. It is important that the trays should not be quite full of soil, as this will allow them to hold sufficient water when they are sprayed with the water pot. A blunt-ended dibber, about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil, should bo used for inserting the cuttings. Place them in straight rows across the tray, starting at back left-hand corner, and finishing at the front right-hand corner. The rows should be an inch and a-halt apart, the same distance being left between the cuttings. Thrust the dibber perpendicularly into the soil to a depth of about one inch. As it is withdrawn, slip the stem of the cutting into the hole, and again press the dibber down into the soil, but this time at an angle and a little to one side, so as to press the soil around the base of the cutting. The soil must be just sufficiently firm to prevent the cutting from being removed if given a gentle pull with the fingers. There is no advantage in ramming the soil solidly against it—a practice which hinders drainage and t'ends to make the soil get sour.' When a box has been filled with cuttings give it a good soak of water, applying this from a can fitted with a moderately fine rose. The box should be stood in a light part of the greenhouse, not far removed from the glass. 1 No shading will be necessary, unless the sun is shining directly on the cuttings, in which case they should be protected by a sheet of paper, which may be pinned to the inside framework of the greenhouse. The soil mu#t be kept moist, but not sodden. This will probably necessitate giving it a good soak about once a iveek, but no rule of thumb methods will serve here. Only actual inspection can finally decide whether or no water is necessary. If the weather is fine and bright, the cuttings will derive benefit by a light overhead spraying with clean water about 10 or 11 a.m. This will dry off by the evening. ' Artificial heat is only necessary to keep out frost and to maintain a circulation of air when _the weather is damp and the atmosphere heavy. High temperatures are fatal to success. If the thermometer does not fall below 45deg at night and rises to 50’or 55 degrees during the day without the aid of sun heat, all will be well. A little ventilation can be given during the day when the weather is mild and bright, but for the first week a fairly close condition should be maintained. In about three weeks’ time from the date of insertion the cuttings should begin to take on a fresher, more “ porky ” appearance, and to make a little new growth. This is an indication that they have rooted. Ventilation must be increased at once, the top ventilators being opened several inches, and allowed to remain so for four or five hours during favourable days. But when the sky is very clear and blue, be careful to close them agiiin by 3 p.m., as these signs usually indicate frost.—Plantsman, in Amateur Gardening.