WOOLLEN INDUSTRY.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 20704, 30 April 1929, Page 15

WOOLLEN INDUSTRY.

BRITISH RESEARCH ASSOCIAV TION. ' THE “ TORRIDON” INSTITUTION. DR S. G. BARKER’S REPORT. (FbOM. Oca OwiT COHBESPOMDENT.) . •„ LONDON, March 19, . A very comprehensive report has. been issued on the work of the British Research , Asooiation. for the Woollen and Worsted Industries which" is carried on at Torridon, Headingley. Leeds, When the High Commissioner (Sir-James Parr) - visited Yorkshire recently be was shown; over the institution, and was much iriipressed with the work, that is being undertaken there. . . , . The investigations carried out by the: staff,’.says Dr S. G,-Barker, in"opening his report,' “start from the mating of the parent sheep.and,finish only when the fabric is actually being born. It is obvious .that with such a. wide field of investigation attention cannot immediately be devoted, to every’problem that comes to one’s mind, but that regard must Tie given to the fundamental issues which'will: form a sound basis for ■ the-subsequent superstructure of industrial application.” In any systematic study of the wool industry, states Dr Parker, first of all one would have to pay. attention to the properties and production of, the raw material from Which the finished products of manufacture are to be derived. In the case of wool, from the scientific point of view there is very little definite knowledge to place before the manufactureror grower. , In fact, it can be said that from the scientific point of view we know just enough . about wool to realise how, little we know.’ DEFINITE DATA. Kvery step taken in' the investigation of the properties of ■ the fibre' only convinces" the investigator of the large amount of work yet to be-done and of the .wonderful material upon which be is, working.' One point, is of special interest-—namely, the inherent variability of wool, as re*. Cards its properties. It" would seem, there-, tore,: .-that work.- on the raw material should be _ directed’towards the analysis, identification, measurement, etc.,' of - the Various attributes of the wool fibre and subsequently ’to the clear' ascertainment of- the ■ relative importance ■of each of ' these characteristics in the industrial processes. The question of the modification of the properties of wool to suit'-particu-lar conditions, as Well as the means- of effecting such modifications, must be determined. The effects of selection, breeding, nutrition, pasturage,-etc., bn particular breeds- of sheep, ! and consequent effects upon the' Wool -produced on their-backs, must be observed carefully and.-expressed in such" a- manner that the producer will have definite’, data upon which, to base his future work in the production of improved wool for the . manufacturing side of the industry. In. the. case of wool, the raw . material has been produced., very -largely .without reference to , its subsequent, use,!, and in consequence uneconomic factors have crept in which render the industry under a permanent disability 'in competing .with artificial fibres. It is obvious, therefore, that: a close connection'should exist between manufacturer and producer of 1 the raw material, and, , secondly, that this closer connection should be founded on/a basis of" scientific ■ fact which is irrefutable. ■■■■:■' - . * It has to be remembered 'in this wort, that wool is not the only -product of the sheep,.anditlose- attention!has to be given to the mutton-producing qualities of the " animal, as ’ well as . to the wool side. Physiological ch'aracteristics'of the sheep are'being investigated in co-operation-with other bodies, -such!as the Animal Bracing ■ Research Department of Edinburgh University, and - the ; Eowett Institute, Aberdeen. The scheme of-wool- research is - therefore of a ’very; wide, and comprehensive 'character,- otherwise little , grass can-be made, since "in'all matters'the economic factor; must ;be' considered. IMPORTANT. INVESTIGATIONS.' - _ Attention is first directed to those qualities of - wool- which affect ■ its; spinning power, and in : this direction considerable progress .-.has.:been ■ made during- the last! 12 months. It has been shown in, the association’s! reports that not; only - does the thickness: or the fibre greatly - influence its spinning power, butalso that-it is "inaccurate to speak of “diameter,” both as regards thickness and contour. The words " cross-section ” should always be used. Actualexperimentand measurement- baa, .demonstrated .that in the case, of;-a greasy-wool>the contourls far- more eveil, and approximates -more closely -to. the circular than in the case of" a dry wool bf.similar,quality!' Examination of crimp , has led to considerable . information regarding , thb relationship of- crimp and fibre , thickness,, and .!; may possibly elucidate several points “of the -highest" importance tothe,industry.: An investigatioipof the-swelling of. wool fibres under the influence of, different media has shown that certain processes in; the industry are related to this phenomenon. Results aria, already accruing in connection with a possible explanation of certain phenomena in milling, together) with the effects -of ■ the alkalinity of acidity of the "liquors "in which the wool io actually worked.. ■ It is thus seen that research'work on the fibre itself is leading to discoveries ,of considerable moment to -the,.user ■ of the wool in the manufacturing processes/ and when these facts are fully elucidated and established they will be of-'immense value to - the.-trade ' and to the wool producer, since he will then know the relative’ value to the manufacturer of the various properties of the fibre! he produce's, and may be "able, by certain courses of treatment, nutrition, breeding, etc.,, to enhance the most valuable and" attempt to eliminate those qualities Which* for a particular purpose, may be derogatory to the! manufacturing quality of the fibre! - : A UNIFIED AIM. The task ahead is enormous, and any system of wool research that is to be developcJ must be- Imperial in character. Ihe value of wool to the Homo Country as a raw manorial and to the Empire -as an agricultural product is very great) and it is essential that if the pre-eminence -of the woollen and worsted industries in-the economic structure of the Empire is to be maintained, there should be closer contact between producer and user, with a -unified aim—namely, to eo-operato'. in- the product}° n of a final article, which, throughout ■us whole treatment, from the mating iof the parent sheep to the finishing ox the fabric, shall have been manipulated on the most scientific,! lines." . The introduction of Yiie-thods of precision into any industry would naturally meau the development of a • higher and more intelligent typo of artisan." and worker. -It is essential, therefore,: that" alongside any scheme of wool research the closest contact should be maintained With those technical colleges. and institutions which exist for the training ofthe young workers who will _take their places in' the' mills.. With a, view to maintaining .this contact,; the Research Association is* inaugurating a Research Co-ordinating Committee which will include in its member-, ship, those professors and workers in textile institutions upon, whose .shoulders will fall the onus of training, the young mind in th e This co-operation between the technical institutions and the ■Research Association must be made'more effective, and the link, much stronger. During the past year the. Research Association has inaugurated ,an Abstracting Service and Information Bureau by which all relevant- papers published in any part of the world are carefully abstracted and the abstracts published to the members of the association who so desire it each month. This abstracting service must be very considerably developed' and can ,be of very great value to those engaged'in textile education, as .well as to botffinanufacturer and;sheep-breeder.' ..... 1 IMPERIAL RESEARCH. ‘ , ■Besides this, the Research Association has arranged for 'the publication of papers by workers in the dominions, notably by Professor Duerden (South Africa), !a’nd by Dr Dry (New Zealand). It, is thus seen that a scheme of! Imperial wool research, in close co-operation with the dominion workers, is. actually taking shape, and it .is hoped that when the dominions ■ have a-more definite stake in the work at," Torridon ” the link between the manufacturer and the producer will be stronglyforged in scientific fact. In point of actual services to the trade, it is worthy of note -that during the past 12 months there has been a great increase in the number of trade problems put forward. Nearly - 400 were dealt with during the! year, and it is' significant, of the value of -,this- work .that, in the first months of 1929, the number has been double that of the ; previous year. - ■ Most - Useful information is"" derived' from these problems.

and this'mutual; assistance-between'the . •staff and the industry itself is- of >" undoubted valuer , ■ -Dr Barker describes'in detail the work of, the Various departments under - the headings bf biology,: microbiology, pbysics; chemistry, % colour^,technology,. woollen ; carding , and spinning, worsted spinning,economics, ■ and-finally makes-a reference ' to the Dominion tour by Dr J.- E; Nichols "of the association. ‘ - , 1