IN ROMANTIC SEAS.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19946, 13 November 1926, Page 22

IN ROMANTIC SEAS.

NOUMEA AND NEW HEBRIDES. FAMOUS PENAL SETTLEMENT. DUNEDIN MAN’S VISIT. “1 expected to see a tropical island after the style of Tahiti, but Noumea, from the harbour entrance, can more aptly be compared with Queenstown,” said Mr C. E. Jones, of the firm of Messrs Neill and Co. (Ltd.), when interviewed by an Otago Daily Times reporter on his return from a three months’ holiday trip to Sydney, Noumea, and the New Hebrides. Mr Jones went on to say that, while Noumea was very interesting from an historical point of view, owing to its having been for so long a penal settlement of France, the town was very disappointing. In comparison with towns under British control in other parts of the Pacific, Noumea is very dirty. Noumea was evidently suffering from the French financial crisis. Tho withdrawal of the troops that had been quartered there during the time the island was used as a penal settlement, was one of the chief causes of Noumea being so lifeless. Tho buildings at Ho Non, which were capable of housing 10,000 convicts arc still standing. They are partly occupied by a few convicts who, although they have regained their liberty, are too old and decrepit to leave the island. Being the old i convict settlement, He Non is full of romantic and historic interest. There still remains a number of criminals confined to the cells and some political deportees. Old dungeons, whioh are now unused for punishment purposes, can be inspected. New Caledonia is rich in all minerals, but nickel is the only ore worked systematically to any extent. Nickel smelting works are situated close to Noumea. Chrome ore was worked to some extent. New Caledonia was taken possession of by France in 1853. Tho length of the island is eight times greater than its width, and its area is 6178 square miles. Of tho 58,600 inhabitants, 14,(XX) are of European stock. Although situated in the tropics, _ tho climate is mild and temperate. The climatic conditions are similar, to those of Brisbane. Mr Jones made the trip from Sydney • to Noumea by the Messageries Maritimes steamer Dupleix. This vessel accomplishes the passage, a distance of over 1100 miles from Sydney, in just over four days. Noumea is a quaint old town, situated on the foreshores of a very hay facing the south-west. The town extends from the foot of a hill and branches out into three pictureskue valleys, which form the suburbs. The Vallee du Tir, Valley du Genie, and valee des Colons are the principal of these. As steamers approach Noumea, the hillsides present a most picturesque appearance, for prominent buildings like the cathedral, the Protestant Church, and the signal station stand boldly out. The harbour offers a. safe anchorage for all vessels, being well protected by coral reefs and' two small islands—He Non

and He Brun. The long stone wharf affords excellent berthing accommodation. A range of mountains runs down the. island from its northern to its southern end. Communication by road is, therefore, in most cases very difficult, though the roods there are excellent. The main road is about 800 kilometres in length. Tho centres of the island which are not accessible by road are served by a shipping company, subsidised by the Government. The foastal steamers make fortnightly trips along the western and eastern coasts of the island, and call at many most interesting places. St. Louis is the nearest native village _to Noumea. Besides minerals, in which New Caledonia is one of the richest endowed countries in the world, the principal products are coffee, cotton, sandalwood, niaouli wood, and niaouli oil. Cobalt and gold are also plentiful. VISIT TO NEW HEBRIDES.

After spending a few days at Noumea, the Duple is leit for the New Hebrides group. A call was made at Lefue, the principal port in the Loyalty islands, where about 30 natives were taken on board to work the cargo at the various ports of call around the group. Large quantities of copra, cotton, coffee, and cocoa are exported, and as all the loading is carried out from lighters a good deal of work entailed. The natives appear to make excellent stevedores, and take a huge delight in all the work about the steamer. Their only wearing apparel is a loin cloth. They are exceedingly muscular and well set-up men. At Port Vila, 325 miles from Noumea, are the residence of the FrancoEritish Conominium Government, the Mixed Tribunal the hospital, post office, and the branches of the principal Noumean firms. The New Hebrides are controlled conjointly by the French and British, and questions arising between the two Governments are supposed to be settled by the Condominium Government, but it is stated that there has been no sitting of this body for some years, and there does not appear to be any likelihood of the representatives of the two countries being called together. The most important question to be considered in these islands is the labour problem. The French Government permitted its subjects to import black labour, while the British Government refused to sanction similar action on the part of its subjects, with ' the result that British planters were being forced either to register under the French flag or to dispose of their plantations. . , , From Port Vila the Dupleix proceeded to Epi, another island 77 miles from Vatc. There are no hotels there, but at the homsteads of French settlers travellers always receive a warm welcome, and are given facilities for visiting the plantations. The next stopping place is Port Sandwich, on the He Mallicolo. The bay is well protected, but the surrounding mountains create heat conditions that are sometimes severe. Copra, cotton, and cocoa are shipped from Port Sandwich. About two miles distant are the French Catholic missions. From Port Sandwich the Dupleix steamed to the Segond Canal (Luganville), between the islands or Aore and Espiritu banto. In this settlement are the best and most prosperous establishments of the Frenph colonists in the islands. It is predicted that Luganville will shortly be the leading port of the New Hebrides. Ranoon, on the island of Ambrym, is an optional port of call, where the traveller sees the volcano in activity. The round trip from Noumea to the New Hebrides and bark occupies about eight days, and is full of interest. The trip presents an exceptional opportunity of visiting an attractive foreign land and for pleasant association with the French t whose speech and customs naturally make an interesting contrast with British ways. Through these delightful islands of the South Pacific the sea is as smooth as a lake, and fresh scenes greet the eye at every turn.