THROUGH DARKEST AUSTRALIA.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19946, 13 November 1926, Page 21

THROUGH DARKEST AUSTRALIA.

WITH THE DOUGLAS WYLIE EXPEDITION.

Y.—BACK TO CIVILISATION

Written for the Otago Daily Times.

Bt Bernard C. Ryder, F.R.G.S,

The most arduous of undertakings have at times their lighter side, and a series of prolonged calms, during our passage of the outer islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago, gave us plenty of leisure. By this time our stock of gramophone records had been played time and time again, until they had long lost their interest. With no wind, and a tropic sun beating down, we would lie under the awning, wondering what was happening in the world of nows, as we had been out of touch with civilisation for many weeks. Our specimen casks were well filled win, preserved specimens of fish, we had enough shark jaws and fins adorning the rigging to start a good-sized museum. In fact, tho proceeds of a night’s catch of fish ’ was strung from the two masts, to dry in tho sun, giving us tho appearance of a Chinese junk. The decks were covered with sped mens of coral that were unpleasant to tread upon with our bare feet, while from stern dangled a sack containing clam shells that were put there to dry in the sun, and as the days wore on, the fragrance of the sharks’ fins and clam shells became more and more oppressive, until we were accompanied by great swarms of flies. We had been without sugar for about two weeks and so decided to adopt the somewhat novel idea of utilising black treacle. It certainly imparted a. sweetness to the tea, but it was soon abandoned in favour of boiled sweets. At each meal a handful of sweets was doled out in lieu of sugar, but peppermint or aniseed, somewhat detracted from the pleasure of the tea.

Early one afternoon a light wind came puffing over the Timer Sea, and although it gave us but four knots, yet it was a step in the right direction. We anchored that night in 15 fathoms, and put out our usual collection of shark hooks. Just be-

fore dawn the party w’as awakened by the crew calling, and it was found that one of the shark hooks was stretched taut in tho water. We all grasped it and commenced heaving away, but the resistance that was put up mad'e it necessary to obtain reinforcement so we requisitioned the crew until there were 12 of us pulling in that solitary shark line. Slowly it came up, and excitement was at fever pitch. One of us _ seized a rifle to give the monster his quietus as, with perspiration standing on our brow r s, we pulled in that line. Only four feet to go. In it came slowly and slowly, until, to our great surprise, appeared the top of our mud-covered anchor. We had pulled up 15 fathoms of perfectly good anchor.

We got a good wind later that day and put up a wonderful run, striking the mainland at a pretty little bay. All went ashore with a small net, and dragged part of the bay, securing some wonderful stingray and quite a number of edible fish. It was blowing strongly when the sail was hoisted, and the vessel fairly flew along, lying right over, with water coming halfway up the deck. We made our record run With that south-easterly. Rounding Swan Point, the vessel came to an anchorage at Cape Levequo shortly after 3 p.m. There were large numbers of curlew ashore, and quite a number were shot while some of us gathered sponges that were lying about. The beach was literally alive with small crabs that werfe quite the quickest we had ever seen. They could run so quickly that they easily eluded us, and even a dog that was on the beach, belonging to a native had great difficulty in catching them. The vessel left Leveque early the following morning, on the final run to Broome, and all noted how quickly the contour of the land changed. From rugged rocks and cliffs, the coast gave way to white sand, which looked delightful with a big surf rolling in. It was hoped to have made Broome the following day, but again calms prevailed, and late that day we passed a steamer sailing to Singapore, our first sight of civilisation in the guise of a modern steamer.

The vessel arrived in Broome early in 'the morning, and a bronzed but happy party trudged ashore and along to the Governor Broome Hotel. We were back at last to civilisation, and although that civilisation represented but Broome, yet to us it was the most wondrous city our eyes had seen for many long weeks. Never did water look so inviting as that which flowed through the taps, and it was a novelty having it so near at hand, without having to dig for it or to guard it as we guarded it through those many weeks of tropical sun. Upon our arrival in Broome it was found that the Bambra, in which the party was to have proceeded to Carnarvon.'had been delayed, and it would have necessitated our remaining in Broome for at least 10 days. Fortunately, it was learnt that the oil steamer Centaur was passing Broome the following night, so the vessel was wirelessed, and it was arranged for her to take us and our luggage on board at sea. As most of our heavy baggage, including the nets, were still' on board the lugger, the party proceeded on board shortly before 10 p.m., and sailed to Entrance Harbour, where the Centaur was to meet us. It was a very dark night, and there was a fair sea running, so the prospect of boarding a steamer at sea with over two tons of baggage and specimens was not very appealing. The Centaur was sighted steaming along, and a message was flashed to indicate our position, while we waited for her to slow down. Sailing close to a vessel at sea on a dark night is a difficult business, and three times our vessel circled her, whilst they attempted to get a line to us. Finally a line was got aboard, after we had all but crashed into her in the darkness pwing to the big vessel swinging round on us on the tide, and our boat made fast with fenders out. The captain and officers of the Centaur showed us the greatest courtesy, and had our baggage hoisted up on the derricks in very little time. It wag raining a thin drizzle when Carnarvon hove into sight, while a big swell made the berthing of the Centaur a matter of some difficulty. After a great deal of trouble in landing our nets, specimen tanks, movie cameras, and some two tons of other gear, we managed to find a seat in the diminutive train at the wharf for the thriving township of Carnarvon. Accommodation was found for us in the leading hotel, and all retired, grimy but happy. The following morning a number of leading Australian residents who had proceeded to Carnarvon joined our party. Amongst them was Mr Campion, son of the Gover-nor-General of Western Australia. The party were mustered into big touring cars, and, after our provisions were safely stowed away on a baggage truck, we left Carnarvon in a cloud of dust and good wishes for Point Cloates, some 230 miles up north. The country was very sparse and drab; feed seemed a negligible quantity, while the stock that was passed looked very emaciated. How they managed to survive upon the noor country was a marvel to us, yet they seemed plentiful enough. The vast size of Australia is soon brought home to one when driving over miles of inland country. Many stations boasted an area of three-quarters of a million acres, and one station visited had a horse padodek of 25,000 acres alone. To connect up one station by telephone cost its owner £SOO. After seemingly endless miles of travel, Minilya Station was reached, an oasis in a desert of drab flat country, and it was indeed r surprise to find In this outpost of Australia, in the midst of desert country, orange groves, lemon trees, a wireless plant, electric light, and blood stock that would have vied with our cities. How the owner mana, ed to find room for us all was a mystery, for we were over 25 strong, yet there seemed to be beds to spare. From Minilya the party proceeded to Ningaloo, past the big salt lakes, the cars running well over the sandy country. The country was literally alive with game—emus, turkeys, and many varieties of kangaroo. Towards evening time working tow rds the coast the kangaroos came down from the hills in their thousands —great big red boomers, standing well over six feet. The rainfall at this part of Aust alia is very light, but a heavy dew compensates. Arrangements for transport were carried out without a hitch, and on reaching the heavy sandy country near the coast the members of the party utilised camel teams that had been sent ahead. They were hitched to wagons with our luggage piled high; they worked through the fine loose sand, mak-

inf? about two to three miles an hour. The camel has certainly solved the big problem of transport in the remote parts of Autsralia, where other methods of transport have failed. After many weary miles’ march ov. the sand dunes the party reached Point Cloates, where extensive whaling operrlons arc carried out by the Norwegian Bay Whaling Company. Whaling is extensively carried out at Point Cloates, although the season only lasts for six months, yet the catch last year totalled 670 whales. The whales found in this part of Australia are the humpback, and t ey generally average about 40 to 50 tons. Through the kindness of the manager, the party were taken over the whole of the plant, and went out to sea on the whaling vessels. At about July and August the whales work northwards, and return with their calves, being harpooned close to the reef, where they endeavour to free themselves from the barnacles by robbing themselves on the reefs. Captain Olsen, who was in charge of the Fram, one of the whaling vessels, has the distinction of being the world’s champion .larnoonist. and the party spent an exciting day witnessing the chase and death of quite a number of whales. The modern whaling vessels are equipped with a harpoon gun placed on a raised platform, behind which the harpoonist stands. A telephone connected with the engine room enables him to convey directions, which he receives from the look-out man in the crow’s nest. As soon as a whale is sighted the vessel steams at full speed, and although the whale endeavours to elude it by diving and reappearing some hundreds of yards away, yet they rarely escape. On the occasion of our visit Mr Olsen gave an excellent exhibition* of harpooning. We sighted a whale about a-quarter of a mile away, and by careful manipulating of the_ vessel got within 65 yards of it. The distance was considerable for firing the harpoon, which itself weighs over one hundredweight. With his gun trained on the whale, the helmsman steadied the boat, and with a deafening report the harpoon was discharged. We could see it hurling through the air, and saw it strike the whale. Modern harpoons arc fitted with an explosive head, which bursts four seconds after entering the whale, killing it almost instantly, i whale rarely drags the vessel over the water as is commonly imagined. As soon as the whale was harpooned it came to the surface and started blowine. throwing up great quantities of blood which soon attracted dozens of tiger sharks. From all directions they came, leaping on to the unfortunate whale, tearing great pieces out of it. In order to give the whale its quietus, a second harpoon was fired, and it was soon brought alongside. The sharks attacked '.he whale even when alongside the vessel, and we secured some remarkable moving pictures of the thrilling spectacle. The humpback whaie is the only one of the whale, family that makes a sound, and its snorting and bellowing was verv terrifying as it plunged about in its flurry. Two whales were secured and taken shorewards. where a smaller vessel conveyed ti.em nearer. Finally a small launch took them direct to the landing stage where they were cut up. It takes but 20 minutes to' cut up a whale, and the whole carcase is utilised. The blubber is melted down into oil, the average yield bei.-g about 44 tons, and the oil is then conveyed into huge tanks, preparatory to being shipped to England by the company’s own vessel. The bones of the whale are ground up and made into fertiliser, but the whalebone no longer finds a matket modern fashions having outgrown this old-tim- necessity. We spent over a week at Point Cloates, and caught many fine fish, one groper being over seven feet lour Sharks are verv thick at Point 1 loates, and it is said that thev can entirely consume a whale in about 20 minutes. From Point Cloates. the party worked back to Carnarvon, where they split up, some going overland and the others by boat preparatory to returning to New Zealand.