TYRIAN PURPLE: THE BADGE OF ARISTOCRACY.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19529, 11 July 1925, Page 9

TYRIAN PURPLE: THE BADGE OF ARISTOCRACY.

Purple and mauve are, in our variable climate, the most unthrifty colours which can be worn, as they quickly fade. It was not so with the famous Tyrian purple, which, in place of fading, was deepened by exposure to the air. We can picture the Roman dandy as he fared forth in his purple toga, knowing that the bright sunlight, instead of injuring it, would intensify its rich tints. He also knew that only the wealthy and luxurious could afford to wear the Tyrian purple owing to the expensive method of producing it. Its manufacture was a great source of wealth to the merchants in the ancient city of Tyre, which had a world-wide celebrity for its dyeing and weaving establishments.

The colouring matter was procured from the shellfish Murex tninculus, which was found in the Mediterranean and chiefly on the coasts of Asia Minor and Phoenicia. The quantity in each shell was very small, hence great quantities were required. The murex are noted for their bright colours and for their fantastic shapes. During excavations at Pompeii shells of this species were found, having probably been used by painters. Fabric to be dyed was sometimes moistened with sea water. The natural dye, as found in the shell, was then brushed over it two or three times, after which it was exposed to the air and sunshine. At first a faint yellow, it turned to green, then finally to deep purple* and the colour was “fast.” During the process a disagreeable odour was usual, and clung slightly to the fabric for some time after.

To be ‘‘invested with the purple” was a synonym for assuming royal power, and, in the palmy days of Rome, those who were wealthy enough wore the toga of this colour. The most common official dress was the toga proctexta, which had a. purple border and was worn by Dictators, Consuls, and by all free-born youths till they assumed the toga virilis. A similar toga wa also worn by girls. The trabea, an upper garment with broad purple stripes, is said to have been the dress of kings, and was subsequently assumed by the equites in the solemn procession. On State occasions the emperors wore a toga entirely of purple. Only citizens were' privileged to wear a toga, that being the garment of peace in contrast to the sagum of the soldier. The usual mode of wearing it was to throw one end over the left shoulder, the other end being brought round the back and under the right arm to the left. On occasions of great solemnity the toga was brought over the head. 1 ' The humble little Murex trunculus, by the way, was not only useful in prodne ing the Tyrian purple, but was useful to seamen for marking their sails. A pointed stick was thrust into the shell, and the marks, although faint at first, deepened in the sunlight, and the sailor knew that they were not likely to fade.—E. K., m John o’ London’s Weekly.