DUNEDIN’S CHINATOWN.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19198, 14 June 1924, Page 2

DUNEDIN’S CHINATOWN.

CELESTIAL BOARDINGHOUSES. CROWDED, BUT FAIRLY CLEAN. Shortly after 2 o’clock on Thursday morning a Daily Times reporter, in company with Sergeant M’Entee and a constable, visited Mr H. Brien’s premises in Stuart street, which were tho scene of a lire about four hours earlier. There was silence in the building except for tho squelching and trickling of numerous small channels of water, which seemed to reiterate as they ran that they had conquered the arch-enemy—Fire. The iire demon remained mute in spite of Water’s jibes, nor did he again seek to fling abroad his terrible blazing tentacles to gather all in his fiery embrace to destioy, destroy, destroy. All was still. Through the jagged, torn sides of the building could bo caught glimpses of tho heavens above, blue but cold. But one glimpse of the sky, which stood out in strong relief, behind the blackened, scorched timbers, was sufficient to inspire the onlookers with that wonder of tho vast Infinite —the futility of Alan’s efforts against tho terrible elements Fire and Water when they become, not his servants, but his masters. STUART STREET QUARTERS. Thus moralising, the trio made their way to the rear of the premises, and, on climbing up a small but dilapidated stairway came to a door which opened outwards. They entered a small room, about the size of the average kitchen, and. by means of a torch, discovered a supply of candles. This room, which was occupied by five Chinese, who arc employed in a nearby laundry, bore signs of a hasty departure. On the table were littered various articles of clothing, collars, tiepins, etc., and even half-smoked cigarettes testified to the suddenness of the outbreak, which necessitated a hasty acceptance of the hospitality offered by brother Celestials. Cramped into tho room and lying end-to-end were five stretchers, but the mattresses and bedding had been removed. Among the articles on the table was a Chinese history, printed on a kind of cloth. It deemed strange that an account of the history of such an ancient civilisation as China should be found in such cramped and untidy quarters within practically a stone’s throw' of the municipal headquarters of this city. Tho contrast of the ancient and the modern struck one’s mind forcibly, and made one wonder how and under what conditions tho ancient forefathers of those Chinese lived and suffered—in their time. A REMARKABLE INCIDENT. Round the walls of the room, which were badly damaged by fire and water, were pegs, upon which clothes were apparently hanging, but on a closer examination it was seen that the clothes had been removed, and it was but a smoko silhouette that remained. Apparently the room had filled with smoke, which had stained all the uncovered portions of the walls, and on the Chinese hastily removing their clothes, and the prompt extinguishing of the outbreak by the Fire Brigade, the smoke and fumes had not had time to affect the portion of the wall exposed by the recent removal of the clothing, and consequently the silhouettes remained. In some cases whore the coats had been hung over the -waistcoats. both garments were clearly defined on the wall, and even the buttons, pockets, and seams stood out in hold relief. In the grey hours of the early morning the appearance of the room occupied by the Chinese was far from prepossessing but, on visiting the premises again shortly after 9 o’clock the reporter found that the condition of the room was considerably better than his first impressions had led him to believe. The walls —or what was left of them—had recently been papered, and the floor was fairly clean. The bedding, which had also been brought back by the Chinese, was comparatively clean, and was thick, warm, and of good quality; in fact the room was in a much cleaner condition than is frequently the case in premises occupied by Asiatics and, it would not he necessary to search far, even in this city, to find Europeans living under much worse conditions. Two of the Chinese found shelter on Wednesday night in a Chinese boarding-house in Carroll street, and the other three wore accommodated in a similar house in the north-end of the town. THE LOCAL CHINATOWN. For many years past Carroll street, which was formerly known as Walker street, has been a favourite resort of Asiatics of various nationalities, but to-day much of its former “glory” has departed, as the Chinese have scattered all over the town with their fruit-shops, laundries, and market- gardens. There is none of the picturesque Orientalism depicted in the graphic stories of Burke’s “Limehoiiso Nights” in London, that vast area which for many years has been a resort of the huge cosmopolitan population of lower-class London In Burke’s stories Chinese mandarins of high degree conduct their nefarious pursuits in the opium and orug traffic while surrounded in all the luxury natural to them in their native land. Once in the clutches of those inscrutable Chinese and their gangs, Europeans, whether men or women, arc fortunate if they escape. There is nothing of tho mysticism or fatalism of the East in the drab, common-place of the boarding-houses in Carroll street, and the groups of Chinese, quietly playing cards or dominoes in the warm and somnolent atmosphere, seem quite content with their lot, and view life with the usual stoicism which is a characteristic of their nation. Through tho courtesy of Mr King, chief sanitary inspector, tho reporter was able to pay ;i surprise visit to several Chinese establishments in Carroll street. The first boarding-house visited was an old wooden building at tho foot of the street, and in response to the ins]>ector’s knock’ the door was speedily opened. The reporter then stepped into a small square room, which aparcntly served the purpose of an office, and which was decorated with Chinese calendars, and a number of old prints of English Royalty.' The visitors were then . shown upstairs where there was a pungent odour which bore a strong resemblance to the smell of spent Chinese fireworks. “SMOKE, BAD, STRONG.” On going into a small bedroom occupied by an olderlv Chinese, it was seen that one of tho windows had been broken and had been patched up with a piece of cardboard but not satisfactorily. About a foot below the level of the window a chimney pot emitted acrid fume o , which, penetrating into the room, spread along the narrow passages and over tho who|e floor, and oven downstairs. The Chinese who occupied the room in which the smoke penetrated, said to Mr King: “You tell-ee him fix chimney before. He no do it. Smoko conic in thick. It bad, bad, strong. Mv King replied that ho had made a complaint about the smoke nuisance, but apparently nothing had been done. He would see that the defect was remedied. In other respects tho room was comparatively clean and tidy. THE BEDROOMS. In this establishment all tho bedrooms, which - face each other, are separated by a narrow passage, but the ventilation is somewhat crude. In tho panels above the doors of the rooms several boards have been removed to permit of a free passage of air, but, the Chinese apparently have noted objections to open windows, a s in each room inspected tho windows were closely fastened, and, as they were somewhat grimy the light, was dim. In tho larger sleeping quarters are three beds which are arranged to form the three sides of a square. Although the building is fitted with electric light, candles are used in tho sleeping quarters, some of which contain small tables on which smoking apparatus, and odds and ends are littered, Chinese books and newspapers being plentiful in some cases There is a plentiful supply of good, warm bedding, and a close inspection revealed that it* was much cleaner than one would have expected, very few of the rooms have anything like a good outlook, but that does not worry the Chinese, who, preferring shut windows, apparently do not bother about what is beyond. None of tho rooms contain anything of any value to Europeans, and there are no pictures of any description. On the whole ihe rooms are much cleaner than most people would expect to bo tho case. THE “BOSS.” Groups of elderly Chinese were to bo seen in various parts of Ihe building, some having a quiet game of dominoes in the playing rooms, which are equipped with .substantial tables and chairs, others squatting round the big open fires, while a number had congregated in the kitchen, which emitted a strong, appetising odour of highly seasoned soups and foods The “Boss” is a little, aged Chinese with a slight stoop, who spoke broken English. Around his neck was a silk handkerchief, which was thrust through a gold ring at the throat, and then tucked below his waistcoat. When asked, “How’s Business? he replied. “Business do good, volly bad. Only

about; 10 men come supper. Business sometimes good. some.limes bad. Very few come in from country. No pood. Me shut, up shop business no pet bettor. Better next year —Exhibition- —lots people come in from country. Mo wait till thou.” . “Will you not go back to China? asked the reporter. . , “Me no got money; too poor, replied the Chinese, who is apparently at present unable to realise the cherished dream of every Celestial to return to his homeland One little, wizened Chinese sat over an open fire, and every now and then he lazily stirred the rice which was boiling in a large pot. One wondered if he thought of the days of his youth, when he perhaps plodded in the rice fields of hig native "”0viuee, or was one of a roving gang which engaped in the depredations associated with the Boxer Rebellion. . , All the Chinese, who were mostly elderly men of the poorer class, had the inscrutable features peculiar to most of the Asiatic races, making it. impossible to hazard a suggestion at their thoughts. KITCHEN ANO YARD. The kitchen wag then inspected, where a miscellaneous collection of pots and pans wore seen simmering on the range. AH of (he cooking utensils and crockery were clean, and the chopsticks were stacked in neat little heaps on the table. The copper and tubs were also clean. Jn the yard i s a large corrugated iron fowlbouse. with a concrete Poor, but which container! a solitary duck- —the poultry snpnly was apparently low. The yard was clean a.nd tidy, and th e sanitary arrangements were finite good. A BETTun-fr HOTTER. Further up Carroll street is another boarding-house, which is patronised by a more prosperous class of Chinese. These men. all of whom are voting, are welldressed and miwh more Europeanised, and the “Boss” spoke almost perfect English. The premises generally were in a much better condition, and the sleeping quarters were also an Improvement on the others inspected. The room occupied by two brothers, who are the proprietors, wa.s practically European in every respect. Rictuses and photographs hung on the wall*, and there was an abundant supply of Chinese literature. The fowlbouse. wh’ch is on the opposite side of the street, is a. large, substantial shed, with a concrete floor, and the yard contained a largo stock of fowls, ducks, and two furkevs. As the visitors left the vrnrm’ses Mr Kmg explained that (he difficulty tV, P City Corporation officials had to contend with was that if they eieefed the Chmnco from their nres-nt premises they would have nowhere else to go, and would probably crowd into cramped quarters at (he rear of laundries and fruit shops. One of the present bnildim's is to b" rebuilt in abont two years, when the Chinese will have much improved quarters.