ASCENT OF EVEREST

Otago Daily Times, Issue 18591, 27 June 1922, Page 5

ASCENT OF EVEREST

A HERCULEAN TASK

EXPLORERS’ GREAT FEAT.

HEIGHT OF 27,300 FEET REACHED,

Pum Association—By Telegraph—Copyright. LONDON, June 24. The following story of Mr Finch and Captain Bruce’s attempt is dated Rongbuk base camp, June 2 : “We moved up to camp No. 3 at 21,000 ft, carrying the oxygen apparatus. There we tested the apparatus, and found that only one cylinder out of 10 could be used. We contrived to get four others by dismantling and reassembling thp sound parts. Walking leisurely we easily outdistanced our companions. It might have been a pleasant alpine walk at 10,000 it instead of at 21,0001 t. The attempt began on May 20. We set out for the north col, at the foot of which we met Mallory’s party returning from their record-break-ing climb. . We reached the north-east shoulder (25,000 ft up), and pitched our camp. “Meantime a snowstorm was rapidly working up to a state of fury. We crawled into our sleeping bags and tried to warm ourselves in the frail little shelter. A hot drink was impossible, owing to the altitude. We used solidified spirits to comfort our chilled bodies. Alter sunset the gale increased to a storm, tearing the tent with such force that it constantly lifted the ground sheet, though we were lying upon it. At midnight we were thickly covered with' fine spindrift, which was blown into the tent. Wo dared not sleep. It was all we could do to hold down the tent. If once the wind had fairly gripped it we would have been blown into the glacier 1000 ft below. “Next morning the gale reached its maximum. The .flapping canvas made a noise like a machine gun. It was so deafening that we were hardly able to converse. During lulls we took turns to go outside, and succeeded in roping down tne tent. We snatched a few moments’ sleep, but we were much exhausted from the exposure, and were half-lrozen. “At daybreak the snow ceased, but the wind did not abate. We tried to build a wall of stones to windward to afford protection. Each of these excursions, though it seldom lasted for five minutes, showed that there could be no question of advancing or retreating until the gale abated. “We lay quiet, keeping as warm as possible by putting on every stitch of clothing and huddling -closely together. Suddenly after midday the wind dropped to a comparative breeze. That was the time to retreat if we desired to do so, but we decided on another night, hoping for a finer day. We heard voices outside at 6 o’clock in the evening. It was the porters from the north col with thermos flasks and hot beef tea. We had a good night. We found much improvement by taking the oxygen apparatus to bed and sucking driblets from it all night. We contrived to sleep well until daybreak, and we were feeling fit and fresh, but hungry. “As soon as the sun rose we struck our tent and shouldered our burdens, but after we had climbed a few hundred feet we found that an intensely cold breeze had started to blow. Our solitary companion was a faithful and wonderful Gurkha ‘non-com.’ named Tejbir. Even his sturdy constitution showed signs of wavering. We managed to boost him up to 26,000 ft, where he collapsed. We tried to urge him on, but without avail. Tejbir was played out, and we sent him back to camp. “We were now obliged to shoulder Tejbir’s burden, which was a decidedly cruel imposition. We reached 25,500 ft. The ground was much steeper, and the wind much fiercer and colder. We climbed diagonally almost direct for the summit by a series of steep inclined slabs, where the least slip would have entailed disaster. “By midday wo reached 27,300 ft. We had negotiated half the distance between the north-east shoulder and the summit. Just before reaching this, which was our highest point. Captain Bruce had an unfortunate accident, which put his oxygen apparatus out of action. It was broken by knocking the breathing tube against a rock. I was able to share my apparatus with Captain Bruce, and we repaired the damage. Meantime the wind was cold, and it seemed bent on doing its worst. Banks of greyish, rolling clouds filled the valley at the head of the Rongbuk Glacier and drove us up before a fierce west wind. We lost all feeling in our feet, and our shoulders ached from the weight of the apparatus. “We decided that if we deposited cylinders on the ridge and descended we would have a much better chance of reaching the summit at a second attempt. Therefore we turned back, and descended in really bad weather. We staggered to camp thoroughly done up. We felt that we could not have taken another step.”— Times. '

EXPLORERS INCAPACITATED.

EXPEDITION MAY BE ABANDONED

LONDON, June 25. Unofficial reports suggest that the Everest Expedition will be abandoned. An advance of only 100 ft has been added to the record. In the third and final attempt at the summit no further progress can be expected. All the explorers are incapicated from the hardships which they have endured.—A. and N.Z. Cable.