GARDENING NOTES.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 18074, 23 October 1920, Page 3

GARDENING NOTES.

By D. Taknook.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE SBEEHHOXTSB AMD UUBSEBT. Primula keweMis and primula -sinensis are now past their best, and they can bo removed from the greenhouse to make room for the sohizanthus and calceolarias. As the primula sinensis are better raised from seed every year they can be thrown out, but the Primula kewensis can be. rested for a while, then top-dressed_ or repotted and started into growth again. Continue to place the bedding plants out into the frame' to harden off. Box up begonias and pot and basket up those to be grown inside. Th« chrysanthemums intended for flowering in pots will be growing rapidly, and, as it is most important that this growth should be regular, they will soon require to be shifted on from the three-inch pota to the five and six inch size. The soil will be richer and rougher than that used at the previous potting, and as it is the same as that required for the final potting, it is a good idea to mix up sufficient for both pottings, and to store it away in a dry shed. A suitable soil will consist of good fibrous loam, four parts; leafmould, one part; fresh horse-droppings or welldecsvyed manure, one part; sand and lime rabble, one with a six-inch potful of bone meal; one of • charcoal, one of wood ashes, and one of soot to every barrowload of the mixture. Mix thoroughly by turning it over several times, but do not put it through a sieve or break it up too fine. Wash the pots well, and place one good piece of crock in the bottom with a few small pieces ronnd it to ensure good drainage. Pot fairly firm, and after potting stand them on a bed of ashes in the greenhouse until the roots take to the new soil. THE FLOWEB GAEDEN. Keep tiie scuffle hoe going during the dry, gunny weather to kill the seedling weeds and to break up the surface soil, which has become oaked during the wet weather experienced lately. Thin and disbud the roses, which are coming on rapidly now, and promise well unless they receive a check later on; spray with soapy water should green fly appear, and plant out the pansies and violas among them. Plant out border chrysanthemums, antirrhinums, and any of the other bedding plants which are quite hardy; but it is still too soon to put out geraniums, dahlias, and begonias, which ore so easily killed by the frosty It is never quite safe to plant anything in the way of bedding plants until the end of the month, though in some seasons the middle of the month would do. Keep the lawns mowed and. rolled, and sow down new lawns or bare patches on the old ones, covering them, up with pieces of scrub to -prevent the birds from getting the seed until it germinates. Lawns which were allowed to grow away for a bit to strengthen the grass, oan be mown with the scythe now and topdressed with fine soil, or given a light dressing.'of bone meal or basio phosphate with a little sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda to stimulate growth. Violets hare finished flowering now, and this is the time to form new beds or borders. By planting early the plants have a chance to become established before the dry, warm weather sets in, and they are able to form, well-developed crowns for early flowering. Violets do best when they receive a littie shade during the summer, either from a hedge or shrubs. They are very satisfactory when planted in front of deciduous shrubs which, while providing the necessary shade daring the summer, admit plenty of light during the winter. They cannot stand drought, and the shade required is really for the purpose _ of conserving the moisture. They are quite satisfactory when planted in a moist position where they will get shade during tine summer, and then lifted and transferred to a more open position in which they will flower during the winter. , They are certainly better when lifted and transplanted every year or at least every second one, and though they will flower when left undisturbed for several years, the flowers will be small and the stalks short. Violets are not at all particular as to the kind of soil, provided i.t is reasonably rioh and contains plenty of organic matter, such as leafmould (if it can be obtained), compost heap, and well-rotted manure. This should be dug in some time before planting, if possible and not buried too deeply. Lift the old plants wjth a fork and pull them to .pieces, selectign the strong individual crowns from the outer edge of the clumps or late-rooted runners. To prevent undue loss of moisture the leaves are better removed. When planting, make the plants aa firm as possible and give one good watering to settle the so'il among the roots, and afterwards spray overhead night and morning during dry weather to maintain moist conditions round the plants. Continue to water when required and io spray overhead throughout the summer, keeping the surface soil stirred up with the scuttle hoe. Remove all the runners as they appear throughout the summer, except a few plants which are kept lor the propagating time. Wood ashes and fresh stable manure are not a success, and should not be applied, either as a top-dressing or for digging 18. Viola gracilis is a splepdid plant for spring and oarly summer planting, as it spreads so rapidly and the growth of foliage means a mass of purple when in flowor. It makes very satisfactory edgings for paths, and is suitable for carpeting under standard or for planting on the rock garden. In addition to the trees and shrubs which are cultivated for their flowers in spring and early summer, there are a number which have equally attractive foliage. Tho Japanese maples are always admired, both for the structure and the colouring of their leaves, and when planted in a position where thoy are sheltered from the cold south-west winds, they do quite well in the open. Tho following arc four good varieties: —Acer polymopphuik, atropurpureum, Acer polymorphism atropurpureum dissectum, Acer polymorph um dissectum, and the typo Acer polymorphum. Ihere are several trees which have goldon foliage in the spring, and the best of theso is the golden sycamore. It thrives in any kind of soil and will stand full exposure to the sun; but it does not retain its colour far long and during the summer is nearly as green as the ordinary sycamore. The golden elm is a very ornamental trco, and retains its colour.ng throughout tho summer v/hen planted in a partly shaded position. The golden laburnum is also well worth growing for its foliage, and the golden elderberry is a suitable plant for a moist, partly-shaded position whore few things will thrive. *Tho golden-leaved trees and shrubs should bo grouped with,' or near, those with dark or purple foHaga. The one helps to intensify the colouring of the other and the combination is ver ypleasing. The best of all the dark-leaved trees is the copper beech. It will thrive in any soil, though it prefers a Btony, well-drained one,. which should be sheltered from the oold south-west winds. As it does not grow rapidly and nerer becomes very tall, it is suitable for planting in gardens of moderate aize, and makes a fino lawn tree. Prurras prssardi. P. Moeerii, and tho dark-leaved black thorn are all good plants for grouping' with the golden-leaved kinds. Tho purple-leaved filberts and darkleaved berberis are usrful for grouping with, or under-planting, the goldon-leaved kinds. It should bo mentioned that the golden cklcrbcrry. is best when it is cut right down to the ground over:/ winter, but none of the other treos and shrufe will stand this treattapnt.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Advantage should bo taken of tho dry, sunny weather to get all tho soil among growing crops scuffle-hoed and cultivated, and also to get all vacant plots forked or cultivated over to destroy seedling weeds, which are now making their appearance. Peas should be staked as thoy require it. and they aro better when they receive attention early. Tho stakes protect them from birds and also from the cold winds, and the support tho young stems got assists growth. Though twiggy manuka . makes first-rato pea stakes, broom is also, very satisfactory, and probably easier to get. Spruce branches are particularly suitable, but twiggy branches of any kind will do. Do not put them in upright, but give them a slant, those on one side sloping in a different direction from those on the other. TV. 1 and medium-growing pons when staked produce far heavier crops than the dwarf kinds which aro allowed to sprawl on tho ground. 'Hiey occupy less space, while at tho same time they provido shade and shelter for the other crops. It is usually necessary to provide stakes at least two feet higher than the heights given on the seed packets; so that a variety which is said to grow to 4ft should be provided with stakes 6ft high. Tall stakes, at least 6ft high, should be provided for .the runner bonus, but as they climb by twining round their supports they do not need to be twigr"- liko the pea sticks. The peas climb by moans of tendrils. ■ Make a sowing of cabbage, savoys, broccoli, kale, and leeks to provide plants for tli© winter 'crops of these useful greens. Sow broadcast on a little specially-prepared border, cover with pieces .of twiggy hranches to keep the birds away, but remove the branches and put on cotton as soon as tho seedlings appear through the ground. ' The planting of potatoes should bo completed as soon aa possible. French, butter, and runuer beans can be sown; and further sowings of lettuce, turnips, carrots, beet, spinach, parsnips, radish, and kohlrabi made. Thin out all crops as they require it, giving a_ preliminary thinning as soon as the seedings aro large eftough to handle. Complete the operation later on when the character of the plant begins to show itself, and reasonable selection of the best plants can be made. ' Plant out ridgo cucumbers, vegetable marrows, and pumpkins, which will require some protection for some time. This can be provided bv the placing an old- box or some boards round the plants, and a sheet of glass over the top.