A LADY'S VISIT TO THE EAST

Otago Daily Times, Issue 14441, 6 February 1909, Page 10

A LADY'S VISIT TO THE EAST

El' CIIAULOTTt: DEVERELT.. JKItUSALKM. We now returned to our hotel, and after lunch .-.ct out in a carriage to visit iJi'UileiK'in. As we li.ft t||c c itv j, v ,j le -lain I,«n>, our guide pointed out on our right t lu>- iu;u village iMiilt l,v Sir Moses Mol.tohore tor the , )o ur his TOU „. ! ry:"ou and very coml'oitable and up-to-date the hollies looked, with their white itono wa Is and red tiled ruok lNexti C , UII( , the market-place, situated in a deep hollow by the roadside; then the lower l'ool ot triiion, where Solomon was crowned king; then on our left we passed the fine buildings of the Urilish Opi.balinic Hospital— an institution whieli is badly ueeilwl it- this country, wfu'r- 1 diseases ol the eye tiro so common, J'urther oil we came to ;t rock on which, our guide gravely informed us, hlijah rested on his way to Mount Cartnel, ami on which he left the impression of his body! I. have never thought of Klijah as a "soft'' individual, but I cannot- believe ho was so "hard" thai '.lie mem contact of his body left au ii dentation on the solid rock. However, tome people think otherwise, for the Greeks have here a line building called the Church of the Kock. We passed several line dwellings i>i the midst of graves, iiml ranm lo llacliol's Tomb, a lour.hing memorial, when one considers the sail eircinustances of her death, This building is comparatively modern, but the site is regarded as gamine. About, a (punter of an hour after leaving liachel's Tomb we reached the outskirts of Bethlehem, and took our way through the narrow, dirty streets ot the town. We drove through au archway, and eiiteted a broad, open square, at the further end of which stands the Church of the Nativity. There arc no doubts entertained about the geuuinene-ss of Ibis site. The church was built in the fourth century by Constantino the Great, and St. Jerome, who was born here in 331 A.1)., tells us that there were old inhabitants living iu Bethlehem in bis day who well remembered the site of the ruined khau on which the church was built. It is a remarkably fine church, or, rather, churches, for it is owned by tile Latins,

tho llrooks, and the Armenians. Underneath the central platform is a crypt, which is reached by a tlight of stone steps, and which is known as the Grotto of the Manger, Here tradition has placed the actual scene of the Nativity, and a large silver siur fixed in the stone floor has this

inscription in Latin: Ilio de "Virgins Maria Jesus Christus natus est," and at a short Jisiance on a lower level is a lesser

star, indicating the place whore the manger stood, in which the new-bom infant was laid. The guide now lighted three

tapers, and handing cno to each of us, let! the way through a. passage cut ill tli'i solid limestone rod;, and passing along this, wo entered a chamber in which there was an altar with a picture representing the dream of Joseph, ordering the flight into Egypt, and beyond this was another chamber known as the Chapel of the Innocents—the traditional chamber in which was witnessed the scene of the massacre of the young children of Bethlehem. We were shown another chiviber containing the tombs of St, Jerome and his two famous female disciples. Paula ami Eustachia, and adjoining this chamber is the Chapel of St. Jerome, where this celebrated father of the curly Church is said

to have pusscd the greater part of his life, and whore, according to a tablet in the wall, lie made the translation of the Bible into Latin—known as the Vulgate. Each of the three religious sects has a monastery adjoining their own particular part of tlie church.

From here we visited the Chapel of the Mill;, and then walked through the principal street of the town in order to regain our carriage. At every step of the. way we were imporlnnod by the different. shopkeepers. who were here more anxious to dispose of their goods than in any place wo had yet visited. For the most parf. their thincrs were tawdry, brightly-coloured bead necklaces, bracelets, etc., but their specialty seemed to be in the carving or embossing of mother of pearl shells, at which work they are extremely clever, and many purchasers are foitnd among visitors. We were told that this work is so trying lo the eyes that in six years' time a pearl shell-carver's eyes are useless for this work, and he must then try and make a living in some other way. We had often read that the women of Bethlehem were considered the handsomest and best-dressed women in Palestine, and we certainly came to the same conclusion. The habit of carrying all burdens on their heads has given them an extremely upright carriage, and they certuinly uppeared to be taller, better develoned. and much better dressed than the native women I whom we saw in Jerusalem.

Wo left for our drive back fo tlio city, and on our way we passed some hundreds of worshippers returning to their homes from Jerusalem. We stopped for another look at Rachel's Tomb, aiitl farther on our guide pointed out a rich green field lying in the valley to our right, known as tho Field of Boaz—a purely traditional site. Before breakfast, next morning we paid ailother visit to I lie Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and early as it was llie place was

again crowded, and, as before, a number of Turkish soldiors were on guard to prevent the reverential but fanatical followers of the Prince of Peace from flying at each other's throats. Meanwhile in the courtyard of the church a brisk' trade was being carried on in the sale of firings of- beads, rcsarics, and blightly-coloured glass bangles —a change only in kind from the days of llie " money-changers and them that sold doves." We sot out with our guide up David street to the iTall'a gale, where he had arranged with a ma.n to meet u s with three; donkeys. My husband and the guides were provided with an animal each, and then left to look after themselves; but I had the undivided aitcntion of a tine-looking young Bedawin, who trotted alongside of mc

all the way to 1 joiliany. If one has plenty of time at disposal riding on a donkey is rather agreeable, but when the animal tries to run iho shaking is something awful. However, we got over tlio ground somehow, and I suppose donkev-riding is like everything else-it. ici|t'ires practice. We left, the city by the .la(Fa gate, passed around the walls to the Damascus gate, just past, which our guide pointed out what is now known as Gordon's Calvary—a rotky projection very .closely roscmbling a skull, of which two caves form the sockets for the eyes, This is now generally regarded as the true scene of our I/ord's crucifixion.

Our first stoppage was made at the tombs of the kin-js. so, leaving our doukevs in charge of ihe ]!od.iwin, our guide showed us over the place. An enormous amount of labour must have been spent in excavating Ihe solid rock and preparing Ihe chambers for places of sepulchre—hut in those times there was no eight hours' day and no minimum wage. Descending by broad rock-cut steps, 24 in number, v.e approached ihe front, which exhibits a sculptured cornice, which has broken down the portion remaining, exhibiting consideiable ornament greatly reduocd by lime and weathering. Entering, wt- (omul ourselves in a large subterranean court, SOtt b.v 30ft in extent, and at the further (or west) side we reached the rook-cut- portico, which led lo the actual lombs. At the immediate entrance to these cur guide called our attention lo n lolling stone, si ill lo he 'eon in its groove, which was formerly used to close up thd entrance. Lighting our lapers. we descended—not such an easy task considering how Ihe steps are worn,—and, slcoping very low, we entered tlio first small chamber prepared for the reception of the dead. Ilere were three rock-cut benches, on which hat! stood Ihe coffins, and above each there was a, niche for a lamp, the walls si ill showing I races of the smoke therefrom. On asking what had become of the collins and the !am]xs, we were told that this particular part of Palestine belongs lo Ihe French, and thai Ihe stone sarcophagi rial silver lamp.; had been removed to Paris, and are now te be seen in Ihe Louvre. We entered two or three more similar chambers, but they ditlered only in size, sonie having room for two coffins, some three, and some four—in all, rec?placlcs for over 70 bodies, 'llii- place was onc.i erroneously regarded as tht l burial place of the Kings of .liulah. bill the theory now is that they a.ro the fumilv catacombs of Helena Qu't:i of Adiebenc, who. becoming a convert lo .ludiaism, settle,] in Jerusalem alxiu! the year 48 A.n. She had a large family of children and grandchildren —one of her sons (Isaae) had 24 sons,—and I lifiy were all buried in a place described by Joseohi's and answering accurately to this position. We took ihe path now : for some distance around Ihe ."itv walls and over the top of the Mount of Olives, and on our way 111" cuid" nointed nut Mount Scopus, from which point Titus first beheld tho doomed city.

There are manv fine old olive frees on the mountain, which f „ r ive the pl.'iee a very ancient appearance-very airremible to tile mind, ljiit which is too quicldv dislracled by the immense modern Crock which the Russians have built, on the Rummit nf ibis mountain; indeed, so large and rngssivc are they that there is a suspicion that if Domical troubles occurred they could be used as forfjesjc?, p? .well places, of'

worship. In one of those churches wo wero shown a very lino specimen of ancient mosaic. It scorns (hat when digging for llie foundation of the church tlie workers came upon tin- banqueting hall of a Persian nobleman, and the lloor was laid in mosaics representing the different animals, birds li ; li, and fruits which were used at his table! This lloor was in a perfect state of preservation, and a chamber was built over it which now forms part of the church. From I the tower of this church there is a very extende \io\\ to bo had of the surrouudin ,r country, and conspicuous are the grov rocky hills of the soul hern distance, inergili" into an elevated softer purple Into—l he mountains of Moah,—with a faint sheen below indicating the locality of the Dead Sea. The way now winds down the valley leading to lieihauy. and there we again met our Russian pilgrims, whom we had left, at .hita, nearly a fortnight ago. Other steamers must have brought crowds, for instead of f„ur I nundred there appeared to be 10 times that number-indeed, the while, dusty road us we diwomlod lo join it seemed to'be thickly l otted with groups of them. I walked m'v donkey slowly past I hern, at the same time carefully scanning each face for any si^ na of intelligence, but I met. only with dis appointment The men were the Hurt clumsy stupid-looking specimens of humanity 1 have ever seen. With t|, pil . ~o lHl untrimnied beards, thick matto<!-looUin<' hair cut straight across at (he back, lon-lcggo'-l heavy boots drawn up over S(m ; o I.KuuWookmjj- shoppskin coats, am] fur cups, they looked more animals who might. have the capacity to work and sufl'or but never lo Hunk—ut least never to re,ism! lo any good purpose. The women wc- e scarcely belter than the men; even llie young among' them could scarcely he described us comely. They were only sturdier tl'ri" l"l'- '' W il B p ' l " s carried t .en hinldnig strapped to their hacks, and in their riyhl- hands each carried a stout walking stick. We noticed three poor « I ' l "•"uieu walking by themselves, who might have passed tor Maobelh's three weird sisters, so wilhored and wrinkled were thov tern, double with their ] o;u | s; nn ' c j leaning very heavily on their walking, sticks, they were st.il! phtckily trudgim- •' in an endeavour to keen in. with heir companions Among all this" crowd wo only noticed four persons who wore in any ,v,iv re ined-looking, and that was the pnest and three ladies, quietly dressed in black, who accompanied him. Thov must all have slept at the village of Bethany llie previous night, and wero now on their wav to the Jordan, where a clergyman whom we mot subsequently in Rome afterwards saw them. At the time we could not help wondering why people evidently so stupidlooking ever thought, of such a' thin" as a pilgrimage lo the Holy Land, or how they managed to raise the money even to travel in the comfortless way they were doiV but we have since learned Hint these piKrimagos are not- only encouraged, but, they are also subsidised by the Russian Government Urn; can only guess the reason for this but the thought arises that "Holy Russia' 1 does not jro to this expense, for" the solo benefit of her subjccls' souls. As we approached the village numbers of lepers, sat and by the wayside and a few. too horrible to be soon, lay on the ground, covered over with canvas," and an old jam or preservod-flsh tin stood boside here and there, into which the charitably inclined dropped their coppers. Arrived at Bethany, and wo were shown the house of Martha and Mary, with the tomb ot j„'i/arus adjoining. This was St. Lazarus's Day—a day peculiarly sacred to the Russians (Greek Church), and the street in front of the house and tomb was so blocked with these people that our guide explained that we might have to wait. "un'ij night before wo got a chance to see the tomb, as only one person at a time can descend the narrow steps which load down to it. To his evident surprise, we stated [hat; we had no wish to enter either the house or (he tomb; wo merely wished to see Bethany. On our way to the village lie had pointed out the exact spot at. which Mary met our I.oril when He camo to raise Lazarus from the dond, and on which spot the.Greeks ha.vc built a church and a convent. Truly, they are a wonderfully credulous people here. The knowledge which they assume to possess of exact .oc-ab(ics is something astounding. In one ot the churches m Jerusalem I was shown a short column, said to mark the exact conli'o of Hip oarfli!

Bethany lies in a quiet, sunny valley, wiili noiliing in its surroundings to tlx; nearness of a groat city/ and we "can well Micro that in the house of His three Sincere friends Jesus would find a quiet resting place when worn in bodv and mind ny Ins work in Jerusalem. We took some photographs here, and wo returned by a road whioh runs around tho side and over a slope of the mountain. At the foot of tho •Mount of Olives, and nearly adjoining Tolhsemaiio, stands the Crwk Church known as the Tomb of the Prophets. This is n new building, with gilded domes, appearing very conspicuous in the soft sunl'&iit. lliers are soine rock-cut gnivcs lieie. but I hero is no real reason to believe that any of the prophets are buried in this place, but these people seem always to lv looking for some excuse to build a. church, and with this object in view thoy can easily find what thoy want. Near this is the Church of the Creeds, so called Iweause it is believed that on this spot the Creed was first delivered to man: and not. far distant is tho Church of Pater Nosier, or the I-onl's l'rayer, hscauge on this spot, tradition says, the Lord taught, his disciples the prayer which is commonlv called bv His name.. We dismounted and entered this church, which was built by a pious, wealthy French lady, and in the entraneo hall we noticed 32 tablets running around the walls, 011 which were inscribed the Lord's Prayer in as many different languages. Following on, we soon readied an area, with some fine yew and aged olive trees, arid surrounded by a fine wall, a small oasis in this rocky valley, and w.itli feelings of deep reverence we entered the Garden of Cethsemano, which belongs to tho Latins, as the Roman Catholics are always called in this country. Tlie garden is now laid oul with well-kept paths and planted with flowers, while around Iho walls ■no tho 14 stations of the Cross. We lingered here for some, time.i then started on our way home, passing 011 our left the valley of .Tehoshaphat, in which stands tho picturesque stone building known as Absalom's Pillar. We were told that pious Jews, when passing this monument, rast a stone at it. in reprobation of his rebellion against his father David.