EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN OTAGO.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 13835, 23 February 1907, Page 14

EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN OTAGO.

liv 'J'HOSIAS MACKENZIE, M.H.R.

■ List Saturday's paper .should have closed the account, of our trip had 1 not wandered away to our land laws as applied to leases *of pastoral country. J'lm story of our out:-

ing, however, would be incomplete were I to omit one or two matters. 1 have also l>een asked by so many people how the trip to Milford, Sutherland Kail, nml To Auau can best be done that J will briefly give my opinion thereon. I will (leal with that, matter first, and purhaps I cannot, do better than describe the course we followed, ami which. I think, is the very best way to do that glorious trip. We left the Bluff on January 21 in the Hincniou, wiili just a 'perfect party of friends. Captain Bolloiu and everyone oil board did their utmost Io make our voyage a happy one. When we left the. BlufT the sky was all illuminated by tiie great bush liree then raging. We faced-a. stiff westerly gale through the strait, anil at last anchored safely in Otago's Retreat, j'tiysoguv. Laler on we entered Preserva-

lion Inlet, and after cruising round made for Chalky inlet, through Breakadrift Pos--1 sage. There was a tremendous sen, running, and the way Captain Bollons Handled tho littlo Ilincmoa. was something to re member. Brcakadrift Passage, has a historical interest. Some years ago my old friend Mr Arch. Fullerlon, of Port 'Chalmers, who was an apprentice, on tlio Acheron when she surveyed ihe coast! about 1850, Svas telling mo of a thrilling experience at that place. Tommy Chanland, who was piloting the Acheron, told Captain Stokes that lie could lake his ship through a passage he knew They were towing the Otago. Tommy tool; the vessel-through all rigid, hul the Otago broke adrift, and took shelter. Mr Fullcr--I<m then proceeded to jioint out. on tho chart about the place the accident occurred. , when I noticed on the map " Breakadrift Passage" marked. Why, that is the spot and the reason for ils mime, said lie, and .where we anchored for shelter at, Puysegur was called Otago's Retreat, because tho Otago took shelter there. Breakadrift Passage was a wild place, reefs on every hand mid scotching away for tniles on cither side. The sea was breaking most furiously and sending the spray high ill air. RESOLUTION ISLAND. Our next, call of importance was on our doar old friend, Mr Dick Henry, at Resolution Island. 110 was there io welcomo us. Mr Ilenry and the good work ho does is too well known to require enlarging' on. He still devotes himself. heart and miul to science in its truest sense. Kvery kindness it was possible to show he cx- ' Minded to all of us. He is very proud of nifi boat wilh tlio oil engine, which is a great help to him. He gave some of lis tino protographs of bird life, and to others bits of the wreck of'the old Endeavour. The time at his island homo .at'our disposal was all too short. It is 11 years pine© last- I was there, wnen Ilenry and our party explored the Seaforth "River and adjaoent country. After visiting Wet Jacket Arm 'and taking on board Messrs' Anderson brothers and their assistant Terry, where they had boon carrying on extensive mining operations for soma' •months, wc proceeded through many other beautiful sounds, finally reaching Jililford, the glory of which is only equalled by Crucked Arm of Doubtful Sound. The morning we entered Milford was perfeot. No description, however able, can convey an adequate idea of the grandeur of that sound, lior its' effect on the minds of thosewho are privileged to behold it. ' THE INLAND TRIP. Our next work was preparing for. the' inland trip. I had not been over that' ground since 1888, when Ihe Sutherland Waterfalls were measured and tlio M'Kinnoii Puss discovered. Tlictt our party of four travelled with heavy swags up Iho left bank of tho Arthur River, carrying with us a canvas boat, with which to cross Lake Ada, anil 1500 trout fry to . liberate somewhere bcyoncl Ihe lake. After building the boat we struck right, up the centre of the lalto. soon to be caught on' the sharp tree tops of the submerged forest. After three hours' work wc reached a river, and finally pitchod our tent on a low island. What a chango is seen on our present, visit. Our course now lay along a. splendidly-formed road on the right bank of the river, a well-equipped boat meets us at tlio lake, and we are rowed o'ver ils waters through a carefully marked passage, and so on to tlio falls by an excellent track. A whole day can be profitably spent between tho sound and the falls. There is so much to see. ,* It has been so often described that I need not enlarge. If Iho travollcr has a spare day, and cares to cxploro a. bit, ho will see much of interest, either up tho Joes River, or away to the west beyond the fulls. In 1888 our party put, in about a week in these places. If tho weather he lino a whole day should l be put in between tho Falls hut and I'ampalonn huts. This part of tho way includes M'Kinnon's Pass, and totals nine miles.

TAKE YOUR TIME, AND LOITER

Four out of every live tourists devote themselves to breaking (lie record for setting over distances. Don't be bustled, take your time, and loiter. Take time fo admire theso lovely alpine plants, or examine the interesting rock fipceimcus. Pause and bc-hold everything that interests you. We started with about a. dozen from the Falls Jiuts. After a time our party consisted of Sir J. Martin Smith, mv two boys, and myself. The others could be seen far ahead, going as if their lives depended on reaching the next camp about midday, wheo the afternoon could be devoted to killing sandflies. Wo enjoyed a. delightful day. The boys picked great bunches of beautiful flowers, and filled their pockets with geological specimens, whilst we sat down and yarned—now picking tip a curious stone, or watching an avalanche coming down from the Jervois Glacier across the gorge. I might here interpolate that we received a. closo visit from some vagabond keas, when my boys abandoned their botany and heaved their geology at the nnitton-loving scoundrels. It was a daj to bo remembered. Mv Inst trip over that' pass was very different, we met -MacKinnon Iho day he discovered tho .••addle, and afterwards joined him ill re- } timing to To- Anau. But we could not find the pass. We took the mountain ascent too soon. The track now goes along tho face, opposite tho saddle, and we could now plainly sco the great walls of rocks that time and again forced us back. After taking observations from Mount Elliot, wo again, tho following morning, made an early attack, and readied the top, which was then deep in snow. A blizzard came Tip, forcing lis to descend at onco down the Clinton Valley side over very steep faces. These brief notes may not, I venture to hop.}, bo without, interest in connection with MacKinnon's work. I had tho .assistance of Mr Smith, who is n. surveyor, in selecting a spot for Quinton MacKinnon's Cairn. Wo chose a sito whero on tho divide the waters part, one small, streamlet, flowing west and the other to the cast. There is a. flat rock some 20ft wido 011 which tho cairn could be erected. Tho view from the place is very fine, embracing tho Clinton Valley on the one Jiand and the still wider country away to the west on tho other. A MODEST MEMENTO. Should tho Caelio Society approve, and the eairn. be erected, it will serve as a modest memento to the memery of a man who bv his inlripod courage and endtiranco discovered a way which lias enabled many to journey in comfort, and to enjoy the wonderful grandeur of our western wilds. Nothing could bo more approoriate or more in harmony with Quinton M'Kinnon and his Taco than a eairn. lie was a I rue Celt and an honour to his clan. A cairn is essentially Celtic, and few travellers, I venture to think, will pass that way without remembering the old Gaelic proverb, "Cuiridh mi clach' ad charn " (I will add a stono to your mini), A CHARMING WALK. From the pass to Pampalona huts is an easy and charming walk, passing Lake Mintaro on tho way. Every point recalled memories of iho past, and if you, Sir, had space, and your readers patience, 'it. might not bo uninteresting to give an account of the reasons for many of tho names given by us to places on the way. 'Pampalona was <i 6ort of delicious pancake M'Kiniion used to make. Mr and Sirs Lynch, at Pamplona, may be depended on for supplying most excellent accommodation. The remaining 10 miles to Glade Houso is very easy and charming walking. The crystal Clinton River follows the path leading through forests of stately trees or across open stretches, where mountain ribboiiwoods were covered with lovely cherry liko flowers, trusses of sweet odour, filado House is a most charming spot. The .situation is perfect. Tho grounds have been laid off with great taste and judgment. Glade Houso is a delightful surprise. ■ Everything is simply first-class: whilst the kindness and consideration ohown by Mr and Mrs Harvey and family is beyond praise. Much of our comfort on. our exploration was due tp them and their admirable clicf. I have now reached the spot ill my 'story—namely. Lake To Anau,—where 1 -began the account of our journey, from that, lako to Lata iWak'atijni,, The'tourist

: continues his course down To Anan ami I onward via Lumedcii. Those wishing to do tlie trip can make the very most of it by taking steam to the sounds, tciitniiiig overlaud. A LITTLE EXPLORING. If I might veniuro io make a suggestion to parties of young folks going out fora holiday, 1 would advise tlioni. if they includo in llicir number any who have a knowledge of camping out and bushcrafl, to do a bit of exploring, (let away from the beaten path, explore some glen, river, or mountain, There is plenty of scope. Lakes arc still awaiting discovery, waterfalls ar? yet to be named, the treasures of the mountains! are nol. yel; all revealed. Should you he fond of plant, life, new varieties are to be found. Then there are our feathered friends, these unique denizens of the woods, whieh, alas! are yearly becoming rarer. The fen- remaining representatives of many I species are to be found only away back in the secluded recesses of ihe forests primeval and—sad it, is io think—ilw last, and possibly only, opportunities our people may | ever have of seeing- .some* of them is bygotUng uway back info sunny glens or shativ valleys wherein Hie fool of man has never trod. Yes. strike out for yourselves. You may then taste the ecstacy that comes from ■penetrating into these great, gardens of Nature, where flowers and shrubs and trees of rarest, form and beauty am growing pure and fresh, amid surroundings of majestic grandeur. What can surpass the fascination of anticipation when the traveller, with quickening steps, and after many tlifliculties surmounted, reaches some point, from whence lie. can obtain a glimpse into the unknown country which lies beyond'; TEXT J/IFJv. Then there is tho charm of tent lifo with the stories told round the glowing camp fires, tires the light, of which forms a cave-liko fairyland of greenery, surrounded by dark trees mid roofed in by leafy canopy through which an occasional star may be peeping. Hut, perhaps Hie grandest feeling of all is the glow of health and strength won by wholesome exercise and pure iiumntain air, and tho thrill of vigour that, «)tirses through your veins; and to those to whom it. is given to lie privileged to enjoy such blessings there should ever bo present, feelings of thankfulness and gratitude.

My story of our trip would be incomplete were I to omit saying bow much 'my companions i contributed to its ■ succcss and happiness. T'o Mr Birle.v I tender my heartiest thanks for all his kindness and care, also to Mr Murcott. for his painstaking attention and unvarying courtesy; whilst to Pasco (otherwise Mark Taplov) and Paulin (the fearless) I. desire to Bay that I never wish io have, nioro chocrful, canablc, or willing helpers. I purpose naming two rather fine waterfalls that como into tho Eglinton Valley "The Brothers," after my two boys Brueo and Clntha. Tho falls arc -near to each other and much alike. Perhaps the youngsters thittk they bad falls enough without having !any more mentioned. ' A SUGGESTION, i think tho Government should plant ! sonio small fruit trees at different places Jon 4ho iSoiite. Many spots are very suitable, and raspberries, gooseberries, cherries, ami currants, do amazingly well in similar And the Agricultural Department well try bow heather would thrive. .Whatever, money tlio Government wisely expend will, I fee! sure, be amply repaid. Switzerland and Italy .have nothing finer to llnttract in their scenery than has New Zealand, \and yet Switzerland obtains from her touristh yearly some £6,000,000 whilst X ■have Ijeard it stated that Italy maintains her army Sfrom tho revenue received from her 'tourist* traffic. Our colony must be the health jrccriiiting ground of Australasia, and with tiiio development of the' mercantilo marino we may expect the charms of our country to .early attract a constant stream of visitors from all parts of tho world.