THE MILFORD TRACE IN SNOW AND SUNSHINE.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 13543, 16 March 1906, Page 6

THE MILFORD TRACE IN SNOW AND SUNSHINE.

Ef Alts Lowth. [Copyright-.] So much has been written and exquisitely expressed about the beauties of that niagio panorama between Manapouri and Milford that nothing remains to be said upon it, and I shall confino my story to thoso more material aspects which in most eases, judging by the behaviour and criticisms of tho majority of people I met on Iho track, are Iho all-important factors of popular enjoyment.

The coach left Manapouri at 5 in tho afternoon, with a threatening sky overhead, and packed with gloom in the shape of five ladies who were unable to obtain box seats. It was evident that tho entire coach load was going to Milford, and, as they would probably be my fellow-travellers for a week at least, I viewed them with some interest. Only one man—and eight ladies! Dear me! This was rather a. lerriblo outlook. 'What would tho solitary specimen of the stronger sex do if the entire eight decided to faint at a crucial moment on the top of tlie pass? I regarded him more closely, and, discovering that ho was an English officer, decided that bo would prove equal to any strain, and shrink from no task! His wife and daughter were with him, and they occupied • tho box seat, while I sat. in single blessedness on the very much higher ono at the back of the coach—thankful that the five within were all too dignified to climb to that, elevated post.

I bad heard a great deal about the terrors of the road—" positively dangerous" one tourist had called it, and I was naturally anxious to see something so novel as a dangerously bad road in New Zealand. But, as usual, my expectations were doomed to disappointment. It was certainly rather rulty, and there were two or three little stony creeks to cross; but the driver was the most abominably cautious whip I have ever seen, and wo travelled as though the coach had contained fragile mummies being reverently carried to a last resting place! Ho put on tho brake long before the top of tho rise was reached; he negotiated any small inequalities with painful tenderness; awl came almost to a full stop at tlie creeks. If Tate, decrees that tho gentleman has to drive in Africa ho will certainly turn grey at the first donga, and rave boforo tho first spruit in flood!

In duo time we reached To Anau; and a frantic rush was made to catch Mrs Fraser's ear lest one should bo more favoured in regard to rooms than another. But that most tactful of hostesses contrived to please everybody, and before very long grievances wcro all forgotten in the discussion of a very welcome and appetising meal. Mrs Fraser is one of the very few people in this country who realise that travellers do not leave all their love for privacy at heme. Nothing could well be more objectionable than the system of putting strangers together into one room: it is had enough to hxve- to share a bedroom with an intimate but out hero the hotelkeepers think, it Quite, absurd to object to a room-mate one has never seen before, or, perhaps, has seen too clearly! At Te Anau there is a row of rooms outside the main building—tiny rooms, but. so much tho belter, sines by no 'possibility could more than one bed, and tlra-t a single, one, bo squeezed in: and there aro plenty of double rooms for those who like them in the house itself.

The steamer wa.s to leave the wharf at 7 next morning, so. everyone retired early. And before long the threatening clouds of Iho afternoon fulfilled their promise: rain fell in torrent?, and was still battering on the iron roofs when the voice of the housemaid proclaimed that it. was 5.30 and time to r.mi.

It was very cold, and 3. mantis of fosr liid tho hike and mountains from view. We all put on overcoats, and, wrapped in ruas, sat hopefully on tlio deck of the little steamer awaiting the moment when the far-famed glories of Te Anau should burst upon our enraptured graze.

But meanwhile the fog was melting into a downpour; the waves were becoming higher and higher, until they broke over the all-tco-low bulwarks. And at last the slrongcstminded' among us was forced to yield and go downstairs.

The saloon was not tho plcasantnst place in thn world. Small, with windows not mado t» open; the cushions on its seats of straw stuffed into earpet-covcr.s, and leaking in every direction, its stuffiness was almost unendurable. Three more ladies had joined our original eight. Two we.ro lying full length at one end of the saloon: a. third was reclining against a stack of bundles and liaga on a seat; one was busily writing in the bla.nk pages of an " itinerary "; an oldish lady, who was travelling with two daughters ov nieces, was scribbling for dear life in a. diary; anol.hor sat on the steps; and the others were chatting, discussing the Waikare trip. I sat in a corner, too cold and wretched to read or write, and surveyed them all between do'sful glances at tho windows 6wept with water!

At last, it cleared after about three and a-half Jiours of fog and rain, and I went out to watch the changing views of the upper reaches. They wero a fine sight, but when the colli lias discovered one's inmost recesses, ami Hie wind is blowing bitter draughts around one, snow-topped hills and a waste of grey waters scarcely appeal to the right chords.

So everyone was extremely glad to arrive at the little wharf near tlio Clinton River. One of the new ladies had a husband with her, so that we were 13 in all. but only 11 were bound for Milford. Mr Inspector, who was in charge of the track, met me, and very kindly offered to escort me himself, and, acting on his advice, Dr and Mrs C. and I decided to stay overnight at Glade House. But all the others went on—Major A. the only man among seven ladies, five of theni spinsters. They one and all disdained the idea, of guides, and set off most valiantly, some carrying big "swags," some carrying small, and several none at all. Wc stood on the verandah watching them go off, and l Mr Inspector had a retrospective smile on his face.

"They start olf so smart and so gaily," he said. "They are always tlio same; but you should see them come back!"

We could not 'help laughing, though it was distinctly alarming to hear sucli a warning nolo thus carlv. But tho seven were a most sportsmanlike party—skirts to their knee?, and good, sensible boots. All with the exception of one, who was travelling in black cashmere, with a skirt of ordinary length, looked very promising. It was fine wlien they left, but an hour or so later the rain began again, and wo wondered if their resolution to get to Min. taro huts for the night would hold out beyond Mid-camp.

The much-talkcd-of and greatly-feared sandflies had rather bothered as on our arrival, but after we had rubbed various concoctions on faeo and hands we found that they left, us comparatively in peace. And .16 they did not trouble us at all after lights were out wo slept hi peace. Wo sat down to a most bountiful breakfast next morning. Porridge, hot scones and toast, home-made bread, bacon, eggs, chops, ham, marmalade, jam, honey, and butter, with coffee or tea, formed the menu, and it was excellently served, and a very great advance in every way on the meals supplied at most country hotels. Yet the charge is only 2s 6d, though, every pound of food has to be brought by_ coach or waggon and steamer. But still greater marvel of catering was foeforo us. Wo started at about half-past 9 on a fresh and sunshiny morning. We strolled leisurely through the leafy glades along the banks of the turquoise-bluo Clinton, stopping now and then to wake some of the great trout lazily lying in the sunny spots of the clear, deep water. They were so tame that when aroused they swam straight to the bank to inspect us! We arrived at mid-day at the three huts which make ." Mid-cajcp," and found the others had only gone on that morning. Tho huts are each about H by 12, built of wood, with a square corrugated iron chimney-place pitting out of the wall the door is in. Bunks are built round two sides-eight in all, and two deep. These bunks are most ingeniously fitted with spring mattresses of wire netting nailed to the framcSj with a good kapok mattress on each, two pillows, and blankets galore. To protect the cccupants from draught the two walls against which the bunks are built aro lined with linoleum. There is a strip of cocoa matting on the floor, and each hut contains a big table, two targe enamelled wash-basin 3 and jugs, soap dishes, etc., and a mirror.

We were not particularly hungry after our good breakfast, but we meant to stay at' Mintaro for tho night,' so we lunched here, and the cook in charge gave as pea soup, tinned tongue, fresh potatoes, and green peas, the best bread I have ever tasted, and delicious butter, apricots, cheese, marmalade, and biscuits; charge, 2s,

5Ve. dawdled about till g n'dssk,.. .taijng

photographs, getting nails put into our boots, and watching the Maori liens, which are -the most impudent birds in creation. And we arrived at Mintaro, just comfortably tired, at about $.30.

There are only two huts at Mintaro, and an " overflow " tent, the men sleeping in tho kitchen hut. The cook bad had our advance party for dejeuner a !a. fourchette, and another party bound for Glade House for luncheon, so that he bad not had timo'to clear up before we arrived. But with the help of Dr GVs guide and somo minor - assistance from all of- us. the place was 60on shipshape, and Mr Inspector had built up a roaring log fire for Mrs 0. and me. Wo had the ladies' but all to ourselves, and it was easy enough for one to go for a stroll while ihs other had a hot tub in comfort.

Dinner was ready by 7—hare soup' (equal to ox-tail), salmon, corned beef, potatoes and peas, apricots and rice, bread, biscuits, butter, jam, cheese, coffee or tea. And just before going to sleep we had a- cup of cocoa to keep out the cold!

It was a glorious star-lit night, with a touch of frost in the air. The river looked very beautiful flowing between' its fernclad, bush-shadowed banks, and the tuls were making music that roused the carping jealousy of the Maori hens, who screeched in envy. We went to bed rejoicing in tho thought of a fine clay over the pass, and both Mrs C. and T vowed wc bad never been so comfortable and cosy since wo arrived in New Zealand as we were in our kapok nests, with the firelight dancing on the brown boards, and the great logs hissing and crackling a pleasant lullaby.

But before morning tho noise of rain on the iron roofs awakened us. We made up (lie fire, and turned in again, grumbling at. the persistency of Pluvius, and hoping ho would tako his departure before we started.

It was still raining hard, however, and the ground around the huts was a morass when we went across to breakfast. We discussed our plans over the. porridge, and by tho timo we had l finished our grilled ham decided that, we would 6top for the night at Beech Huts, as the walk over the pass id the wet would 1» tiring enough for one day. The rain bad dwindled to a drizzlo when we left Mintaro, but before we wcro half-way-up Iho pass if was snowing hard, and a perfect gale of wind was blowing. We struggled along, nearly blown away in crossing the saddle, and unable to see a single peak, for the wholo country was enveloped in mist. The track was, of course, quite hidden by snow, lvhich must havo fallen heavily in the night, for it was a good many feet, deep in most parts. Luckily, it. was fairly crisp, excepting where little streams crossed and thawed it. But the descent was simply a tortuous waterway. The water, running in every direction oft' tho bills, had melted tlie snow into mud. Every few yards there were pools wo had to wade through, and the stones w?ro sll loose and very slippery, so that on that narrow, winding, precipitous, and very rough track we were in momentary peril of being pitched headlong down the stony cliffs into the valley thousands of feet below. Only one scrap of comfort wc had: the wind was blowing the clouds away, and every now and then we had glimpses of gigantio peaks and mountain masses, gliurosos that were like draughts of water to the thirsty, for thev assured us that tho everlasting hills were there, behind the concealing clouds, and they spoke of cdad to-morrows when the promise of to-day's fleeting joys should lw fulfilled.

We halted, breathless and wet to the. skin from head to heel, in the little hut at the foot of tho bill to boil a " billy" for tea. before* doing the long two miles downhill to tho Beech Huts. Mrs C. and I wanted to go on, fearing that the pause there would make us feel chilled and stiff, but as the guide had already made a fire, and Mr Inspector seemed to think a spell necessary, we meekly obeyed orders.

In 15 minutes we wcro off again, and l/oho'.d! in the interval the rain had ceased and the sun appeared. Tho valley, with its sentinels, was a splendid sight, though the peaks were still hidden in cloud. It looked like a.n immense arena, in which a mighty bottle with stone missiles bad taken place, and which, descried now and irrey ■with the dust of deadly strife, awaited in loneliness the coming of ono who would clear away the remnants of the avalanches, straighten- the twisted streams, and restore order where chaos now reigned supremo.

Wo turned a corner—a.nd vfo were in a new world! Wo had left the "Trey battlefield for a peaceful green hamlet, through which ran a highway—a torrent hurrying over a- Vtnnldor hod with splash and dash, as the couriers who mieht have galloped tn tell the tale of the fight. The. " hamlet" was beautiful—forest trees with their climbing vines, tree-ferns and their million minor relation s : cumin's nf fragrant. oxc(uisitr>. n!.fli" , y-l)los«nmecl syrinpa: emerald, bronze. proklet), and silver mps=P3: and everywhere runninir watci\ in trickling rivulet*, musical mountain rills, or murmuring, foamv cascades. Two miles r.f it—and then wo crossed a plo.nl: lindpe over tlie " highwav." and were at rh» T!e?ch Hut?.

With what, thankfulness "we regarded them, for oh, we were weary! ftcst at last, and chancre into dry clothes, and the welcome warmth nf a liitr ion- fjr». hot wnfpr to bathe our cold and achine feetall these we anticipated joyful!'-, supposing Hint th» eieht had rone, on to Sutherland's, since they had arrived here yesterday afternoon. And with what a crash our ensile d'espagno fell to the ground!