A ROUND-THE-WORLD TOUR.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 13518, 15 February 1906, Page 10

A ROUND-THE-WORLD TOUR.

DUNEDIN TO GREAT BRITAIN, VIA SUEZ CANAL. RETURNING VIA CANADIAN-PACIFIC THROUGH CANADA AND THE ROCKIES. Ilv R. Chisiioi.m. NO. XII.

Wo found Carlisle a quaint old English (own still retaining some of the old customs of bygone years. Near the centre of tho town, in a prominent position, is feen a ' notieo board stipulating the toll that must be paid to tho town clork on all sorts of animals and merchandise cither being brought, into or Bent out. of the town. It matters not how Ihc articles are being conveyed, whether in the hand or on wheelbarrows, cart,or other vchiclc, toll is chargcable and must bo paid. Tho continuance of such a custom is probably duo to the fact that the town rovenuo is considerably increased from this source. Like in most other, towns, the overhead system of electric trams prevails. The gauge they have adopted is the narrowest I have seen (about 3ft), necessitating slower running than is usual. The intersecting of many railway lines makes Carlisle a centre of some importance, and here, as in many other centres, the hotel accommodation immediately alongside the railway station is not only convenient for travellers, but most comfortable. Taking train for London in tho morning we were pleased to find among the passengers a lino specimen of the young New 'Zc-alandcr, a son of a wellkiiown M.11.R. and tho worthy Mayor of Roslyn for somo years. He joined us in our apartment, and. needless to say, wc v?cro delighted with his company and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation and fellowship. The journey to tho metropolis was made interesting and pleasant by hearing and recountingourcxpericnces in travel, and the timo was all too short to say all we could lave wished. We were not so absorbed in conversation as to miss seeing thobeautiful scenery of England through which wo v.-cro passing, one feature of which is the number of trees that are. lo bo scon, look where you may. Trec-s in file lip.3gcrov.-s and out in the field Where the crops v;c eaw promised .1 magnificent yield.

With smiling- homesteads in the distance and sleek cattle grazing on richest green pasture, the country all around was a landscape picture of surpassing beauty. Arriving at Etiaton Station, after an exchange of mutual good wishes and an oxnressed desire that before long wo would have the pleasure of seeing our friend at Roslyn we had to part, he to enjoy a brief respite from study, wo to spend a few days in Londou prior to joining our steamer at Liveniool. One of the sights of London is tho House of Parliament, and as we had not had an opportunity of seeing it during our last visit wc resolved to see it on this occasion. Through the courtesy of tho Atrcnt-eenenilV, oflice wc secured tickets for admission, and certainly saw what we novel' expccted to sec. Looking at soino of the fine pictures that grace one of the many halls we were surprised to see amongst the many visitors present a lady and gentleman whom we know well, from the Kaikorai, near Duncdin. Expressions of pleasure and astonishment at such an unexpected meeting in Parliament House, London, and an exchange of news, and we were off to see what could be seen. As it was Saturday all the building was open to visitors, and we had every opportunity of looking round. That the building is an imposing structure goes without, saying. Every consideration for the convenience and comfort of both Lords and Commons exists. There is nothing special or striking in oither of the chambers where tlicv meet. When, however, on a subsequent occasion. I saw the members in their places and listened to the speeches of the Prime Minister and leader of the Opposition, it seemed like a transformation scene instead of an array of empty bcnchcs. All was life and activity, and one really felt one was where the councils of the nation assemble. The speech of the leader of the Opposition was a humorous, racy, and pointed criticism of the Administration. Ho made a strong point of Lord Roberts's recent utterances on the inefficient state of the British army. When the Prime Minister rose to reply lie wa.s cool and deliberate, and while lie spoke to the point, his speech lacked the vigour and fluency of that delivered bv the leader of the Opposition. A member representing eomo constituency in Ireland next rose to inake his maiden, speech, butafter listening to him for a short time I thought in a city like London I would have little difficulty in occupying my time to better advantage, and so made room for someone else. Ma-nv of tho members, espeinally those on tho Government side of the House, seemed to view tho situation in much the same light, and empty benches became somewhat, numerous. Joining my companion out-sido as Big Ben struck 4, together ire had a pleasant walk through St.. James ant) Hyde Parks, afterwards visiting tho Kensington Museum. Here the neatest care has been exercised, and excellent taste displayed in the setting up and arranging of the numberless fine specimens of animals, birds, etc., that are to be seeu so true to life and so natural in their surroundings. Strolling along the street froox tho Museum wo had another pleasant surprise in meeting, along with Jiis daughter, a well-knomi and respected gentleman that occupies a prominent position in tho business life of our City of Duncdin. He was looking fresh and vigorous, and, like myself, was baffled in ins efforts to grasp the significance of the rush and bustle of the great- citv. Several talis to say good-bye to those whose friendship was pleasant, and who had added much to tho enjoyment of our stay in London, and wp aa*e ready to continue our journey. Taking train from Euston Station in the

morning, and running through some of the finest • country in the south of England, we arrived at Lime Street Station, Liverpool, early in the afternoon. Liverpool, of all other places in Great Britain, is, perhaps, the most interesting from a shipping point of view. The docks seem to be most substantially constructed, and the accommodation- and arrangements for berthing vessels of any tonnage most- complete. Every shipping company of any importance has its own docks, where every facility in the way of sheds and warehouses for the receiving, storing and delivery of goods is provided. In other respects Liverpool seems to vie with Glasgow in its electric tram system, gas, and _ water supply, which are all undor municipal control, and worked, as far as one can see, in-the best interests of thecommunity. All the electric cars are double-deckers, and the arrangement adopted to prevent the possibility of anyone getting under the cars is simple and effective. The regulations for preventing over-crowding, if they exist at all. are honoured more in the breach than in tho observance; and if you can find standingrobin anywhere it is quite admissible, but cortainly far from comfortable. In Liverpool. as in most other large cities, many of the suburbs have been absorbed. One suburb, called Rootle, has strenuously and persistently declined every overture towards amalgamation. This is an exceptionally prosperous suburb, where, on the kind invitation of close friends we had met in New Zealand last year, we stayed and enjoyed ourselves to the full. In the course of half a century the population has increased from a few thousand to between 60,000 ard 70,000, and the municipality is justly proud of its rapid growth and develop--ment. Their institutions are numerous and modern. Thoy havo their public library and reading rooms, which are largely used, especially by those employed about docks. Their public baths are exceptionally well arranged and managed. In addition to a number of bath rooms suitable for all classes, they have two very large swimming baths under cover, 100 ft long, 50ft wide, 4ft deep at one end, and 7ft at the other, lined on bottom and incased all round with white, enamelled brick. Tho sea wator is pumped from, the harbour and passed through a fdtcr heatod to -whatever tenv pcrature is required, and run into the baths clean and pure. They are flushed out regularly twico or three times a week. The .strictest- supervision over those using the swimming baths is oxercised. Largo halfround spitoons are fitted all round the sides for tho convenience of those expectorating'or inhaling too much water, and if anyone is discovered in any way pollutingtho water he is instantly expelled and severely punished. An idea, of how clean they aro may be gathered from .the fact that when I saw them they were about to - bo flushed out, and I could see the bottom distinctly at tho deepest end. The technical school is a model in design and arrangement; the various classrooms, workfhops, and laboratories in their fittings and appliances being most complete. The, managing committee ha?, been fortunate in securing tho services of .. secretary wlio is not only courteous and obliging to visitors but competent and enthusiastic in - his ■ work. A word of praise is' also due to their excellently equipped fire brigade and station. I have heard a good deal in various centres about their _ fire brigade, but in the matter of equipment and efficiency Bootlo could hardly be excelled. Tho men eJI reside 'in of. jvjijun a few yudj of

• the station in houses specially erected for their accommodation, The station and buildings are comparatively new, haying recently been erected and finished at a cost; of about £30.000. Everything, even to (ho simplest detail, seems to have received careful consideration. Simply touching an electric button signals the alarm to every .man or (lie brigade, and switches on the olectrio light in his room. In order to expeditiously make, the descent from tho upper floor, where many of the firemen sleep, ut convenient spots a smooth round' pole runs through a circular aperture 'in the floor, down which the firemen skid quicker than words can express it. "Just stand here," said an obliging attendant who was .showing us round, and,' pulling a line suspended from tho ceiling, stable and station doors flew open, and 1 the horses rolcascd rushed from tho stable and stood one on each side of tlie pole,,when the, harness dropped into position, and the driver, mounting his scat and securing the reins, was ready to proceed to the scene of operations in 10 ecconds from the time of the alarm being given. My friend to whom I was jimch indebted for all I saw in Liver. pool and Rootle, being a J.l'. or magistrate, was naturally desirous to show the excellent arrangements for the administration of justice, and excellent they are. Tho police station and court room arc under one roof, and the consideration extended to J.l'.'s in the discharge of their duties might well bo followed by our Liberal Government in New Zealand. The clerk of the police court is a lawyer of the first rank, able to advise on all points of law. A comfortable room adjoining the courtroom is provided where tho presiding justices can retire am l considor their deci-

sion. I don't know whether or not th( J.P.'s and police in Liverpool are i superior class of men to what wo have in Dunedin, but this I did observe: that thej respcct each other's position. A niembei of tho police forco is never seen to pas; a J.P. without saluting him as he would a superior officer, while the J.P. invariablj acknowledges the compliment. Every consideration i.i extended to the members ol tho police force when off duty, a spacious hall or reading room, with billiard table and all necessary; fittings and furnishings for their entertainment and improvement being provided. The Town Hall and Muni, cipal Buildings very much rosemblo our own, only here again the consideratencss of the authorities jp seen in that, in addition to the Mayor's room which is larger and more business-looking than ours, they have provided a nicely-furnished room, wliioh is exclusively, placed at tho disposal of the Lady Mayoress for the* purpose of recoivmg and entertaining ladies; and why not when women formsolargeand, as many think, so important- a section of the community? Recognising the difficulty that is experienced and t-lie injury to streets in li/ling mid renewing .wornout or damaged •tram rails, n simple, yet somewhat ingenious, catenf. has been secured by tho council

' that does away with the necessity of lifting the under part- of the rail or to any great ex- , tent disturbing the street. The rail is mado r in two parts. The lower portion is secured ; on to sleepers and concrete in the usual ' wav with a groove about- 2in deep and lin ! wide on the upper edge. The tipper por- , tion, on which the wheels of the car ran, ( has a tontiKo corresponding to the groove ; of the under part, and is secured to same ( when placed in position with short sec- ' tidnal holts and nuts. Laid in this way, the 1 vai|s to all_ appearance arc as secure and ; iigjd as if in one oiece. and the advantage j claimed is that when the ton part- of the rail is worn or damaged it can bp .-eplaced - with little trouble and much less damage to the street abutting tho rail. Our good friends with whom we were staying were desirous that we should not leave England without seeing Chester, one of the quaintest, if not the quaintest, old town in England. A short journey bv train from Liverpool brought- us to this interesting and pretty little town. Many years ago it was encircled hv a wall built by the Romans, which still stands in a- state of '|-erfec-t preservation. It is broad enough on top to admit oi two or three persons walking abreast, and is a favourite promenado with tourists and visitors, eon-.mn-nding a fine view of the town from every noint. round its en fire length. As the town has extended considerably since the wall was built a variety of more modern buildings has been erw-ted outside _ the wall, making it even more interesting as a promenade. A walk along some of the main streets scon convinced us that we were in the meat typical old Kngr lis.li town we had yet- seen. The upper portion of many of tho low, two-storey buildings project- to the outside of the footpath and are supported by strong pillars from tho kerbstone, forming a sort of verandah underneath. In other parts of tho town two rows of shops lined one side ofi,the street, the upper ones being, set back 10ft or 12ft, thus forming a path that width in front and forming a roof to tho lower shops, which are entered from the street, while tho upper row is approached by stairs from the street at various convenient points. It was certainly to us a novel experience to see two streams of people, one on the upper and one on (lie lower footpath, admiring the articles displayed in the windows or bent nn making their purchases. Like most English towns, Chester has its Cathedral—a large, imposing structure, beautiful in design and richly ornamented. The external appearance is somewhat- marred by the defective red sandstone of which it is built crumbling away in many places; and although an effort has been made to renew it in parts, it has a patched appearance. The interior is elaborately finished and in a perfect state of preservation. Passing along the main street a quaint old house with tho inscription _ '• God's providcncc is mine inheritance " is pointed out as " Cod's Providence House.Many years ago, when the plague was raging all around, the inmates of this house were almost miraculously preserved, as the plague came not nigh their dwelling. A little further along the street wo enter and have luncheon in a well-known reskept by a Mr Bollarids, who has , the distinguished honour of being selected as the confectioner to supply all tho l?oyal . wedding cakes. Whether from this cause : or not I am not prepared to say, but that : we all appreciated tho meal that was set ] before us was quite apparent, and i led to a more complete enjoyment i of the treat that , was still before us. Being built, on the margin of the river i Dee lends an additional charm to this in- I teresting little town, and afforded us another I means of spending a few pleasant hours. Steaming up tho river's winding coureo 'tween grassy banks and wooded bowers affording shade and shelter to the apparently f happy occupants (male and female) in many I of the sprightly-looking pleasure boats that . dot it« surface, we soon arrive at Eaton 1 Hall, a charming summer resort owned ' and ocoupied by tho Duke of 'Westminster, i Here we leave the steamer for a time, and I roam without let or hindrance through tho I beautiful park adjoining the Duke's palatial ' residence. Like most of the parks in 1 England, a feature o! the landscape is the I many avenues of fine old oak trees where ■ wide-spreading branches and giant trunks 1 tell that they have weathered the storms of ( centuries, and now afford shade to the s herds of Highland cattle and spotted deer ' that, unmolested, we see quietly feeding < all around. Returning by the steamer 1 the delightful calm of the summer eve lias tempted tho disciples of Isaao Walton to 1 take up their position at many points 1 along _thd river bank, plying the rod and line with commendable patience and little ' success, as no fish weTe being caught. A quaint old_ mill with water wheel on the opposite side of the steamer, landing is pointed out as tlio spot where lived and \ worked the miller of Dee, made memorable , in, song, where his selfishness finds expres- ; sion in the chorus "I care for nobody, no , not I, and nobody cares -for me." With s appetites whetted by tho pleasant. after- ', noon's outing we leave the steamer, and in , an. incredibly short time find ourselves back ] -in t.he samo restaurant wc had visited t a lew hours before. Another exhibition j of Mr Bollands's excellent catering and our appreciation of the same, and wo return to Boot-le delighted with our visit j to tho old town of Chester. Crossing the ; River Mersey—that magnificent waterway ( that has make Liverpool what it is to-day— j we arrive at Birkenhead, whero many of i the merchants and well-to-do of Liverpool , ie6ide,' and, where, through tho kindness j of friends, wo spent a very pleasant after- , noon. Lining tho face of a gentle slop- ( ing hill, a beautiful view of -the Mersey, r with all the docks and shipping, and Liver- i pool in the distance, is obtained from i almost any point. Proceeding along the , hilltop on a path profuse on either side with heather in its richest purple colouring. . we could hardly imagine we were in Eng- j land,_ and without the slightest intention of giving offence to our English friends, expressed our surprise that Scotch heather should find congenial soil lin England i: and look just as well as it did on "the more rugged slopes of the Grampians. We returned by another route through sumirbs rendered beautiful bv many handsome brick I villas richly decked with ivy and other t( creeping plants. -After a rather steep descent through tufts of yellow gorse and purple , heather wo arrive at an underground ' station in Birkenhead, and, passing through a tunnel in an electric car with the river Mersey bearing on its bosom the fleet of many nations overhead, we emerge at the other 6ido by an elevator into the streets i: of Liverpool. Getting on to an electric o car we were soon with our friends - in I Bogife,/xtsfejs; undef.ih.eii: Itaspitobis. rf)p£ li

r talking of tlio plcasuro our visit, to LiverJ pool had afforded us. Next morning' we ; wore astir getting everything packed and i in readiness for our departure'from the Homeland whero lor the past four months wo had enjoyed ourselves in weather 'thatwas delightful, and experienced much kindness that was at once spontaneous and real from all whose friendship we had been privileged to share. (To be eonlinued.)