A VISIT TO ENGLAND AND THE CONTINENT.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 13180, 13 January 1905, Page 3

A VISIT TO ENGLAND AND THE CONTINENT.

SOME IMPRESSIONS BY A WELLKNOWN DUNEDINITE.

Writing from Paris on 28th November, Mr T. W. ICcmpi'norao sends ics the following interesting jottings on his travels, which we have his permission to publish for the information of our readers:—

I had a most "enjoyable two. months in and about Loudon.. The weather, with tho exception of the last weok, was most enjoyable. November is the mouth for dense fogs, and certainty they were thick—you could not see across trie streets. So I thought the time, for disappearing had come, and on the 22nd inst. I took train to Dover, went across the Channel to Calais, and, for tho first time, hailed La Belle Franco. I lifted my hat when I got on tho pier. In London I first visited Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral. Tho former, to my thinking, is by far the most interesting place in London. During my stay, when not engaged in business, I have visited all the chief places of interest, others which, perhaps, I might have better let alone. Being, however, on an educational course it was necessary to seo the worst of things, and as much as possible of the best. I yeut to all tho theatres and music ha'ls pretty-well in London. As to music halls—which, by the way, are the ohief attractions in London— I found them run on pretty much the same lines—comedy. High jinks, singing, dancing, fascinating feminine gymnasts, -and 1 contortionists, with stage effects producing amazing glitter and variegated colourings, and for final display—concentration of all that had gone before—a perfect blaze of electric-lighting and stage movements to bring down the house and make the audience all keen for the following night. One of the leading principals of the Pavilion died whilst. I was in London. I. saw him p'aying a week before. Thev grieved for that man, "Dan Leno," and' visited his grave in multitudes. It is very questionable had the Prime Minister passed in his cheeks if lie would have received anything ■ like such attention. All these inusic halls and theatres are filled nightly, It' ia a rare thing to seo an empty scat. At the. Gaiety the opera "Orchid" is still running. At the Apollo the opera "Yeronique; at Daly's the opera "Oingalee" (a splendid' show, by far outshining the ethers); at His Majesty's Theatre Shakespeare's "Tempest," Mr SBccrbohm Tree taking the character of Caliban—wonderful stago business, but for the 'caller there is nothing ✓very special in the character beyond the make-up. The place, however, is crammed nightly. This play is seldom staged, but Mr Ties is a big draw, and the stazo effects magnetise Ihe crowd. At the Ad'elphi "The Prayer of tho Sword" is tho attraction—splendid acting, plot improbable and ridiculous in ils working, but beautifully staged, and the acting simply perfection. At the A ; audcville, also a big draw-, " The Catch of the Season "—a vory finc show, the catch" being a duke. At Wyndhain's, " Wife Without a Smile "; at Duke of York, "Merely Mary Ann"; at the Criterion, "Widow Brooko" (leading actress, Miss Ada Reeve, the .best actress I have seen iu London); at tho Lyric, "The Earl and tho Girl" (a big draw and a very good show); at the l'rinoe of Wales, "Sergeant Brice" (one of the most comical pieces in London; side-splitting fun). The Hippodrome and Ifingler's Italian Circus are well worth seeing. In the former the section Siberia is particularly exciting. Mounted Russian soldiers and military waggons, drawn by two horses each, are in pursuit of escaped prisoners, who manage to 6wim across a big lake in the centre of the building, 16ft deep,, and on coiiks soldiers and horse waggons, driven at full; gallop over tho embankment into the lake, some swimming, somo drowning—a. fearful mix-up, which excitement ought to bo good enough for tho .most exacting. At the Italian Circus th.ey have an army of trained dogs, monkeys, and bears, educated to imitate human actors on the trapeze, and other circus business, which is an amazing development of animal instinct, or sense. Apart from London sights, I had a really good time. A nephew of mine is very fond of motoring, and has a very fine machine. He took me over hundreds cf miles of country. Motors of the best class are delightful things to travel in, but an awful nuisaneo to all others who arc not riding in thcin, and who have to get out of tho way. They arc barking at you everywhere. Over 10,000 are registered in London. There aro also numbers of motor 'busses, and one is safe in .predicting that in a few years at the most they will have full possession of London streets, and every form of conveyance will be moved by motor power, and tho horso will be a rarity. Tho speed at present is limited to 20 miles an hour, or less in tho city; but tho congestion is so great that iu most places they canuot progress at one-fourth of this speed, as they have to follow tho line of trallic. When, however, one gets into tho country on the smooth English roads, and the coast is clear, "let her go!" By jove, it is tho poetry of motion. Fancy leaving London and getting to Brightou in a motor under two hours.' Tho last time I went to Brighton (my nephew driving his. own car) wo got there in one hour and throe-quarters,from Wimbledon. England is a garden! How lovely the country looked throughout September. Our New Zealand green cannot match it. I had a fortnight at Bournemouth, tho most charming place I have seen. In walking through ono of tho beautiful gardens, I was surprised to meet Mr and Mrs George Gray Russell, and gratified to see Mr Russell in the best of health and his wifo also very well and iu high spirits. Mr and Mi's Russell are so taken with Bournemouth that they have dccided to permanently resido there'? Alxjut .Bournemouth there are such a number of interesting places —Boocoinbe, Swanage, Wiinborne, and the "Minster" there (one of the very oldest churches in England), Christchureh also, and " The Priory" (situated on the River Avon, but at this point the river is not so pretty as our Christchureh Avon). "Corfo Castle" is also in the district, about'the oldest ruins—one of Master Cromwell's destructions.

I had a run over to the Isle of Wight, Portsmouth, and Southampton. I saw the ileet at Portsmouth t..e day that the King and Queen of Portugal arrived. It was a splendid day at Portsmouth, but very foggy in London. My nephew and I got a boat and sailed all around and through the fleet - 28 battleships and cruisers, to ma an unusual and imposing sight, and worth going a long way to see. I have relatives at Wimbledon and Richmond, who wore kind to mo beyond expression, and they gave me a thoroughly good time. I 'wont through Hampton Court, and also had a thorough look through Windsor Castle under the escort of one of tlie court officers. I was much interested in this splendid building. Thoro is now only remaining a very small part of the original building— namely, one of tho rooms of Queen Elizabeth, and (he adjoining room. Where Henry the Eighth courted Anne Boloyn and a fow others. In looking at the place one ran almost with exactitude see that sometimes merry, and at otliers severe, monarch doing liis amours and severe swearing. The castle was all bustlo making things ready in the section set apart for tho King and _Queen of Portugal. When at tho Islo of Wight I also went through Osborno where good Queen Yiotoria died. King Edward has now presented this property to the nation. I have visited scores of other English towns, and to see these quaint places, after our weatherboard and iron buildings and our better built substantial structures, is indeed a pleasing experience by wav of contrast.

I met many Now Zeahtncoi'o in London, anions llicm Mr John Ross (of Messrs Boss and Glendining), who, with his good wife, was very kind, and much disappointed that I was not able to go and stav at their house, and to; help celebrate Mi* Ross's seventieth birthday, as ho and his wife celebrated mine. I deeply regretted this, as it is an cpocli in one's life that burns into the memory, and possibly is the only birthday worth keeping. I spent a very pleasant Sunday with Mr and Mrs George H. Oatway and their daughter Amy at Highgate I.was delighted to find thorn all well and doing well. I was also fortunate, in finding another old friend of 35 years' acquaintance, now the senior in one of tho largest commercial houses in London, who treated me in a princely manner. We had a good time discussing old days when we were both struggling together for very small things. When not on pleasure bent I had a dart at business, and came in contact with many commercial men of position and knowledge, the general report business slow ana wintor prospoct .dispiriting. Then, in regard to tariff changes, commercial men doing export business wsra ail Freetraders, and denounced the proposed-changes of Mr Chamberlain in vehement language, whilst others took the opposite view. It is, indeed, a big question considering the ramifications and world-wide English trade involved, and will take much agitation and timo to upset present conditions. The newspapers, are full of depressing news as to the . miseries likely to be felt by a-very •large section of the people during the present winter. -It is indeed .sad that by tho side of so much wealth thpjre should be-so anil jpjapnr.- 'Tha-.tlygge .aro.j

out of joint and want rectification. Tho' labour question is giving anxiety to the wealthy ' throughout' the'kingdom, and for a colonial it is easy to seo that it will give more, and that the end thereof may be advantageous to both parties concerned. .• You would have promptly heard by cable about the Russian Baltic fleet in the North Sea, near the ; Dogger Bank, blazing away at some English fishing trawlers, mistaking them for Japaneso torpedo boats. The nervous tension ■ must have been taut to have so -played on the imagination. Britain's immediate action brought reply. Russia promptly acknowledged a possible mistake, and, ,if so, would compensate, but would not agree to accept ■ the two last absurd proposals submitted, and which have been changed. However, the tribunal arranged will fix matters up. It certainly had one good effect: showing that England at present coukl raobiliso her fleet with promptitude, and be ready for any emergency likely to arise. England's security only rests in her ability to be able to knock out all the combined sea forces that can bo brought against her. If she does not keep her navy strong enough to do this she could be sent to Hades with lightning speed.- Just fancy what a, month's blockade would do for England! It is too fearful for a monfent's contemplation. As before stated, I left England on the 22nd just, for France.- An Englishman on travel in foreign countries ought to lie able to speak three languages, outside of his own —namely, German, French, and Italiaii—if he is to thoroughly enjoy himself. Fortunately- for the Englishman who is not able to do so many foreigners can help him, and meantime I must bow to my superiors and do the best I can.

Well, six or seven days have jiven me an opportunity to see something of " Gay Paree," First, had a look into the Sacred "Madeline" and then "Notre Dame." After. this I went to the morgue. There was only one poor dead fellow there wanting identification. I knew him> not. Ho looked. a seafaring man, who had been battered about till his spirit had taken wing, leaving the stranded remainder a legacy to the city of Paris. What strikes ono first in Paris is tho all-round good looks of the men, women, and l children, and tho trim manner in which all are dressed. In this respect they arc very striking. Then, in the architecture of Paris, thero is uniformity. The finest of the buildings in every boulevard, rue, or avenue are almost identical—no projecting mouldings or cornices, 'but straight, unadorned fronts up to six. seven, or eight stories high,—and the effect is better, much better, than tho English overloaded buildings, with these adornments all at variance with each other. Well, in respect to the Parisian Sunday, in the morning up to 1 o'clock tho people who go to ■church aro found at Notre Dame, the Madeleine, or other places of ..worship, but after this, in afternoon and evening, all rush off to music hall, theatre, or other forms ol amusement. Suuday after 1 p.m. is a festive holiday. Tho musie halls of Paris aro similar to those of London, and performances much the same, excepting, in favour of Paris, the women are handsomer injfaoe and figure. They are as active us squirrels and as graceful as they, are active; no vulgarity in their actions. Tho artistic manner in which they handle their spare coverings would make a Quaker smile.

I went to the National Opera House to see tho opera "Solammbo," of which I had never heard lwfore. This was the finest performance I have over seen—singing and acting. superb, aud stage effects simply wonderful. The Opera House is, also, the l>ast-[inishod I' have seen. I also wonfc to the Olympic. Salon do Paris, Folios Bugire, Moulin Rouge Parisiana. Tho French people know how to enjoy themselves. There is no hypocrisy, or, if so, precious little, I should say. To sec the best, and what, one might venture to think, the worst, all mixing up together in these places'of amusement was to mo a revelation. Libsrte, egalitc, fratcrnito, and no mistake.

It is very cold here to-day—frost this morning early and subsequently sleet. They do not often see snow hero. Paris in summer must bo a charming place. Tho extensive squares and long straight lines of streets, ail beautifully planted, and the gardens and reserves, public buildings and monumental records of " old fighting France" rivet the attention wherever you go. I spent ono day going through tho Tuillerics and Louvre. The -pictures and sculptures, however, aro not, equal to the collections in the National Gallery and Kensington, London. I should like to visit the plaoo again in the summer time.