THE ASCENT OF MOUNT COOK.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 10263, 22 January 1895, Page 6

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT COOK.

By G. Ghaham.

ITS SUCCESSIfOL ACCOMPLISHMENT.

After sover&l unsuccessful attempts by Green's routa, made in company with Messrs Dison and Ross, and later with Dixon and Dr Cox, X. C. Fyt'e and I determined to try tho western side. Mount Cook is a spur from tho main divide, and consists of three peaks—tho northern 12,349 ft, the middle 12,178 ft, and the southern 11,787 ft. The distance between the two extremes is about one mile and threequarters. Fyfe had on December 11, with J. Adainaon, made a trip to Harper's Saddle, and ft careful inspection of the western dele offered the choice of two routes. The first was to strike off from the Hookec below the Empress Glacier, and, following up a tongue of suow, take to the rooks running right up to the ridgo just below the lowest peak, aad then along the ouo mile and three-quarters of arete. The alternative was to go up the Hooker to its htead, and try a couloir leading to Green'a Saddle, and then up the Tasm&n atCto or the northern face. U was decided to try the way by the southern peak first.

With a tent and live days' provisions, on December 16 we left the Hermitage, and making au easy stujje pitched our tent on the bauic of a creek thxt drained the i'airbank Glacier, about half an hour's walk from the end of the Hooker track. A comfortable camp wan matio here, as there was plenty of onow-grass and firewood. When we rose next morning anor"wester was threatening. The day was showery, and we amused ourselvea by leading or making vain attempts on the life of a solitary kea. Heavy rain fell during the night, but the morning of the 18th broke clear, and we sat out to pick the best tray through the broken ice of the Hooker. To mark n route we took with us some branches of scrub, twigs of which we broke off and dropped at intervals on the euow. Keeping up the middle, as I'yfe and Adamson had done seven days previously, we found

THE GLACIER ALTEBED FOB THE TVOIISB. The crevasses were of groat width, running almost from side to side. On our right they crossed in all directions, while the opposite side, though not so broken, appealed to be swept by falling stones from the Moerhouse Range. Two hours were spent feeling our way through this maze. In one instance we found a crevass where the snow bridge had fallen iv a little way and wedged. It was so wide that tho fall length of our rope (60it) was not long enough to reach across. Consequontly we were both standing on the bridge at the same time, and to make matters worse, steps had to be cut on the upper face. Fortunately for us the bridge held, and by gradually working to our left we succeeded in clearing the troublesome ground. Holding steadily up the glacier ia soft snow we soon came to oflr turning point, and made straight up the slope to a rib of rock 600 ft or 800 ft above us. After a short rest on this we looked about for a place to camp, and in the end decided on the highest point as being the most suitable. Thia matter settled, we ascended another 600£fc, arid a careful examination of the mountain side seemed to offer good chances of s conquest, causing ene of us to remark, "If we can only do the ridge !'> Leaving tkis point for future determination, we turned for camp,

GLISSADING BIGHT DOWN TO THE HOOKER, and then keeping well under the Moorhouse Range. We found this much better than the middle of the glacier, and did in half an hour what took us two hours in the morning. A bath in the creek was followed by a good tea, after which we were soon in the blankets.

Next day, leaving the tent behind, and taking only our blankets, provisions, and a little firewood, we picked our way to camp No. 2, chosen on the previous day, and at ones took steps to make ourselve3 as comfortable as the circumstances would permit. First the ground was levelled alongside a big rock, and all the larger stones were carefully picked out. Than a rubble well was built at each end, and the remaining side was sheltered by a mound of snow scraped up with a billy. All wag snug by 7 p.m., and as we lay in our blankets we chatted over the chances of the morrow or groped underneath for some particularly prominent stone. For the elevation (6400 ft) the night w«s not cold, and we rested fairly well. By 2 s.in, Fyfe had some hot soup ready, and in , half an hour we were strung on the ropa, ' marching up the first alope. A few crevasses were met, but all were crossed easily. After a couple of hoars the rook on oar right was tried for a change. As we found it slower it was left in favour of the snow until the end of the tongue was reached. Tho rock improved I after the first hour, and continued fairly so to the crest of the ridge, a little below the southern peak. This point was reached just before 11 a.m. Avoiding the arete, we kept along the western side, cutting 6taps across numerous patches of ice, and gradually descended to a couloir directly under the middle peak. CUTTING OUE WAY UP ON CLEAR ICE

we found enough snow on the summit to enable us to walk a short distance, bat it soon gave pl&cs to ice again. The ridge between us and the final peak was very much corniced in places, forcing us to keep on the slope. 1.30 p.m. saw us on the arete once more. From this point we could survey the whole of the ridge between us and the highest peak, and it did not look very promising. About a quartsr of a mile's stepcutting along a steep face of hard ice and then 200 ft or 300 ft straight up was, we thought, too long a job to undertake ao late in the day, and, as we had the other ronte to fall back on, we quietly turned in our tracks and worked our way slowly back to the highest rock under the southern peak. After luaving a bottle here we resumed our descent and were on the first snow by 5 p.m. The enow was in grand order and we enjoyed some splendid glissadiug. Numbers of small crevasses were shot over without a break and gome of the wider ones we slid over singly, one man anchoring while the other shot over. Camp No. 2 was struck abont 6 p.m., and, rolling up oar blankets, no time was lost before we were sliding down to the Hooker. After descending quite 3000 ft in a series of glissades quick time was made to the first c&mp. The lantern was now brought into use, and after losing the track a score of times we landed at the Hermitage about midnight.

The next day we were agreeably surprised to see J. Clark put in an appearance. Ho readily consented to join us in another attack, expressing his willingness to do his utmost. We set to at ouce making preparations for a camp on the sno-7. Taking advantage o£ our experiences on the eastern plateau, we manufucfcured a fire

tin to save fuel, and a waterproof sleeping bag was opened out to do duty as a floor to onr tent. With these little additions to our already heavy swags it wan late on the night of the 22nd era we reached camp No. 1, and on tha I following day more weight mi piled on in the | firewood line. TOIIING DP THE HOOKER under heavy loads slow progress was made, and we were scarcely clear of the broken ice when a heavy fall of rock came rattling down from the western range, sweeping over our tracks, and convincing us that we had better try a new route on our way down. Camp No. 2 was struck without farther sensation, after a weiry up-hill drag in soft snow.

The 24-th saw us pegging away up the long slopes of the Upper Hooker. Crevasses were plentiful, but they were mostly very narrow. Our worst trouble was the soft snow. Wheu well under St. David's Dome the steps cut by Adamson and Fyfe on the 11th up the last steep ice on to Harper's Saddle were distinctly visible. Bearing slightly to our right we filed on a big block of ice standing alone as the best epofc for camp No. 3. Quarrying into one end of thig, and using the material* scraped out to build breakwinds at the sides, wo had, after an hour's work, cleared a space somewhat larger thsn the tent, sheltered at one end by the humaißek and by snow walls at both sides, lieaving Clark to melt snow for ths morning's tea, Fyfe and I started breaking steps to a bergshrund directly below ths ice couloir from Green's Saddle. Finding the middle of tho slope very broken we were forced to keep close under the ridge between Hector and the Dome. Some of the crevasses were of enormous sizeone in particular wsb, we estimated, over two chains in width. The Bhrund we found extended in a half circle right across ths highest snow basin of the Hooker, apparently barring all further progress upward. We walked along the edge of tha lower lip in hopes

oC finding a bridge, but in vain. Our only chance was to tacklo a spur dividing tho Empress Glacier from tho basin wo were on. Thou if vre could get up a dangerous ledga for 150F6 or go from the end of tha ochrnmt, the gap might bo turned. Not having timo to settle this point we made for camp, and taking the opposite side of the slope going down, found it far easier than tho w«.y we came up. The tent was scon rigged up, the ice-axes being used for uprights and tho rope for a ridge, while blocks of ico answered for pegs.

The waterproof sheet was first spread on the snow, theu our coats and sparu clothes, with the blankets on top. The night being fine, we dosed away till morning. Shortly after 3 a.m. wo were ROriOD UP IX UAIiOniNQ ORDER,

and strolling up in our tracks made the previous evening, the bad shrund waa soon reached, and Ityfo, taking thn load, got on to tho ledge easily enough. Then squirming up aa far as tha rope would allow, ho took a good stand, and with his aid Clark aud I were soon beside him. With much difficulty lie worked up another length, stopping to derm.lis!] a masu of frozeu suow that burred his prnjjrcs.t. liolow us wai a straight drop into the 'ihrund, while above the ltiiige was broken, and in places overhanging. ITigher still the npppr wall of the shrund leaned over in a threatening way. As wo paid oub rops to our leader ho remarked that "it wonld not be v nica place to come down in the dark." After a great amount of wriggling and twisting we once more found good footing on a level with the upper lip. The tima occupied in mastering this wall was juafc 40 minutes. However, we were glad to escape at the prico, and, keeping close to the rock, made good progroiSH to where the slope narrowed in at the bottom of tho couloir. We then cut our way across to » spur on our left. Tais proved to be very rotten rock, but the ridge, we thought, would be safsr from falling stones than the couloir was.

Half way up we stopped to consider our position and have breakfast. The spur wo were on rau right up to Green'n Saddle. On one side was the couloir and on the other a steep ice slope narrowing upwards with rib 3of rock projecting in places, and apparently raked with falling stones. As tha spur seemeel best we pulled ourselves together and attacked it again. In two places the crest narrowed to s. knife edge and was capped with snow. This gave us a little variety, bringing the axe into requisition. By 8.30 a.m. we had utepped over the Hector ar6te and obtained our first view of the Linda.

After sunning ourselves for a few minutes we walked along the ridge to the Mount Cook side of the saddle, and, climbing oa tha sunny face, found the rook much firmer than that which we had just left. Rapid progress was made for over an hour, a few steep chimneys being the only obsfcacleo; but this waa too good to laßt.. A tower right on the arete barred the way. The face on our left was too smooth for & travewa.

Fyfa tried the other side, and swinging himself round a nasty slab, his weight on his elbows and HIS FEET DANGLINa IN SPACE, he clambered on to a ledge, but no furtherprogress was impossible. We were obliged to descend and try again lower down. From Green's Saddle we had been climbing on the sunny side of the Hector arete, and in the shelter. The other side was iv shadow, and a bitter wind came sweeping up in gusts, making us shiver as we stood on the ridgo. Getting under the shelter of a rock we hauled out the tucker a second time. After satisfying ourselves we spent some time in studying the West Coast. Gillespie's Bsach was visible, and we could also lac several lakes, but the usasl coast fog spoiled the view further north.

The rock on the western side of the ridge was very steep, and our hands were seldom unemployed. But the holds wera mostly firm and good, consequently we inado fair way, playing the game of "follow my leader" in silence, broken only by the occasional requests for more rope, or inquiries as to the firmness of those in front. After an hour's continuous climbing of this description we suddenly came in sight of the fiaal ice cap. A moment's hesitation as to whether we should cut straight up or bear away to our right, where the rook rau nearer the summit, and we decided on the latter.

From the highest stone over 100 steps were cut, first in hard bine ice giving place to snow as the grade became easier, and finally wo surmonnted the last 30ffc or 40ft. At 1.30 the troubles of the ascent were over. We were the first human beings who had stood on the actual summit of the great Aoraiigi, and we were gleefully shaking hands on the

VERY HIGHEST POINT OF NEW Z&4XMJD. Tha top was rounded off on all sides excepting the east, where it dropped sharply. The view was certainly vast and magnificent, but it lacked a central feature. N.B. and S.W. there was nothing visible but Bnow tops or jagged peaks. The three Waitaki lakes were sighted, aud a great stretch of the western shore, which unfortunately was partly shrouded in fog, extending into the hazy distance. Mount Tasmnn was the most prominent peak. It seemed quite as high as Cook, and with it 3 tremendous ice cliffs covering it from the top right down to the plateau, it waß far more showy. Mounts Stokes and Hector were quite overshadowed, appearing insignificant in comparison. A sharp wind was blowing, but it was not disagreeably cold. Aftor spending about 20 minutes in contemplating the grandeur of alpine scenery fram a vantage ground not previously attained by man, we prepared for the descent, first pegging an old ruck sack down on the topmost point. On the highest rocks we found a cairn of loose stones, in the centra of which an empty tin with our names and the date scratched on it was placed. THE BETCBN JOUENBr. We followed the same route down as we had taken in the ascent, and in three hours and a-half were on Green's Saddle. Just &t we got on to the spur of rotten rock a mass of loose stone suddenly started off from the side of Hecter, and charged past us on our right, disappearing below after two or three mighty leaps. Daring the whole time we were on this ridge stone 3 were continually clattering down on each side.

We were just getting on to the snow to cross the couloir when a handhold broke with me, and the aling of my axe slipping over my wrist the axe slid away down the slope, stopping above a small schrund. Going down tha rocks to ths lowest point Fyfe secured himself and paid out all tho rope (100 ft), and then I, holding on to the rope, slid down te the end, and, scrambling across the elope, was ju3fc able to reach the adventurous axe.

An hour was lo3fc by this delay, bo all speed i was made to got over the big bergshrund before dark. While close under the face, just above the shrund, wo were startled by a crash far above ua. Squeezing close to the rock we crouched down, and not a moment too Boon, for a shower of 3tones smashed into splinters came whistling over our heads, dropping into the snow with a swish. Thanking our stars for being close to the facs in the nick of time we quickly SCRAMBLED DOWN TO THE DEKADED LEDGE. In the dim light ifc looked worse than ever. Fyfe anchored while Clark and I lowered ourselves carefully to the limit of the rope, where we were joined by the last man. Oar pozitioa was decidedly awknard. None of us waa fixod to stand even a slight strain. In the uncertain light, the ssnse of feeling was all we could depend on. Little by litfcla we edged down, and after what seemed an age the difficulty was over.

Flanging down iv soft Buow, camp was reached at 9.45 p.m., and the rope taken off for the first time since 3.30 &,ni. Stringing up the tent any how, we trisd to eat, bat found that impossible without water, and as all the wood was used in the morning, none could be procured. A cold wind was blowing, causing ths enrelesslypitched tent to flap abuot our ears, but we ware too tired to remedy it, and so coiling under the blankets with a lighted lantarn to provide us with warmth, wo dozed and shivered the remaining hours till morning. At 4.4-5, still having nothing drinkable through being unable to meic the snow, we dispensed with breakfast, and, rolling up our blankets, trampad wearily down the Hookec. Having had enough of falling stones, vro chunned the Mourhoa«e range, anrl after a iot of jumping .;») slippery ica ws forced a passage down the iefi; of the glacier. From here to camp No. 1 wus olmn sailing, and by 7.30 ft.ci.we were enjoying same hot gruel. While our clothes were dwiDgwaJhad two oc

three hours' slcop, and feeling greatly refreshed, wo trudged quietly on to the Hermitage, which was reached by 12.45. Tho climb was mainly a rock one. Our greateat difficulty was experienced in turning the largo bergnhruiul, and our greatest dsuger was from falling atones. The southern piwk should prove a nafo and by no means difficult climb. The crevasse:) on the slope below the great rocky nido aro numerous, and may give a little trouble later in the sousou. In a late climb the greatent difficulty would probably be found in going up the Hooker Glacier. Any lovers of rock work should find satisfaction in doing: this our third highest peak. Intending olimbnni would do well to bring thoir own stores, which may ba procured at Fairlie frerii J. Young, who koepa all necesaarids.