A TRIP TO STEWART'S ISLAND AND THE WEST COAST.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 3779, 18 March 1874, Page 6

A TRIP TO STEWART'S ISLAND AND THE WEST COAST.

(FEOSI OUR SPECIAL RErORTEB.)

Iv accordance with a resolution passed by ■the House of Representatives last Session, the Government despatched the p.s. liuna on an expedition to b'oveaux Strait and ■*he West Coast of the Middle Island, for the purpose of selecting sites for newlighthouse3, to be erected .at different places. Who Luna left Wellington for the South on &ho 14th February, having on board Captain (Johnson and Mr Wilson, of the Marine Department, and a numerous party of excursionists. After calling at Cape Campbell, Lyttolton, and Timaru, she arrived at Oamarn ton the 18th. Most of he\- passengers wont ashore fora short time, and Captain Johnson "visited the flagstaff on the point for the purpose of fixing upon a suitable site for a light. Having inspected the ground, he proceeded <m board, and the Luna was soon on her way to Duneriin. She called iv at Moeraki, where Captain Johnson fixed upon a bluff near the township as a suitable spot for a lighthouse. Steam was then got up, and, as your readers &re already aware, the Luna arrived in Duntsdiu oil the evening of the 19th. Before resuming her voyage, she was joined by a Small party of Dunedinites, among when "Were Captain Hutton, Provincial Geologist; Mr Stout, M.P.C. ; and Mr Alfred Burton (of Messrs Burton Brothers). The latter gentleman's services as a photographer have been Secured f^r the purpose of obtaining views of some of the romantic scenery to be visited I>y the Luna during her cruise. While the Steamer was at our port, Captain Johnson Visited Cape Saunders, and inspected the lighthouse at Taiaroa Head. The voyage "was resumed on the 21st, and from our special correspondent on board the steamer we " liave received the following account of her %ri|> to Foveaux Strait: —

3JROM POET CHALMERS TO THE BLUFF.

About half-past six on Saturday evening, went on board the Luna at Port Chalmers, SUld shortly afterwards Captain Fairchild gave the order to cast her loose from her moorings. She soon cleared the wharf, and had fairly started down the harbour, when it "was reported to the skipper that an important personage had been left behind, namely -*-a tinsmith, who had been engaged for the 3Dog Island lighthouse. The u,an was indispensable, S3 t^ ere was nothing for it but to turnback and wait for him. The steamer "Was- backed clo3e to the wharf, and the •Whistle shrieked loud aud long. After a ■tedious balf-hour had been wasted, a man •who had been sleeping in the forecastle *ame on deck, and enquired what all the *ow was about. The querist turned out to be the missing tinsmith. After indulging in some strong language, and binding up with a hearty laugh, the fcaptain ordered " half-speed ahead," and we Were quickly spinning down the harbour. XVe soon lost sight of Port Chalmers, Wrapped up as it was in a thick fog, which Seemed to get denser as we approached the Heads. The light at Taiaroa Head was almost invisible, and out at sea it would liave been impossible to observe any object three ship's lengths ahead. The ship was jmt under easy steam, going along at the *ate of about six knots. We arrived off the Nuggets Lighthouse at 6 o'clock on Sunday teorning, and came to an anchorage close to tho beach under the shelter of the Nuggets. The water was smooth as a mill-pond ; and tnost of the party went ashore in the boats. After landing, we proceeded along a winding road through a scrubby bush, and at last arrived at a fine stone dwelling-house, which "has apparently been recently built for the lighthouse keepers. The latter are evidently troubled with numerous visitors, a' "we found a notice nailed to a tree requesting Us to "tie up your horses here." On reaching the lighthouse, we were well repaid for Our trouble in climbing the road with a Splendid view of the surrounding scenery. As the beauties of the scenery and the wonders o£ the lighthouse have already been described ill your columns, I shall not trouble you tvith any further description of them. I slitill Content myself with saying that they wer<s <lone full justice to by the visitors on that occasion. After getting a thorough soaking in the surf, we returned to the steamer, and "Were soon on our way again. We left at il a.m., and shortly afterwards arrived at Catlin's Bay, where we had to land Mr Mil's, "Collector of Customs at Dunedin. We went Olose alongside the wreck of the ill-fated jSurat, and had an opportunity of seeing all that the wind and the waves had left of her. The only sign of serious damage done to her hull was observable about the poop deck, ■which seemed to have been stove in by the "Waves. Her head was close in to the beach, "with, her stern to the high rollere, which now and then brok« over her. Mr Milla was safely landed in fche river, and the steamer's bead once more turned southward. The day proved beautifully fine, and as the steamer Kept close into the shore, we had an excellent opportunity of viewing the scenery of the coast. At sunset, the Bluff was near at hand, Euapuke and Stewart's Island standing tout boldly to the S. W. After speaking the Wallabi, bound for Biverton, we made for I)og Island. We arrived there at 8 o'clock, ana Captain Johnson, Mr Wilson, and a anttmber of volunteers went ashore to inspect the lighthouse. We remained anchored ■under the lee of the Island for about three toura, and then crossed the Strait to the Bluff, where we had to land a passenger. After a brief stay of an hour, the steamer got tinder weigh, and was steered towards CENTRE ISLAND. This island is about 500acresinextent. lying Stbout eleven miles from the town of E iverton, on the mainland. The Maori name is JRaiotonga. It is situated at the western entrance to Foveaux Strait, and is in a very good position for the new lighthouse proposed to be erected there by the Government. We arrived off the island at 6 o'clock On Monday morning, and we landed on an open beach, without much difficulty. Close to the shore a well-finished four-roomed 2iou.se was discovered,' with a garden attaohed; but, from all appearances, some months had elapsed since the occupants had deserted the place. Some hundreds of sheep and cattle were found on the island, apparently in good condition, but very wild. Ducks aud geese were also abundant. The north-east side of the island is high and rocky, with stunted weather-beaten trees growing to the top. Parts of the island are evidently good, and would veptxy cultivation. Captain Johnson fixed upon a very suitable site for a lighthouse upon an elevation of 220 feet. Captain Hutton collected a few sponges and specimens of seaweed, but did not succeed in finding anything of importance. We left Centre Island at 7.30 a.m. A few miles from the shore we fell in with a fishing whaleboat, manned by four Maoris. The boat was well filled with fish, ad Captain Vairchild made an exchange by which the Maoris did not lose much. They got three -or four loaves of bread and a bottle of brandy for a hapuka (or groper) of about GOlbs. ■weight. We then shaped our course across the Strait in the direction of Stewart's Island. We were very fortunate in respect of weather. A light breeze was blowing from the eastward, and the day was beautifully clear. On the mainland could be seen the Longwood Eanges, and in the distance, rising to a great height, could be seen the Takitimos, the highest peak of the range being capped with snow. The Bluff could be seen to the eastward, and far away to the westward the conical top of the Solander could bedistinguished. Straightahead Stewart's Island loomed uplargeand'grand, with itsforest«lad mountains. At 10 o'clock we made the north end of the Island at Cone Point, distinguished by a remarkable patch ot white sand. No suitable landing place •could be found at this point, so we steamed along the coast in the direction of Rugged Islands, which lie on the N.W. corner of Stewart's Island. Keeping close to the shore we could plainly distinguish the scrubby vegetation on the hills, with ro.cks appearing through the scrub here and there. 3*o harbour or landing place was observed until we reached BUCOED ISLANDS. This group consists of four or five small islands, close to a bold headland on Stewarts Island, from which they run out in a straight line. They well deserve their name of " Rugged," the bare hard rocks of which they are composed being torn and twisted sifter a most fantastic fashion. The largest of the group rises 500 feet above the sea, and seen from a short distance appeared quite inaccessible. Nothing daunted, however, by its savage appearance, Capt Johnson, accompanied by his assistant, M./ Wilson, and by Capt. Hutton, went oft bo the largest island by a boat, and effected a landing, while the steamer, with the rest of the p-i;'ty on board, rounded the group, and after contending against a strong tideTip, got into smooth water between Eed

ITond Pe^k, on Stewart's Island, and Codfish Island. From this position we tad a view of the western side of Stewart's Island, stretching for miles to the southward. The coast-line is mountainous, although not very high, and is apparently forest clad throughout. CODFISH ISLAND Is about four miles long, by two or three broavl, and is distant about two miles from Stewart's Island. There is a splendid harbour (>n the north-east side, where a fleet of yes els could lie at anchor protected from almost every wind. The Luna anchored close in shore, and landed some of the party on a sandy beach, while others took a whaleboat and pulled towards some rocks which promised well for fishing. Those who went on shore found it impossible to penetrate any distance into the interior, owing to the dense forest with which the islaud is covered, and which extends almost down to the beach. The timber appeared to consist chiefly of black and red pine. At some former time Codfish Island was evidently used as a camping ground by sealers and whalers. Some veiy old graves, with fences and headstones in a dilapidated state, were discovered close to the beach. The common rat was found to be very numerous on the island, but no traces of wild pigs were discovered. The fishing party in the whaleboat obtained som?°very fair sport, making a good haul of blue cod, trumpeter, and parrot fish. After remaining at the island for an hour, we steamed off in the direction of Rugged Islands, for the purpose of picking up Capt. Jr>husou'a party. On neariug the group we discovered their boat approaching the steamer, and in a few minutes they were alongside. We wero glad to heai from Capt. Johnson that he not only succeeded in clambering to the top of the island, but also found a very suitable spot for a lighthouse on the summit. A trig, station was discovered on the island. Whale birds were very numerous, the ground in places being quite honeycombed by their operations. While climbing up, Capt. Johnson and his companions could hear the birds uttering charge cries underground, and they succeeded in diggiDg out one specimen, which has been duly preserved for the Museum by Capt. Hutton. Capt. Johnson thinks that s.> far Rugged Island is the most superior site for the contemplated lighthouse, the only drawbacks being its isolation and great height. After taking the "party on board, we returned along the north-eastern shore toward' Port William (Port Caroline on the map). As we approached Port William, the hills t skirting the shore line became higher, and "wero covered with timber of a much superior description. As far as we could see inland the island was densely timbered. The steamer for hours cruised close in shore, so close that at one point we could plainly see with the naked eye'a trig, station erected in the bush. We observed several beautiful bays capable of affording good' shelter to large vessels, with open beaches where boats could laud passengers with ease. Shortly after 5 p.m. we arrived at

PORT WILLIAM, a splendid harbour, extending about a mile aud a half inland, and about 3 miles broad at the widest part. It is completely landlocked, protected from every wind. It is surrounded by hills of moderate height, which, like the neighbouring country, are covered from top to bottom with fine timber. The view presented by the harbour on entering it is very lovely, and well calculated to rouse in the most apathetic some enthusiasm for the" beauties of mountain and forest, and marine scenery, which in this delightful spot; are scattered with a lavish hand. On" entering the harbour we observed a little bay to the right hand side, where some houses have been erected. These consist of immigration barracks—of respectable dimensions—the residence of the Har-bour-Master (Captain J. B. Greig), and some small dwelling-hoii3e3 erected by the Shetland Islanders who have recently been settled on Stewart's Island. We steamed into this bay, and anchored close to a fine sandy beach in deep water. While within a few hundred yards of the shore, the man heaving the lead roported, "No bottom at seven fathoms." The Harbour Master was absent from the port, visiting another part of the Island at the time of our visit, but we were at once boarded by two settlers and a boy. They informed us that several of the'Shetlanders had abandoned the settlement, the demand for labour and the high wages offered tempting them to take up their abode in Southland. We remained at anchor in the port all night, the water being quite smooth, scarcely a ripple disturbing the glass-like surface. This appears to be its normal condition, as we were told by one of the settlers that "during his stay there for eight months, he had never seen the water less smooth. During the night a smart little cutter was pulled into the bay, where she lay anchored. This proved to be the Flying Scud, which a few years ago—as some of our readers may remember—went to the rescue of a shipwrecked crew of sealers, who spent several months of dreadful misery on the Auckland Islands, living on seals' flesh and shags. Early on Tuesday morning several of our party went ashore, some to bathe, others to shoot kakas and pigeons, and to catch fish near the rocks; Those who went into the bush with their guns succeeded in shooting a few pigeons, but the sport proved rather tame. This, however, was owing to no want of birds, as large flights of pigeons and kakas were observed from the deck of the Luna. The fishers were more successful, as they made a good haul o trumpeter and also obtained a few specimens of an excellent fish called the taiahiki. We left Port William for the Bluff shortly after 8 a.m., and now, while I write, we are speeding across Foveaux Strait at a rapid rate, the weather being beautifully fine. We make a short stay at the Bluff, where I will take the opportunity of sending you these haaty notes of our progress up to the present. We take our departure almost immediately for the West Coast; and as we are about to bid good-bye to civilisation for some time, you are not. likely to hear anything more about the Luna for seven or eight days.

THE INVERCARGILL RAILWAY. We paid the moderate sum of six shillings each for the privilege of travelling as firsuclass passengers in second-class carriages. The train went at a good speed, a broad 4 feet 8 inch gauge and a level country enabling the driver to go at a rate not to be thought of on the Port Chalmers line. A trip by the Bluff and Invercargill line is apt to prove a surprise to tho3e who only know the railway by the ludicrous stories and current gossip respecting it at one time. Good judges in such matters pronounce the railway to be the best constructed in New Zealand. Throughout its whole length of 18 miles, it has been built after the most expensive English fashion. The Eailvvay Station at Invercargill has also been built on a grand scale, and svpparently regardless of expense. A large arched entrance, commodious offices, and extensive sheds are a marked contrast to the miserable structure which does duty as a railway station at Dunedin. Several of the new carriages to be used on the Mataura railway were at Invercargill station when we arrived. They are constructed on the American principle—the seats arranged longitudinally with a passage from end to end, affording means of communication between one carriage and another. The passengers are enabled to enjoy the luxury of a little fresh air on long journeys by stepping on to an open gangway placed at the end of each cai'riage. THE CAPITAL OF SOUTHLAND. We were obliged unfortunately to make a short stay at Invercargill, but the few hours I was there convinced me that the town had improved wonderfully since I had seeu it last— about four years ago. Instead of unkept unformed streets, with large open drains rilled with slimy water on each side, the present well kept gravelled footpaths and streets are i>leasant to look upon, and reflect unlimited credit upon the Municipal powers that be. In former days, empty houses were almost the rule in every street, and broken windows and shattered doors in all parts of the town toll the sad story of depopulation. All this has been changed. An empty house is now hardly to be found, new houses being built aud old ones renovated ; while some of the business premises would do credit to a town three times the size of Invercargill.

POO ISLAND UfS [ITHOU.SE. Shortly after my return to the Bluff, Capt. Fairchild shipped all his coal, and with Capt. Thomson (Harbour-Master at Bluff) on board, steamed out, and first proceeded in the direction of Dog Island, where we had to take in empty oil cans from the lighthouse. While the st?amcr lay anchored, I went ashore to take a look at the lighthouse and surroundings. The islaud on which it is built is a miserable little rock about threequarters of a mile across. There are some

spots of pasturage here and there on it, where the lighthouse-keepers maintain a few head of cattle. The lighthouse tower is about one hundred feet high, built of stone, with a spiral staircase leading to the summit. The light is a revolving one, and visible at intervals of one miunte for a radius of 18 miles. The lighthouse is of great use, not only to Australian steamers and sailing vessels, but also to British ships making for the Southern and Middle Islands. By some, however, the light is considered _of too superior a class, as owing to _the_ inferior height, one less expensive to maintain would serve the purpose quite as well, i£ not better. THE GREEN ISLTST.S. While we were at anchor, Captain Thomson, with a boat's crew, proceeded to the soutli end of the Island to search for some sunken rocks known to exist in the way of vessels proceedings direct from the island to the Bluff. Although the locality of this hidden danger is known to him, Captain Thomson proved unsuc3essful in fiuding its exact whereabouts on this occasion. A boat with seven persons started in search of another suitable sit* for the lighthouse proposed to be erected either at the entrance to Foveaux Strait, or some spot on the West Coast, in the neighbourhood of Preservation Inlet. As we faced westward, subdued whisperings were heard on all sides respecting a "southerly buster," which everybody seemed to think was about due. As we steamed through the Strait and left the Bluff astern, these gloomy forebodings appeared to be well founded. A strong westerly breeze sprang up, and the steamer began to jump about, and sped along at a good rate, however, and we went to bed convinced that we would be well on our way before morning. We were not disappointed, for when we got on deck early on Wednesday morning (February 25th), we found that the steamer was rapidly approaching a prominent point with a group of rocks called Green Islets, running some distance seaward. This point, I believe, has been suggested by His Excellency the Governor as a very suitable site for the proposed lighthouse. When we reached the point, the sea was running too high, and the wind blowing too hard, to allow of our getting a close view. We cruised about some time in the hope of getting inside the dangerous rocks scattered about the point, but ultimately had to give up any idea of effecting a landing while the wind was blowing from the westward. Some of the larger rocks close to the point are ornamented with a few tufts of weatherbeaten grass, which might have been green at some period of their existence. The Islets are about 15 miles to the southward of the entrance of Preservation Inlet. About eight mile 3 miles further along the coa3t a bluff, of considerable height, called

WINDSOR POINT,

runs out to the westward, and standing out boldly constitutes a sturdy rival to Green Islets as a site for the new lighthouse. It also lias the advantage not possessed by the latter, of having a small inlefc (marked a Boat Harbour on the chart) in close proximity. So far as we coald see from the steamer's deck, the point is a good site, but we were unable to enter the Inlet or effect a landing in the face of wind and sea. Under the circumstances nothing could be done but to run for PRESERVATION INLET. which offered refuge, seven miles further on. We were soon opposite the south and narrowest entrance to the Inlet. Like most of the remarkable Inlets, closing on the West Coast, was an Island of considerable size. Coal Island stands at the north of Preservation Inlet, forming two entrances. The southern entrance is very narrow, and seldom used by vessels who how and then take refuge in the Inlet. Masters of vessels usually prefer to take the northern entrance, which is much betber, and devoid of almost any danger. As several of our party wanted to visit the coal workings, and Captain Johnsori had to walk overland in the direction of Windsor Point, Captain Fairchild determined to save time by courageously taking the narrow entrance, which, in all probability, a steamer has never tried before. With careful navigation, the passage proved entirely safe, and the water inside was perfectly calm and deep, averaging from seven to five fathoms some two or three miles from the mouth. The passage is closely shut in with well-wooded hills, rising to a height of GOO or 700 feet. A shoit distance from the mouth a sand bank answering in the Sound to the bars formed in most New Zealand harbours, stretches across the channel. Not less than two fathoms of water were found on this bank within two hours of dead low water. The steamer was anchored here at 10 a.m., within a few yards of a small sandy beach on Coal Island. The view from the anchorage was a very fine one. Rugged mountains rose boldly at the back of the Inlet—some of them upwards of 4000 ft. high—while the steamer was surrounded by hills of various heights, from 300 ft. up to 1000 ft., and all, of them covered from their summits to the water's edge with splendid pine and beech trees. As soon as the steamer was anchored Captain Johnson and Mr Wilson got into a boat, for the purpose of landing near the south head of the entrance, and walking overland towards Windsor Point, as the coal workings lay in the same direction. The Otagons got into tbe boat, and landed in a little bay, near the entrance, where two whares and a coal-shoot were observed. We proceeded along a road constructed from the wharves to the coal seam, which opens out to seaward about a quarter or half a mile from the coal shoot. The seam crops out of an exposed cliff, and is about three feet six inches thick, and dips at an angle of twenty-five degrees to the west. A tunnel has been driven one hundred feet into the side of the hill, with a tramway running through it. A candle was lighted, and five or six of us—Captain Hutton leading the van—managed to creep right up to the end of the tunnel. The passage was not very difficult, and with a little stooping and scrambling we contrived to move along rapidly. The average thickness of the seam was found to be about three feet, and where operations had been brought to a standstill, the quality of the coal was very good, while the supply appeared to be abundant. At first sight it appears to be a matter for regret that just when a good beginning had been made, operations should have been abandoned ; but, on a little reflection, it is evident that such a termination was almost inevitable. The general impression in Dunedin, so far as I could judge, has always been that Preservation Inlet coal was vastly superior to anything jnreviously discovered in the Province, and very little, if at all, inferior to Newcastle coal. While visions of Melbourne steamers coaling at Preservation Inlet floated before the eyes of the hopeful public of Otago, a visit to the Inlet would soon dispel such notions. Instead of innumerable coal seams cropping out here, there, and everywhere, the visitor would find good seams rather few, and decidedly far between. True it is, the coal is of the best description of brown coal ; but, after all, it is only brown coal, and I think any impartial judge would say at once that it is only equal in quality to coal found at the Nightcaps, in Southland ; at Kaitangata, and Shag Point, in Otago. After looking at the coal shaft, Captain Johnson, Mr Wilson, and a few others pushed along the beach to the southwards, and after some hard travelling we reached Puysegur Point, about three miles from the mouth of the Inlet. An excellent site for a lighthouse was surveyed at this point. The difficulty of travelling through the dense scrubby bush prevented the party from proceeding further in the direction of Windsor Point.

While the party were absent, those who remained behind walked back to the beach, and examined some large rocks in the neighbourhood of the coal shoot, and pure granite boulders were found in large numbers and of great size. We afterwards got into the boat and tried fishing lines off the rocks. The first haul consisted of a large cray fish, and in ten minutes-we were pulling in splendid trumpeter two at a time. Before we tired of the sport we had half filled a large whaleboat. The captain soon made his appearance after reaching Puysegur Point, and we returned to the vessel, and learned that a fine cave had been discovered on the sandy beach already mentioned, and as Mr Burton fitted up his photographic apparatus at its mouth, it was christened Camera Cave. An exploring party was soon organised, aud about six of us, with a leader, entered with a lighted candle. The cave, after getting in a few yards from the entrance, narrowed very much, and we were obliged to march in Indian file, and to squeeze ourselves rather tightly in some places. About 200 feet from the entrance of the cave, it opened into a chamber of considerable size. The floor was covered in places with penguin's feathers. The cave evidently had been used as a

breeding-placo, by the feathers of those birds adhering to the wall. We found several very good specimens of the glow-worm tribe, the bluish whita light of their little lamps producing a pretty effect in the dark corners. The cave, apparently, had been formed by the action of the sea upon the soft sandstone. Towards evening, the cray-fishing party pulled up the Inlettowards Steep Island, which lies at the inner extremity of Coal Island. They were very unsuccessful, and were obliged to leave the fishing ground without a single crayfish in the boat. They pulled back to the steamer, fully compensated for the disappointment. We rowed close into Coal Island shore, the water b«ing perfectly calm, and a rich foliage of overhanging beech-trees almo3e touching our heads. Between passing showers the wooded tops of the lofty lulls would be highly illuminated with sunshine, while all around was wrapped in dark shadow. At one time a magnificent rainbow spanned the sky—one end resting on the hills in our immediate vicinity, while the other end was broken by the rugged peak of a high mountain rising some miles back in the Inlet. During the night the weather became veiy bad, and a heavy westerly gale blew outside ; fiery squalls rushed up the narrow channel where we were anchored, and threatened to blow us into the deep water above the sandbank, where the great depth forbade any thought of dropping anchor. About midnight a terrible clap of thunder bur3t over the steamer, which trembled like a frightened horse for about a minute after the shock.

In the morning we found all the mountains at the head of the Inlet capped with snow. The weather was very cold and wet, and the breakfast table seemed to possess irresistible charms, no one making a move for about an hour after the usual time. At noon, Captain Fairchild moved the steamer up to Kisbee Bay, a few miles further up the Tnlet. The Bay is beautifully sheltered by high hills, and affords a safe anchorage, whatever wind may blow. The steamer was brought into a snug little corner, and tied stern and stem to large trees growing at the water's edge. Two small fresh water streams empty into the Bay, so the Captain laid in a good supply of water during the afternoon. Early on Friday morning, the 27th, the steamer was unfastened, and the Captain shaped a course towards the large entrance to thelulet, with the intention of returning to Windsor Point and Green Islets. When he reached the Heads he found a strong South Easter blowing straight into his teeth, and a high sea running, breakers dashing furiously over the Balleny reef. It was evidently impossible to do anything at Windsor Point or Green Islets, and after going out some distance the steamer's head was turned round, and we returned once more to the Inlet. This time we went towai'ds the northern side, bound for a sheltered little spot called Cuttle Cove, which affords the best anchorage in Preservation Inlet, formed in the bend of a small island lying a little off the shore. Where we entered the cove we discovered traces of recent visitors, a few trees haying been felled at the water's edge. At once we concluded some one aboard the Governor's yacht had been trying his skill as an axeman.

ISTHMUS SOUND. ; During the day a boating party was organised for the purpose of exploring the Isthmas Sound—the smaller of the two sounds at the head of the Inlet. The first part of our course lay between a number of small wooded islets, which are scattered over the Inlet in every direction. We entered the Sound through a narrow passage between two islands, and then had a pleasant pull up the passage, which is about two miles broid,. having all the appearance of a fine river hemmed in by hills, backed up here and there with lofty mountains. We pulled in close to shore, and shot numbers of kakas in the trees as we passed, the birds falling from hel overhanging branches into the water toongside the boat. We had also a good apportunity of observing the geological formation of the Sound. In various places the rocks rose some 12 or 15 feet above the water's edge, and were found to consist of granite and slate, in places the latter was embedded in the granite. A fine vertical junction of granite and slate rocks was found at one place. The Sound is almost six miles long, and, at the head, is separated by a narrow neck, a few hundred yards across from Long Sound. We scrambled across this neck, making a blazed track through the bush. The bush at this,: and every other place where I entered it on the West Coast, was quite open, and comparatively free from tbe dense undergrowth which renders travelling in the Southland bush almost impossible. On the other side, we obtained a fair view of Long Sound, and enjoyed a splendid sight of Solitary Peak, as its name denotes. . The mountain stands alone in its glory, and rise's to a height of 3200 feet, its conical top towering grandly above the meaner hills surrounding its base. After viewing the scenery, we returned to the boat, and arrived alongside the Bteamer early in the afternoon. In the evening, a loathesome octopus, or devil fish, was dragged on board in a crayfish net. A visitor to Preservation Inlet cannot but feel astonished at the immense quantity of timber growing in every nook and corner, on every hill and mountain, in the Inlet. The finest red and white and black pine, beech (or birch), and iroriwodd trees are to be found in the greatest abundance everywhere. If sawmills were established, enough timber could be exported-to supply the wants of the Colony for a century. The local coal might then be turned to good account by steam sawmills. WINDSOR POINT AND GREEK ISLETS. On the evening of Friday, 2Jth February, a change for the better was evidently taking place, and all on board were in high glee. ; A stranger to the Sounds, anchored in'one of the nnmerous Bays, might lay there for months in blissful ignorance of the. state oftheweatheroutside. Whenyou pass through the entrance to a Sound, and following up its labyrinthine channels, lose sight of the Btormy ocean, a sudden and complete change comes o'er the scene. Perhaps a quarter of an hour ago your vessel was tossed about, and cruelly strained by fierce waves and howling winds ; now you steam along a placid sheet of water studded with pretty islets, and offering quiet resting places on all sides. Scarcely a ripple disturbs the surface. A quarter of a mile away from the open ocean, and to the uninitiated, not the least sign is visible to indicate that a fierce gale is raging outside. . To the experienced mariner the case is very different, and Captain Fairchild seemed to know by instinct when the gale outside was abating, or when a "snorter" was coming on. On this particular Friday evening he assured us that matters were improving outside, and his assurance fortunately proved to be well grounded. At four o'clock next morning the anchor was weighed, and the steamer's head turned once more in the direction of the principal entrance to the Sound. On reaching the mouth, we found the sea had subsided, although a heavy westerly swell was running, and white breakers were curling over the dangerous Balleny reef. We coasted along in a southerlydirection, passing close to the seaward side of Coal Island, which is of considerable height at some points, and appears to be well timbered throughout. We soon reached Windsor Point, and the steamer was headed straight for the small inlet below the point, for the purpose of ascertaining whether it afforded safe anchorage for a vessel of moderate size. The feat of entering the inlet was one of no small danger, as it is guarded by a narrow passage of hard, savage looking rocks, over which on this occasion the sea broke heavily. Captain Fairchild, however, handled his vessel with such skill, that the danger was scarcely apparent, and we got right to the head of the inlet. We saw quite enough to convince us that there was no safe anchorage there, in fact, scarcely "room to swing a oat," and besides being exposed to southerly winds, an ugly reef of rocks was discovered right in the centre of where the anchorage ought to be. With the aid of the jib and a boat towing at the bows, the steamer was rounded, and few on board were sorry when she steamed clear of the inlet. We then steamed to Green Islets to see if a safe landing-place could be found there. We went round the point to the southward, and the steamer was steered right into the middle of a nest of rocks, over which the sea was breaking in every direction. It was wonderful to see the little vessel winding a devious course between the dangers on all Bides. At last she was placed between two large rocks close together, with something like a sunken rock ahead. The captain thought it was about tiuio to abandon all hope of getting a safe anchorage at this delightful spot, so the steamer was backed out a bit, and then turned round, making her way out in the direction in which she came. If a lighthouse is erected on the West Coast of Otago,

rUT.SEGUR POINT Will probably be fixed upon as the site.

The want of a safe landing place at Green Islets puts that site out of consideration, and the same want almost places Windsor Point iv a similar position. It would be necessary to construct a road from Preservation Inlet to Windsor Point if a lighthouse were erected there, and the rough nature of the country would render the construction of a road extremely expensive. Windsor Point is otherwise very suitable as a site, but I see no reason why a lighthouse ou Puysegur Point would not prove equally well adapted to the wants of Melbourne steamers and other vessels reaching the coast of New Zealand in this neighbourhood. Puysegur Point is 140 feet high, and with a CO feet tower a light could be shown for the required radius of 20 miles, while Puysegur possesses the great advantage of being easily accessible. So far as Otago in concerned, the business of the lighthouse surveying expedition was now brought to a conclusion. The next part of the Luna's programme was to pay visits to some of the Sounds on the West Coast of Otago. One object of these visits was to enable our special photographer, Mr Burton, to obtain some views of those wonderful inlets indenting the West coast of our Province which, although they contain some of the most magnificent scenery in the world, are almost unknown even to New Zealand Colonists. The place which it was proposed to visit was DUSKY .SOUND, a few miles north of Preservation Inlet. When we arrived opposite the latter the wind was blowing very strong from the north-west, and increasing in strength rapidly by the time we had arrived opposite the entrance to Chalky or Dark ,Cloud Inlet, which may be said to be next door to Preservation Inlet, there being only a narrow head between. As the steamer was making very little progress Captain Fairchild determined to take shelter in Chalky Inlet, and turned the steamer's head into the northern entrance, passing close to Cape Providence. Some years ago the steamer Star of the South came to grief near the Cape. While seeking an anchorage there she struck on a rock, and it Was with some difficulty that she was kept afloat and headed inside. In the. Inlet the Luna was brought to an anchorage on a sand-bank in a pretty little nook called ' \ NORTH PORT. The scenery in this place was rather subdued, the only mountains visible being a back view of' those already seen in Preservation Inlet. The steamer was shut in by diminutive hills covered with fino timber. North Port resembles a small river, which might easily be imagined to be hundreds of miles from the sea coast. The only observable signs of storm raging outside were the scudding fleecy clouds overhead, and an occasional squall skimming along the surface of the water. During our stay in North Port, we caught cray fish in great quantities, as well as blue (or rock) cod and other common kinds of fish. We remained at North Port during Saturday night and the whole of Sunday, March Ist. During Sunday night the weather showed signs of changing to the south-west, and shortly after 4 o'clock on Monday morning, steam was got up, and a start made to get to sea. On reaching the entrance to the Inlefc, we found the wind was still blowing from the N.W., and the sea running very high. . , The little steamer behaved spendidly, and made very good headway. The western-most point of the Middle Island, West Cape, lies between Chalky and Dusky Inlets, and once past that, we were to a great extent independent of prevailing winds. We rounded the Cape, and soon approached the entrance to ; ; ; DUSKY INLET. As the entrance is approached from the southward, the coast line presents an aspect very different to that of the coast further south. Instead of high rocky bluffs backed up with mountains, the land on the coast consists of low- round hills covered with vegetation, and the mountains are a considerable distance inland. Dusky Sound was visited and explored exactly 101 years ago by Captain Cook,- and the observations then made by the famous navigator have proved on the whole to be surprisingly accurate. Dusky and Breaksea Sounds were also surveyed by Captain J. L. Stokes, of 11.M.5. Acheron, in 1851. On entering the Sound one is perfectly bewildered by the multitude of islands and islets (all covered with timber) which stud the entrance. A group of islets called Seal Islands, and an island of considerable dimensions—Acheron Island—form the northern side of the entrance to Dusky Sound. In the centre of the Sound, and extending along its entire length, with a narrow passage between them, are two large islands—Long and Cooper Islands. To the north of Acheron Island lies Resolution Island, which is of considerable size, being about eight miles long and seven miles across. A remarkable peninsula runs out from the island to seaward, almost north and south. It is called Five Fingers Peninsula on account of a. peculiar group of rocks at its extreme point, which bear exact resemblance, when viewed from certain positions, to the five fingers of a man's hand. Resolution Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel called Acheron Passage, which connects Dusky Sound with the entrance to Breaksea Sound. We entered the Sound close to the South Head, which is covered with brushwood, with good timber growing here and there. As we steamed along the shore a fine sparrow-hawk flew iff to the vessel, and alighted on the rigging, and after carefully inspecting us he flew off, just in time to save his life, as one of the passengers, of sporting propensities, had rushed below for his gun. A short distance from the entrance, on the south side, there is a pretty little retreat, called Pickersgill, which affords convenient anchorage for large vessels. Captain Cook visited this harbour with his vessel when he explored the Sound, so it was resolved that we should do likewise. We steamed round a small island at the entrance, and remained in the harbour for a short time. Captain Cook, during his visit, cut down several tree 3 near the water's edge, but new timber and brushwood have of course completely overgrown any clearing he might have made. We fancied, however, that we could see a difference in the size of the timber where his trees had probably been felled. We then proceeded in the direction of Cascade Cove, a few miles further on the same side of the Sound. One particular object of our visit to the cove was to ascertain the position of Heron Island, and a rock situated a few hundred yards inside of it. During the Governor's recent visit to Dusky Inlet, he was convinced that the position of the island and the rock were wrongly marked on the Admiralty chart, and Capt. Fairchild was requested to examine the island and the rock. His Excellency proved to be right, as the island was found to be about a quarter of a mile closer in to the entrance of the cove, the rock being a few hundred yards inside the island, and close to the eastern side of the cove. The latter runs inland for a distance of two or three miles, and to the eastward and southward is overlooked by high mountains, some of the peaks being from 3500 to 4000 feet high. The summits of the mountains were wrapped up in mist, the sides, so far as we could see them, being finely timbered down to the water's edge. We steamed right to the head of the cove, and obtained views of three or four waterfalls tumbling down the sides of the mountains. One of the falls presented a splendid sight, rushing out of a cave high up the mountain side, the large body of foaming water making two or three leaps as it were before it tumbled into the water of the cove. Captain Hutton went ashore for a few minutes, for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of the rocks, visible here and there along the water's edge, and found them to consist chiefly of sandstone grit. Close in shore a great number of fish were seen swimnuii?, no less than five or six different kinds being distinguished. After leaving Cascade Cove our course lay in the direction of the head of the Sound, between the south shore and Long Island. We now began to enter upon the grandest scenery of the Sound, and got a foretaste of that which we might expsct to see for the next three or four days. The passage along which we were steaming is about a quarter of a mile broad in some places ; but, owing to the immense perpendicular height of the mountains on each side of it, scarcely appeared to be more than 100 yards across. The mountains on the mainland were very steep, and covered wiih dense timber ; the highest peaks were topped with mist, and waterfalls ianume; able came tumbling down the hill-sides in every direction. The water in the channel was intensely blue—its groat depth, sometimes niarkedonthe chart two hundred fathoms and no bottom, and the shadow thrown by the surrounding hills, producing a rich dark blue colour, sometimes deepening into a coal black. Here and there sombre tints arc relieved with a patch of light green, where the water shallows over a sandy

beach or a sunken rock. For about two hours we steamed along the channels, sometimes ahead hemmed in by the mountains, with apparently no outlet; sometimes with a clear view for two or three miles ahead, with fantastic peaks assuming every conceivable, or rather inconceivable, shape, ranged on both sides. On reaching the end of LoDg Island the steamer's head was turned to the north-wesfc, in the direction of Acheron Passage, a course being steered between Long and Cooper Islands. Captain Cook reported having seen some families of Wild Maoris at the upper end of the latter island, near the heads of the Sound. The scenery in Acheron Passage was much the same as that we had seen in the neighbourhood of Long Island, but as the fog had lifted we had a better view occasionally. The finest view was obtained at the mouth of Wet Jacket Arm, which runs in a north-easterly direction from Acheron Passage for a distance of about eight miles. We had three different passages stretching before us for miles each way underneath the beetlingprecipices. On every side our steamer looked like a tiny speck on the surface of the water. On the right hand towered a mountain over 3000 feeS high ; a few hundred yards to the left, on the opposite side of the Arm, a misty peak, 4000 feet high, lifted its head just a little above other mountains, which frowned down upon our little vessel. At one corner of Wet Jacket Arm, we found a tiny island, forming a snug anchorage between itself and the main land. Captain Fairchild resolved to make a short stay at this point to enable our photographer to carry away a memento of our visit. Before the steamer was anchored she steamed right around the island, the breadth of the passage at some points being scarcely more than her own width. While the photographic work was going on, Captain Fairchild and a passenger climbed up one of the mountains to a height of 150 or 200 feet to cut a few trees. A couple of tall pines were soon cut through, and some wild echos resounded throiigh the pass as the heavy trees crushed down the mountain side and tumbled into the ■water. Some good fishing was obtained off the rocks in the neighbourhood of the islands. The handsome soldier fish was very abundant, and when three or four were found swimming about, their bright crimson colour might momentarily deceive one into the belief that he had dropped upon a gold-fish pond. It may be of interest to those who wrongly think that no trumpeter are to be found in the West Coast Sounds to know that we saw a shoal of these splendid fish in a rocky basin inside the island, and succeeded in hooking two or three fine specimens of the genuine trumpeter. Mr Burton having obtained some good views of the scenery in the neighbourhood, we resumed our voyage along Acheron Passage, and arrived at the entrance, to Breaksea Sound about six o'clock in the evening. We proceeded in the direction of Breaksea and Gilbert Islands in search of an anchorage, but the water was everywhere too deep, and we had to go up Breaksea •Sound a short distance to get round EntryIsland into a small cove at the back of the nnrth-east corner of Acheron Passage. We found excellent shelter here, and anchored securely for the night. As we steamed into the cove we saw seals, for the first time during our cruise. Two little fellows, alarmed by the noise made by the steamer, slipped off a rock at the entrance and swam and dived about, apparently quite puzzled by the sudden invasion. After the steamer was anchored about' an hour, a couple of crack shots on board put off in search of-the seals, but the wary customers had disappeared. About 4 o'clock next morning (Tuesday, 3rd March) the steamer left Breaksea bound for Doubtful Sound.