A TEAMP TO OREPUKI.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 3634, 27 September 1873, Page 5 (Supplement)

A TEAMP TO OREPUKI.

<I'ROM A CORRESPONDENT.)

While in Riverton in April last, I heard great talk of a place called Orepuki, a bush diggings, 25 miles south, or about seven miles from the mouth of the Waiau. I made up my mind to vißifc it, so cast about for information as to the best way of doing so. I found that I could not take my horse, though I was told that there were some who did do so—but my informant added, "If you wish to bring him back again, or if he is a good one, take my advice and leave him." This was very good advice, as I afterwards found. It only remained for me either to tramp it, or wait a chance to go by the small boat which conveys the stores to the diggers. This boat, however, is very uncertain, as it can only land on the Orepuki beach with a certain wind. Frequently, the boat gets half-way, when round comes the wind, and round comes the boat, again to make for the port she left, and there to wait wi h patience for better luck. She is alwayß loaded, ready, whenever the wind comes round to the desired quarter, to up anchor and away. . As this boat had just gone at two o'clock that morning, of it I could not make use, so I determined to go on foot, as I would thereby be able to get a good and complete view of the intervening country. From Mr Daniel, M.P.C., I got a chart and elaborate directions as to the way. I took good care to leave behind me everything superfluous, for which I afterwards had reason Ito be thankful. ,

By taking a waterman's boat three miles up the Omut river, I saved the climb of a very densely wooded hill, the track over which was allowed to be " horrible." The scenery on each side of the river is very beautiful, from the abundance of native bush and the richness of its colours. The tide being full, the first two miles of the journey were across a large bay formed by the waters of the Aparima or Jacob's River and the Omut. On the south side there is nothing but splendid bush to the water's edge, but on the north there is a magnificent extent of country thickly settled, and consequently extensively cultivated. Everywhere there are to be seen farm-houses nestling in groves of trees, waving fields of corn of a rich golden colour, and the town of Riverton, with its snow-white houses on the rich dark green background of native bush, completed a picture of landscape beauty of which I have not seen the equal. Riverton well deserves its name of " The Garden of Otago." The weather was delightful, and there was not a cloud in the Bky.

After the first two miles, we entered the " narrows." Here the river in the course of time has cut a passsge for itself through the solid rock, and now flows in a deep channel a hundred feet or more below what must have been its level. Passing through thia channel, we came out upon another bay, not quite so large as the first, but of equal beauty. On the south shore my boatman landed me by carrying me ashore on his shoulders. I was now at the commencement of the bush track. I fixed a day and hour for him to come with his boat for me, and we parted ; but before doing so he gave me som© advice. He said, " tfcr/er mind the

mud ; do not go into the bush to escape it. Keep the track, if you have to Bwim." He then took himself off, and I entered the bush. At the first step, in I went up to my kneeß. I thought it wise to take a long stick, which having marked in a mud hole as far as it would be safe to go, I kept in front of me, and whenever I felt going easy —when the mud came near the mark—l knew it would not be safe to venture, not having any great wish to make my debut as a swimmer under &uch unfavourable circumstances. The mud, though it was summer, was in such a liquid state that it presented to the gaze a smooth and unbroken surface, save here and there where it had left xmcovered the roots of the huge pines that grow on each side. Numbers of birds of all descriptions flew round me, seeming to take great interest in my flounderings. Their wings I did envy. However, by taking great care, I made pretty good weather of it after all, though sometimes, when thinking I was safe in placing my weight on the foot which with great care I had placed before me, I would find that I had trusted in a broken reed, for my foot would lose its hold on the wet, greasy wood, and off I would go into the mud, my hands taking the place I had fondly hoped to ccc my feet occupy. It was no use to grumble-just up again as best you could, and at it. This track is five miles long, over the neck of. a peninsula, coming out in Kolac's Bay. It is kept in this dreadful state of mud by the wild cattle, which now swarm in the bush. They at thia season are driven from their higher feeding grounds by the want of water, and they keep the tracks in constant use, and consequently in constant mud. The sun, from the height of the timber, cannot get at it with any very beneficial effect. It took me more than two hours to get through, and with the perspiration pouring off me I emerged from the buslr into Kolac's Bay. After passing a stick with a large piece of paper on top, on the summit of one of the sandhills, to mark the entrance, and paying some attention to a creek that was fortunately close at hand, I sat down for a spell.

I had now safely finished my first five miles. By my chart I saw that at the end of this bay there ought to be a Maori settlement. On looking about, I could make out huts ; but this Bay was another five miles round, and Unluckily for me the tide was so far in that, instead of having a splendid hard beach to walk on, I had nice soft sand. All the mud I had come through was nothing to my disappointment.

At last [ did draw near the settlement of Oralca Village, and could see figures on the beach , which turned out to be children, who on my approach took to their, heels and made for the huts. I followed and mado my way Tip to the door of one. A very good-looking Maori -woman came out. I used Mr Daniel's name, and asked her to show me the. track to Lake George, which she at once j)romised to do, and also to go as far as the Lake with me. Having provided myself with a stock of tobacco, I made her a present of a cake. I could tell by her eyes that it was welcome. She ran into the hut and set up a dreadful jabber with two other women who were there, of which it wan evident I was the subject. Seeing the good effect of niy first gift I at once handed each of the other two a cake, which placed me on good terms with them all Conversation,commenced, and I found I waa in the abode of my (to be) guide, that one of the other women was her old grandmother, and the other a friend. I have seen a good many old women, but an older looking one than this one I never saw/ Her ■position,, certainly was not favourable for inspection—crouched over the fire with her chin on her knees—but she did not seem to be more than four feet high at most, and as she had got older her body appeared to have got smaller, leaving her skin in undescribable wrinkles. What a study she would make for Darwin ! I tried to find out her age, but all I could get out of her grand-daughter was that she was a " great many"—how many she did not know. All the other inhabitants, save those I saw and a few children, were away among the islands after mutton birds, that being the season, and the women smacked their lips in anticipation of the feeds they would have when the men came back. My fair (?) landlady informed me with evident pride that her name was Mrs Boker ; a name given her by white men, to whom I afterwards found she was very kind. No one need pass her hut if hungry or in need of a night's lodging. They were all welcome ; and what surprised me most was, that to white men she gives white sheets, the only condition she makes being that they should wash their feet in the water she provides before going to rest. They often, they told me, stayed with Mother Boker and her husband on their way to and from Riverton, and say she is a first-rate cook.

But to continue. After we had all had a smoke, grandmother and all, and a talk, we started out at the back of the hut into the dense scrub, through, which a narrow footpath winds to Lake George. Just as we had gone a hundred yards or co, a man appeared. He turned out to be a digger, coming down to Mother Boker's for a shovel. As he was going right back again, my guide handed me over to the Pakeha. He threw the long-handled shovel over his shoulder, and though he had just walked down, and had had no spell, started off in front at such a pace that I had to tell him it was too hot for me. By going this track we escaped the regular and muddy one ; but though we got rid of the mud, we still had drawbacks, for the track is little more than a footpath, with lots of cattle tracks branching off, so that you require to keep your eyes about you. My guide twice went wrong. I kept taking notes, and making marks for my homeward journey. Here and there, also, huge trees had fallen acruss the track. Over them you could not get, to go round them would take too much time — forcing your way through the thick underwood. So, under them we had to crawl. Fortunately others had done so before us, consequently leaving a place big enough to draw ourselves through. Sometimes the track came to boggy creeks, or narrow and deep gnllies, which we crossed on trees which had been felled on purpose to form a bridge, but had nothing but a few cuts with the jixe to give a footing on the round surf ace. Hitherto, all the bush I had come through, though good, had been nothing very extraordinary, but now as every step took me further into the heart of the bush, so every step brought me to better timber ; and before I went to sleep that night, I saw better timber than it has ever been my lot to see in Otago—every kind, from the rata to the stately pines and totara— and any quantity of them —and all, straight as a gun-barrel, 90 feet without a branch. •

We soon arrived at Lake George, a small but very beautiful sheet of water, with every indication of having been at no very distant period an arm of the sea, from which at its southern end it is only separated by a sew sandhills, the lake extending inland. The Maoris and diggers keep a canoe, aa the track beginß again right opposite, but that day this canoe attobher Maori camp ealie<i

Wakapatu, at the foot of the lake, so we had to take a roundabout of two or three miles before we again could go straight ahead.

Off we started, I taking care as before, to leave landmarks. Numerous small creeks flow iato this lake, which have been or are being worked by diggers, who deserve great praise for the energy they display. They choose a creek, knock down a few of the tall trees in order to get a look at the sky, put up a hut, then during the summer pack on their backs all the food they will require during the winter, as they are prisoners for a good many months of the year. They have also to bring in water, which, in such ground, is no easy task. They then settle down amid that intense solitude, to work for the winter without seeing a human being, unless they are lucky enough to have a mate, or a neighbour within a mile or so. One couple we came to, amused me much. There, in the heart of that dense bush, living together in the most perfect harmony, at work on the same claim, eating from the same table, were an Engl shmau and a Chinaman. Some distance off the track, I was told, a man and his wife were at work. I should have liked to have seen that woman !

By the time we came to the first hut I felt rather, hungry. My guide said he also ''could go some tucker," so we went up to the door of the hut, but there was no one at home. However, that did not seem to make much difference to him, for he untied the piece of string which secured the door, and in we went. He soon found out some food, and we set hard to work. I ventured to remark that this was rather a strange proceeding, but he said it was the custom.. Any of them were quite welcome to go into any hut and help themselees. After we had finished we put everything back in its place, tied the door up, and again started on our way.

At about four o'clock n»y guide informed me that we were getting near his quarter, and soon we came to a small clearing. 1 hoped my day's work was done, but was mistaken. This was the hut of two Italians. We went in, and I was very shortly introduced by, "I've brought a stranger." These bushmen use few words. With a slight nod and a warm shake of the hand to me, they proceeded to lay the table, which was made of an enormous pine slab. The floor had a complete carpet in the shape of two other slabs of gigantic dimensions, axe-dressed. Down we s&t to another good feed, to which, I confess, I did justice. After spending some time with' these me>, a quarter of an hour's walk brought us to my friend's hut, where he put me up for the night.. I had no need to sing, " Rock me to sleep, mother," that night. Another man had placed his tent alongside for the sake of company, and I was fortunate enough to get them both to go on with me next day to Orepuki; for in the morning, finding that the "mate," who was in Riverton, did not turn up, they n\ade up their minds that instead of going to work shorthanded, they would go and show the "stranger" the track, and bring back a load of tucker.