THE VOGUE

NZ Truth, Issue 1262, 6 February 1930, Page 20

THE VOGUE

Smooth Fabrics and Rich Tinting

THE fashionable women of Paris do | •*• not hide their well-bred light under a» bushel of correct but uninteresting clothes nowadays. . They proclaim to tha ; world at large that they love smooth fabrics and rich' tinting and are determined .to have them. / Therefore the looms are working overtime, turning out materials which come up to the required standard m color and quality. The vogue for satin -backed crepe de chines and crepe-lined satins, as well as creped silk of every description, has been followed by innovations m the realm of velvet. First there was chiffon velvet, then the lovely and supple ring variety, and then the printeji vejvet, which brought this material well and truly into the limelight for everyday wear. The women that lead rather than follow made it their own and had hats designed to match. They made it into ensembles and jumper suits and travelling outfits and evening frocks; m fact, they utilised it m every way. ■..'■' It is still the fabric of the hour, and each wardrobe ought to contain at least one frock made of this adaptable and beautiful material. Summer furs have been very much m evidence this season, and we now find nothing incongruous m chiffon coats trimmed with layers of summer fox or clipped lamb. Ermine is another fur(that has been widely used as a trimming along with biege or grey caracal and blue fox. This is another step on the back-to-femininity campaign, as fur, suitably used, is one of the most seductive and characteristically feline materials. Indeed, the whole trend of the mode is calculated to decorate and emphasise femininity and appeal to men's taste. . Georgette crepe is a new— or, rather, revived — and lovely version of the common or garden georgette. It makes gorgeous evening frocks, especially when, faintly printed m gilt or silver and allowed plenty of fulness^ Taffeta, twice as thick as before, and . sometimes looking astonishingly like velvet at a distance, is ■ come into its own, but is kept reserved and puritanical until below the knees, when it blossoms into a flared skirt of exceeding stiffness and charm. - ' ■ Brocaded satin is still fashionable, and will continue to be so, but its brocade has taken another turn and .is now patterned m stripes and spots and less reminiscent of old-fashioned curtains. . - ; Stripes and spots superimposed are quite a feature of evening materials, and have an effect of richness which fits' m with the general trend of the mode. There are chiffons and chiffons these days. ■ The latest idea is to embroider them m raffia, and very gorgeous is the effect obtained.