MADAME SEEKS THE BRIGHTER HUE

NZ Truth, Issue 1228, 13 June 1929, Page 20

MADAME SEEKS THE BRIGHTER HUE

WE have almost entirely discarded our sombre, fur-trimmed coats and black felt hats, and the woman who hasn't done so feels as though she'll scream if she doesn't break into something colored within the next day or so. At the races at Auteuil on Sunday frocks were astonishingly light and springlike, with a flutter of color everywhere, and reds and blues flourished almost blatantly. ' ; A-feature was • the embroidery of flowers carried out m the most futuristic designs m the gayest of colors, which often as not were repeated m

Red Is "a la Mode" For Couiiii^ Season ■LATEST FROCK DESIGNS . (From "N.Z. Truth's" Parisienne Representative.) £HERIE, — As sunny day follows sunny day, we are gradually gaming confidence m the fine weather, and learning to believe that everything comes to an. end, even the winter.

streamers flowing from the shoulder. Spring coats, frequently trimmed with broad cuffs and deep collars of white fur, helped to keep out what chill still remained m the air. Footwear followed the" brilliant note, m a dazzle of blues and reds. i. In fact, red bids fair to be the hue m^ "a la mode" this season, with j Wl yellows and blues coming next. W&k The color revival is most markmm. Ed, even more so than last year. KKa At five o'clock, tea at the Lddo, j§SE» the bathing beach of Paris, red i|^Wk m all its warmest shades pre9Rp^H dominated. -

. A new star has been discovered i\ the firmament of Parisian dress de signers — Baroness Michel Accurti, whc under the trade name of Ardanse, ha suddenly burst upon us, and come t the front as one of the most dis tinguished of dress creators, and on who is "different." In a setting of grey and purple velve drawing-room, with a cerise and gol< stage, she displays her beautiful man nequins. The collection holds a sensa tion m the form of a gold lace eveninj dress, with a butterfly of real jewel; at the front of the waist as its onlj trimming. The frock itself is a lovely butterflj

creation, with a drooping skirt of filmy gold lace, and a little flounce that stands out from the hips. Mrs. Vanderbilt, of millions fame, came, saw, and promptly bought the lovely thing for the modest sum, m our deflated currency, of two million francs. The butterfly is made of square-cut diamonds, set m platinum, with the "eyes" of the wings formed of round emeralds and rubies. Perugia designed the shoes- to-be worn with this creation. They are of pale flesh satin, covered with a fine mesh -work of gold hand embroidery, recalling the pattern of the lace m the frock. v This idea of real jewels forming part of a ;frock is really, a revival of a fashion of the middle ages, Svhen precious stones were, used as a trimming n oh the- clothes of anyone who was i- ANYONE. - ' ' ; ': '.. : 3, But don't imagine that all Ardanse's s collection is on the same footing. Numo bers of sports ensembles there are, i- with the coat rather shorter than the c two-piece dresses that match it. Morning ensembles, comprising plain it coats of tweed m beige or tan or- dark d red, 'have a skirt of the same material, - slightly drooping at the back, and a - jumper of figured jersey, with narrow S bands of the plain material at the neck s and wrists, with the front cut up y slightly to correspond with the line of the skirt. V ■'.■ Afternoon street frocks. of navy blue jersey and wool georgette are among the practical models shown. . A most original cape ensemble has a white velvet cape with large squares of black, and a great bow of velvet at the neck, whilst the frock is of crepe de chine with the same marking. \ ••_.- But evening frocks have a special place m every woman's heart, and -well Ardanse knows it for, she has a charming collection of them to show. One of the loveliest' beaded frocks I have ever seen is of white chiffon, embroidered all over m crystal beads and tubes, and hand-painted m between the embroidery with a tiny design. A pale blue and pink shot taffeta is made with a plain top, and a skirt of full panels, rounded ana edgred^with folds of blue tulle, which m their turn have a tiny binding of the taffeta. The skirt, falls almost to the heels at the back. Another model for evening wear was of gold-colored mousseline, with a perfectly plain top, and a skirt a mass of frills. At the waist was a sash of gold moire ribbon, tied at the side m an enormous bow. A dinner, frock of cream chiffon has small black and" white birds embroidered on the skirt, which were repeated on the chiffon, stiawl-scarf which accompanied the frock. An unusual feature is ; the use of silk jersey' foi" evening frocks. It is most successful m - white, and falls m the softest of folds. JFans are certainly asserting themselves as ah adjunct to evening wear, and are expressing themselves, so to speak, m more ways than one, which is feathered. This is certainly a season of tulle, and it is now being used for fans m several thicknesses, cut like wings, and with' rough edges waving, although they are fastened to each stick. One collection of fans I saw held, besides these little tulle affairs, immense ostrich fans, brilliant and barbaric, conjuring up visions of Cleopatra and other hussies. • • Other fans were -made of waxed flowers with lovely lpose petals, and' brilliants set m the tight centres. Head-dresses for evening • wear are charming, and monopolise a good deal of the designers' attention, with the to-be-or-not-to-be question of hairgrowing as* the main cause.