FACTS AND FICTION FOR FEMININITY

NZ Truth, Issue 881, 14 October 1922, Page 14

FACTS AND FICTION FOR FEMININITY

(BY MARY B. CONTRARY.)

The arbiters of fashion are seeking to re-establish the wasp waist. What a world of misery the very suggestion spells. Of course, it is a seductive adjunct to the festive flapper who looks to offer a convenient armful, but it is anything but a comfort to the possessor. The votaries of vanity ought to kick against this ukase with more force than they could put into ,a Chinese shoe. "M.8.C.," who, by the way, does not run to embonpoint herself, as a warning to her more overhanging sisters, would like jus"t to quote the case of Anna Held, the New York stage idol- Her waist was screwed m until the deep curve between bust and hips was abnormal. The thoughtless crowd admired and applauded. But great force m lacing was necessary fc to -produce this "hourglass figure," and for years the little actress practised tight lacing. Then came the collapse! Multiple Myeloma, a mysterious and fatal disease of the marrow of the bones set m. The congestion of the blood Vessels affected the bone marrow, her frame withered away, her bones cracked at the least movement, and the slightest pressure gave unbearable agony. During the early stages many of her bones were broken owing, , to thelir extreme brittleness. At last she had to lie on v heaps of the softest down quilts 'to minimise the pain. Blood transfusion became necessary. It is a doubtful operation, for the blood of one person often refuses to mingle with that of another. But although the blood of the young chauffeur named Lane, who volunteered, harmonised perfectly ''with that of the patient, the rally was only temporary. The deadly tight lacing had crushed the life out of the little comedienne, and m spite of physicians and surgeons, she passed away m terrible pain.

A much aggrieved lady correspondent called N on me this week to report the sad fate of a beautiful silk foulard dress, the material for which had cost her 16s 6d a yard, whilst she had been at considerable pains and expense m the making up. First time on, while she was crossing the road, she ran into a light shower, and every drop showed up on the pale silk foulard with distressing prominence and permanence. She consulted the mana^ ger of the shop where the material was purchased, and he informed 1 her.^that everybody knew or ought to know that silk. foulard would be ruined if exposed to rain. He was sorry, but could do nothing except try and* fix it up with "some sort of benzine process," though he was afraid it would prove a failure. Anyway, so far as her dress was concerned it was "napoo." The lady's only object m making this domestic matter public was to warn others to beware of silk foulards.

■ Another irate person called m at the office with what sounds like a legitimate grievance. She had made a purchase at a drapery emporium which totted up to 12s 4%d and was tendered 7s 7d change put of a pound. Enquiring after the missing ha'penny she was informed that the firm never made change to a ha'penny. Apparently that enterprising " rag ' merchant made change m the interests of . his exchequer, and the poled ha'pennies would run into quite a lot of pounds, m the course of the year. "M.8.C." advised the dame to sue the firm for the owing ha'penny. It would never fac£. a prosecution and she could also saddle them with costa. The visitor left declaring her intention of putting- this advice into operation.

A good breakfast dish to vary the monotony of chops, steak and sausages is "kidney a la Russe." Take an ox kidney and cnt it m thick slices (or sheep's kidneys skinned and halved) and some bacon rashers. Grease a saucepan with butter, then -put m a layer of bacon and a layer of kidney alternately, sprinkling the kidney with flour, and pepper (no salt). Add half a cup of water and a dessertspoonful of butter and simmer overnight for two hours — not boiling. In the morning heat up .and place the kidneys and bacon on a hot dish. Thicken "the gravy and pour over it. Serve very hot. Fashions from Sydney, a "few of which have been seen on the streets, are far from prepossessing, and we -have to thank our lucky stars that we don't take our cue from pur Aussie neighbors.^- They run to. the,, flamboyantly extravagant. "M.8.C." saw a couple of these new gowns the oth-

er day. ' One of them — brief as first love — was prettily built, but it was distorted with a series of braided loops; strung from the waist to the hem m an aimless derision of style. In fact, the lady looked like nothing more nor less than a hoppled pacer at Addington. The other was adorned with a falling, bunch of teasled silk pennants, frenetic to be free m any wind — a sort of cross between a sporran and a cat of nine tails — whilst her muff was adorned by a similar appendage. Frankly, she was only reminiscent of a. freshly -washed and combed poodle, .especially as her upper part was tightly clad m an almost' skin . fitting coat. ii . :: js ■ "I love every pore m your body"; "I love the ground you walk on." These sentences are taken from a letter which was brought up m evidence during a recent divorce, case, m which two well-known families are involved. Sounds very poetical and passionate, but let -us see. That means 7,000,000 pores to begin. with, the average number m a human ; body. Well, as each pore is about, a quarter of an 'inch m length, it. works out at about 27 miles, or a cubic mile if you prefer it. Hather a tall order for Cupid, isrit it? j: :: a ;"M.8.C." went to hear., all three' of the D'Alyarez concerts. This is the best tribute she can pay. to a glorious siriger and a woman of superb beauty and extraordinarily impressive temperament. /Auckland and Wellington are indeed favoured by having been given the opportunity oil hearing one of the voices of the century- , The worst of visiting the big grapery emporiums m the <nterests of my readers is that one comes away green with envy. and a much-depleted purse. I called m at several or the large houses last week with a view to having- a good lpok at the Spring fashions which have just been opened out, and was shown confections that simply make the mouth wate\ Hats will be of all shapes and sizss this Spring, but large transparent straws will be much m evidence, wreathed with flowers or feathjers. Bagdad is the most fashionable co l or, suggesting a"n orchid shade otter, taupe, and dune ore also much favored). It is quite new and v^ry smart. The . millinery generally ~is very much more artisuc. and less bizarre than of late, and there is a "happy absence of the massing together of clashing coiors which was so noticeable last season. Bird of Paradise plumes are another feature of some charming models. But they are all so beautiful that it is hard to make a. selection, and tl.at must be left to individual predilections. The floral trimmings are very unusual — mostly \pf French des'gn and manufacture, and the wreaths of fruit and foliage are strikingly beautiful and impressive. Better than all, they are markedly cheaper tha 1 they were at this time last year,, ani many of them come well within ttie reach of any reasonable purse. . . . ■ ■ v _. . Among the dress lengths, which are as infinite m variety as they are m charm of color and design,' I noticed some beautiful novelties m fine gabardine, the' color work m the various patterns being quite unique. One particularly pretty -dress length was of 'silk Swiss • poplin, tastefully embroidered m brown. Another pretty model which caught the eyes was m fawn crepe-de-chine, with pagoda sleeves, cut high round the neck, and embroidered with black beads. A. fawn coat and skirt was also very smart, the coat being of lace of trie exact shade of the skirt, lined' with georgette of a. deep rose hue — just the thing for the races or a wedding party. A fine line of Jersey silk coat frocks, m all shades, looked remarkable value at nine guineas. Some of the coat frocks, by the way, are very heavily embroidered m all shades. But probably the ratines for every dpy use were the most impressive ( Une. They are m the most tasteful co'urs and designs and are very, cheap compared . with, prices that have"' been ruling. Sleeves are to. bo worn long and loose and the necks of blouses and frocks are all cut high and round. For evening gowns skirt sprays of an exceptionally pretty character will be the, vogue, the favourite designs being dainty trails m orchid, mauve, lilac and pale yellow. The new parasols are much' smaller and prettier than those ruling- during recent years. — almost as small as the hats m some cases. and de- ] cicledly ' reminiscent of the early Vie* torian ei % a. ' I badly w oiled to acquire a. pale pink silk one lined with ruffled chiffon — but, alas, the price! :: „ -\: :: The beaded dress is everywhere just now, and it is perhaps beaded more sumptuously jthan. ever before. Mere spangles and glitter no longer carry the day. The beading m ; some cases almost vies with the fineness and patterning of that on ibead bags. A dress .entirely of saffron yellow was made with a loose bodice, with side draperies for the sleeves, and long fins and trails of the material ornamenting 1 the Nicies of the skirt. The yellow alone — and the promenade displays on Lamb ton Quay and m Queen Street, Cashel Street and Princes Street, are full of quaint yellows— suggested Egypt, but it was, m addition, beaded all over m yellow with close patterning and m Egyptian designs. The effect was remarkabiy rich, the subdued glitter of the beads, the fine embroidery work, and' the beautiful coloring lending it a very regal appearance. tt t: it Housework and its accomplishment is very usually^connected nvith a feeling of fatigue, a.nd consequently is regarded as hard work.' Very often, however, the blame should be attached to the method ' employed rather than the work itself. It is not washing-up that causes fatigue, but stooping over a too-low sink; \it is not paring vegetables that makes one's lugs ache, but standing m a "slouching" attitude with the weight on one hip. Right posture is an essential point m work efficiency. Standing badly — with stooping shoulders and weigh* unevenly balanced — interferes with the breathing .pid causes a feeling of ,r>r'-" 1 t rl l wfticinn aTI f!o~n -\},^ > ••>' • • • and is at the bottom of much of Ithe feeling of irritation so often experienced by a houseworker. Flat feet and broken arches are much more common m women than m men, and aie»e are largely due tv faulty btu.in.Uiia' and unsuitable shoos. Thought should be given to this point, and the weight of the body thrown on to the balls of the feet, not against the spine. Sensible shoes, with broad, flat heels m-o essential to the woman who has much

standing to do. The practice of deepbreathing exercises is of the very greatest help to the easily- tired worker, as it is practically impossible to breathe deeply and hold a very bad posture. A correspondent kindly forwarded me a cure for sunburn and for preventing freckling. Unfortunately I have mislaid the first slip of her letter. Would she kindly duplicate it for me?