Frills and Furbelows

New Zealand Times, Volume LIII, Issue 12507, 24 July 1926, Page 15

Frills and Furbelows

THE LATEST FROM PARIS

By

PAULINE COURLANDER

AH Rights Reseroed

Most of the best frocks to-day owo their charm to the way the material 'Js handled and to some exquisite needlework, rather than to elaborate trimming. Crepe satin frocks aro delightfully trimmed with strips and straps and scallops of the dull side of the material appliqued on to tho shiny side. Tho front of a long bodice may be adorned with two rows of scallops only just wide enough apart to allow a glimpse of a lawn or organdi vest. A tiny collar of the same is turned back over the rather high neck. An equally successful coat-frock has the upper half made of the shiny side

and the skirt, collar and cuffs of tho dull, with a little cream vest peeping through the fastening in the front. But these are clothes for sober occasions such as shopping and walks in the Bois. If we turn to gaiety and excitement, such as dinners at fashionable restaurants, we find frocks as light as thistledown and. full of dainty colouring. MODES IN WHITE White is being worn as much as it was earlier in the year, but its rather trying glare is softened by touches of soft colour; for instance, veilings of tulle, lace tunics, net scarves and large bunches of flowers on the hip or neck. Chiffon with a Border of enormous painted roses or peonies is used for the skirt and scarf, with a plain bodice apd no trimming at all round the neck. This tendency of ornamenting the hem and leaving the neck and sleeves of the frock or wrap plain is noticeable in chiffon, tulle or georgette frocks or wraps. The hem may have a printed border, ruche or flounce; something to give weight and importance to the lower part. In tulle frocks the foundation is almost as important as the tulle. It is often more like a complete princess dress with a corselet or hem design in tinsel thread, silk embroidery or beads. iiiHiimnmimiinimiimmiiiHimim

OVERDRESS AND TUNIC Sometimes lamo and satin are used together; sometimes beautifully tucked crop© do chiuo. Figured net, plain© tullo or spotted not with a. lace hem make up the overdress, and this as often as not has a full umbrella skirt with n,u uneven hem. If tho hem is oven all round, it is given importance by enormous rosette* ot ruches of tulle or taffetas. A frock like this nearly always lias its own wrap of georgette, chiffon, tullo or lace, and with it are worn very largo drooping hats with rather high crowns of laco tullo or crinoline straw. Their brims are narrower at the back, wide at the sides, and widest of all in the front; and they are : very simply trimmed with a flower oi ! a ribbon. ABOUT TAFFETAS There seems to be no reason why one should discontinue the pleasant habit of falling back on taffetas when in doubt, for all the best houses ar® showing taffetas models in more and more alluring shap6s. Also they aro mixing this fabric with all soits of unexpected materials. Who, for instance, would have thought of a taf-

fetas frock worn with a beige lightweight kasha coat aa a definite cm semblc? Yet we have this, sponsored by a dressmaker whoso word is law. The frock is simply made with a slim bodice and full skirt with broderie anglaise; tho long coat is lined with taffetas to match the frock —green in this instance—and the straw hat that is worn with it is trimmed with beige and green Petersham. If, however, yon retain a prejudice against mixing silk and heavier material such as kasha, you may have a two-piece suit of taffetas. The long rather loose coat is edged and cuffed with a wide, knife-pleated flounce. Tho frock also has this kind of flounce on the skirt which is draped into tho left side, making an uneven hem. Taffetas capes are worn in the evening with lace or tullo frocks, and for morning or afternoon there are gay little suits of plaid taffetas as to frock and a long or short coat of plain taffetas. COLOUR SCHEMES Mauve and grey are seen together, also mauve and purole, beige and orange, and blue and grey. I liked especially a grey foulard frock with full godet side panels rather longer

than the rest of the skirt, worn with 'a, transparent blue georgette ooaJt and a blue hat to match; while tlio accompanying gloves, slioes and stockiugs were grey. Our shoes and stockings are becoming more and more important and numerous. They must absolutely match or harmonise with the frock or hat or both. For instance, with a mauve georgette frock is worn a purple hat, purple shoes and gloves and mauve stockings. Navy blue kid shoes may be worn with grey or fleshcoloured stockings, and a navy blue hat and frock. Beige kid shoes and stockings are the most serviceable,

for they are “right” with beige, black, navy blue, and most of the pastel shades. Gloves are exquisitely embroidered on the cuffs; generally *in tiny chainstitch, flower or arabesquo patterns, and gloves and hat of the same colour are often seen, with perhaps a bag or umbrella or stick to match. MILLINERY MODES At many of the recent “shows” ,tlxe mannequins have illustrated a pretty new vogue. Long strips of ribbon, matching the hat, are tied in a how at the left- of the neck. The little bow has long floating ends reaching down to the hip-line. This length is the important point; anH the fashion can be very fascinating and graceful on tlio right wearer when this essential rule is observed. Ends that are too short merely succeed in looking “bitty” and the very reverse of “chic.” Another point in favour of these floating streamers is the touch of real femininity they impart to the severely shingled silhou-' ette, without spoiling the “cleanness” of the contour. iinimmiinimmiinnnnnnmimnnin;