“SHODDY” BOOTS FOR SOLDIERS

New Zealand Times, Volume XL, Issue 9093, 12 July 1915, Page 4

“SHODDY” BOOTS FOR SOLDIERS

To the Editor "N.Z. Times.” Sir,—With your kind permission I should like to reply to some of the strictures of your correspondent “Cordwaiuer.” Tho term ‘‘shoddy” cannot Ire applied to any army hoots made under the present specifications of the Defence Department. The objection to a split lining is veilfounded, but the present specification is as follows: "The vamp lining is to ho out from chrome tanned calf, cow or ox hides of approved substance, and must have the grain on.-’ If this is carried out then yonr correspondent's statement that the grain is required for tho necessary resistance, was provided for by the party who drew np the specifications. The present regulation boot is of a totally different design to what is l known as the territorial boot, and' I think “Cordwaincr” must have got holdi of tire wrong sample, or some boots that ‘ have been made to fill an emergency order. Tho method of bottoming, particularly the fastening with brass screws, etc., is that adopted and specified by N the British War Office; this I have before me as I write, signed by A. Y. Barton. LieutColonel, C. 1.0., R.A.C.D., November 17tb, 1914.

It is not to be inferred that no welted boots are made for army use, but it is no longer tho standard* sealed sample. The hand-sewn welted, boot was dethroned during the Soudan campaign for two reasons, viz., the impossibility of obtaining supplies at abort notice and its rmsuiahilitv to tho dry, sandy soil of Egypt and the Soudan. The first large army contractor to change over was Messrs Spencer and Co., Sotnlingborp, Northamptonshire, and the writer was in charge of the conversion. This was in. the winter of 1895-6. Since then tho machine-made boot has steadily increased, and the hand-welted boot has decreased in numbers. The machine-welted boot is the regulation boot of the United States of America and Eranoe, but under present conditions France has purchased quantities of all kinds of hoots. Tho pros and cons of machine fastenings are interesting to the initiated, but too technical for tho general public. The officer in charge of the footwear for our soldiers was evidently wise in his generation; he adopted tho standard British army boot, modified only in the bottoming, and oven in this particular there is a very similar British army boot. The question of the fitting of tho different types of feet lias received no attention from the authorities, but under normal conditions the lasts used by the different manufacturers provide a fair choice. Undoubtedly there is a fair percentage that can only be fitted by special boots to measure, and in some instances this has been done.

The inspection of the boots at the Defence Stones is very rigid, some think too much so, but be this as it may, no boot can be too good for the soldier, and under conditions that allow of the very best product, nothing short of the very best should be accepted. Many of the first expeditionary force had the kip boot referred to by "Cordwainer,” those who had been through the South African war wore emphatic in their preference; the Palmerston , fund purchased several hundreds of pairs; but tl{e British authorities who had used kip for a century practically abandoned it, and our authorities like wise men followed. "Cordwainer’' is evidently a good practical shoemaker, whom it would lie a pleasure to meet, but he must remember that the local authorities have a difficult task,'the numbers they have to deal with are to them large, and the boot is not an easy one to manufacture. Great difficulty was experienced in England at first, and many ways had to be devised to enable the authorities to obtain the boots required. On a smaller scale the same difficulties are here, and will also have to be met in some way as yet undisclosed; blit finally "Mr Cordwainer” the present

regulation boot is not "shoddy.” No, sir, not by n long way. Come and see it being made.—l am, etc., Charles j. ward.