THE FASHIONS

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXII, Issue 7057, 19 February 1910, Page 11

THE FASHIONS

THE ART OF GOOD DRESSING. SOME BEAUTIFUL GOWNS. NEW SEASON'S HINTS. (Specially .written for -fjho "New .1 Zealand Times.") / It ,is the duty and should .be tho pleasure of 'every woman to rnako tho most of her appearance), but unfortunately every woman does not, simply ■(because the art of good dressing is .understood by few.

By good dressing I do* .not mean following eagerly in Dlame Plashion's footsteps and .adopting every new fad .and .whim, ncv yet by buying costly fabrics, but iby adapting the newest fashions to one's particular Style. Of courso there is the other extreme, tho conservative few, who prefer the old stylo, and regard every, now fashion with disfavour, often, (declaring them to be loud or yulgat,/

Every woman looks her. 'best in evening dress, and for tho iclever woman who studies each detail _ of her appearance, slices, gloves, hair, :eto., thero is .a splendid' opportunity this season of creating absolute harmony.

Another style almost the same idea is in soft satin charmeuso of exquisito shade of palo gold. The ekirt is pleated, arid above the pleats tho gown is moulded closely to the figure, and adorned with a trimming of fine) gold lace, and silk soutache embroidery in the same shade. At the back tho fkirt is arranged with two broad pleats ,bf satin., starting from tho waist nnts /crossing each other in the centre. Tho bedace is made entirely cf fine gold lace, having elbow sleeves with ur»dereleoves of gold netj

Another lovely model is of pale blue cihiffon over .satin, veiled with flowing draperies of black ninon do solo held under tho arms by a. garniture of brilliant embroidery intermingled with an elaborate jewellin.g in pearls and palo blue sapphires; long lines of jot'and sapphiro embroidery running downwards add to the charm c\s this Mack nin.on, do soie overdress. Tho graceful ourvo cif the decolletago is outlined' with jet anfl jewelled embroidery, while elbow sleeves of black ninon cut open nlcHiy; tho outer arm show nnderaleeves of fine silver lace, jewelled with diamonds and sapphires.

Jet still remain's in vogues—in brodcrks it is mingled with gold Steele or chenille. Quite a> novelty is the .large meshed net, formed of jet tubular beads. This is Gold in Kha.pn of piece lace in. bands or insertions and is used as trimming for a complete Par tunics <.lr overdresses. Jet earrings are lalso much worn, but are not exactly beautiful, or becoming although smart.

The fabrics for ovening wear are to bo delightfully .sedtt and clingrng—soft

s'atins, nfnon, de goto, chiffons, etc., in wonderful veiled 'effects, completely talcing the place of .harder glacos and taffetas. Quito a new material is tlio soft ottoman .brocade, patterned \riibh conventional designs, and when mttdo timply is decidedly .htindstome.

CtasEic'al styles f-rxr both, go-wn. and hair And favour with tho majority, and keep at bay tho bulging pamners Mid flounced skirts .with which wo aio periodically threatened. When thin ctyle is worn by slender women, with Ct'iceful carriage the result is delightful.

One beautiful gown of this description ,ds in flesh-pink, soft satin with tunic, givinpj rpii-.il effect, reaching i-i feet at one' ails in 'front, and cmaiii;; quite short at back on the o-pposito hip. As if to keep the. pink diraperics in place on bodice, there are bands of silver embroidery bordering the square cub neck .and crossing tho bust at one side to finish, amongst the folds of the tunic at back. Absolutely no'sleeves, nothing but bands of silver embroidery over the shoulders. The simplicity of this gown, is its ch'arm, but it would need to. be worn by a woman, with good arms, neck and shoulders to give the effect. ■■■■'.

Black will be much, in evidence this winter, " though mostly in sequin robes. The latter will be worn morethan last season, taking the form of complete ■•'tight-fitting over-dress,_ in, some cases reaching tho foot of skirt. These robes, in black, silver, or opaltinted sequins, or in silk or guipure lace, look very handsome, and . renovate an old evening dress, being especially smart over whito satin, and as almost >: every woman has an old satin gown .should prove .useful for theatre wear or bridge parties. '

Whito, of course, is most suitablo for young girls, but ■ even on the freshest beauty •is inclined to look - rather insipid unless skilfully made. Hoivever, there' is such a variety of bright trimmings to be obtained now, and touches, or, -rather, suggestions of colour can be introduced to relieve the monotony of white.

'i, No sleeves are quite a feature of the season's gowns, although many* short, and some elbow-sleeves will be worn, mostly close-fitting, and in some cases mado' simply of beaded not covered with chiffon. This veiled effect.is to be very popular, many dresses, being made of layer upon layer of muslin, lace, or,not.

Very elaborate embroideries Worked in soft floss nilk apnonr upon many of tho most successful evening cowns, and is delightful work for dainty fin(2PTS. The clever woman can have splendid rcwuJts with little expenditure. This work is seen to special advantago in simple frock of ivory white ninon hotline and skirt adorned' with silk embroidery intermingled with light r.hower of d-iimomd sequins and crystal bugles or silver threads. This is placed over lining of nousscline de .soio of any colour, which forms a pretty iridescent effect, with tho metalised tulle. Tho scarf is bordered with a band e-f marten, which also fringes tho er-.cis.

For a young girl a scarf of white moussclino do uoie, made in largo pleats, alternating with bands of swan's-down, held in at the ends by big pompoms of the swan's-down, is very effective. Another dainty stylo is, shaped like a cassock, made in either soft satin or corded silk trimmed with Oriental embroidery, and finished at tho ends with ta3sels either of gold or silver, or of silk to match shade c-f material in wrau.

Stockings should tone with evenings gowns if possible, and such a variety of beautiful shades aro procurable now that'it is not difficult to get an almost perfect match. Openwork' stocking's are coolest and daintiest for. evening wear, and many pretty designs in embroidery are seen on the newest of these. Gloves, too, should match shade oi gown, but these are more' difficult to procure. Of course, whito gloves always look well either in kid or- suede, the latt* looking much softer in colours. Kid seems to make colour harder, but suede are delightfully soft and dainty. Elbow length seems to bo the favourito, and certainly .. looks much smarter than tho very high gloves—unless tho longer glove is kept in place abovo the olbow with a bracelet, Too often they are not, but. allowed to wriggle down the arm in a draggled stylo—very unbecoming, especially to the owner of thin - arms. Shoes this ,Beason are - procurable in almost every shade, in suede, kid, or satin, and they, too, must blond with stockings, gloves, and gown. Heels are not quite so high as formerly, but quite high enough to give the effect of high instep, which most women strive after. Golden shoes and stockings are much in vogue, and, although lovely,.are riot economical, for when worn,a few, times lose their fresh brightness. More useful, again, are the bronze slippers, with stockings to match, and for ordinary evening wear tho smart patent leather is unequalled. These, of course, look best with openwork or embroidered stockings in black. :

A lovely gown in this style is in old blue charmeuso, covered with grey mousseline de sole, lightly .em-, broidored with metallio threads. 1 Although tho corsage 'Was quito high at the neck, tho effect was nevertheless audaciously decollete, being of a complete transparenc© undor the, pearly tints of muslin and lacea. This association of grey muslin and blue foundation was a veritable success. Another designi of pale- rose liberty was veiled with black net, "the edge of which was entirely covered with an ombroidery of tiny iridised beads; the quite new sleeves mado of beaded not and trimmed with two bands of liborty, fixed by jewelled buckles. "Velvet will bo popular in all shades, and really makes a glorious ball gown, especially when trimmed with fur, ermine being tho richest and daintiest. Black velvet and old lace ,has always been a favourite evening gown, and nothing can look more beautiful, especially made in the close-fitting princess Btylo, and falling away from the figure in graceful folds—a simple bortba of lace is all this stylo of gown requires.

Fox quite young girlb lovely sheiitb. dnesses for balls can be mado from not wofrn over transparent linings of luminous shades. Fringes offlawers are used for trimming the 'borders of such robes. Many beautiful effects are obtained by having; the undexdress of soft satin, covered mnon de sode, tho under dress being heavily trimmed with laoe anwl tho overdress dainttily trimmod -with 'blonde lace. A pretty li'tulo; model of deep pink satin with high waist Tel'ioved by touches of pale blue, has an overdress of pale- pink ninon' with bolt of eoft blue satin. I

A dainty innovation in the season's fashions suitable for either dance enf theatre wear are the laco coats. ; These nppear to form pa-rt of gown,.and fitting tightly round waist reach'below tho hips. They have very short sleeves, in many none at all, and are of course dicolloto, but are pretty and becoming Tvoni oiver pailo shades of pinks, blues, greens, etc.