SMART STYLES IN VANITY FAIR.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXX, Issue 6623, 12 September 1908, Page 12

SMART STYLES IN VANITY FAIR.

MESSRS KFRCALDIE AND STAIN’S SPRING DISPLAY. NEW FASHIONS ILLUSTRATED. The first glance round the vast showrooms at Messrs Kircaldie and Stain’s assures the visitor that good taste and excellent choice rrign paramount, and those who appreciate quality and distinction will do well to pay this establishment a visit. This firm provide most generously for all purses, and though the cncap and undesirable garment is sever .seen within their doors, they are as well supplied with.'pretty things at moderate prices as anybody in Wellington, just as with the same admirable appreciation, Lucy keep tho loveliest and most exclus-

ive models in stock. Ail tho new materials are to be found in tho dress department. To begin with there are tho Mnpcii crystallines, which will enjoy a great vogue. This material somewhat re-s-uunos marquisette, ana is to be had, in douDlc v.iaui. For more serviceable wear there arc the “cameo” striped lineiis in aauuy colouring. Tne lamous iiarns linens arc in he* had in lour fraod.es oi urown and L.ue, and the iusciuatmg French ayou Irieus m thirty ciuieroni shades, wiuch at bd uio yaru, double width, represent murwiiouaiy good value. For the little tralor-matio •summer gown there is a wide range in cream striped suitings in latest weavings. Marquisettes m Parisian iioral designs and exclusive length, Parisian muons, satin striped and plain, chiffon umoa (a lighter make), filet net, satin striped Russian net, for the composition Dt race, garden party, or ball frocks, are to be here seen in bewildering variety. Patterns arc despatched far and : near, ond nil who are contemplating new. gowns should ask for selections to bo sent if they cannot pay a personal visit.

The costume department upstairs was next visited, where T was first shown some lovely spring wraps, and dust coats. The new Japanese effects were observable in all these models, and I got my first introduction to the ‘‘'trouser” sleeve, which is one of the very latest whims of Dame Fashion/ These' Wraps are developed in many materials; the most fascinating, perhaps, being those in artshades of Shantung silk, the collars and cuff? trimmed with silk soutache and applications of hand-embroidered lawn. A desirable garment of this class was in champagne sicillicnne, the collar and cuffs appliqued with linen embroidery. There vraa a wide range in costumes, from smart tailor-mades to tho more ornate frock, for reception of fete wear, and a-1 exhibited cachet and orginality. One most beguiling frock of tho latter 'class, was of /ieui rose checked canvas showing the new border; it was made in peplum effect, and inset with filet insertions. The brciellw, continuing into the rucked fdeeves in the most approved mode, disclosed a pretty vest of Paris lace, with Oriental embroidery and gold touches, a folded belt of old rose silk completing a most fascinating ensemble. A semi-Empire gown of palo blue chiffon taffetas, with invisible stiipe, had sleeves of Irish guipure, and dainty little finishlags in the shape of buttons and threadings of silk through the lace. Very exclusive was a model composed of ivory filet net, the skirt having hands and French folds of taffetas. The shortwaistod bodice had bretellca of floral painted satin continuing into eash ends, broadening at the lower parts, and overlain with Irish lacc, picked out with coriings and touches of gold over a vest of soft tucked Parisian net. The folded belt was fastened with a diamond-shaped painted satin buckle, and there wer* various little finishing touches in the shape oi gold tassels and danglements. These models are daintily finished in every detail.

In contrast to these exceptional garments, which run into several guineas, dainty frocks of embroidered muslin were shown, ranging from 21s upwards with "in-betweens” innumerable. i.o that it will be seen all tastes and pockets are catered for at this house. The frocks seen here are not of that dull rnd uninteresting kind which are turned out by the gross, but each bears the trace of original thought and some pretty distinctive note. This remark applies equally to the 'Tittle” tailor-mades, which, ranging from 52s 6d, are of vaceptional cut. Accompanied by a touch of dainty lingerie and a pretty hat such a gown would insure for its wearer -n air of distinction, among more am Htious garments- This department is also largely stocked with dainty lace trimmed negligics and tea gowns in beaut:fnl colourings.

The beautiful showroom devoted to millinerr wan next visited. This was filled with as lovely a collection of hate as it hss ever been my lot to ere, and T can well understand why well-dressed women come or send from all over the Dominion to buy hst* at- jvirkcaldie and Stains. A chapeau from this famous house is eynonymnua with excellence of fast*- and the last word of millineri-aj modernity. The range is not alone exceedingly choice, but varitd in the last degree. It seems to me to become more

and more difficult to say with, any truth that this or that stylo uj tho faahiea, for there are so many fashions.

You may wear a large hat—a gigantic bat in fact, a small hat, or a toque, for all are fashionable. Then, again, the great French milliners, responsible for the more exclusive models hcra di-v pUved* hare evidently aimed et keeping their stylefl somewhat distinct, and while one makes a cult of the large hat, another prefers the toque, and while mo has a liking for artistic styles, ajiatker prefer* tkoee that are chic.

fpaee forbids ft detailed description ef tne madela acted; but’ a personal visit will enable ladiec to see for thetr.ee!vos how wide th© range nnd how choice the variety of tho spring hats hero displayed.

Of tho blouses on show there is a long and important story to tell. It would Ivo impoceibl© to imagine anything more e-herral and than eomo of these models, composed—no other word adequately describes it—at the beet French *nd English houses by “blouee specialists”—a now order of artist lately come into {prominence. Ono exceedingly ctheioal confection w«-.c of white chiffon with a chiffon lining. It was decorated with pin tuckery, rdiei being afforded by a little- embroidery of the same gauzy material, with touches of Pekin blue, /noiher of all-over lace hnd a tucked chiffon front with guipure motifs, and brctellciS of guipure. The sleeves were composed of frills of lace with a full emnicccmcnt of tucked chiffon, and the throe-quarter cuffs were finished with Valenciennes frillcrv. One becomes lost in contemplation of the intricacies and wonderful detail of come- of theso blouse©. Section© of pin tuckery in crepe do chine, Valenciennes, and At*lteac lace, Irish crochet, filet insertions and open work etitchery were combined, in ono model in a subtly artful manner 1 which baffles description. The beet of tho models are hand.made, and the pries uflked for them (six guineas) is not at all out of the way for those who can afford it. People of moderate means are catered for in net and silk models, also of Parisian make, some of these being as low priced as 15s fcd. A cameo grey glace silk, inset with the loveliest insertions and motifs, was not at nil dear at four guineas, nor a pastel blue taffetas with lovely tuckery and Oriental embroideries at a lesser figure. Embroidered lingerie blouses range from 6s lid to three guinea*. 0»« in Persian lawn and broderis AurLuse, combined; with guipure and Valenciennce, with a ! plain pin tucked back, was a most dc-‘ eiraWle, yet expensive Msiraplicity.”' The group of blouses illustrate. 1 give very fair idea ©f the "in between” style of blouse procurable «t this .famous house. I should like to descant on many other charming etceteras seen during my tour of inspection, but space forbids.

No chroniclo of tho faaliioos of th« rB -'>? cnt would bo coraoleto, howover, v. itiiout a reference to tho season 1 © para?ols. Thooo of chine silk with painted borders are most foecinatinff. One in irory tint had _ a border of naetel blue i i piok fiowera, and * dainty chatelaine to match, intended for th’» handkerchief, was attached to the han--I.A , *'''.!,?*• V'-JCeo parasols range from ISs 6d to 395. In tussore silk the-r are proourabie from 8s lid. In oonclu-iou, nlthoa-h this well-known fact soaroelT needs emphasising, the firm of Kirkcaidio and Stains is a pioneer in all that la best in the ivorltf of drees in New dealand, and nobody who- buys there ever repents of haring done so, since ihl powers that be insist! not on j“L Tory rigorous attention to the d-V?w meats m sartorial circles, but «act th ? if orervthmg upon the premises skairL in the best tasto possible. U M