MY LADY’S MIRROR

New Zealand Times, Volume XXX, Issue 6411, 7 January 1908, Page 7

MY LADY’S MIRROR

NOTES ON FASHIONS. •MILLINERY AND FROCKS. Hat shapes develop, and .they develop strangely at the same time. One may speak ot many of the shapes as quaint, ami some, i note, speak ot them as bewitching in addition. i t 'lox)py hats suit some faces exceedingly well, but they doji’t suit all, and so there is mucji variety. Late hats are wide-brimmed, and boar much riubon and flow era, Tho bandeau, by the way, is dwarfing fast; in fact with some hats there is little or iKino at all. Very new models have a narrow front brim and a wide drooping back one. Large boas x»lay a prominent part with these, and very encctually. rho JJoliy Varden, which 1 prophesied last winter is a bewitemng thing; likewise the poke bonnet has possibilities. X read that the dominant plume will be, in fact, is a white feather with a shaded tip. Or a black feather with a shaded yellow tip is choice and tasteful. I don't think X ever saw so much artistic head gear with such a variety to choose from. Tho . shapes, taken all round suit more faces and ages than is usually the case, and as I remarked before, never were they so suitable for our climate. While small Mowers are worn, tho rule is tho cluster ns against the,open spray. This is commendable, as nothing looks worse, in my opinion, than as attenuated floral hat decoration.

Roses naturally lead, as they ever must, because of their artistic character. No flower compares with tho rose for what artists call “drawing/' and outside of tills it has many things in its favour which no other flower can lay claim to. Tho variety in roses is wonderful, but i then this is only in imitation of nature. Apropos which there is a very pretty legend as to how tho rose came into existence and what caused its colours. Tho story runs that ever so many ages ago a beautiful maiden was sentenced to bo burnt at the stake for crimes of which, in truth, she was innocent. As tho flames started she prayed that a miracle might happen to demonstrate her innocence, instantly the burning brands underwent a wondrous transformalion. Tho wood became fragrant rose bought, and tlie tongues of flame, having been arrested, were turned into rose petals which united and formed blossoms or blooms of red, white, and yellow. Of couic-o tho lady was saved, and presumably later on married a prince out of a fairy book, and was happy ever after. I often wonder if all theso old legends aro half as old as they say they are. Some of them I expect are imaginative literary creations.

Au attractive frock is in Persian lawn. Freoly fitting it is kimono style, the sleeve being served with bands of insertion, two narrow and one deep, over a lace foundation. The yoke is of this lace again, with a smart little tie to set it off, and the insertion is employed round the elbow. A plain, medium high girdle divides tho bodice from the skirt, and tho latter falls freely with some fulness to the foot. The skirt is trimmed like the sleeve, though in key fashion, and not straight around. It is a .simple enough frock from any standpoint, but is a very pleasing one nevertheless.

Striped fabrics are very abundant, and foulards are very large-spotted occasionally, Spots may be combined with stripes, but the purity of one or the oilier is better, I think. liven with some of tho embroidered muslins w? *ice the stripe, which is counterfeited by groupings of the embroidery and in other ways. Cheeked taffetas are decidedly .stylish, and a nice, idea in striped effects is a striped silk base, veiled with plain tiillco or laces. The feminine wardrobe just now can take in many ideas in the way of waistcoats, which are made rc-

movable for tailored frocks, with which tney are calculated to “go/' Them waistcoats are smart .when they button over well at the bustiine, and run to nothing, as it were, tho two sides forming the lines of a pronounced “V/' uiuugn one line naturally overlaps the other. Among very nice accessories is the bretelle in ribbon lace and galon. As a rule, these run into tho belt, but not always, as they may have a horizontal hue above the waist, the same cuntinuing under tho anna. Coloured linen coatees are something to recommend just now, for they go with checked taffetas admirably, and also with pretty well ail washing dresses, Lmbroideiy *vas never more lavish nor yet so beautiful. it is seen in such profusion that i suspect the manufacturers are a bit puzzled to supply the demand.

By tho way, it is always useful to know tilings associated witu ironing. 1 came across an item the other day, telling the reader how to poiisu linen. Tneihiormation applies to men’s suirts, 1 see, but tnat uuusiTt discount its value, fiiere are the essentials, and you can apply them to such articles of your own as are likely to lx* benemed by me process mentioned. It is a good plan to procure a polishing iron, and'- proceed oy laying the shirt smoothly on tne table. iNow slip tho plain side of-the ironing board underneath tho breast of tho shirt; tho wood for theso 'boards must be perfectly smooth and free from knots. Squeeze the damper tightly out of tho cold water and rub it over tho part of tiie shirt to be polished, but very lightly, so as not to wot more than tho merest surface. Take the hot iron and work it in semi-circular movements up and down over the place just rubbed. Remember, it is with'the nose of the iron this is done, and as quickly as possible, if tho result is to bo good. The folding of a shirt is ■ sometimes found to be rather troublesome. Lay the shirt breast downwards on the table, the neck at tho left hand and the hems at the right. Catch hold of the farthest cuff and bring it straight across to you, thus folding over a small piece of the front as well, but keeping the starched breast untouched. Now turn the cuff away, so folding the sleeve neatly across nearly at itft top. Catfch the cuff again, and point it straight towards the hem of the shirt, which will make another fold on the sleeve at right angles with tho lost; fourthly, take the cuff again and bring it the least little bit above the neckband; this folds the sleeve quite across the middle. Proceed in the same way with the other sleeve, then eaten tho two shoulders together and fasten them with a pin, one on the top of .the other, keeping the folded sleeves inside. Take out of this whatever is likely to suit your own linen blouses, and there you are.

An elegant gown in either coloured linen or voile is absolutely plain. The coatee is smart and dressy, is simply made with insertion or trimming to outline and with silk facing for the cuff and hip piece. A brocaded vest gives a very pleasing finish, and this is doublebreast cut away to nothing. The gown is fitted for a functional one down to a mere picnic frock according to the materia) and value, and is eminently suited to a slender figure. The skirt is a gored one flaring at the foot, which adds to its smartness.

Lingerie parasols are especially fino just now. They were good enough, you will say. last season, but they are much finer this Embroidery is lavished on some of of the batiste examples, and machine-made ornaments are applied with equal freedom. Inset laces are cxenusito, but the finest of all are parasols, the panels of which are worked with design? in keeping or sympathy with the shape, tho parasol being finished with a laco flour cp. I have been reading about an exhibition parasol of this latter character, where each panel had an embroidered basket at the foot ef the panel, from which u bouquet of tendrilly blooms ro c e in artistic fashion to halfway up the dome. I should say that a

parasol of this character would only be nt lor someone witn a purse of inordinate lengcn, and tnen only for a very special xunoiion. ino lingmie parasol is an elegant tiling if it m good, and u very hue audition to u line frock and nut*

Ladies will appreciate something relating to good lace, now, in met, lo menu ic. Ail meso items aro best when pasted into a scraxj-uook —the bcudoir reference nook. As a rule embroideries last much longer than tut* background they omail exit, and can sometimes bear several transfers. : Lor tne puipose, the decorative work is placed wnoiiy or partially on a new material, suen as linen. The old work, blmigciieiied, is first applied as if stands in Us ragged state on tho fresh ground, which is properly stiffened at the back with stout glazed xmxjer. The outlines of the most important motifs aro then accentuated and secured by a line run-stitch, and overcast afterwards with buttonholing; the cutting away of tno worn out parts is now attended to. a process lor which sharp embioidery scissors aro needed, and a great deal of care in Older not to snip the foundation' material whim casting 1 off the old parts.. To utilise as edgings detached motifs of guipure or embroidery for a collar or various parts of a garment, the articles should first be shaped, put together and well fitted. Right over the edges tho embroidery is sewn on very finely, and from underneath the surplus stuff is removed in such a way as to have a kind of selvedge, made by. just rolling the frayed edges with the thumb and keeping it in place with loose herringbone stitches on the wrong side. The worker must be careful to neither draw nor unduly tighten the thread for fear of epoling the smoothness.

The summer of 1907-8 will remain-fam-ous in the history of fashion for the beautiful simplicity of its designs, tho richness of its materials, and the freedom which characterises the use cf modish lace and embroidery. Probably also it will be a long time ore we have another corresponding season so*-, distinguished for the gorgeousuess but harmonious nature of its colour schemes. In the many old time gauzes and sheer cobwebby materials, so high in popular favour, we can detect the good taste of our grandmothers, for they were all in evidence in their time, albeit, necessarily, the make was hardly so good nor the colours so rangeful. Smart suits, with the coat for a feature, -are in shantung and pongee, and linen popular everywhere. - A notable thing is the extent to which we may wear fancy shades, linens being exhibited in endless shades, includin’* “sombres,” as brown, wine, and shadowy blue. A favourite shade is helio, and other nice shades are greys, from light smoke to the intenscst variety; likewise russet, maize, and old apricot. For evening wear soft silks and satins prevail, while voile, print*; crepe de chine in bordered and striped effects, pongee and foulards lead in soft finished fabrics. The dominant note in all present-day costuming is finish. A woman may be excellently well-dressed, and yet lack the subtle something which gives tho modest woman a kind of hall mark. I may express my meaning shortly and effectually by declaring that a well-dressed woman must also be "wellgroomed” to pass muster with the best.

The trimming in millinery is now so ornate, that I cannot help thinking that the milliner who would evolve a hat with two interchangeable sets of trimming, which eoul 1 be easily fixed and removed, would create qni-e a sensation, and win a good many guineas for her nains. A daring suggestion? Perhaps, but so was that which proved the prophecy of tho detachable dross petticoat flounce. Tvhat is there to prevent « skilful worker front designing two distbmt trimmings for the one foundation in head g«ar, the hat being fnrnblwo with invisible clasps of some character or o-'her io meet corresponding attachments on the built piece of trimming. Of o n n thing I am certain, the scheme is feasible, the only thing in the way

of it being prejudice, and perhaps orUioaoxy. xc nub never been nunc ucfore, ana mat is all mat there is to be saw! against it; but mcse are moving times, aud the ingenuity of the fasnion creator nas to bo pretty well limitless to survive. 1 can picture in my minds eye a hat with two sets of trimmings, each of the latter being so perfectly uiiuiu as to drop on the snape, and assume its proper position’ at once. Uf course it wouldn't do ior every kind of hat, but that is a question which could be answered by practice —what hat would he absurd lor the purpose, and what hut wouid benefit by such an innovation, lor my part 1 am strong on “detachablcs," as they mean variety, aud this is the spice of modern dressing.

"The drama of dress” is the expression of one authority on style, and a loading part in it is played by ribbon. Ribbon loops and ends give a finishing touch of smartness to toilettes, whicii, without them, would look rather oidinary. A great deal is to bo learnt in the way of manipulation if you would fashion your bow yourself. It is as easy as pan be to fix up bows and rosettes when you know how, but the- trouble is to know without instruction. A first prinicple in bow-tying is this—the tighter you make the waist of the bow, the easier and more luxurious will the loops be. A first-class maker of bows has laid down the details of guidance in the following way: “.Begin by holding the piece of ribbon in tho left hand. From the first loop, and with the fore-finger of tho right'hand thrust into tho loop, straighten it before forming tho. second one. The length of the loop should take into consideration tho width of the ribbon. Keep tho loop always taut by means of this straight fore-fingeY, and then lay the pleat for the waist of the bow. It is best to lay this in ono big side pleat, although some pretty effects are- gained by laying it in r box pleat. When this is done, secure it by winding with a stout thread. Proceed with the other loops in the same manner. There con be no hard-and-fast rule as to the number of loops or the shape of the bow. That must be a matter of taste, and depends somewhat on the purpose for which the bow is destined. Always work from the outside towards you, in forming the loops and arranging them, one on the other. It is always better to dispense with the wire stiffening for bows if possible, and except in cases of very long loons, such as are usually required for hat trimming, it is not necessary.”

Kosett© making—-and rosettes are much in favour—is a different thing, and probably thev require more skill than mere bows. Take velvet ribbon, and a line of rosettes very useful for the border of the neck of an evening blouse is made by sewing narrow strips together lengthwise. This makes a tube, through which pass a wire, and then twist the loops into shape. Probably this is the simplest rosette you ear. fashion, but is more of a rosette border than anything else. A rosette of ribbon may bo made of loops alone, and nothing is better to work on than narrow ribbon, doubled and pressed, tho turn being uppermost. It takes skill to make a rosette in this way, but then the perfected rosette so fashioned is the only real one. An admirable rosette may also be made from one piec- of silk in two semi-circular worked up sections, the silk being "fanned/' and if building is wanted, laid in graduated layers.

A princess© style of dress of highly artistic character hna for its basis a cbif- ! fon voile. The front has a V yoke, bor- ! dm-ed with silk, with a Valßiicieimc' inset, and note that this is square at tho back. Tho garment is absolutely plain in front save for this, the line? of a good figure gaining thereby, of course, as vou will guess a line of buttons goes from yoke to font. The back is prettily studied, tho material bein'; gathered under silk bordered key, the pleats falling out to the foot. The lace fdoeves are full to the elbow where they gather into long cuffs of the sill: already referred to. The dress thus brief-

ly described is elegant and artistic, and eminently up-to-date.

A very pretty way in which to wear blouse sets of three is on a scarf tie, tae length of the blouse. bring the scarf around the neck, and break in trout with a bow. Then let it hang down the blouse with widening effect to a few inches otf tho girdle, drawn in in a kno., which pin, and lot the cud hare to the girdle height. Then down the front use tho blouse set, when, if the silk is darn, tho set-otf will bo beautiful. All the same, the shade of the silk should be governed by the complexion of..the set, white pansies, fbr instance, with a dash of colour in the centre on a darker shade of material, and blue pansies, touched with yellow, on a scarf Uo ol white. When 1 single out pansies, it is as a first thought. A tiny butterfly would be equally pictiy, or a boe. iou can get so many designs in these blouse sias. that one heed not mention any particular design as a chief. And you c- -

1 thing, gut sets oi men sue or graduated, the latter being specially nice.