THE HIGHLANDER’S KILT.

New Zealand Times, Volume LXXVII, Issue 5474, 31 December 1904, Page 10

THE HIGHLANDER’S KILT.

WEARING OF PLAIDS REVIVED. In mediaeval survivals the twentieth century is poor. Prom the romantic and historic point of view the most remarkable is undoubtedly that of tho great Highland clans, says. London “Sketch/ 1 The ruthless cruelty with which the great Jacobite Rebellion of Mo was stamped out went far to extinguish the Soots system of feudal clanship, for at one moment it was felony for a Highlander to wear his beautiful and becoming native dress. Thanks, however, to the constant efforts made by Highland chieftains, the act passed in 1747 was finally repealed, and in 1782 the Highlander was once more free to wear the kilt. At once all those Scots interested in tho Highlands banded together to encourage the wearing of the national costume. The splendid courage shown by the Highland kilted .regiments in the Napoleonic wars gave pause to even the fiercest opponents of the Stuarts and endeared, the Highlanders to tho reigning dynasty. Queen Victoria's passionate interest in all that concerned the romance of Scotland and Highland fealty to their chiefs was one of the striking ‘traits in her character. Even when in the South her body servants were from Deeside and habitually wore their native dresses, and the King when in Scotland always wears the traditional H : ghland garb and Stuart tartan. Although the various clans differ greatly in membership, there are- actually seventy to eighty distinguished Scots families who have a right to a distinctive plaid, and, indeed, to the wearing of more than one tartan. Of those headed by the great Dukes perhaps tho most remarkable hail as chieftain the Duke of Argyll, who is head of the Campbell clan. Then comes the Duke of Montrose, chief of the Grahams, one of whose immediate predecessors actively concerned himself in bringing about the repeal of the act which bade fair to extinguish the kilt ; the Duke of Atholl, who has done everything in his power to keep up tho traditions attaching to Clan Murray, and whose eldest eon, Lord Tullibardine, may be said to bo the authority on the modern fighting Highlander; and, lastly, the Duke of Sutherland, who heads perhaps the oldest of the Scots clans, for it claims to be descended from the remnants of tho Celtic population who inhabited the north of Scotland before the Scandinavian invar sion. ,

Many touching stories might bo told concerning fife feeling of kinship which binds the members of a clan, both to one another and to their chieftain. In hig own tract of country a Highland chief is regarded with almost superstitious veneration by the hundreds who bear his name, and this feeling, far from dying out with the advance of Bp-called civilisation, tends to increase, especially since many of the latter day chieftains now take their duties seriously. An interesting example of this ia shown by the conduct ofyoung Lord Lovat, head of the Frasers. He is the largest landowner in Inverness, and the South African war gave tho young owner of Beaufort Castle a great opportunity, of which he availed himself; for he raised several com panic* of ecouts. Those Highlanders proved themselves invaluable auxiliaries to the regular army, and their young chieftain received the personal thanks of the Ring. Lord Lovat last spring entertained all the members of the Clan Fraser in the great hall of Beaufort Castle and they presented him with a. silver casket in recognition of the fame he had brought the clan during the war. At the present time Lord Lovaf is in South Africa, where he has acquired a large tract of farming land, which he is colonising from his own estate in Scotland. He was much missed at the Highland gatherings, which took place last autumn, which have done sp much to keep alive the old feudal feeling. Time was when these gatherings were more or less local in their interest, and it was difficult for any Southerner to obtain admission to the festivities connected with. them. Now, however, the Braemar gathering, the Northern meeting at Inverness and the Argyleehire gathering bring to each district crowds of visitors. Every gathering has its characteristic feature. That at Oban, which may be said to owe almost its being to the Campbell clan. Headed by the Duke of Argyll, is noted for its musical competitions; that at Inverness, which all the phjeftains of that part of Scotland make a point of attending, is noted for its games, while the Braemar, or royal, gathering has always been noted for the wonderful dancing which has been from time immemorial a Highland • accomplishment. An : interesting point concerning tho clans is their distinctive badges. The Campbells wear the wild myrtle; the Drummonds, who boast of having -the oldest badge, sport the wild thyme; the Frasers wear stuck in their bonnet a piece of yew;, while the Macphepsons, the Mackintoshes, the Macduffs, the Farquharsons and all those attached to the, curiously named parent clan known as the Clan Chabtan have a piece of box as their badge; and the Mackenzies share with the Macleans a sprig of holly, while the Sinclairs have the typical Scots gorse. It will be noticed that there are few flower badges. However, the Fergusons have the foxglove and the Macintyree white heather; the Hose clan, of whom the chjeftain has the curious second title of Baron of Kilravook, wears a sprig of wild rosemary, while the Irqubarts have as badges a gilly-flower. The Stuart tartan, which is, of course, worn by members of the royal family; is always seen in conjunction with the thistle.

. An attempt has been made of late years to revive the famous “war cries" words of-the clans. These in many cases recalled some native mountain or lake connected with the history of the clan. These battle cries are all Gaelic, but curiously enough, tartan, which ■ plays, so great a part m the history of the Highland drere, rs not a Gaelic word, and many date only from the day when was drawn up the -form of oath which, after the rising of ’45, had to be taken by any -Highlander anxious to benefit by the Act of Indemnity. In this each man had to swear "to never use tartan, plaid, or any part of the Highland garb.f Any clans have the right to wear four or five different tartans, of which one, known as the "chief's tartan.” may be worn by only the head of the family and by his heir. •■■ ■