COSTUMES AND MILLINERY

New Zealand Times, Volume LXXIV, Issue 4978, 30 May 1903, Page 4 (Supplement)

COSTUMES AND MILLINERY

The tailor-made gown is the dress above all others most suited to the needs of the moment, and notwithstanding a fc-w changes in cut and shape, there is but little variation in the true tailor-made costume. Many skirts arc cut to flow out straight from the hand at the back, instead of closely fitting the figure, while others are arranged in well pressed pleats, fitted accurately over the hips in front, and made to clear the ground all tho way round. The latest skirt, pleated from a hipyoko, and made with a stole front piece, is admirably suited to the tall, slim girl. Many of the tight-fitting coats have stole fronts with double

cane-frills, and shaped belts at the hack and sides. Tho short pleated sac is also much in evidence, and on this, as on other coats, there is a decided fancy for everything which dingle-dangles. For instance, a crcpe-dc-Chine or daintily embroidered silk scarf, tassellod or tagged at tho ends, is deftiy arranged round tho shoulders and passed under somo side strappings, from which tho ends aro allowed to fall straight down on each side, while silk tassels aro also utilised as trimming. A dainty yet serviceable costume is created from fine cloth in a pretty shade of delft blue, the latest novelty in fashionable colours. Tho skirt lias a shaped flounce, broader at the back and sides than in the front, and this i.s headed with curved strappings or silk, of a darker shade than tho material. Tho Russian blouse-coat _is trimmed down the edges of front with a plain strapping of silk and curved .strappings from shoulder to waist, while tho leg-of-mutton sleeve is decorated iu the same way. A scarf of silk fails from over tho shoulders, and i.s passed through the strapping m front. A oollarlcss lace front accompanies this charming gown. In millinery it matters little what ah ape. of HAT OR TOQUE.

one wears, as long as it is becoming and picturesque. That there is a craze, however, for the largo Toreador shape, and the hussar, with its stiff brim, is evidenced by a peep into the milliners’ shops. There are many- delicate and fragile creations of chiffon and tulle. White, pale green, and mauve are fashionable tints. The Toreador requires very little trimming, merely a largo chan of silk on the left side of front. Some of the hussar shapes or covered in ruchod tulle, and ornamented on one side with a sniff, upstanding aigrette, and paste star or other jewelled brooch or buckle. Another round shape in straw has a twisted silk scarf, tied in loose knots. These knots aro arranged round the crown, and the ends of the scarf aro brought over the brim, slightly towards the hack, and tied in a knot at the top. Tho drooping ends aro finished off with pom-poms. Charming hats are formed out of the plain satin straws, widen are so supple that they- _ boar any amount of twisting and curving. These straws aro to bo had in any colour.

BLOUSES are in as great demand as ever, and they are becoming daily more ornate in character. For evening wear ivory satin, mousseliuc-de-soi. crepe-dc-Chino and soft white silk, elaborately tucked and insortioned with lace and embroider}', are tho materials favoured for tho creation of smart blouses. For wear with spring tailor-made gowns silk blouses show loss elaboration. The season’s delaines, with their dainty bordorings. make the prettiest, of blouses to wear with tho Russian, or open coat. Then, again, there are some simple yet pretty flannels, which make suitable morning blouses or shirts. One stylo of shirt recently seen formed three tucks or.folds on each side of front, the folds being' placed towards tho front, which was plain and oramented with tiny fancy buttons, sot in groups of three on each side. Tho sleeves, tucked to the elbow, were gathered into wristbands, which were fastened with buttons to match those on the front of bodice.

Little coatees in sac or bolero shape, with loose hanging sleeves, are worn for dressy occasions, made of crepe-de-Ghine, spotted net, or laco. For theatre wear these are very striking and pretty. One model seen was In black satin, with a handsome collar of guipure laco and stole ends, while others were of silk, richly embroidered with sequins of gold.,