BUTTER-MAKING

New Zealand Times, Volume LXXI, Issue 4301, 9 March 1901, Page 3 (Supplement)

BUTTER-MAKING

• (By J. A. Kinsell’a, Dairy Commissioner.)

Butter consists chiefly of the fatty substances of milk; water, salt, and a small amount of curd compose the remaining portion.

It is impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast rules to bo followed in buttermaking, as circumstances vary with oli.rustic changes, etc.; though under normal conditions the process is much the same from day to day the world over. It is, therefore, important that the buttermaker should bo possessed of a fair amount of skill and judgment. Jic should further have the practical experience necessary to cope with the many difficulties which crop up from day to day. CLEANLINESS. So much has already been said with reference to cleanliness in all the different stages of the dairy business that it would seem almost needless to mention it, either in dealing with the raw material or with the finished article. But there is evidently still room for vast improvement in this, the most important and essential factor in the production of a fine article of butter. Scientists tell us that there are millions of germs floating in the air and in the water. Some of those are desirable, whilst others are the butter-maker’s greatest enemy. It is therefore important that great care bo exercised to guard against their entrance into the milk, and the development and reproduction of the injurious bacteria. The sources ef the latter are numerous, and it is therefore necessary that everything the milk or cream comes in contact with should be thoroughly washed and sterilised. RIPENING OF THE CREAM.

The ripening of the cream is one of the most essential points in the modern system of butter-making. The flavour of the butter depends largely upon the manner in which the cream is treated and handled during the ripening process, and upon the quality of the starter used. The puiposes of cream-ripening may be summed up as- —(1) To got the best flavour in the butter; (2) to get the most exhaustive churning; (3) to give the butter the best keeping-quality.

The cream should he cooled to a rip-ening-temperature immediately it comes from the separator. ’From 62deg. to 65 deg is found to be a favourable temperature to ripen at. A lower temperature and slower ripening gives a better body to the butter, but if the cream is held at a low point for a long time it is subject to contaminating influences, this meaning deterioration in flavour. It is here that tho utility of a first-class starter comes in, for by its means wo can ripen the cream in a comparatively short time at a fairly low temperature. If you have a pure-flavoured starter made from a good culture, tho flavour of the starter is sure to predominate in the resulting butter.

The amount of starter used will vary according to the length of time the cream is to bo ripened, and the condition of the cream at the time the starter is added. Thin cream will ripen faster than thick cream. In ordinary factorywork in summer 2} per cent is found about the right amount of starter. Under normal conditions about 5 per cent gives good results. When the cream has developed sufficient acid, which will be noticed by first signs of thickening and a slight lactic-acid taste, it should at once be gradually chilled to a churningtemperature, not higher than 50deg. The cream should be held at the low temperature overnight, or until the fats have become solidified, and sufficient acid has been developed for churning. In the case of fast-ripening cream becoming over-ripe, I would recommend churning immediately it has had sufficient time to allow the fats to become solidified, six or seven hours being enough for this purpose. When the cream is sufficiently ripened for churning it should have a smooth, thick, glossy appearance, somewhat of the consistency of white-lead paint. It should possess a rather mild acid taste and smell, and should have a full cream flavour. Groat care should be exericsed not to over ripen the cream. I think a good deal of our butter is injured through too much acid being developed in the cream, both with and without the iise of a starter. When too much acid is developed the casein becomes coagulated, and in the churning process is broken into small particles, which become incorporated in the butter in the form of white specks. The butter-maker should aim to ripen the cream so as to have it uniform from day to day, at the same time : allowing only a sufficient amount of aciu to develop to secure exhaustive churning, and to assist in giving the butter a better keeping-quality. The cream should receive an occasional stirring during the ripening process, in order to secure uniform ripening. The cream-vat should be covered with a white canvas cover to prevent contamiantion of the cream from outside influences. . THE ALKALINE TEST.

For those who are not able to judge when the cream is sufficiently ripe for churning the alkaline test serves, as a fairly accurate means of determining the degree of acidity. I claim, however, that every butter-maker should be a practical and experienced juage of the cream he handles each day. I maintain also that there is no tost more reliable under all conditions in ordinary foctory-work than that provided by the well-trained nose and experienced judgment of an experienced butter-maker. My own experience with the alkaline test is that it is not always reliable. Where tne solution was received fresh, very 'good results were obtained, but it is liable to lose its strength, and for those who wish to introduce the test I xvould recomend the tablets in preference. The apparatus for applying the alkaline test consists of a 100 c.c. glass cylinder, a 17.6 c.c. Babcock pipette measure, and an ordinary white china or stone cup. The test is, briefly,' made as follows: Place five tablets in the glass cylinder, then fill it with clean xvater to the 97 mark. When the tablets are all dissolved, the cream to bo tested should be thoroughly stirred and 17.6 c.c. measured into the cup, the pipette being then rinsed with xvater and that added ■to the cream. Then pour the solution slowly from the cylinder into-the cream, stirring constantly until a distinct pink colour becomes permanent. Each cubic centimeter of the solution used to bring out this colour will represent 0.01 per cent, of acid in the cream. Note that for every 6 per cent, increase of butter fat in the cream there should be a decrease of at least 0.03 or 1 per cent, in, the develonment of acid. CHURNING. ■ The object of churning is to reduce the cream from a solution to a solid. Before running the cream into the churn it should be thoroughly stirred, in order to secure as great a uniformity as possible throughout the whole lot. If this matter is not attended to, when there is more than one churning in the vat yon are liable to have considerably more acid in the first churning, owing to the bottom cream being thinner, for , the mere milk in the cream the greater the development of acid. Cream, of average -hickness can be churned at a lower temperature than thin cream. In the process of- churning, the temperature, the amount of acidity, and the thickness or richness of the cream should be such as to have the 'butter granules form in thir-ty-five to fifty minutes.

SIZE OF THE GRANULES. . The smaller the granules at the time the churn is stopped and the colder the water used for washing, the more moisture will be containued in the butter without appearing in the form of free moisture. The granules being firm, the surface-moisture escapes with very little working, this resulting in a butter apparently dry on the trier, yet containing a larger amount of moisture than butter churned in large Jumps and afterwards overworked and squeezed in order to get rid ef the moisture in the largo granules. In other words, low temperature with fine granules means an equal distribution of moisture through the whole mass. I recommend controlling tho process so that the granules form as near as possible between tho size of a large clover-seed and that of a wheatkernel* TEMPERATURE FOB CHURNING.

If the churning-temperature is too high deterioration will be caused in the body and texture of the butter, as the fat globules have a tendency to become soft and oily. If, on the other hand, the temperature is too low the granules will form in round, shot-like grains, and the friction of the whole mass will cause the texture to be injured. The most desirable churning-temperature under ordinary circumstances is 45deg to uOdeg. in summer, and 50deg. to 56deg. in winter. It may be said that there is no fixed temperature for churning, and that is true to a certain extent. The t (above are, however, given as the temperatures from which the best results have been obtained under varied conditions.

The period of lactation, tho nature of the food eaten by the cows, and tho season of tho year are conditions all of which , affect the melting-point of the butter. When the cows are well advanced in the period of lactation the butter globules are smaller and the melt-ing-point is higher. The churning-tem-perature should then bo a little higher. Generally speaking, the lower tho temperature (provided the butter is secured in a reasonable time) the better will be the resulting butter. A low temperature expels the butter-milk from the granules, and allows the moisture from the washing-water to escape much more readily. If the cream is churned at too high a temperature there will be a great loss of fat in the butter-milk, besides which, as already stated, the butter will be soft and thfe body injured. ' These faults cannot be remedied by freezing, the butter after it is made. The best churn may be said to be an entirely hollow' box or trunk in which the particles of butter are formed by concussion of the cream against the sides. With churns in which, the cream is agitated by means of beaters, paddles, or stirring apparatus of any kind, the texture of the butter is always injured. Difficulty often arises in getting the butter to come. Particularly is this tho cas-e in th§, winter months, when, as a rule, the cows are well advanced in lactation, and are, often fed on dryer food, which tends to make the but ter-fat harder. Cream of this sort, if improperly ripeneu and churned at a low*temperature, will, as a rule, cause trouble. The difficulty may bo overcome by the addition of a little pure water of a temperature of 85deg. The addition of a. little dry salt to the cream will also assist. These points are mentioned for the guidance of the ter-maker when in a tight corner. I would, however, recommend having the cream properly ripened and churned at a proper temperature. These troubles will then not require to be doctored after the cream is in the churn. When the granules are forming, water should bo added, at a few degress lower than the temperature of the cream. This may be in the form of a weak brine, which will assist in .forming the granules. When it is not desirable to have tho butter-milk salty, pure water only should be added. I would, however, recommend tho practice of sifting pure dry salt over the surface of the butter just as the last of the butter-milk is running off, and immediately rinsing the whole mass down by running water over it with a hose until the water begins to run clear. This method; will assist in forcing out the butter milk, and tend to . firm the granules. WASHING THE BUTTER.

Pure water is essential in the manufacture of butter. When it is borne in mind that there is 12 to 15 per cent.' of water in butter, it is clear that if the water used for washing contains bad germs, and has an undesirable flavour,, it is certain to have an injurious effect on the flavour of the butter. Even should the germs' not develop and cause putrefaction, the mere presence of the water in the butter would cause it to have a bad flavour. At factories where the water is not good, all water used for washing the butter should be passed though a filter. A filter for factory use should bo so constructed as to allow easy access for cleaning. There are now on the market filters which work wonders' in purifying and reducing the number of gerxnte in bad water, and which can be installed in any factory at a reasonable cost. : Water is applied for the purpose of washing the butter-milk from the granules, and to assist in obtaining a firmer body. The latter condition means that the moisture -can be more readily expelled when the butter is placed on the worker. A quantity of water—about one-third'more fihan the amount of but-ter-milk drawn off—may be added at a temperature of 4odeg. to 52deg., according to the season. The churn should then receive a few quick revolutions' to separate the grannies. When tne water is at a temperature below 50deg., and the granules have formed tne proper size, two washings are sufficient to xvash all butter-milk from the granules. The time required to ran the water on and off, and the whirling process, allows plenty of time for the granules to become chilled to nearly the temperature of the water. If a weak brine is used’ xvhoii the last of the butter-milk is draxyn off. as previously mentioned, and the temperature of the water is several degress below churning-point, one water__ will leave the butter in a firm, dry condition. One water at a temperature of 45dog. is more effective than three waters at a temperature of 58deg. TALLOWY FLAVOUR.

Every attention should, be paid to drawing the water ofi the butter almost immediately. In no case—no matter what temperature the water may be—should it remain on the butter longer than two or three minutes. If the butter is allowed to soak in tne water for any length of time the latter is sure to take away from it that full flavour so characteristic of fresh-churned butter. I have known instances where the butter was allowed to soak for four hours, and when the water was drawn off, and before the addition of salt, the butter was almost as tasteless as paraffin-wax. _ A great deal of butter is partly spoiled through being thus treated. What are known as tallowy or flat flavours can, in most instances, be traced to allowing the butter to remain in the water too lone. SALT. Good, pure salt is one of the most imEortant things in butter-making. Every ictory-manager who is responsible- for the quality of the butter or cheese he makes should make it his business to see that nothing but the very best brand of pure salt is procured. Having secured a good salt, it should be stored in a clean, dry place, where there will be no danger of it absorbing bad odours, such as from cylinder-oil, tar-paper, fish-oil, etc. bait should never be stored with mouldy, dir-

ty, second-hand butter-boxes, or in the mouldy, damp curing-room of a cheesefactory. Every factory-manager should carefully examine the salt from time to time for traces of bad odours, •which are, as a rule, due to contamination of some sort. SALTING AND WORKING. After the butter has drained for fifteen or twenty minutes it should be taken from the churn with large butterspades, or a neat, thin wooden shovel, and conveyed to the worker on wooden, trays, or by a. suitable truck on wheels. When convenient cr at all practicable it should be kept in the granular form and the salt evenly distributed among the granules, or as uniformly through the ' 'hole mass as possible. lam aware this means extra labour in a large factory, but it is necessary to get an even distribution of the salt to avoid streakiness and protect the texture of the butter from overworking. The butter should receive a fair amount of working the first time, and be laid away in a cool room at a temperature of4sdeg.to oOdeg until the following morning, or until the salt is dissolved. At the second working great care should be used to guard against overworking, greasing, and spoiling the grain, the working being merely enougn to expel any excess of moisture and to thoroughly mix the salt. The butter may be salted in the churn to advantage. In following this method about a quarter cf an ounce of salt extra per pound of butter should ibo added to allow for the extra amount of moisture in the churn. Distribute a portion of the salt evenly over the granules, then give the churn a quarter-turn and add another portion, finally adding the remainder. After giving the chum another turn it may bo run a few times, if the temperature is fairly low, this method will incorporate the salt and assist in expelling the moisture from the granules, which means less working, good body and texture, and a uniform colour. Butter should never, after being held at a low temperature overnight, be reworked when too firm. The body and texture cf a lot of butter is spoiled in this way. From 48deg. to 50deg. is a firm butter for reworking. PACKING AND FINISHING’ Butter for export should be packed in neat, attractive boxes, lined with two ply of parchment paper of good quality. To prevent mould, or any odours being absorbed from defective paper, soaking the paper in strong brine for twelve hours, or for a few hours in a 10-per-cent solution of formalin, will be found a good plan. In packing for .export, half a pound extra of butter should be added to each 561'b. box, to allow for shrinkage With 1121 b barrels or kegs 11b extra should be allowed. The butter should be put into the, boxes in rather small pieces, and packed well into the comers and against the sides, so as not to leave any space for the circulation of the air between the butter and the box. Every care should be exercised to cause as little friction of the butter against the sides of the box as possible. When the boxes are the proper size a fine, bright wire may be used with advantage to cut the butter off on a level with the top of the box. When, this cannot be done a flat piece of wood made for the purpose may be used to cut the butter off in one action, thus' avoiding cutting and rubbing the, butter, with a pat, which spoils the grain and gives tne butter a greasy appearance bn tbe surface. Tho boxes should be kept neat and clean. In many instances, the boxes arrive at the grading-stores in a filthy condition. In cases where the butter must be shipped in dirty railway-trucks, straw or sawdust should be put under the hexes. In Canada the, butter-boxes are nearly all covered with’cheap, coarse linen sacks. These are pulled- over the box, and drawn together and tied with a strong cord.'The cord is placed in the sack so as to pucker the sack over the edges, l and when tied tight it leaves the brand exposed on one end of the box. PARAFFIN-BOXES. The best package for butter is one that is neat, strong, light, and: tight. Tinlined or tin packages are objectionable, because of the action of the salt on - the ■ tin. The ordinary butter-box is far from perfect, although the wood used for making New Zealand boxes is tne best I have seen in any country for the They all leak and let the air in, besides which there is nothing but paper to prevent the wood flavour being imparted to the butter. All wooden packages possess more or less the characteristic flavour of the wood, and to prevent the butter acquiring that flavour cr taste, as it is impossible to entirely remove same before the butter is packed, the boxes should be lined or coated with paraffin wax. Paraffin may he described as an inert substance, and will not enter into combination with anything in the butter, or hare any effect on the flavour.- In examining butter that had been stored for a length of time in this colony, I found that, be- ■ sides having a slightly woody taste on the outside, it was bleached out or pale in colour and stale in flavour where the air got in through the owners mid on the top, while in the centre of the' mass it had retained its flavour much better. _ Canadian butter-boxes are, aqvetailed at the corners, and coated inside ! with, paraffin wax. The process is a simple one, and can (be done at a, small cost, when performed in conjunction with the manufacture of the boxes. The dlcvretailing is done by machinery, and the wax coating is put on by passing the small boards between, a system of steamheated steel rollers. By this means a very thin coating is spread over the wood. Tho' hex is then driven together, and the corners are painted with a sma.l quantity of hot wax by means of a brush. When the boxes are dovetailed and lined with wax, with a thin, layer of salt paste on top of the butter, and the covers, securely nailed on——besides having ail absolutely odourless. package, you have practically an airtight one, _ The question may be asked 1 . Will it pay to go to the extra cost of dovetailing and paraffin-lining all our 'butter-boxes? I have no hesitation in saying that it will. When-it is known, that the woody-nayour trouble has been overcome in other countries by adopting this system we are not in any way experimenting. If we wish to compete in the British market wi-n other countries we must not onlv keep on improving the quality of our nutter, but we must aim to ship it in the best and most attractive package that can be procured. : ' " TWENTY “DONTS” IN BUTTER- . MAKING. 1. Don’t prepare a starter where the air is impure in a haphazard manner. 2. Don’t use a starter at all if you are not familiar with -the method of preparing a first-clasS one. 3. Don’t use too much starter. 4. Don’t use a bad-flavcured starter—much better te rm it down the drain. 5. Don’t forget that the flavour of the culture used in preparing the starter wul largely determine the flavour of the startle. Don’t forget that if a first-class starter is added to the cream its flavour is sure to predominate in. tho butter. 7. Don’t forget that everything used in preparing cultures and starters. should be thoroughly washed and sterilised. 8. Don’t wash your cream-vats, coolers, pails, etc., with a greasy cloth. Better to have a hair or corn brush, and keep it well sterilised. . - , 0.-Don’t dry your milk utensils with a cloth. After scalding, put them in a position to drain, and expose them to the sun as much as possible.

10. Don’t take the temperature of th« j cream with your finger, and say you are i churning at 50deg. when the cream is 58deg. or GOdeg. , 11. Don’t churn sweet cream at a temperature of GOdeg. and leave 2 to 2J per cent, of fat in the butter-milk. 12. Don’t churn cream at different stages of ripeness mixed together. You are sure to have butter of different qualities, and a big loss in the butter-milk. 13. Don’t use filthy or bad-flavcured water for washing your butter. Better to pass the water through a filter. 14 Dou’t allow fishy flavoured oil to run down the suction-pipe from the pump into the water, and then say, ‘lt cant be possible my butter is stale or off flavour.’’ ' ; . . ' 15. Don’t let the butter soak in the water half a day, and then wonder at its being reported on as tallowy or flat in flavour. - . , 16. Don’t wash your butter at a hjgh temperature, and then spoil the 1 grain by endeavouring to get the moisture out (by mopping it over with a cloth. 17. Don’t get the butter too firm before the second working, and then spoil the texture by overworking to get the colour straight. ■ . , 18. Don’t try to work twice tbe amount cf butter on your worker than it is supposed tc do at a time. . 19. Don’t use your framing-power on the wrong end of the business by chum-: ing and washing at high temperatures, and then trying to cure tho evil by afterwards freezing tho butter. ■_ 20. Dou’t rest satisfied until you have gained a reputation for keeping your factory clean and for making a first-class article of butter.