THE LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Times, Volume LXVII, Issue 3442, 25 May 1898, Page 2 (Supplement)

THE LADIES' COLUMN.

CONCERNING GOWNS fiND OTHER MATTERS. There is no end to the dainty trifles spread enticingly upon the shop-counters. Airy little nothings tossed up out of gauze bdbd ribbon, and some brilliant buckle of passementerie, they are delightful to look at and possess, were it not that they are by no means cheap. But it is wonderful how easy it is to make these collarettes or fichus. A pretty neckband is made of spotted muslin draped in slightly full puffs round a plain band, and caught down to the lining by straps of bright passementerie. A little frill at the back makes a sotting for the face. Fichus are the most graceful of all throat draperies, and, apparently, it one may judge from those we now and then see in the streets, the most apt to bo spoilt in the putting on. To begin with, only a slim figure should wear them, and they are not suitable for street wear at all. When a lace fichu is seen over a brown tweed frock on a short stout girl, it is a melancholy sight. A pretty cream chiffon fichu, with full frills, is a charming finish to a low black silk bodice, especially if a diamond brooch catches the folds at the back, and the ends are tied in a soft bow in front, among the loops of which some violets or crimscn roses nestle. This would be an ideal garniture, lor a stately matron, and she should add to the effect by twisting among the loops of her hair, done high on the top of her head, a tiny chiffon scarf, secured by a diamond buckle or brooch. A fairhaired lady the other evening wore an aigrette, consisting of a small black feather fastened in by a diamond buckle to the side of her hair, the feather rising some distance above. The effect was charming.

A most graceful fichu is made of not. It is shaped something like a deep pointed yoke, with double frills falling from it and full frills encircling the throat. The yoke part is shirred, and narrow lines of velvet orbebu ribbon are run from the neck to the frills, which are all edged with double rows of the velvet or ribbon. A full rosette of the ribbon finishes off the point in front, and it fastens behind beneath similar rosettes.

X saw described a good idea to utilize an oriental crepe shawl. Nearly everyone possesses among her treasures one of these heirlooms, worn maybe, at a wedding, long-ago. And the owner unfolds it annually to search for traces of the corrupting moth. She shakes it out, and wonders if the fashion will ever revive ogain, and she will be able to display its silken loveliness to admiring eyes. Well, here is an opportunity of adapting it to the present fashion, if she does not shrink from cutting out the centre of the shawl. It is then fitted round the waist to allow the corners to form points in front, at the side, and at the back. The shawl may bs heavily silk-fringed, and it so the curves fall with a nervous clinging grace indescribable, and do not demand a single dart on the hips. Crepe of a like tone forms the pouching bodice, and cream satin the underskirt.

The high Spanish comb is once more the mode, and its use is said to bide a multitude of coiffure sins. It is to be got in Wellington in a variety of styles, but I have not yet seen what are said to be the very prettiest, those with a light spray or trellis-work of diamonds across the centre. Whole sets of combs can be bought here. They consist of the high back comb, the small side ones, and, what will prove a heart-felt blessing to those who struggle with rebellious locks that will hang over their collars, a little tortoiseshell clasp to hold up the refractory tresses. Long ago, I saw, the Parisian dames were fastening up their little curls at the nape of the neck with tiny jewelled brooches, I say curls, advisedly, for French-women never allow themselves to be seen in society with unkempt locks. •

There are rumours afloat that next season the hair is to be worn low down, but as yet it is still dressed high and rather compactly.

While counterpanes are not much used nowadays, a pretty bed-spread being sub stituted, with another blanket or the eider down underneath. Those spreads can be made quite a charming feature of a bedroom, and should harmonize in colour, of course, with the prevailing tone of the room. Almost any material can be utilized, silk, chintz, cretonne, sateen, or linen. An inexpensive and effective one is made from a partly-worn linen, or fine muslin, sheet dipped in saffron-tea, or strong, clear coffee. Stitch a false hem around it with red cotton or sillt floss, or it would be nicer if worked in cross or chain-stitch by hand. Stitch 2-inoh-wide strips of turkey-red twill, or bright eretoone, down the spread at intervals, and u band all around, an inch inside tbehem. The edge can be finished with furniture lace, if desired. Or, to make it more elaborate, fringe out the linen, and make a knotted heading above the fringe. Work two rows of drawn-work along the edge, and ran a satin ribbon through, tying it

in neat bows at the corners. The centre can be embroidered with sprays of flowers in white or coloured linen thread to match the ribbon.

Bat a very pretty bed-spread can be made out of wbat I believe is called crash—the coarse kitchen towelling. In it the threads are very easily drawn, and the material itself is strong and washes perfectly. In mine, I drew threads out up and down to form squares, and with soft knitting cotton, I did a little simple drawn-thread work along these lines. In the centre of the squares I did a spray of flowers in applique. I wanted rose-colour, and got the right tint in gingham, which, of course, washes well. I cut out the size of the square on the gingham, stamped tbs pattern on it, tacked it on the linen, and button-holed the edge of leaves and flowers, cutting away tho spare gingham when that was done. Then a few fancy stitches can be put in for centres, markings, or stems, and the square is finished except to iron it carefully at the back. All the buttonholing and the embroidery can be done with the knitting cotton. You will be surprised to find how quickly your work progresses. Furniture lace should be sewn round the edge of this bed-spread, and it should be lined with the cotton material used for tho appliquA

Tucked pillow-shams are rather novel, and, if carefully done, very effective. All shams should be made with pieces at the back, so that the pillow sits neatly in it, and they should also be made roomy. There should be no touch of colour about these, but all should be daintily white and deftly sewn, and the nightdress bag should match the pillow-shams. Some young brides begin their married life with much store of sewn work, one I knew even going the length of hemstitching her table-napkins and linen sheets. If she had known how rapidly these wear at the edges in unskilful washer ladies’ bands, she would uot have hastened the woeful day. For a fine table-uapkin, if Angelina is anxious to put her own work into it, there is nothing so pretty as a little narrow horn done with the hand, and a handsome initial letter, not in the middle, but in one corner.

I saw some very charming pin-cushions in a shop window lately. They were covered with a chess-board pattern of narrow contrasting ribbons, twisted over and under each other as the children work their kindergarten mats. The corners were finished with velvet, laid across, and the cushion was lined with silk and edged with oord.

The small boxes in which honey is sold can be transformed into most excellent pin-cushions. The square bag to fit inside must bo filled with bran or sawdust and made large enough to rise above the

wooden sides. Cover the top, after the bug is laid in the box, with velvet or brocade, glueing the edges on to the wooden sides. Bo the same to the bottom, using strong sateen or cloth. A flat strip of bright embroidery should be placed tightly round, and the whole finished with cord or gold braid.

I saw some capital hints lately for making a bedroom artistic snd oozy without spending much money in the process. The bed "/as a plain iron one, but the ingenious owner enamelled it white and made a large bed-spread of pale blue cretonne with deep frills on either side which touch the ground, doing away with the need for a vallance. Frilled buttermuslin is used for the windows, draped back with butterfly-bows of yellow silk. An ordinary deck-chair, with the aid of white enamel paint, and gold and brown striped cloth, has been transformed into a delightful lounge, and a very common washstand and chest of drawers were made things of beauty and joy for a considerable time by giving each article three coats of white enamel, and replacing the knobs on the drawers by pretty brass handles. A white shelf with a cretonne curtain hides a row of pegs for dresses, and has a little fancy railing round, within which can stand a bright bowl or vase. A square of plain chestnut-brown carpet is put on the floor, and all the woodwork is painted cream colour.

I am giving this week a few recipes for sweets. At almost every afternoon tea little dishes of home-made dainties are banded round, or stand upon little tables, and they are generally highly appreciated. French Jellies are made thus :—Soak loz. of gelatine in i pint of cold water all night. Place it on the fire and stir till it boils. Bet it boil 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Add one teaspoonful of citric acid, and, just before dishing, X teaspoonful of essence of lemon or essence of vanilla. Pour into well-buttered tins, and, when cold, out into squares and roll in powdered sugar. Half can be coloured pink with cochineal, before being poured out.

For a thoroughly good recipe for toffee, the following cannot be excelled. It cun be varied by adding blanched almonds a little while before pouring out. Some people think it improved if the almonds brown a little. The method is simplicity itself: —Put into a saucepan 11b of sugar, 6ozs of butter and two tablespoonaful of golden syrup. Mix thoroughly, and let it boil without stirring until a little hardens when dropped into cold water.

Chocolate creams are rather troublesome to make, but the cream can be used, with the addition of cocoanut, for cocoanut ice, or for frosting a cake. Boil two cups of icing sugar and half a cup of milk five minutes, and stir till thick, adding a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon before it thickens. Roll into small balls, dip each into molted chocolate with a fork, and drop on greased paper to dry. The unsweetened raw cbooolate is the best, and can easily be melted by cutting it down into a jelly-can, which should then bo placed into a saucepan of boiling water.

Dates, stoned and the hole filled up with the cream, are exceedingly good, Prunes and blanched walnuts can also bo treated in the same way. To make sugar-candy, two cups of sugar, one of water and one tablespoonful of vinegar should be boiled half an hour without stirring. When a little in water snaps, pour the sugar-candy into a well-buttered dish and mark in squares or form into twists like barley sugar.

The following directions, taken from a Home paper, are worth noting. “ Mothers who are careful of other things are very often neglectful of their little girls’ hair. Good overlooking in their childhood days is what gives so many young women the glory of a fine head of hair. It is most unwise to trust the daily combing to an impatient, often hurried, nurse. Hasty combing breaks the hair, making it rough and uneven. When it becomes matted, brash out as much of the tangles as possible, and with the fingers carefully separate the hair into strands before using the comb. It is a mistake to think that girls’ hair should be cut often in order to make it grow thick. It makes the hair coarser, but not thicker. Weak thin hair is a sign of imperfect health, and its existence should set a mother to a careful examination of her growing girl. She is not getting proper food, is not sleeping enough, or in some other way her normal vitality is not being kept up. It is also a mistake to wash the hair too often, as it makes it dry and brittle. As much as possible let the hair of growing children ho uncovered and hang loosely. It is said that the hair of the Saxon peasant brings the highest market price, and this alwayshangs loosely from their heads, or in loose braids, from babyhood. Perspiration is bad for the hair, and for this reason light hats ought to be worn by the children in warm weather. One of the best cleansers and strengthoners for thin hair with a tendency to fall out is rosemary tea. Pour hot water over the leaves and let them boil a few minutes before straining. Apply to the roots of the hair with a brush.