THE LADIES’ COLUMN.

New Zealand Times, Volume LXVII, Issue 3436, 18 May 1898, Page 2 (Supplement)

THE LADIES’ COLUMN.

CONCERNING GOWNS AND OTHER MATTERS,

. There is no doubt we are veering back again to trimmed skirts, and the way these trimmings are added depends to a great extent on the length and breadth of the wearer. The tall woman can trim her skirt horizontally, but her shorter and stouter sister must arrange her trimmings to appear to eke out her inches.

Ribbon velvet of a darker shade or black is much employed for trimming skirts. This is very easily manipulated by the home dressmaker, and looks most effective on the fashionable cashmere. This latter material is made of suob lovely colours and with such a silky finish that it is most desirable.

Black velvet used to be the livery of the elderly dame. To-day even girls wear it, especially for dinner,dresses. Combined with any of the many gauzy fabrics now worn, it makes a most becoming costume. A grey velvet with soft frills ot yellowish lace or chiffon is charming, and heliotrope is most successful embroidered with steel and pearl beads. Ribbon, by the way, is much used for flouncing. It is easy to work wilh, and certainly keeps crisp a long time. Narrow satin ribbon has been in use for a long time, and is put on either straight, gathered, frilled or rbched.

I saw a suggestion in a late magazine that might be useful for those who like, but are not able to afford, variety. The trained skirt was of si|k, opening at one side over a panel of embroidery. This panel was made to take ont, so that another could be substituted. It was mounted on a back-ground, and secured to the skirt by buttons and tabs under the edge of the silk. The body was a chiffon blouse out low with rucked sleeves frilled at the tcp. Over this was a silk bolero cut low with revers. The front of the bolero was slightly full, and gathered into a diamond ornament on the breast. Any glittering trimmiug can decorate this

little garment, which, of course, can be worn over a variety of blouses.

There is something particularly smart about the lace cravat that gives so dainty a finish to an afternoon costume. Any pieces of real lace can be,taken out of their lavender and utilized in this way, the bow being made of net, tulle, muslin, or chiffon. A real old lace scarf is a priceless treasure nowadays, and may be worn twisted twice round the throat and tied in a big bow under the chin. Many of the so called cravats are simply a spreading bow with two frills of lace under the muslin, and a piece of the muslin or lace drawn tightly across the middle. Others have falling lace ends, the lace used, if not real, being of the oob-webby kind that falls so softly. It is said that the fringed scarf from the bust or from the nook, atd fringed ends to the silk sash, are to re: appear again.

Most dainty-looking and becoming to most faces are the huge bows of tulle, chiffon, and other airy fabrics which Parjsiennes have affected so much of late. They may be made as full as possible, and with a great amount to wrap round the throat, so that they really make a comfortable substitute for a boa. A pretty one may be made of the finest India muslin with a tiuy raised dot; the ends, like the loops of the bow, are doubled, thus obviating any necessity for a lace edging or hem.

A charming idea for bridesmaids’ gowns was described in a recent London paper. They were to be symphonies in grey and gold. Silver-grey cashmere was the material used for Jskirt and jacket-bodice, lined with glacd silk of butter-colour. The soft vest, drawn into the waist and with frills across, is of grey silk muslin. A short basque is at the back of the bodice, but is formed into square tabs over the hips. Wide revers with tiny frills of silk muslin fall on the shoulders, and full frills of ivory lace fall between revers and vest. A hat of dark-grey felt with big bows of grey velvet and grey plumes should be worn with this gown, and to be very smart and complete, grey,suede gloves and shoes, and silk stockings. A sash of grey silk muslin with wide frilled ends falls to the foot of the skirt, and a large bouquet of daffodils tied with yellow velvet ribbon is the only touch of vivid colour permitted, The effect of this delicate colour-harmony clustered about the creamy whiteness of the central figure would be most artistic, and a delightful change from tho ordinary blue, pink, or white wedding.

There is a now sort of fancy-work in vogue at Home called broderie perlc. It only looks well on rich satin or silk, and could be applied very successfully to the decoration of evening gowns. I noticed in the account of the first London drawing room of the season that the white satin of one lady who was presented was exquisitely embroidered in pearl and silver, the work being done entirely by herself. But this broderie perle can be applied to sachets, reticules, table-centres and bookcovers, any of which, wrought in this style, would form an exquisite wedding gift, A pattern may be stamped on the satin, or a design drawn. The work is done in coarse flannel silk, and a largeeyed needle used, so that the silk will not fray or gather in a lump. Any stitches may be used, but ordinary stem-chain and button-hole stitch areoftenest applied. The great feature of this work is the introduction of small pearls into the design. These should be used freely, as centres of flowers, ribs for conventional leaves, or in any other place fancy may suggest. |sat it is important they should be sewn down with fine cotton on well-waxed thread, for silK is apt to bo out with the edge of the pearl. Eoman pearls are the best to use, but a design could be made to look very well with the small ordinary ones, and most charming effects could be obtained by working with crystal or steel beads on satiu. The silk stitches must be bold and simple to produce a good result.

After your work is dope lay it face downwards on a linen cloth, and with your finger smear a very little paste on the back of your stitches, taking care not to touch the satin. This secures the threads, so that, if one bead goes, the rest do not follow. Imagine a ladies' waiting room at a railway station, where a weary dishevelled

wordan cao get not only hot watei - to refresh herself With, basket-chairs to lounge in, large mirrors in which she can scan her appearance from top to toe, but, for a trifle, eau-de-cologpe; hair and hat pihs, ancl even curling-irons. The teaefidipage is of dainty WedgeWoodj add a capital cup of freshly-made tea or coffee can be got for threepence, with cream for another penny. Hot buttered toast or tea-cake is always ready, and, if the passenger requires more substantial sustenance, she can get a plate of cold tongue, roast-beef or bam, with water-cress or cucumber, for sixpence. Besides this, there is ample accommodation for wriiing.

This luxurious resting-place is not in another world. It is at Leeds, the big central station of the Midland Railway Company, and these comforts and changes were suggested, it is said, by a lady who does a great deal of travelling from North to South of England during the year, Mrs Boyd Carpenter the wife of the Bishop of Bipon.

Table decoration is an art nowadays, and all rich materials are pressed into the service, Golden-brown chrysanthemums in tall glass vases, or bowls of nasturtiums, lemon, brown and flame colour on a square of orange velvet, are highly effeo tive. Narrow green and gold ribbocS tied in careless bows and knots here and there between the vases look well. There are some tall, trumpet-shaped glasses now in the shops that are perfect for daffodils or narcissus, but these flowers want no ribbons or silks to heighten their beauty. Their own graceful blue-green leaves are their best foil. But to produce an artistic result, they must be arranged with the utmost lightness, and if possible, only one variety should be useefiu one scheme of decoration. Wall flowers, massed in brown Doulton bowls, make a most fragrant and handsome decoration, and may be set in soft folds of ember or orange silk. For any ordinary occasion, the fine sateens in the shops just now answer very well iflstead of silk.-

There are ever so many delicate dishes that can be prepared from oysters, but they require care. One of the nicest breakfast dishes imaginable is made by bearding the oysters, and wrapping a little slice of streaky bacon round each. A skewer is thrust through the little rolls, until it can hold no more. The skewers with the bacon and oysters on are then laid in a hot fryingpan, and the rolls fried a delicate brown. This should bo served piping hot, and dished up on the skewers. Ofoourse, those who are fortunate enough to possess silver skewers might use them, but little wooden ones answer the purpose equally well. This dish goes by the euphonious names of Angels on Horseback or Pigs in Blankets.

To make Creole oysters, put a layer in a shallow pan, and sprinkle well with crumbs, add bits of butter, salt, pepper, mustard and a little chopped onion. Do this till the dish is full, with the crumbs and butter on the top. Add a little lemon juice, and bake in a hot oven.

Scalloped oysters are prepared in the following way. Put -1- pint ot milk on the fire to boil, with a small piece of butter to prevent its burning. Mix a tablespoonful of flour and a pinch of salt with milk, and add to the boiling milk. Butter a dish and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Put the oysters into the white sauce, pour into the dish, add a sprinkling of cayenne pepper, cover with bread crumbs, and place on the top a few small pieces of butter. Brown in the oven.

For oysters in batter, mix a tablespoon, ful of flour, 1 egg, pepper and salt, and enough milk to make it the consistency of thick cream. Dip the bearded oysters in the mixture, fry pale brown in plenty of bqiling fat,-and drain pn paper. Serve very hot, • Stewed oysters is a favourite dish with many people. Prepare a dozen oysters, reserving their liquor. Place the oysters in a small saucepan with a teacupful of milk and a small piece ot butter. When nearly boiling add a tablespoonful ot flour mixed in the liquor, and a little pepper; stir over the fire until it thickens, but do not let it boil.