NOTES ON FASHION.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXIX, Issue 6689, 25 September 1882, Page 4

NOTES ON FASHION.

(From Hi* Ntvt Zealand Mail.) Spring seems fairly to have set in, if we may judge not ouly by the mild weather but also from the wonderful announcements made by our leading business firms in the city. Never was there a greater choice of materials lhaa there is this season, and some of the prettiest are the least expensive. Nun's veiling bids fair to be the most popuiar ; the thiu woollen fabric, from being soft and uncroshable, lasts long enough to suit the changing fashions. Of the same class of goods are the beiges, summer serges, and new makes of cashmere, or casimer cloth, as it is now termed. But quite the newest idea in spring woollen dresses are the borderiugs. Cashmeres are sold with bands of the same worked in silk in open English embroidery, such as used to be the woik of the day years ago, and, by-the-bye, is quickly gaining Its lost vantage ground. Boon we shall sea our girls discard crewels ami take to white cotton work again. But this is digressing from our dress trimmings. Tdey do not look too showy, from the fact that the silk embroidery is of the same color as the cashmere. Many otbsr stud's have interwoven borderiugs, which look like lace or embroidery, along the selvedge, but they ace rather expensive and would soon look* particular, a point always to be avoided if one’s purse is not very full. Silk and cotton combined have produced a new cheap fabric of so silky an appearance as eadly to be mistaken for spun silk, and at half its price. It is made iu small checks of two colors, such as blue and brown, red and white, and blue and white ; and, indeed, checks are the prevailing style for woollen dresses—even shepherd's plaid, the well-known black and white pattern, finds favor once more. Then come the cotton goods in infinite variety, which are always being improved upon. Certainly nothing can be prettier than the sateens. As a rule the pattarns cover the ground well, but in one class the ground is of a decided color, such as pick, with large scattered b ooms of the same tone, relieved by a very dark red or brown. Then the old China patterns are quaint; fans, plates, cups and saucers scattered about recklessly, and, after all, are not so grotesque as would be imagined from the mere description, providing the objects are small. Some of the newest sateens have printed selvedges for trimming, the lace printed borders with plain grounds being very effective. Ginghams, or, as they are called, zephyrs, will be quite as much -worn as last season, two colois being specially liked, pale blue and a reddish shade called crushed strawberry. They are generally trimmed with thick lace, such as guipure, or cream embroidery. As tb.ese dresses have to be often “ got up,” their beauty consisting principally in their fresh appearance, they should be simply made. I will describe an easy way of making. First, the usual one, or, better still, two gathered flounces round the skirt, with a wide band of open Hamburg or guipure insertion stitched just above each flounce. The ovei dress, easily washed and ironed, is made with an apron that has a sloped front breadth and a gore each side of it sewed 10 a belt in permanent plaits. The sides are edged with trimming to correspond with that on the skirt, and supplied with two sets of tapes to tie it back properly. This being separate from the other portion of the dress, is very convenient. The back drapery is straight, aud consists of a breadth and a half of the gingham sewn together and cut half a yard longer than the underskirt. This is hemmed round, sewn to the belt iu large box plaits, so that it meets the apron front at the sides, aud is draped by one deep looping a quarter of a yard in depth, being taken high on each side, fastened by a button and loop or band of ribbon. In the middle of this drape, and slightly lower down, is another button and loop for draping the centre. When ironed, the fastenings are simply unbuttoned, and, behold, the straight piece instead of troubhsome puffings. The bodice is without lining, has a large Byron collar of embroidery, with belt and cuffs of the same. If the , back of the bodice is lengthened, laid in two separate box plaits, and trimmed across the ends with embroidery, t has a finished effect.

Another pretty style for young g ! rls is the “ Watteau,” for which the flowered sateens are bo admirably suited; but, indeed, any of the bro-caded-looking materials are picturesque made in this form. A short underskirt of plain sateen, say of pink, with narrow kilted flounces to the waist ; over this a panier tunic of deeper tint and flowered pattern ; the edges of the full paniers finished with three tiuy lace-trimmed ruffles of pink ; pointed bi dice opening square on the neck, round which is draped a flowered handkerchief of the deeper color edged with lace, and knotted low on the breast like those seen on the Dresden shepherdesses. Such a costume is:a real picture, yet having the great advantage of being readily made at home by amateur dressmakers.

Still another style I will mention, since I know these hints will prove acceptable in many a home where there are several daughters having the laudable desire to make as charming an appearance as circumstances will possibly permit. A figured Indian silk skirt, perfectly plain, with the exception of the bottom, which has a very full ooquillb ruche six or eight inches deep, the edges pinked or frayed out; panier bodice, finished at the back with a large bow and ends, no puffs or drapery. Sash bows of immense size are very popular. There is no ribbon round the waist, but the how and its ends form part of the fulness at the back of the skirt. Watered ribbon is the favorite. The new mantles are much shorter this season. All are profusely trimmed with chenille, jet, and lace. The capes so general last year appear again with improvements, and a novelty is in the way some are made.to fasten on the left sbonlder with a bow or flower ; the graceful sweep of the citcular as it is draped across the chest imparts a youthful effect unattainable by the more formal arrangement of the old cape. These new devices are just the points that add style to the toilette, so 1 must cot omit mentioning the “ panier fichu,” Many of my readers may have by them scarves of silk or lace, which they can utilise thus: Place the scarf around the neck, allowing it to rest on the shoulders in fulnesi; then gather the two sides to meet down the front, dividing them at the waist and looping thtm back us panics on the hips, finishing off with large loops of moire or satin at the back just below the waist; the effect will be highly satisfactory. Another fashimabls novelty is the Olivette collar, a stiff, upright, rounded collar, highest at the back of the neck, and gradually taperiug down till it almost merges into the trimming of the bodice, which must be cut square. The material is the same as composes the bodice, and the foundation is of buckram with a pliable wire round the edge, which is ornamented with oblong beads strung on wire aud sewn on to the collar. None but long-necked ladiss can wear this collar, aud the buir must be dressed high, or it will be uncomfortable, in the extreme.

New modes of neck adornment are always acceptable. Sometimes one is puzzled to know wbat to wear ; lisse frilliugs are to expensive and fragile that to wear them habitually means a larger outlay than can always be afforded lor so small an item of dress. A good plan is to procure a few yards of really good washing lace about two, iuebes wide, aud pleat it up in suitable lengths ; tack it into the neck of your dresses, and when soiled it can easily be removed, washed, and done up again' for use. Now, to make the Newmaiket cravat f■ oin a fancy bordered handkerchief. Cut the handkerchief across, not quite in the middle, but leaving one half longer than the other ; divide the longer half by cutting it up the centre; pleat each piece in flat pleats aftei having bummed the sides which have no border. Let the border be outside. Put the two pleat d. pieces into a band formed of the other half of the handkerchief, which is folded flat, showing the border, and is worn round the thro it outside the collar of the dress and fastens behind. Mnalin and lace cravats are made in the same way. There is a revival of the very bee uning black velvet tbroatlet, only now it is trimmed on the upper edge with a row of tiny pearl beads, and at the lower with a pearl fringe, thus making an elegant ornament. Eusk