A FEW NOTES.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXV, Issue 6113, 5 November 1880, Page 6

A FEW NOTES.

(BY OUR TRAVELLING REPORTER. A direct run from Wellington to New Plymouth in a smart steamer in fine weather is not to be classed amongst the disagreeables of this life by any means. The coast line is varied and interesting, and as soon as the isolated peak of Egmont shows r.p, a feature of unwearied attraction is presented that seldom fails to chain the attention of the stranger. It is a peculiar mount, grand in its isolation and weird almost in the Angular iuaucuce :t exorcises on beholders. If clouded when hist seen, the imagination is racked by anticipated pourtrayal of the snow-clad pyramid ;if clear, wonderment is excited at the failure of description to convey a correct idea of the reality. Egmont is as often clouded as visible, but when standing in hold relief against a clear sky, there are few objects ia nature more lovely and fascinating. My first view of the mount rested not on itself but on the clouds of vapor surrounding it. It was there, however, as was indicated by the white and black streaks of snow and rock that occasionally were revealed in the cloud rifts. And the seme was rendered the more forcible by surroundings. It was early morning on board a steamer spinning through the water at 12 knots speed. About us was a group of Maoris, the first inetalmeut of the liberated prisoners who, after living in clover in Dunedin for some fourteen months, were, under the merciful dispensation of a paternal Government, returning to their tribes to do as might seem best to them. From all that had been said respecting these men it was generally supposed they were sincerely repentant for their ploughing misdeeds, and were prepared to oast off at once and for ever the thraldom of Ta Whitism. Never, however, was there a more unwarranted sup position. Nothing was farther than repentance from the thoughts of these unsophisticated children of tiie soil. A few interrogatories made this remarkably clear. AVas’nt Te AYhiti a humbug ; Not a bit of it. Would they still follow him 1 That they would, and obey his instructions at all hazards. .They did not care if they were put to hard labor for a term of years. Hanging had no terror for them, nor in the event of a war, the prospect of being wiped out. We want our land, was the plea, and, with a sweep of the arms towards the Waimate Plains, the Government was going to sell their lan 1 there. The laud was not confiscated, never had been confiscated.aud nothing less than the whole of it would satisfy them.

Xq this frame of miuJ they were landed in New Plymouth, and that, too, a gainst their will, for their desire was to be landed at Opunake, eo that they might the sooner make their way to Parihaka, and worship at Te Whiti’s shrine. I was somewhat amused at the decided attitude of Mr. Parris, when the proposition anent Opunake was submitted to him. He was tho first to board the Hinemoa after she had anchored off New Plymouth, and, without stopping to argue the point, ordered all Taranaki natives into the boat—and into the boat they went, to be received at the lauding place by their tribal relatives with that wailing cry of “ Heretnai,” half lamentation, half rejoicing. There was much waving of garments on the part of the women, and to mark the festiveness of the occasion several of the latter wore garlands of green leaves. It struck me at the time that the men would be in custody again ’ere long, that is if the Government maintains its policy of repression in the matter of ploughing and fencing. There are a variety of opinions as to the upshot of the native difficulty, and the authorities I consulted were most contradictory, and yet theyg were men who ought to know ; men who had worried through the long years of terrorism and retarded p ogress that have, placed Taranaki where she is—right in the rear of other provinces. Anyone visiting Taranaki, and critically observant whilst there, can come to no other conclusion on this point. Healthy prospering settlement has been strangled by tbs uncertainty of tenure. The country, indeed, is almost classic ground, for it has been fought over for miles, and the stranger’s ears are regaled with tales innumerable of a battle here and an ambuscade there, of pahs, and redoubts, and blockhouses, of bloody incidents connected therewith, and burnt-out homesteads aad ruined settlers. Imperial mismanagement, and the triumph of local self-reliance. And lam free to confess that the balance of evidence lay on the side of those who regarded the native difficulty as fast drawing to a conclusion. They aver that the Maoris are, in a measure, broken-spirited, recognising, as they do, tho increasing, as well as preponderating influence of the whites. The natives are also anything bat prepared for a fight, for one of ray authorities, a man who ought to be thoroughly well informed, averred that they have little or no ammunition, and not many weapons of any kind. But at the same time, it wag as readily admitted that they could do infinite mischief if hostilities broke out. As usual, the out settlers would be the first to suffer, and the oat settlements have waxed amazingly of late years, extending, as they do, all over the West Coast, and have approached to within a few miles of Parihaka itself, and np to the Waitara, of bloody memories, and through the ■dense bush at the back of the mountain, that ever-present mountain, which every true Taranakian is almost inclined to regard as a tutelar divinity. A native outbreak must involve ruin to hundreds, but then probabilities are much in favor of its being a final one. There is no mistaking the temper of the Taranaki people. Every male capable of bearing arms, would rally to the rescue, and, what is better still, the movement would be voluntary and spontaneous, and as certainly successful as that its cause would be the preservation of “ hearths and homes.” Nothing else, and sufficient too, as the Maoris would find to their cost, for it strikes me that not many prisoners would be taken. There is a quiet, but stern resolve amongst the people disagreeably suggestive of war a entrance, so that they might live in peace afterwards. X must admit that, nathless the arguments of philo-Maoris, my sympathies are entirely with the settlers. Their district, outwardly, is one of the fairest of the many of the colony, and its fertility, that moot point, will I am sure, assert itself in the end. Exceptionally well watered, possessing a truly salubrious climate, it lacks but peaceful opportunity to hud and blossom with an excess of fecundity. But where there is such an element of uncertainty as the possibility of disputed occupation, settlement and persistent skilled cultivation most languish. And the whole of the West Coast from Huranui North to Patea South hag long lain under this ban ; is, in fact, still under it. The ploughing scare of last year had its effects, and, bloodless although its results were, it checked cultivation in some of the out settlements to a degree from which they have nob recovered, nor are likely to until the Te Whiti movement is decided one way or the other. Some of these out-settle-raent clearings in the dense forest were brought under my immediate notice. There were the primitive habitations, the ground covered with unsightly stumps, but neither ploughing nor other evidence of man’s enterprise and industry. Hope, however, is in the ascendent with the settlers, and a general opinion that all will be well if the Government will only persevere with the firm, judicious policy that has been initiated—to impartially arbitrate between Maori and white man. That New Plymouth has languished, as a settlement, is due in a great measure to its isolated situation. It has no certain connection with any other place. Between it and Auckland is interposed that debateable country under the mana of Tawhiao and Ilewi. With tho South there is no sure communication yet, nor will be till the railway connects New Plymouth with the port of Patea, of which more anon. As for its communication by water with other places, the less said about it the better. Passengers either inward or outward may well shrink from the disagreeableness, not to say risk, of pushing through the surf of the coast, whilst the rates for landing and shipping merchandise—los. per ton —are next to prohibitive. And so what between the imperfect land and dangerous and expensive sea carriage, the New Plymouth people may well be excused for turning their attention, with perhaps more fervor than good management, to the construction of harbor works.

I wish. I could pronounce favorably upon the scheme they have in hand, but, to speak without prejudice, I can only regard it as doubtful. I visited the Sugar Loaves, and had Horae conversation v/ith the engineer, Mr. Roes, and whilst admiring the zeal he displayed and confidence in ultimate results, I ■.■/as yet impressed—firstly, that the harbor works will, when completed, not provide the ,-;afe and commodious shelter with which they •>re credited, and, secondly, that .they will not by constructed within—to speak colonially—a 4 ‘ cooey” of the estimated cost. It struck me that the district or town would derive more benefit from the expenditure of the harbor loan, thin it ever would (permanently) from the'harbor works, and should my prognostication prove correct,’thero is a heavy reckoning story for ::ome one. Of course, the scheme first proposed to connect the northern; Sugar Loaves by a causeway, and then run a mole, or breakwater, out from the outer one, v/as too expensive to be entertained. It was,

however, the only one worthy of entertainment, and tailing it the New Plymouth people would, iu my o; iuion, have done bettor by improving and utilising the Waitara Hiver, _ which, already a resort of small vessels, might be readeredcapablc.at moderate expense, of accommodating much larger ones. Once the ciy was the Waitara, and nothing but theV/aitaro, and so a railway was constructed between it and New Plymouth, and now the people have deserted their first simple and natural love, and, like vitiated society, clamor for unsatisfying artificialisra. I was pleased to observe," as indicative of common sense and fearless independence), that New Plymouth opinion is pretty evenly divided upon these points, and that many folks readily admitted that the outlay of money was a tempting consideration. But it this is all, it will be like the roll of the Evangelist—sweet iu the mouth, but bitter to digest. Oa the other hand, there is something to bo said for the New Plymouth people. They have received more than a fair share of vituperation, for only only those who have visited the place, and investigated impartially, can quite understand the position, h’or years past they have been hemmed in, and forced to contend with a variety of adverse influences, chief amongst which was the native difficulty, and next to that peculiar characteristics of soil, and isolation. The difficulty has tended to strangle practical investigation and experiment, and hence the land lies under the ban of ignorance ; the way to turn it to best account has not yet been found out. Still, what may not be hoped of a soil which supports camellia and magnolia trees twenty feet high, and produces root crops of many tons to the acre ? It, however, pleases some writers to systematically slander the place. As nothing good came out of Nazareth, so nothing good can come oat of Taranaki. The people are charged with “ earthhunger,” and are further indicted with a desire for war with the natives, that being (so it is said) their normal condition of prosperity. Thau such ideas, however, nothing can bo more absurd. To the Taranakian war is ruin, for war would involve the destruction of scores of homesteads, furthest removed from the centre of the settlement, and with members so mutilated, what must not the trunk suffer, suffering that.no war expenditure could possibly allay and compensate for. No, peace, and room to expand, are as essential to Taranaki as to other districts, and are what the people most desire. Just now the district is iu a state of transition, but transition of the slowest, and until the railway is constructed right through to Patea it will continue to vegetate, and that is all. People at a distance scarcely comprehend tiie difficulty of, when once in New Plymouth, getting out of it only extends to Waitara one way, and Ngarie the other—Ngarie, I may observe, is some four miles south of Stratford, and it is vulgarly supposed that Mr. Young’s coaches always meet the train there, and, with four horses dashing and prancing, convey travellers to Normanby, and so on. Never was there a treater misconception of ficts. In the first place, the traveller has to reach Ngarie, which, in the present condition of New Plymouth railway rolling stock, is just a shade doubtful as to time. New Plymouth being an out of the way corner has to expend the odds and ends of colonial rolling stock—l believe there are four engines there for all purposes, two of them eight ton affairs, and the others four tons heavier. If the engines were in good order they might suffice for local purposes, but, as it happens, that the larger two are old things, condemned as useless at other places where they have done duty, they wheeze, and pant, and break down with distracting regularity at New Plymouth, and the general manager is driven nearly demented by bis efforts to keep up the traffic—l was amused and amazed at the prevailing state of affairs when I reached Sentry hill, en rente for the south—Sentry Hill is where the railway branches off to Waitara—and there onr train was detained forty minutes, whilst the engine conveyed the AVaitara train to its destination and returned again, the other eagiue being under repairs. This was kept up for over a fortnight. The railway workshop is at Sentry Hill, and whilst we were waiting X was shown over it by Mr. Harris, the general manager, about whose identity I was somewhat in doubt, as he outwardly presented the appearance of a mechanical engineer. Representing as he did the two offices rolled into one, he seemed to be the right man in the right place in these degenerate times of retrenchment. I was shown the broken down engine, and a poor old thing it seemed—about fit to be sold as old iron. As the manager observed, “ the more they repaired it the more they might.” If Taranaki is to be restricted to four engines, I certainly think they ought to be serviceable ones, and herewith urge upon the General Manager of Railways to duly take cognisance of the matter.

Once fairly under way from Sentry-hill, Ngarie is soon reached, the greater part of the way lying through dense bush, and along what is called the Mountain-road, at the “ back ” or on the east side of Mount Egmont. The line rises on this section to an altitude of some twelve hundred feet. The country presents little worthy of note, except evidences of struggling settlement. I was assured there were plenty of clearings further back,” and X saw many bush roads said to lead to them, and also a fair number of people evidently of backwood type. The few small townships we passed wore an air of average bush sprightlxness, and Stratford, the most imposing of them, looked quite business-like. At New Plymouth I was told that if the coach was not running—it seldom did during the winter—the .coach proprietor sent horses, to “pack” passengers and their belongings to Normanby. I rested on this hope, and was most woefully disappointed, only the mailman being in attendance when the train arrived, and it was with much ado I persuaded, him to carry on my light portmanteau, whilst, a t the same time, I made up my mind to walk the distance—some fifteen miles by a road that was worse than atrocious. Luckily, however, I had a travelling companion in Mr. Hursthouse, the district engineer, and he made matters very much more comfortable for me. From Ngarie we got a lift in a ballast lirain to W. G. Basset's contract, three miles further on. The line is linked through this contract, but, as the ballast has to be fetched from Stratford, it will take till the middle of next month to finish it. Messrs. Berry and Newman have - the next contract of 4h miles, and are getting on with the work. Much of the cutting is done, and the bridges, of which there are three, are in a forward state. They hope to finish by the beginning of April—contract date—-but as there is only one ballast engine they are likely to be delayed. If the Government would supply another the work would be hastened by quite six weeks. From the end of Berry and Newman’s contract the line is formed to Normanby, and awaits but the laying of the permanent way. Now, here again, work might be facilitated if the Government, instead of calling for tenders for laying, accepted Berry and Newman’s schedule prices and gave them the laying to do. They have men and material all ready, and would make light and short work of laying the way. The completion of the line to Normanby will be an unmixed blessing to travellers, for there the coach may really be depended upon. It boots not how I reached Normanby from Berry and Newman’s camp. There was a hcrse waiting for Mr. Hursthouse, and I have a dim vision of Mr. Sheal, the surveyor, coming along on horseback, and of his being incontinently and summarily relieved of the animal, and of finding myself upon the back of another, about one degree removed from the Suffolk punch breed ; and how we plunged through mud and jolted over ruts, and finally reached Normanby. I merely relate this for the guidance of travellers ; they must not depend upon coach horses between Ngarie and Normanby. However, I was positively informed that the coach does run with some measure of regularity during the summer months. Before quite leaving Taranaki I must hark back to New Plymouth. Of course I heard something about the famed iron sand, and if only half of what Mr. Smith, late manager of the foundry there, said was true the shareholders of the Smelting Company are worse than insane in not pushing the enterprise a little further. He avers that the sand can bo profitably utilised, and, as I saw railway engine wheels that had been out of the metal from it, I was fain to believe him. It does seem to be a pity to allow smelting work*, erected at a cost of so many thousands, to literally rot and rust away piecemeal. The manager averred that he could produce enough iron for all the public works purposes of the colony,-and much cheaper than importing it, and also that the works might be put in good order again for .£IOOO. JSow, are there no capitalists of the colony enterprising enough to buy out tbo Company and carry on work, and as the Company has Just secured the 5000 acres of land bonus, they could, of course, afford to sell at a very low rate. Having got thp land they owe something to the country. But it would be better sHll if they would pluck up heart of grace, and resume an undertaking that is pregnant with results of colonial importance. I heard of

other minerals besides iron as being indigenou to the district. Copper and traces of tin were said to have been found somewhere about “ the mountain,” and ray ardent friends were full of hopes as to what might eventuate. An in and in bred Taranakiau will believe almost anything in connection with “ Egmont ” excepting the possibility of it ever “exploding’ again. For myself, I see no reason to doubt the existence of a variety of metals .within the precints of a mountain that covers so many square miles of country. Egmont is a glorious, a fascinating mountain, and without it New Plymouth would be a very common-place sort of a town. But with isolated Egmont, beautiful in form and feature, an everlasting hill indeed, towering up behind it New Plymouth must always be interesting, especially as it possesses sui generis attractions. I have visited many parts ia my time, and, until X dropped into New Plymouth the other day, had met with nothing, socially, so suggestive of old England iu the best sense of the term. Comparatively unsophisticated, simple in their habits and tastes, given _to hospitality, not wanting in accomplishments, and certainly untainted by the graver social vices, the people of New Plymouth present a pleasing contrast to those of other places I have been thrown amongst. A tired business man in search of relaxation, may find both to perfection in New Plymouth, providing he can obtain the open sesame to its inner life, and putting away chloral and other abominations of modern social stimulants, can content himself with the plain milk and honey of that which nearly approaches, in characteristics, a quiet English rural town. Certainly one hears a great deal about fighting, but it is iu tones of regret. There is°no vaunting, but a great deal of selfreliance, for, whenever the subject was mentioned in ray hearing, only one sentiment, that of satisfaction, was expressed at the final departure of the Imperial troops. The people have done better since; and if they consulted their best their true interests, would be in no hnrry to inoculate their quiet, slow-going, but happy social state, with the fierce business excitement incidental to hasting to be rich, and its inseparable and detestable social system, m which vice in its worst form, because cloked, and nuebaritableness, prevail. Eet me adduce one instance of genuine and substantial old English, old fashions in New Plymouth—X attended church, and was much edified by the ,-sal and evangelism of the pastor in executing pretty nearly the whole of the Church service. Omitting the anthem, he plunged into the litany, followed it up with the decalogue, and epistle, and gospel, then delivered a good half hour’s discourse, and wound up with something more than a beuediction. He was up to time, too, no one’s dinner need have been delayed after one o’clock.

11. My trip to the West Coast was a _ fleeting one, and not made for special reporting purposes,' but, amongst other things, to take a few passing notes, and comment Cut no better field for the exercise of high ability need be desired by the expert “ special,” and to do the theme justice weeks of time and many columns of space would be expended. The coast constitutes in itself a district of vast importance and taking features. Hill aud dale, plains aud valleys, hush aud open country, succeed each other in charming variety, whilst the coast line is indented with many inlets, of which Opunake, Patea, Wanganui, and Manawatu are the principal. Prom Opunake South to Waitara North there is not one worth mentioning, and hence the straits New Plymouth is reduced to iu the matter of receiving and despatching merchandise. In my last I dwelt unfavorably upon the New Plymouth harbor scheme, aud yet out of it some good has already arisen in testing and regulating the labor market. The pricss of labor quoted by the engineer were rather surprising. Navvies worked hard and skilfully for 6s, per day; fitters were quite satisfied with 75,, and carpenters with from 7s. to Ss. per day. Mr. llees assured me that the men were quite contented with these rates, and worked better, in fact, a great deal, than men he had employed iu other contracts at higher rates. At that time he reckoned upon having 100 men in full and permanent employment within a fortnight. But, indeed, throughout the coast I noticed great relaxation in the tone of the labor market. There was no scarcity of hands, and marked indications of giving way in the price of labor. But one opinion was expressed by employers, and that was that to be in constant request, labor must accept lower remuneration. As we journeyed along the railway from New Plymouth, numerous were the applications made to the District Engineer for “ something to do,” aud by men who held land under some form or another, small freeholders and leaseholders, or under deferred payments. His reply was invariably embodied ia the advice to turn to their land, and take it out in produce, and very good advice too, as applicable to other parts of the colony as to Taranaki, for, it must be admitted, that from north to south consumers are out of all proportion to producers. What particularly claims the attention of the visitor to Taranaki is the number of running streams, all rising in Mount Egmont. Thero are some nine of them between New Plymouth and Waitara, -murmuring, pellucid, and bounded by high banks. They contain plenty of water, and have gravelly bottoms, aud should, be full of trout, but, singular to say, that fish does not seem to take kindly to them. Years ago ova were distributed in several of the streams, but I did not hear of any result, excepting it was supposed that the shags had taken more than a fair share of the young fry. However, another attempt to stock the streams is being made. A quantity of ova, procured from Canterbury, were distributed the other day, and will, it ia hoped, be sufficient to, within a few years, provide ample sport for the disciples of gentle Isaac. What ia called the Moa Block is a stretch of country at the back of the mountain, and through which the railway passes. The settlers upon it comprise a large proportion of Danes and Germans. As showing how badly the military settlers’ system worked at New Plymouth as elsewhere, I may mention that the block of country from Huirangi to Waingongora Station, just outside of New Plymouth, was settled under Dorset’s Military Settlers Act, and out of the original number only about 5 per cent, have held their land; all' the others sold out. Many goodly-sized blocks of country in other parts of the West Coast; were acquired by the purchase, at almost nominal sums, of land granted to military settlers, so termed. The Moa Block abuts on to this military settlement (?), and in it is situated the township of Inglewood, a rising place. What seemed 'exceedingly anomalous to me was the railway and main road, running cheek by jowl almost from New Plymouth to Normanby. For seventeen miles they are not more than a chain apart, the road being connected by bridges, seemingly almost as expensive as those of the railway. Admitting the necessity of a road, it yet, I think, must be admitted that a wider purpose would have been served if road and railway had been a little farther apart, with lateral roads to connect them at the stations. A great deal of the land facing railway and road is in the hands of speculators, who, it struck me, wore not to bo congratulated upon their bargains, much of it being purchased when high prices were ruling. Further back the deferred payment system is in force, and, according to report, with every prospect of good result. Upon the very borders of the debateahle Maori country stand the two townships of Normanby and Hawera, but the other day the scene of Maori aggression. The effects of the then scare have nearly passed away, but a sense of insecurity still lingers, albeit apprehension ia confined more to the' probability of vexatious interference than to that of serious disturbance. Normanby is at the edge of the forest, and it is there that the grand stretch of open pastoral and agricultural land right south to Kangitikei ccmmences. The Waimate Plains form part of this open country. I had not time to visit the particular part of the Plains that is to he sold, but I was assured it was just the same kiud of land as that about Hawera and Normanby—level, open, aud judging by casual observation, good pastoral, rather than heavy agricultural. That the land inclines to lightness, the nearer Mount Egmont is approached, is generally admitted ; but its capability is still an open question, and to, as some people do, hastily pronounce against it, would, I think, be manifestly unfair. That it is good grazing country is acknowledged, but in what measure it excels, this characteristic can only be determined by practical skilled experiment. Of course the Normanby and Hawera people stand by their land, and maintain its excellence by pointing to the good beef and mutton raised, whilst I certainly saw land there capable of growing grain crops. But as a grazing and wool growing country, it ia at present held in most regard, aud stock from it has, for a long time past, been sent to Auckland via Waitara. This introduces another subject, the keen appreciation of Auckland business men of the growing importance of the Taranaki disrict, and their evident determination to bid high to secure a permanent trailing connection with it. Small steamers now run regularly between the Mauukau and Waitara, and I heard that

some Auckland merchants and Hawera graziers had entered upon a project to build a steamer of special construction to work the Waitara, and with capacity to carry forty saloon passengers and some 100 head of cattle. Auckland has° already obtained a good hold of the Taranaki district, and the people aver that Auckland market wares are to be obtained much cheaper than those of AVellingtoa or AYanganni. Certain it is that AVellingtou must'beatir itself if any portion of the trade is to be retained, and to this end the Government should be urged to push on the railway bom New Plymouth to Patea with all possible speed. In my first article, I promised to say something “more about Patea anou and tills railway question, the magnificent Patea country, and the natural excellence of its small port at the mouth of the Patea river, constitute the occasion. But before availing myself of it, I must revert to Normanby and Hawera. Both are thriving townships, the latter especially, and are well laid out, and contain large and commodious buildings. Hawera has three or four hotels, several stores with other business places, a commodious Post and Lelegraph Office, and not a few pleasing private residences. It has its newspaper, too, a paper, however, that aims at fairly representing Normanbv and the district generally, and in which effort" I think, it must be credited with some success. AVhilst I was there the absorbing topic of conversation was the approaching sale of “ the plains,” and surprise was expressed that so very few persons had visited the district to inspect the land. I heard a good deal about the state of “ the plains,” and the damage done to the surface by the droves of Maori pTgs which infested them, but I was iuoliued to°allow a margin of exaggeration for what I heard. But that the pigs were a seriou i nuisance was evident enough. There was also a great deal of dissatisfaction at the small size of the blocks into which the plains were surveyed, it being averred that no man could possibly exist on fifty acres, and that the good intentions of the Government to promote settlement might be frustrated by this. The upset price was also regarded as too high, and hopes were freely expressed that purchasers would abstain from insane competition, as it would be certain to be attended by disastrous consequences. I can pronounce favorably upon the accommodation of the Hawera Hotels—good beds, good meals, good attendance, and a bath-room are to be had at the Empire, where I sojourned, and also lots of reliable local information from boat Lloyd. The other hotels also bore good names.

From Hawera to tho town of Patea, or, as it is also called, Carlyle, the distance is about fifteen miles. The road is excellent, and passes through grand open, rolling country, covered with the richest pasture, and subdivided into many farms. The fences are nearly all live, and of gorse, and their green and yellow and the almost rank pasture dotted with sheep and cattle, formed a truly taking picture. For miles right up to the mountains this kind of country extended, and constituted a landscape rarely attractive. Of course, the land varies in quality, for whilst much of it was superlatively good, patches of lighter soil were to he seen. Some of it certainly might challenge comparison, and, taking it throughout, its pasturage is not to be equalled by that of any other part of the colony. A paddock of one thousand acres belonging to Mr. John Hare, situated between Patea and Waverly, was brought under my particular notice, and I must say that I never saw anything to equal it elsewhere. Such pasture ! and such cattle browsing it. All about here the land was unquestionably of good general farming character. About midway between Hawera and Carlyle is situated the small settlement of Manutahi, comprising a store (kept by Mr. Foreman), a publicbouso, and one or two other buildings. Carlyle is a pretty little town with an unmistakable air of prosperity. There is a long main street, flanked on each side by substantial buildings, tho various banks being represented, and every kind of business. Hayward’s Albion Hotel is of the bast, and is far above what migltt be expected in such an out of the way district. Carlyle, however, has a great future before it ; the Patea river, upon which it is situated, is quite a large stream with a comparatively open entrance, that has been vastly improved of late by the few thousand pounds spent upon simple harbor works. It is now easily accessible to good sized steamers, the depth of water having been increased to from nine feet at low tide to sixteen feet at high tide. It is, in fact, the port of the district, and when once the railway from New Plymouth is connected with it, it will be the inlet for southern trade, and will open the entire Taranaki district to the enterprise of Wellington merchants. It is here that check may be given to the push of Auckland, but no time must be lost in completing the railway, or Auckland will secure a grip of the Taranaki trade that it will bo next to impossible to relax. It is a subject that demands persistent agitation on the part of Wellington. With good avater carriage to Patea, an improvement upon the existing steam service, and the railway right through from Patea to New Plymouth, there is nothing but apathy to prevent Wellington from successfully competing with Auckland in supplying the district. The port of Patea is situated about a mile from the town. The latter slopes to the river, which is spanned by a substantial bridge. The high road crosses it and leads to Waverly, ten miles further on.

Waverley, another thriving township, but much smaller than Patea, is surrounded by grand country. The hotel accommodation is good, and every description of ware is obtainable at the stores and other business places. The last coacting stage is from Waverley to Waitotara, distance about ton miles, across more broken country than any we had passed over from Hawera, but still first-class for agricultural purposes. A word about the coaching, which, whilst on the whole good, is open to improvement. For - instance, I would suggest that, when the curtains of coaches become too old to be tagged down in the usual way, they should be either replaced by new ones, or repaired, instead of being nailed down, thus converting the interior of the coach into a sort of dismal cell, from which nothing is visible. Also, that the box seats should be placed at the service of strangers, who desire to see the country, instead of preference being given to half-drunken constables, who descend at every opportunity to nip with the driver. This hint, X hope, will not bo thrown away. At Waitotara we are onground comparatively familiar to the public. The Waitotara Block is almost a household word, and its easy acquisition by th© present fortunate holders, is a matter of history. The township, a snug little place, is situated in a deep valley, out of which the railway to Wanganui climbs at quite a steep gradient. And what a country the railway traverses In the some twenty miles to Wanganui. In every direction rich pastures, promising crops and, flocks and herds, truly aland of high fertility and flowing with lailkaud honey. I was much pleased with the excellence of the railway arrangements. Evidently the line is carefully managed, and in this respect reminded me of the well ordered railways of Canterbury and Otago. My stay in the town of Wanganui was brief, but I remained long enough to be quite favorably impressed with it. Judging by its outward appearance the town is thriving, but I was assured the depression of the times pressed heavily upon it. I can recommend the Rutland Hotel, which has just emerged from its ashes as a capital abiding place for travellers, and the enterprising proprietor, Mr. Evans, deserves support for his pluck in so soon rising superior to the dire disaster by fire that lately befel him. The Railway and Commercial hotels are also first-class hostelries. Wanganui is a nice town with many pleasing features. There are scores of beautiful private residences and lovely gardens, horticulture and floriculture being in the ascendant. I visited the Maori College, as it is termed, rather a palatial edifice, situated a mile or two up the river. It is the outcome of the philanthropy of Mr. Ghurton, who has built and endowed the institution for the education of Maori youth. It is under good management, and is perfect in its arrangements—lofty, well ventilated, and liberally furnished apartments, with extensive play ground and garden surrounding it. The Maori inmates numbered some half-a-dozen only—all girls, excepting one. They looked happy and contented, as well they might, with plenty to eat and little to do, except play, for the Principal wisely abstains from submitting them to over study, two hoursadayiuthofchoolroombeiugthe limit. In the immediate vicinity of Wanganui, the land is more or less light, but this characteristic gives place to substantial soil towards Turakina, through which the railway passes, and I may observe continues right through, thence to Foxton, intersecting the townships of Marton, Greatford, ITalcombo, I eliding, and Palmerston. Tho whole of the country for within a mile or so of the sea coast, back to tho ranges, is magnificent land, densely timbered in places, but capable of growing anything almost. Ranghikei is noted for highclass land, and thence to Fdlding the country is simply superb., I staid a night at Bulls, and received Homo attention from Mr. Dalziell, of the Royal Hotel, Ms knowledge of tho district i being extensive. In fact, wherever X went, I found the hotels comfortable abiding places, especially as they are nearly all under ton

o’clock licenses, and thus quiet nights are the rale.

Travellers by rail obtain but a cursory and unsatisfying view of the country, and those who c in afford the cost, and wish to see and understand the beauties and value of the land, would derive much gratification by taking a buggy and driving right through to AA’angauui from Palmerston. I “buggied" it from Bulls to Palmerston, calling at Sarnlon, Folding, and Awahuri, and a delightful drive it proved. It was indirect travelling, for one has to hark back to Awahuri to regain the road to Palmerston ; but every yard of the way is more or less interesting. To all outward appearance, Feikling was the most promising of the places I visited between AA 7 anganui and Palmerston. Turakina is a snug little place, but lies miller the incubus of largo land holding, from which also Bulls suffers, but in° less degree. The approach to Palmerston is through dense forest, but wherever it is cleared the land exposed is rich iu the extreme. The bush is thick, indeed one largo section, of which the timber had just been felled, was literally piled with fallen trunks, branches, and brush. This, when dry enough will be burned off. Touching land clearing, I heard an original theory propounded at AYauganui as to the relative advantages of clearing o the ground altogether, or allowing the larger trunks to remain. It was maintained that these trunks more than compensated for the space they occupied, by pasture from wiud and sun, and that paddocks iu which a reasonable number of logs were permitted to lie produced richer and more abundant pasture than unencumbered ground.

The township of Palmerston is built in a natural clearing, surrounded by bush. It is a flue town, well laid out, and containing all the elements of prosperity. I ara indebted to Mr. Fergusaon for his very kind attention iu driving me about the place, and pointing out what was of special interest. We crossed the Xi’itzherbert bridge that spaus the Manawatu river a mile or so south of the town, and there I saw evidences of the destructive character of the great flood of the early part of this year. What was once the fair homestead of Mr. Warburton was literally effaced, and the site covered with silt aud snags. But what surprised me most of all was the state of the bridge. The approach to the main structure on the south side was much damaged by the same flood. Two of the standards were partly destroyed, and the bridge rendered unsafe thereby. It will be scarcely believed that' the bridge is still iu the same condition ; nothing has been done to secure it, and the next flood will probably sweep away the south end, and do five or six hundred pounds worth of damage. I marvel much at the apathy of the Government in permitting the bridge to remain as it is, or is it the old question of County versus General Government, and who shall do it ? Complaints were rife at Palmerston about the increiscd railway tariff, aud indeed, were common to the whole coast. Bub at Manawatu the special grievance was the rise in the cost of timber carriage; the rise, it was averred, being just about equivalent to the narrow margin of profit enjoyed by mill-owners. Passive resistance to the imposition was advocated by stopping all the mills for a month, and letting the Government feel what that meant iu loss of revenue. I thought the idea worth entertaining, and believe it will be carried put if the Government does not give in.

Thanks to the railway, Wanganui is within a day aud a-half of, Wellington, for the afternoon train from the former place arrives at Foxton at ten p.m., and thus the traveller has a period of sufficient rest before starting by coach from Foxton at six o'clock the next morning. From Palmerston the country gradually degenerates to the mere sandy waste that prevails about Foxton. And I must say that from Foxton to Paikakariki the country ia sandy, with better patches of land at Otaki aud one or two other places. The country, or what I saw of it, ia also more or less poor from Paikakariki to AVellingtou, and the whole of it from Foxton presents a surprising contrast to the grand country to the northward. Still, much of the laud is good for settlement, and taking this into consideration, aud also the importance of connecting Wellington, by easy and sure mode of transit, with the vast stretch of rich country from Foxton northward, warrants the straining of every nerve to bring about the construction of the long-talked of railway to Foxton. And yet the journey by coach is far from unpleasant in fine weather. Mr. James Macara’s coaching arrrngements are excellent. There is no stint of good horse flesh, aud wherever the road is fairly even, from nine to ten miles an hour is kept up. It takes about eleven aud a quarter hours to complete the journey, including a stoppage at Otaki, at half-past nine, for breakfast, and another at half-past two, at Pabautanui, for dinner. Shaw, the well-known AVairarapa whip, tooled the team on the day I travelled, aud a skilful whip and good companion be proved.

Otakiis a small settlement —half European, half Maori. The races were as nearly amalgamated there as they could be, but the result now is that they are being sundered by force of circumstances—the Maori is dropping behind in the race. The night prior to our arrival was a festive time for Otaki, the white residents celebrating tho occasion of the opening of a new schoolhouse, with a ball. Before this the soirees ' dansante of Otaki were mixed affairs, white skins and brown skins mingled promiscuously, and hopped and jumped and perspired freely together. But there, as elsewhere, the line had to be drawn somewhere, and as one of the white skins, a female one, by the way, remarked to me, “ Oh, they (the brown skins) came it a little too strong ; you never could depend upon the men as partners, they would go away and leave you at any moment ; and as for the women —well, when in a set of quadrilles they had a habit of sitting down and spitting around.” And bo the committee of the latest ball decided to exclude Maoris, did so* much to their disgust, and tho affair, I was assured, was most successful. Otaki is a rising and pretty place, and, when the Lind about it is released from Maori trammels, will become a township of no mean importance. The most interesting part of the journey from Foxton is from Paikakariki on the beach across the high range to Wellington. The coach climbs the range along a winding road cat out of the face of it, and which has been rendered very much more safe than it was before, since the members of the Railway Commission travelled it the other day. It has been fenced at the more dangerous places. All up the road, and from the summit of the range, a magnificent view seaward is obtained, and across the Strait; the Middle Island is distinctly visible. Picturesque and beautiful also is the country down the valley to Pahautanui and round the head of Porirua harbor, and up a range again, beyond which is the little town of Johnsonville ; and thence down the long and winding gorge of Ngahauranga. Some good patches of land are met with, and cultivation is progressing apace. The drive from Wellington to Pahautanui xu bright weather is delightful, and pleasure seekers may make a note of this. The distance is about 22 miles.