MY LADY’S MIRROR.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1847, 31 July 1907, Page 64

MY LADY’S MIRROR.

FASHION NOTES HATS ANITFROCKS. Should on© dress to suit one's eyes? .We frequently study our hair and our complexion, but our eyes ? It seems a peculiar question, and yet it is propounded by a considerable authority in such matters. It is contended that the face is the most striking feature of the body, and, of course, the eyes are the most striking feature of the face. No matter whether one has a high complexion, the eyes remain the colour centre. On the other hand, if one has no colour at all the eyes monopolise everything. Therefore, argues my authority, if one's dress should harmonise with any colour of face or hair at all, it should be with the colour of the eyes. Pocr one thing—this sounds like a veiled sarcasm—one cannot dye one's eyes, whatever may be said of one’s hair, and, of course, though my lady paint an inch thick, she is restrained when it comes to the eyes, which must be as nature made them. Well, if one were to limit one’s dress shades to the colours which have been given to these very useful possessions, the list would be complete in black, brown, grey and blue, with a leaning sometimes to violet. No one ever exceeded these colours, though it is sometimes said that certain people have green eyes—generally, by the way, the accusation of the monster, so afflicted himself. As for red eyes, they are limited to those who -make them so by weeping, and then it would be more correct to say red eyelids. Perhaps when all is said and done the colour of the eyes is not of any great importance as bearing on dress shades, due to the very little space the eyes occupy, and the still less space occupied by the sec- - tion or part which betrays the colour.

It is said that the low cut bodice is likely to receive the cold frown of disapproval in the highest places before long. The extremely decollete gown is not specially favoured of women when all is said and done, but fashion is fashion, and this accounts for it entirely. The whole thing comes down to use from the rule of the British Court, which has compelled the wearing of the decollete at far more functions than drawing rooms and dinners. A good deal of it was due to the prevailing mode when Queen Victoria came to the throne. It was arbitrary then right through society, and it was impossible, perhaps, to set any other style above it. The present Queen follows the rule ©he inherited, but from all accounts the Princess of Wales is making a great effort bo get away from the fashion, except as associated with great functions at court. Thus at the theatre a little while ago she appeared in a high cut gown, and the fact was noted as a great departure. From it is deduced the belief that the leaders of fashion will follow suit, in which case it will touch us here. At a ball, the decollete bodice may continue to hold the old sway, but it is quite possible that some day or other it will be banned for tbe theatre and the dinner table.

The sleeve of the moment is almost invariably of three-quarter length. It is full to the elbow, though not very high oft the shoulder, and takes in at the elbow depth in such a manner as tajste directs. it continues as a pretty free sleeve for a few inches, to,\ in fact, half-way between the elbow and the wrist. It is an extremely pretty winter sleeve, and is much helped by the extended shoulder, which effect hi secured as often as not with a frame or shield piece. The sleeve, as we, know, is a very marked feature of good dra«sand more tixan most things makes OP the drees. A too /Tort nleovc jus dimply upj-ers.aojrabre, and _ that is a/-; funch .tie may he written in its comhunjiht a too Jong sleeve is an abominaiion, &<s, if it hangs over the I defy the wearer to appear smartly taken, with the sleeve, which is the finishing note in pretty well all bodices, and essentially so of coats.

A quaint but decidedly Kmart hat of French design appears herewith. It i/s a felt of cloth like smooth news, fawn or grey, the brim being hard and the double crown fairly pliable. The sur-

round is of folded tartan ribbon with a good dash -of warm colour, and you will note that a pretty use of this occurs on the left side. Here, too, the ribbon takes a flat •“bunch,” though the view is hidden, and through this are two bronze cock's fc-athens with a crimson quill. It is a dressy winter hat ot marked refinement and rtnnot help bur please tasteful dressers.

It is definitely announced that next season will see an extraordinary use of feathers and flowers in millinery. Of course we have an advantage in these matters, as the fashion -plates coming to hand jvst now are of those styles which will be the thing here after winter lia?.:- shed its greatcoat. The flowers, where they appear in profusion at all, fairly smother the hat; but they don't call for the same attention as the feathers, which reach to a point in display never known before. In fact, fashionable French and English women are wearing hats the feathers of which dance down to vheir shoulders, while there are extra extreme cases, where a plume is brought down over the hair and around the shoulders in front, for all the world like a turban. It is clear enough that fashion is preparing for a great feather carnival, though we here won’t be altogether led by the dictatress if what she decrees should be deemed to be outlandish.

Black is nearly always fashionable, and the present day is no exception. Black for one thing always looks so well; and then there, are ages and vocations that call for its perpetual occupancy of a supremo place. But it always wauls to bo real black, which is another way of Haying it wants to ho good black every time. Ah I think you will agree with me, no oilier colour stands deterioration in shade or lustre |v.c/l. A faded blue is still a blue of "some kind, and even a faded brown j>; not amiss. As for faded grey, it is sometimes inipotswiblo to tell that it is faded, but a faded black! Well, the instant that a black does fade it ceases to justify its name. It becomes dusty look \uy„ dingy, mean, and paltry. It matte,v, rot how good the stuff; if it goes off in shade it euggeets inferiority and ehahhincss. Tliis i« because there nrc piiases in other colours, but none in black whatever. It is just the kuiiio «h with while, the name must be represented by the absolute thing, or the article. Woks had.

An enduring style ie the long, closelyfitting coats that come under the heading of either rod in goto or paletot. They arc distinctive as a rule because of I heir unbroken line's, which if correctly made are at-lays so graceful on a reasonably good figure. The preferred ukklo where these long coats are concerned is towards contrasts in materials, and this is a great advantage, as the coats admit of so much general utility. That is to say, they may be worn with more than onft gown or skirt, as a suit coat of colour often looks out of place when worn with anything but a matching skirt. Still, it is not everyone who can do justice to a long coat, whether Hie figure is good or not. Thus we turn to the short coat and the coatee as the more than pleasing contrast, for this, if it lacks the gracefulness of the long coat, .makes up for it in respect of sm artpess.

“A late nolo” i® what may be written of the accompanying model, and of course it is a French design, and by a noted hand. It is one material throughout, though if desired the blouse section may be in contrast and of lighter effect,. The charming note about it is Ik •;»)'«» coat, and this is embroidered around rim lines, though such decoration is not really essential. A large button is employed at the neck, a similar one appears on tlie waist, and similar again on eith' r ; hip and either shoulder, the latte ( Tug raised on a shield. The skin ..<> it. a illustrates itself with its panels "of 'fan pleats from the knee depth, the lines of the garment being stitched to ©how, and those of the pleat® stitched down for a third distance. The slu-Av of this stylish costume is for

preference a rich nut brown, the embroidery being, in black or the same.

The absence, frequently, if not always, of pockets, still cause© tlxe handbag and chain purse to flourish. As a .matter or truth, even if one has a pocket, the styles are such that it is seldom capable of holding much without causing distortion. Thus the use of the chatelaine and finger purse, and both are seen in very elegant styles. The most fashionable leather is velvet crocodile in greys, and greens, of a soft type. This leather is quite velvety in appearance, aiid the purses are suspended by chains of oxi-

diflcd silver or platinum, with a hook for the waist, or a ring .tor the finger. In happy contrast are sinning purses of crushed 'morocco, in exquisite shades, and a novelty is a flat sovereign purse in Russia, with stud fasteners marked outside by button heads on leather a shade deeper than the purse. This dainty article may measure about three o four inches in length and from one and a half to two inches m breadth Ten folded. In this way it may be placed in the pocket it this is desired.

Close observers in Fans note a departure in parasols. These—the next season for us. by the way-have to match the costume, or at least to sugU an affinity. Thus .a striped costume necessitates a striped sunshade, and a dotted frock a sunhade m the same style The best dressers are so loval to the innovation as to have their parasols made with the costume the frame alone being purchased and the order being for a covering strictly en

suite. Thus even the frills are repeated, and if ribbon appears on the frock to any extent, such is given on the sunshade in loops or bows as the designer's fancy suggests. All the new parasols—next season for us, I repeat will be small. In fact my in formation is that the time is approaching when we shall have a revival of the old ‘‘Marquise," as it used to be called in the days of our grandmothers. You may see these tiny sunshades in some of the Victorian prints, and instinctively they suggest the bonnet and the crinoline. It is said that the automobile is responsible for the small sunshade, the other kind bein" found inconvenient by the votaries of that pastime. At the same time the handles are to be of extraordinary beautv, no extravagance m this way being considered too great by the fashionable dresser.

There is nothing about this hat save its simplicity and prettiness. Of a hard felt—or it may be a coarse straw—everything is thrown into the "ribboning,'” which, of coarse but rich silk, overlaid with velvet, is looped as freely as possible. The view shown is the popular one, but the loops go around th®

back of the hat in a very taking fashion* ending at the opposite side. It is possible to increase the general effect by the inclusion of a curving plume, and in fact the model I saw had this for its final enrichment. But the hat is nicer as shown, its value lying in its chief virtue—simplicity. ,