LATEST HOME FASHIONS

New Zealand Mail, 29 January 1902, Page 20

LATEST HOME FASHIONS

LONDON, November 24. Lace continues to be one of the chief decorations. What evening gown is free from lace berthe, or insertions or sleeves, Few rich capes or coats are without lace frills and jabots. The best of it is that all sorts of lace can bo used, real or imitation, from the most delicate Brussels and Tambour to the heavier rich laces like Venetian point and Russian guipure. Some of the laces are a trifle too coarse, but the lace that I specially abhor is the cheaper models in so-called Renaissance guipure, made out of the commonest lace braid held together with a few rough stitches, homo of the designs are quite handsome, but the 'floppy” limpness of such collars arc an eyesore.

I hcai fiom Paris that the passementerie manufacturers are up in arms at the long-continued taste for embroideries. They have been forced to take up embroideries, but they are, it appears less profitable, as they need cleverer designers and cleverer “hands.” I can assure these-gentlemen that passementerie will never come in again while transparent fabrics are the favourites for evening wear. Imagine a heavy jet passementerie on a black net- gown, or a lumpy golden galon on a white chiffon skirt! They would draw the flimsy fabric all out of place, instead of merely beautifying like the dainty filigree embroideries which edge the skirt, and run up it in delicate spirals.

A combination of richly embroidered satin, with much tucked and ruffled chiffon, is a feature of the smartest evening gowns. The satin is white or some very pale tint, embroidered with silver or gold sequins and buttons to match, the chiffon matching the satin. In some gowns embroidered panne replaces the satin. In some of the best shops one can get the embroidered bodice piece, also the skirts (or panels for skirts).

Gowns.—Sicilienne is well to the] fore, especially in beige tints and grays. j It is a good tough material, and jet; falls in soft graceful folds suitable for day or dinner wear. Such fabrics are l generally made up with a slight train, and often with strappings. The neutral tint, relieved by a vest of light-coloured silk or white satin lacings of ribbon to the front of gowns, is decidedly the] mode, and with such dresses the highest stocks possible are worn. A clever tradesman has brought out a stiff buckram stock as a lining to the collar bands ' of dresses. The corselet skirt remains the fashion, and looks very well under a bolero. There is a great feeling for j white, especially white serge worked in' gold made with a Louis XIV. coat.

Madame la Mode shows a strong disposition to use every description of rich material, principally in tones of cream, pale rose, and silver, for the creation of the coming season’s evening gowns. The latest modes are cut in princess shape, and the trimmings take the form of charming floral adornments of garnitures of old lace. Evening dress skirts are made long, but instead of the fish-tail train, the latter spreads out in a circular shape. Diaphanous materials are also used, and many of these are marvels of wondrous work, with their raised flowers in tinted silk muslin, veined with jewels and silver leaves; or embroidered with sprays of flowers, formed of silk and velvet. Many evening bodices are merely held in position over the shoulders with lattice straps of velvet, from which a lace frill falls gracefully over the shoulders. Some charming evening bodices have been recently seen with floral garniture round the low bodice. One gown of white crepe-de-chine shows a berthe of flowers, formed of yellow and black marguerites, finished with a dainty touch of narrow black velvet placed in-the form of a rosette, with hanging loops on left ride of bodice. With small pale pink and black roses another pretty change is brought about.

\\oollen and silk embroideries are being used for the adornment of frieze costumes. One gown, in a pretty tone of brown frieze, has a heading to the shaped flounce of embroidery, which takes the form of autumn leaves, and their berries worked in wools representing the natural colouring of the varying tints of the beech and other trees and plants, the rich, deep, lovely tones of which are only to be seen in the autumn. Cream serge and frieze, also pale tints, are much in demand for walking costumes. Many of these are adorned with fur or applications of black velvet. Black velvet boleros are much favoured for smart visiting costumes. Some are trimmed with buttons of cut steel, set in twos down the fronts, and they arc fashioned with sleeves belled at the wrist. The model seen had a collar of brown fur. A charming hat of black velvet accompanied this coat. It was smartly turned away from the face to show a small spray of green velvet leaves upon the brim. Black pompoms tipped with green and silver gave the daintiest of finishing touches.

, By-the-bye, some of the season’s 1 millinery is very quaint, especially the pancake shapes. One flat hat is of brown beaver with two narrow rolls of peacock’s feathers simply placed round the i joiver part of crown and the brim. It had a black lace veil attached to the' brim all the way round, and it was caught together at the back in a loose! knot. Plumage toques are fashionable. I Some of these are finished at the back! with flat velvet bows harmonising in 1 tone with the feathers. Fur toques are

again popular. One of them is draped with a soft band of chiffon, finished Avith a' large boAV, wdiieh forms the crown. In the centre of boAV is a handsome buckle.

Some IoA-ely evening blouses, suitable for dinner or theatre wear, are shoAvn made of laco in a pale ecru tint. The iace is pouched over a deep belt, and the sleeves are of the Turkish order and the blouses are accompanied with fichu collars knotted with long ends. They are Avorn over coloured silk slips. They are very simple and dainty, just suitable for girlish Avear.

The decree has gone forth that for day wear the hair is to be Avorn low, but for evening dress it may be worn high or loav, just as each best suits the face. Some girls Avear their hair loav, throAA’ing the front right off the forehead ove” a pad, and on each side they arrange a feAV soft, stray curls. All kinds of fancy pins, combs, and floivers are Avorn in the hair. Large black A-elvet boAvs are also seen at the nape of neck, Avith a tAvist of hair sliOAving beneath.

Evening wraps are composed of finest satin or faced cloth, lined Avith silk of a contrasting hue. All wraps are of an elaborate, costly order, but there is no reason Avhy smart ones should not be made at little cost. A pastel grey-blue cloth is bordered Avith velvet of the same tint, and embroideries of silk and chenille. It is of the neAv shape, and is draAvn into the waist at the back with a wide belt of folded velvet. It has a Cavalier cape and full bishop sleeves. It is prettily lined Avith pale salmonpink.

The newest ruffles for the throat are made of velvet, edged with chenille, s<t off Avith frills of chiffon. Muffs are made to match the ruffles.