ABOUT SOUP

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1514, 7 March 1901, Page 24

ABOUT SOUP

What a pit}’ we do not, as a nation, appreciate the merits of soup. If our working classes, in particular, could be made to realise its value, its nutritive qualities, savouriness, and economy, a revolution in tlieir culinary method's would • be accomplished. Though no menu can be complete on which "'Potage” does not figure, it is often the least satisfactory item offered to the diner. Indeed" the Scottish people, thanks probably to long association with France, are the only inhabit ants of the British Isles who grasp its possibilities. The average English or Irish cook Jls at her worst in this department. While fault of insipidity or excess of flavouring are common to both, we have often noticed that the English ccoic wields the pepper-box with all the freedom of the cook in “'Alice in Wonderland.” apparently thinking that pepper, like charity, covers a multitude of (culinary) .failings ; and the Irish relies on a superabundance of salt to hide the weakness of the concoction she offers. Knowledge, and above all, experience, are more necessary in making soup than in preparing almost any other dish, so that if, as a beginning, the soup be good the courses that follow may be expected to prove appetising. Excellence depends on two tilings : the quality of the stock, which is the foundation of meat soups, and the thickening and flavouring. It is hardly ever necessary in an ordinary household to buy meat for soup. If there are only two in family, the bones and trimmings of their joints should be sufficient to make soup for two, while if there are ten the same rule obviously holds good. It is only the inexperienced who order shin of beef and knuckle of veal to make thick soups for every day consumption, such as we treat of here.

Odds and ends may be utilised to advantage, such as beef and chicken bones, remnants of game; head and neck of rabbit which are useless for any other purpose ; ham bone, ancl even bacon-rind, if it has first been scalded These can all he turned into the stockpot, covered with cold water and allowed to simmer for an indefinite number of hours. There is no fear of using too much water, as it evaporates m the

process, and the stock may be boiled down to any degree of strength, but long cooking i.s essential. The bones should be dry, brittle, and full of holes at the end of the time. It is only when they present this appearance that they have been utilised to the utmost, and that all the good has been extracted from them. Vegetables are then added to the stock;' to each quart allow a oarrot, an onion, a slice of turnip, a stick of celery, eight peppercorns and two cloves, besides a bunch of savoury herbs consisting of thyme, marjoram, parsley, and bay leaf. These must first he sliced and fried till brown in beer dripping. Boii till the vegetables are tender, then strain the stock and set it aside till cold, when the crust of fat- which will have formed on top may be removed, and the liquor left ready to be laickenecl and made into so^ii