LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1321, 24 June 1897, Page 30

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

{From Our London Correspondent .)

Begent Street, April 17.

One of the favourite colours adopted for tho latest shapes is the new <k wine " tint, s'3 full of warmth and depth, and so infinitely more ladylike than the very startling scarlet for which ladies of a florid complexion appear to have conceived an incomprehensive fancy. My model, with its loosely draped "Beret 7 ' crown—a headpiece that continues to hold its own

in spite of the rival 4k Welsh " and t 4 Jampot" structures—offers a very fair idea of what is being principally affected by those who fully appreciate the art of excellent dressing. This shape is modelled in winecoloured moire* plush—a material thac the Parisiennes have christened panne —and ia raised rather higher on the left-hand side than elsewhere. The brim is bound, with very faint blue velvet, the direct contrast of the two shades being most effective. A soft silk drapery knotted with a certain ease on either side of the crown proves once more that the rage for checks and plaids, ei<-her characteristic, of a bona-fide Scotch clan, or purely fanciful, shows no signs whatever of abating. But then this style of design is full of possibilities, and a milliner at the end of her tether can always b,av& *eeourse to a plaid trimming! and feel sure ihat she can't be far wrong in, choosing a pattern that need only repeat, a 3 one of ifca many shades, the colour of tb,o. actual shape. The arrangement oo tho little hat has a light biu»" ground boldly checked with vivid emerald green, orange and w claret," this last shade being " of course in accordance w;ih. the foundation volvofc. Much cream lace is being pressou infca service for caraleaß folds-pinned hsvya -and there with glitteiing jewelled pins to those

neat little riding-shaped black beavers, while the actual cache-peigne of flowers has been already suppressed to some extent and replaced by a crescent of flowers stitched round the back of the crown. As the hat in this column exemplifies, coques' feathers continue to be substituted for ostrich plume? in the fashioning of simple millinery, metal or paste buckles remaining; as popular as ever. It requires the ehib of an exp3rienced hand to model the new-shaped blousecoats, that certainly impart a deliciously girlish air to the figure when well cut, but look deplorable if the modeller happens to be merely a novice. A charming design of the kind i? fashioned in peacock blue vicuna cloth, with a short basque, and the corsage part bagging slightly all round over a deep blask satin ceinture which securely draws in the waist. A3trakan revers, th?it are turned back bo exhibit a full cream laco vest, complete this fancy jacket-model. Rather than indulge in ambitious garments that are certain to prove failures unless a high price is paid, isn't it far preferable to select something just a 3 chic though much simpler. Fov instance, here we have a first rate winter coat in biscuit-coloured faced cloth, perfectly unaffected. The paetot is lined

with bright cerife facing satin, which looks nice when the wearer casta her outdoor raiment at a swell matinee or "five o'clock." Black Persian lamb—a fur that is much softer and more becoming than ordinary aatrakan —is carried aa a narrow hemming down the front &ad round the compact basque, and is introduced by way of cuff 3 and again in the capacity of a picturesque oollar and revers. Some good black military braid is twisted into four frogs that form quite a fascinating finish to this seasonable little jacket.

The» rumour of long sleeves for evening I wear has become •msj, faii accompli, and ' many good dressera hare donned ther^,' lately, In Fig. 3 I giva an exceedir ff | ' pretty evening gown iT&roducing this departure. It iB of pale satin trimmed with pale yellow c^^g , on an( j ropes of violets. These sl< j6VeB are of wrinfeied chiffon, caught afc intervals on the inner side by small diamond studs, and are headed on, either shoulder by yellow satin butterfly bows. Long sleeve* for evening wear with low { necks are very incongruous,, though they be of thg roust diaphanous material ; still, they are to be preferred to a display of elbow which es the unhsppy possession of some otherwise fai? ladies in cold weather. Roselle.